godfather2

cant wait for the finished product, jason

Tsx536

Looks awesome Jason

Definitely keep us updated as to how much of a difference that you feel. Hopefully extra throttle response and some more power on the low end

chuson

Yup, sharper throttle response and some little gain in mid-rpm range is what I want.

Too bad we don't have tunable engine management, or else bored out the engine head w/ proper tuning will see a bigger gain.

CCColtsicehockey

well I really want to do this but after installing my j's racing intake this past weekend I think it would make fitment near impossible almost.

chuson

After the longest wait, everything has been installed on my car~!

It was rainning outside right now, thru some road test the mid-range seems to shot up alot faster, and the VTEC (@6K+) is LOUD. I will verify the gain later on when the weather is getting better.

However, I'm running into 2 problems.

1. Higher Idle rpm - Currently it's idling @ 1.5Krpm when it's cold; and about 950rpm when it warms up. That's about 200-250rpm higher than before.

2. Mine is a auto. In SS mode any gear (happens the same in D), it kinda choke. Once I left the gas pedal and let the rpm drop, it bounced back to 2Krpm whenever it touch the 1Krpm line. It was so strong that it pulls the car away if I don't brake on it.

JTso and Horro, did you guys experienced the same too??? I need some quick help here~ THANKS.

JTso

iTrader: (2)

I don't have any problem with idle rpm. It's dead on at 750. You might want to check for leaks around the TB gasket. I would also check the throttle plate clearance and adjust via the set screw inside the TB accordingly (set it to almost completely close without the TB plate sticking to the body).

Btw, I would have left the 06 TB alone and not bore it any larger than the stock size as it's already large enough. The larger it is, the more pronounced the tip-in throttle you would experience.

Methodx

Through all my years of tuning and modifing engines I will say that those mods dont negate much of a gain at all. From my altima to the Subaru STI. A larger throttle body will usually give better throttle response, but unless there is a pnp manifold and intake it does not do much for horsepower. As far as spacers, there is a possiblity of throttle response and thats it. On a dyno I have seen lightened pulley's negate a 1whp gain, but a 1whp can be made from a cooler car or a slight iat drop. I have seen larger a throttlebody on a boosted car negate a gain but no more than 2 to 3whp. I have learned that usally what a company claims is never what you actually get.

With all those mods you will see no more that 5 to 7whp, but thats because the intake will make most of the gain pending there is a lower iat. You might notice some better throttle response. I am not writing this to be a jerk, but I hate when companies create these parts that make great claims and will never back it up.

chuson

Thanks.

I never expect any whp/wtq gain for this whole series of mod, maybe sharpen the throttle response, that's it. I shouldn't even comment for now cause my rpm is higher than normal, so throttle response is SUPPOSE to be sharper for now. I'm still finding ways to fix this issue before VTEC kicks in... lol

chuson

Hey Johnny, I've checked and there's no leak around all those TB gasket. However, I have NOT check the throttle plate clearance yet. I saw a gold bolt (or screw) on the side of the throttle body, did you mean that one or there's a screw INSIDE the throttle body?

How much should I turn the screw?

JTso

iTrader: (2)

You have to remove the control module to perform the adjustments and manually open/close the tb plate to verify clearance. The top adjustment is for fully closed. The ECU signals the drive control module to close the TB plate initially when the ignition is turned on as a self check. Then the TB plate returns to the home position resting against the lower adjustment screw. Verify the TB plate does not stick at the fully closed position. Then adjust the home position set screw out so the cam no longer touches the set screw. Then slowly turn the set screw in until it touches the cam. Then turn the set screw in another 1/4 turn or so. Don't forget to tigthen the lock nuts when done. You may have to do this a couple of times to get it right. Then connect an OBD2 scan tool (one that supports DBW) to verify throttle position.

Throttle plate adjustment points - One at 11 o'clock for fully closed adjustment. One at 5 o'clock for home (normal) position adjustment.

chuson

Thanks for the quick reply.

It took me quite awhile to read this "little" paragraph, digest it and understand it. I will give it a try and see if I can disassemble the TB, if not I will need my mechanic to figure it out.

chuson

[QOUTE]Then adjust the home position set screw out so the cam no longer touches the set screw. Then slowly turn the set screw in until it touches the cam. [/QUOTE]

I have adjusted the Top adjustment screw for fully close but NOT stick to the body; it doesn't help much. Can you show me WHICH home position set screw you are talking about? I can't find any other adjustment screw here. HELP~

chuson

BTW Johnny, my TB looks a little bit different than the one from your pictures. I think I mixed up home position screw and close screw since the location is different.

JTso

iTrader: (2)

Can you take a pic with the black gear off? I think it's blocking one of the adjustment.

chuson

As requested...

chuson

I don't see any adjustment screw there. The 2 screws that I saw is one @ 9"O clock position; then another behind the 11"O clock position behind the shell (See yellow paint). Which one is which?

chuson

Johnny, do you think my issue has to do w/ my ECU being Auto??? Or is it a straightly Throttle body plate position issue?

JTso

iTrader: (2)

The adjustment on top that's accessible externally is your home position. The pic below indicates both set screws are adjusted incorreclty.

chuson

Hey Johnny, so how do I set the screw to the correct position? How much further in I should screw in or out?"?

At this moment the cam (silver gear) does NOT touch either the Home position screw NOR the other screw when it's @ a fully close postion.

chuson

Johnny, help. Which is a correct positon by your defintion?

I did NOT adjust the screw @ 9"O clock position, simply because it doesn't touch the cam even the TB plate is fully close (not stick to the body). It seems like there's no way the cam will touch this screw too.

JTso

iTrader: (2)

There should be a hex in the center of the set screw for the adjustment. Did you test the TB before sending out for the big bore service?

chuson

Yeh, there's hex in the center of the set screw for adjustment, however, the 9"o clock position screw doesn't touch the cam even when it's closed. Do you have a picture to show me how far the screw should turn in?

The driving expereince was a LITTLE bit better than yesterday, but it still started to pull (throttle in) to 2K rpm when the rpm drops to 1K rpm in any gear.

JTso

iTrader: (2)

Sorry, no pic on the adjustment screw. Have you tried reinstalling the original TB to see if it's a TB issue?

chuson

BTW: I have not test the 06 IM/TB before bigbore service because it came (almost BNIB) from a member (TodaSi) here.

chuson

I know it's very complicate to explain those details, so thank you for being patient.

For that 9"O clock screw, that is for the close position right? The 11"O Clock screw is for home position then.

So, should that