Oppinions on a few mods
#1
Modding newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Down south where the food is good.
Age: 42
Posts: 665
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oppinions on a few mods
I'm about to settle an insurance claim and will end up with about 3 grand. I'm strongly considering a few items for my TSX. I was thinking about a sway bar, hondata reflash, new rotors and pads, and maybe a set of coilovers (if they're not too expensive).
I'm wondering if you all could make a suggestion or two as to which would work best for my needs since I'm pretty new to modding and you probably know more about it than me. I use the car as a daily driver for work which is about 75 miles one way so I spend alot of time in the car and don't want a horribly stiff ride, but would love a little less body roll. I don't track the car but I do enjoy a little spirited driving on occation so I think my warped rotors are due for an upgrade. Any suggestions?
I'm wondering if you all could make a suggestion or two as to which would work best for my needs since I'm pretty new to modding and you probably know more about it than me. I use the car as a daily driver for work which is about 75 miles one way so I spend alot of time in the car and don't want a horribly stiff ride, but would love a little less body roll. I don't track the car but I do enjoy a little spirited driving on occation so I think my warped rotors are due for an upgrade. Any suggestions?
#2
Unregistered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: California
Posts: 1,138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Coilovers+camber kit ~ $1000 + installation.
Header is a great thing to have. Full exhaust will annoy u on long trips. Brake pads would sure help. intake/icebox is somewhere up there on the list. I cant comment on pulleys or hi flow cat for I dont have them. Rear sway bar that I have is great. I abandoned idea of lowering after I got this thing. Of course, if its show that u r looking for, u may lower the car, but sway bar alone greatly improves handling.
What year is your car ? tranny type ?
Correct me if I am wrong on anything, please.
Header is a great thing to have. Full exhaust will annoy u on long trips. Brake pads would sure help. intake/icebox is somewhere up there on the list. I cant comment on pulleys or hi flow cat for I dont have them. Rear sway bar that I have is great. I abandoned idea of lowering after I got this thing. Of course, if its show that u r looking for, u may lower the car, but sway bar alone greatly improves handling.
What year is your car ? tranny type ?
Correct me if I am wrong on anything, please.
#3
Modding newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Down south where the food is good.
Age: 42
Posts: 665
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
'06 manual tranny. I wouldn't be caught dead in an auto.
Aren't coilovers adn the camber kit something I could install myself? I didn't think they were that hard. Also, do they make much of a difference in ride quality? As much as the sway bar?
I'm more interested in improving the handling at the moment than anything else, so I hadn't thought about altering intake or the pulleys. Aren't those just for hp gains? I considered the hondata reflash because I heard it helped even out the hp/tq curves alot and that it dropped v-tec enguagement to a reasonable point. Even though I don't hit v-tec much, it would be nice to stay in v-tec through a shift when I do use it. Since it's only about 500 bucks, it's not a major investment.
While I'm thinking of it, does the hondata reflash drop your mileage, or just even things out? I'd hate to lose a few mpg since driving 150 miles a day adds up quick. I'm already lower than I'm used to since I went to the TSX from a Civic. I averaged about 34 in the Civic, and I'm around 30 in the TSX, so that's about another tank of gas every month.
I've noticed that the car makes more noise than I'd like. Anyone use dynamat, or similar, and notice much of a difference? It would be nice to cut down on the noise for that long drive.
Aren't coilovers adn the camber kit something I could install myself? I didn't think they were that hard. Also, do they make much of a difference in ride quality? As much as the sway bar?
I'm more interested in improving the handling at the moment than anything else, so I hadn't thought about altering intake or the pulleys. Aren't those just for hp gains? I considered the hondata reflash because I heard it helped even out the hp/tq curves alot and that it dropped v-tec enguagement to a reasonable point. Even though I don't hit v-tec much, it would be nice to stay in v-tec through a shift when I do use it. Since it's only about 500 bucks, it's not a major investment.
While I'm thinking of it, does the hondata reflash drop your mileage, or just even things out? I'd hate to lose a few mpg since driving 150 miles a day adds up quick. I'm already lower than I'm used to since I went to the TSX from a Civic. I averaged about 34 in the Civic, and I'm around 30 in the TSX, so that's about another tank of gas every month.
I've noticed that the car makes more noise than I'd like. Anyone use dynamat, or similar, and notice much of a difference? It would be nice to cut down on the noise for that long drive.
#4
Unregistered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: California
Posts: 1,138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
haha, I also went from a Civic and first TSX seemed thirsty. Reflash doesnt affect neither MPG nor reliability, but it is highly recommended to have a header and intake with reflash. 06 MT is the very best combination out there, no kidding. Catalityc converter needs no upgrading on 06 model, neither does intake manifold or throttle body. Cams are also improved compared to mine. Pulleys, header, intake give u a couple of MPG. Pulleys leave more power for the car by underdriving generator, power steering etc.
#5
Modding newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Down south where the food is good.
Age: 42
Posts: 665
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Would a stiff sway bar and a lighter coilover be the best way to get less body roll but still be a very comfortable ride?
#6
I Quit
that depends on the coil over kit. Everyone has a different tolerance level for ride quality. A rear sway bar wont affect your ride quality that much, you may notice a little stiffer feeling on bumpy roads but that's about it. You will get better turn in response and some added over steer, there are alot of threads in the suspension area about the rear sway bars and there are 3 that I know of on the market, CT Engineering 22mm, Progress 22mm, and neuspeed 19mm.
Asking about coil overs and here's what you'll most likely see posted up:
Tein CS - soft and comprible to stock with ride height adjustment EDFC compatible.
Tein Flex - stiff, compatible with EDFC, multiple adjustments, best Tein set up
Tein SS - Stiffer than CS but softer than Flex, nice ride quality, not EDFC compatible (although it's been done), still retains dampening force adjustments.
Tein Basic - Entry level Tein, softer than SS no EDFC, no dampening force adjustments.
Buddy Club N - stiffer than basics, maybe stiffer than CS, you can SLAM them.
KSport - Stiff, adjustable dampening force, you can SLAM them, good bang for the buck, I have them and so does godfather on here with NO issues yet people swear to only buy Tein or Buddy Club in a pinch (brand jockeying IMHO).
Skunk 2 - Very stiff!
Hope that helps.
Asking about coil overs and here's what you'll most likely see posted up:
Tein CS - soft and comprible to stock with ride height adjustment EDFC compatible.
Tein Flex - stiff, compatible with EDFC, multiple adjustments, best Tein set up
Tein SS - Stiffer than CS but softer than Flex, nice ride quality, not EDFC compatible (although it's been done), still retains dampening force adjustments.
Tein Basic - Entry level Tein, softer than SS no EDFC, no dampening force adjustments.
Buddy Club N - stiffer than basics, maybe stiffer than CS, you can SLAM them.
KSport - Stiff, adjustable dampening force, you can SLAM them, good bang for the buck, I have them and so does godfather on here with NO issues yet people swear to only buy Tein or Buddy Club in a pinch (brand jockeying IMHO).
Skunk 2 - Very stiff!
Hope that helps.
Trending Topics
#9
Modding newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Down south where the food is good.
Age: 42
Posts: 665
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yea, I'm leaning that way. The coilovers seem a little expensive for now. I'll probably upgrade to them when my current suspension starts giving me problems, if it does.
#10
Unregistered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: California
Posts: 1,138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Agree](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/agree.gif)
Last edited by valeratj; 02-02-2009 at 10:19 PM.
#12
#13
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
I still think you should lower it at least somewhat if you want to reduce body roll. If you have under 50k miles you should be fine to reuse the factory shocks as long as you don't get a really aggressive spring. If it were me I would do:
Eibach Pro Kit - $235
TOKICO HP Shocks (if you have more than 50K) - $300
Progress RSB 22mm adjustable - $140
Ingalls Rear Camber Kit (you will need this) - $150
ROTORA/STOPTECH Slotted Rotors/Pads $450-$500
Hondata Reflash - $595
CT Icebox $165
DC Header - $325
If you don't do the shocks you will be around $2k. PM me if you need any of these parts.
Eibach Pro Kit - $235
TOKICO HP Shocks (if you have more than 50K) - $300
Progress RSB 22mm adjustable - $140
Ingalls Rear Camber Kit (you will need this) - $150
ROTORA/STOPTECH Slotted Rotors/Pads $450-$500
Hondata Reflash - $595
CT Icebox $165
DC Header - $325
If you don't do the shocks you will be around $2k. PM me if you need any of these parts.
#14
Modding newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Down south where the food is good.
Age: 42
Posts: 665
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Anyone have any experience with dynamat, or something similar? I've heard it works wonderfully, but would love to hear from someone with a TSX who has it. Where would it make the most difference, and about what would getting it installed cost...
#15
Time to Climb
I still think you should lower it at least somewhat if you want to reduce body roll. If you have under 50k miles you should be fine to reuse the factory shocks as long as you don't get a really aggressive spring. If it were me I would do:
Eibach Pro Kit - $235
TOKICO HP Shocks (if you have more than 50K) - $300
Progress RSB 22mm adjustable - $140
Ingalls Rear Camber Kit (you will need this) - $150
ROTORA/STOPTECH Slotted Rotors/Pads $450-$500
Hondata Reflash - $595
CT Icebox $165
DC Header - $325
If you don't do the shocks you will be around $2k. PM me if you need any of these parts.
Eibach Pro Kit - $235
TOKICO HP Shocks (if you have more than 50K) - $300
Progress RSB 22mm adjustable - $140
Ingalls Rear Camber Kit (you will need this) - $150
ROTORA/STOPTECH Slotted Rotors/Pads $450-$500
Hondata Reflash - $595
CT Icebox $165
DC Header - $325
If you don't do the shocks you will be around $2k. PM me if you need any of these parts.
#16
Unregistered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: California
Posts: 1,138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I still think you should lower it at least somewhat if you want to reduce body roll. If you have under 50k miles you should be fine to reuse the factory shocks as long as you don't get a really aggressive spring. If it were me I would do:
Eibach Pro Kit - $235
TOKICO HP Shocks (if you have more than 50K) - $300
Progress RSB 22mm adjustable - $140
Ingalls Rear Camber Kit (you will need this) - $150
ROTORA/STOPTECH Slotted Rotors/Pads $450-$500
Hondata Reflash - $595
CT Icebox $165
DC Header - $325
If you don't do the shocks you will be around $2k. PM me if you need any of these parts.
Eibach Pro Kit - $235
TOKICO HP Shocks (if you have more than 50K) - $300
Progress RSB 22mm adjustable - $140
Ingalls Rear Camber Kit (you will need this) - $150
ROTORA/STOPTECH Slotted Rotors/Pads $450-$500
Hondata Reflash - $595
CT Icebox $165
DC Header - $325
If you don't do the shocks you will be around $2k. PM me if you need any of these parts.
Is the Eibach kit adjustable? if not, whats the drop? Sorry for an offtopic question
#17
I Quit
Eibach Pro Kit - $235
TOKICO HP Shocks - $300
Process of elimination would lead me to believe that this is a spring and shock combo no ride height adjustment and I do not believe that Tokico offers dampening adjustment either
You could do Eibach Pro Kit springs + Koni Yellows which allow you to drop the spring perch up to 20 mm or .8 inches and adjustable dampening.
TOKICO HP Shocks - $300
Process of elimination would lead me to believe that this is a spring and shock combo no ride height adjustment and I do not believe that Tokico offers dampening adjustment either
You could do Eibach Pro Kit springs + Koni Yellows which allow you to drop the spring perch up to 20 mm or .8 inches and adjustable dampening.
#21
Modding newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Down south where the food is good.
Age: 42
Posts: 665
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I still think you should lower it at least somewhat if you want to reduce body roll. If you have under 50k miles you should be fine to reuse the factory shocks as long as you don't get a really aggressive spring. If it were me I would do:
Eibach Pro Kit - $235
TOKICO HP Shocks (if you have more than 50K) - $300
Progress RSB 22mm adjustable - $140
Ingalls Rear Camber Kit (you will need this) - $150
ROTORA/STOPTECH Slotted Rotors/Pads $450-$500
Hondata Reflash - $595
CT Icebox $165
DC Header - $325
If you don't do the shocks you will be around $2k. PM me if you need any of these parts.
Eibach Pro Kit - $235
TOKICO HP Shocks (if you have more than 50K) - $300
Progress RSB 22mm adjustable - $140
Ingalls Rear Camber Kit (you will need this) - $150
ROTORA/STOPTECH Slotted Rotors/Pads $450-$500
Hondata Reflash - $595
CT Icebox $165
DC Header - $325
If you don't do the shocks you will be around $2k. PM me if you need any of these parts.
Do you have another suggestion s001y? If a few more dolars will get me alot more, I may go with your suggestion. The $3000 isn't a strict limit, just a guideline so people don't suggest something that's $10,000 and way out of my range.
#22
Unregistered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: California
Posts: 1,138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
^ I may have a couple. 1- get a custom exhaust made by a shop, thats much cheaper. 2- save money on CAI and use K&N drop-in filter or icebox. Those wont get u the best gains, but u get what u may for....
#23
Modding newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Down south where the food is good.
Age: 42
Posts: 665
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am strongly considering the icebox. I hadn't thought about a custom exhaust though. What benifit does it have over the DC header, other than cost? Would it produce a true dual exhaust instead of our faked dual, or is it just the header that would be altered?
#24
Drifting
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Age: 46
Posts: 2,548
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
Don't listen to him. Get the header and leave the exhaust alone. No shop is going to be able to make a custom header worth a crap without it being insanely expensive. The stock exhaust flows plenty well for what you want to do. The only reason to change it would be for looks.
The icebox is a good investment though.
The icebox is a good investment though.
#27
User with Skills
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SoCal
Age: 38
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i would say skip the spring and shock combo and go straight for the coilover. The things that Excelerate recommended brought you out to $2,410.
Subtract 535 for the shock/spring combo, you are at $1,875. Get any of those coilovers that we recommended (probably Buddy Club N+ ($1000), Tein Basics ($850), or Tanabe S-OC II ($750) and you are still under your 3,000 dollar budget.
Subtract 535 for the shock/spring combo, you are at $1,875. Get any of those coilovers that we recommended (probably Buddy Club N+ ($1000), Tein Basics ($850), or Tanabe S-OC II ($750) and you are still under your 3,000 dollar budget.
#28
Unregistered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: California
Posts: 1,138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We all know that exhaust gives no gains, but many like to have aftermarket systems bc of the sound. In the shop that I go to, they charge $100 for labor and piping + muffler. Even if I was to get a carbon fiber muffler, it would cost $200 and u can hardly get anything good for TSX for $200... except topspeed header
#29
User with Skills
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SoCal
Age: 38
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
judging from the original post by the op, i don't think getting an aftermarket exhaust because it sounds nice is really in the scope of what he's looking to do. everything he's mentioned that he is looking for has a very functional purpose.
I don't mean to be rude, but it jus seems like you have some sort of inferiority complex about the fact that you have a custom made exhaust and you want other people to jump onto the same boat whether or not they are looking to do that kind of mod.
I don't mean to be rude, but it jus seems like you have some sort of inferiority complex about the fact that you have a custom made exhaust and you want other people to jump onto the same boat whether or not they are looking to do that kind of mod.
#30
Unregistered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: California
Posts: 1,138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
oops, I thought he was someone else. I dont have any disorders, Jon, I am just telling routs for saving a few bucks when people ask for it and as I said I was a bit confused because someone else came here and wanted help with building a show car. I dont have a custom exhaust, I have a stock 1. Inferiority u say? yea, thats why I chose UR pulleys instead of cheap e-bay brands, I chose Progress RSB instead of cutting springs, I picked a car with Navi. Yes, I have a fairly cheap Topspeed header, but that is only because many others had tried them before.
I am growing tired of you people always judging me for no/small reasons and being unable to back up your strong judgement...
I am growing tired of you people always judging me for no/small reasons and being unable to back up your strong judgement...
#31
Less than $2500 for all of that, and it'll probably do what I want to do.
Do you have another suggestion s001y? If a few more dolars will get me alot more, I may go with your suggestion. The $3000 isn't a strict limit, just a guideline so people don't suggest something that's $10,000 and way out of my range.
Do you have another suggestion s001y? If a few more dolars will get me alot more, I may go with your suggestion. The $3000 isn't a strict limit, just a guideline so people don't suggest something that's $10,000 and way out of my range.
Well, if you are going in for the performance, u will need the full set up to get max-out. Hondata, headers, air-intake, extractor, exhaust system and high-flow cat. Not much point doing part and not the full set up. Throw in tuning to complete the whole package.
Handling
Suspension, SPC cambers (front & rear), good forged & lightened rims (new offset +43 & R17-225 minmum), low profile tyres. Undercarriage bars for stiffening chasis. Maybe a front strut bar with brake stopper. I am still looking for a rear strut bar but don't find any Jap made ones. Any US made ones?
Brake Kits : I could put this on hold as I would improved the stock brakes setup with better pads, braided brake hoses and a cyclinder brake stopper (could be part of the front Strut bar). Weigh this cost vs a aftermarket brake system set.
I will not buy the rear sway bar because the chasis tightening would alter the handling characteristics on cornering and the stock bars maybe good enough already with the chasis stiffening.
I do not know your US prices, but a simple addition would probably see just above US$3500 as my estimates.
#32
Drifting
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Age: 46
Posts: 2,548
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
I disagree pretty strongly with your suggestions s001y. The chassis stiffening, while effective does not offer a strong improvement for the money. Certainly not on a mostly stock car. The OP would see a much strong return on his investment from the rear sway bar than he would with all of chassis braces you can buy. If the bang for one's buck is a concern, the RSB is a way better move.
Also, what is an extractor and a cylinder brake stopper? I've not heard these terms before.
Also, what is an extractor and a cylinder brake stopper? I've not heard these terms before.
#33
JDM Addict
I disagree pretty strongly with your suggestions s001y. The chassis stiffening, while effective does not offer a strong improvement for the money. Certainly not on a mostly stock car. The OP would see a much strong return on his investment from the rear sway bar than he would with all of chassis braces you can buy. If the bang for one's buck is a concern, the RSB is a way better move.
Also, what is an extractor and a cylinder brake stopper? I've not heard these terms before.
Also, what is an extractor and a cylinder brake stopper? I've not heard these terms before.
s001y... are you even talking about the TSX? I don't think you are.
sounds like you are talking about a different car.
SPC cambers? no. and their kit up front? no way.
rear strut bar? on a TSX? no.
how is a cyclinder brake stopper part of a front strut tie bar?
no RSB? are you kidding me? the stock is sufficient? waaay off there.
Last edited by MMsTSX; 02-10-2009 at 11:06 AM.
#34
Racer
here's my personal opinion:
factory A-Spec suspension - 700
Progress RSB 22mm adjustable - $140
ROTORA/STOPTECH Slotted Rotors/Pads $450-$500
stainless braided brake lines - $150
Hondata Reflash - $595
DC Header - $325
K&N drop in filter - $45
total = 2405.
you should be able to get all of the parts installed for less than 600.
the a-spec suspension will get you about 1 - 1.25" drop. comes as a complete unit making installation super easy. it will remain soft over bumps, but take out body roll. you shouldn't need an alignment or camber kit with it. but I would reccomment an alignment with any suspension change.
I personally think that icebox intakes aren't worth much more than just a drop in highflow air filter replacement.
factory A-Spec suspension - 700
Progress RSB 22mm adjustable - $140
ROTORA/STOPTECH Slotted Rotors/Pads $450-$500
stainless braided brake lines - $150
Hondata Reflash - $595
DC Header - $325
K&N drop in filter - $45
total = 2405.
you should be able to get all of the parts installed for less than 600.
the a-spec suspension will get you about 1 - 1.25" drop. comes as a complete unit making installation super easy. it will remain soft over bumps, but take out body roll. you shouldn't need an alignment or camber kit with it. but I would reccomment an alignment with any suspension change.
I personally think that icebox intakes aren't worth much more than just a drop in highflow air filter replacement.
#35
JDM Addict
#37
where is my garage?!
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: nassau county, ny
Age: 46
Posts: 1,857
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
have to also disagree with that statement. if you just drop in a K&N into the stock airbox, you aren't changing much of anything b/c the resonator is still in place, and that's basically where all the restriction is.
the icebox intake has a larger volume airbox lid, and the snorkel where the air gets sucked in that replaces the stock piping/resonator.
simply put, the CT icebox encourages better airflow than the stock intake system. if a change of filter were the solution, the icebox and the mugen intake would be irrelevant. i don't think the folks over at mugen are just fooling around making intakes.
the icebox intake has a larger volume airbox lid, and the snorkel where the air gets sucked in that replaces the stock piping/resonator.
simply put, the CT icebox encourages better airflow than the stock intake system. if a change of filter were the solution, the icebox and the mugen intake would be irrelevant. i don't think the folks over at mugen are just fooling around making intakes.
#38
Racer
the design of the icebox isn't that much different than the stock intake with the resonator removed.
I personally think that the majority of the gain is from the non restrictive filter.
as far as I know, there has never been a dyno done to compare the 2.
if I were going to buy an intake, I would get a full length CAI over the comptech icebox.
I personally have a K&N with the resonator removed and I've cut the backing off of the fake brake duct grille so that air can pass through the front bumper to the air filter box.
I personally think that the majority of the gain is from the non restrictive filter.
as far as I know, there has never been a dyno done to compare the 2.
if I were going to buy an intake, I would get a full length CAI over the comptech icebox.
I personally have a K&N with the resonator removed and I've cut the backing off of the fake brake duct grille so that air can pass through the front bumper to the air filter box.
#39
Racer
have to also disagree with that statement. if you just drop in a K&N into the stock airbox, you aren't changing much of anything b/c the resonator is still in place, and that's basically where all the restriction is.
the icebox intake has a larger volume airbox lid, and the snorkel where the air gets sucked in that replaces the stock piping/resonator.
simply put, the CT icebox encourages better airflow than the stock intake system. if a change of filter were the solution, the icebox and the mugen intake would be irrelevant. i don't think the folks over at mugen are just fooling around making intakes.
the icebox intake has a larger volume airbox lid, and the snorkel where the air gets sucked in that replaces the stock piping/resonator.
simply put, the CT icebox encourages better airflow than the stock intake system. if a change of filter were the solution, the icebox and the mugen intake would be irrelevant. i don't think the folks over at mugen are just fooling around making intakes.
and I, as well as others, think that mugen is over priced and over rated.
#40
boost owns
Mugen is over-priced and over-rated; nobody's really going to argue against that. The only reason to buy Mugen is if you're building a show car. For performance purposes, there are many brands which out-perform equivalent Mugen parts for less money. Mugen is the essence of show and no go.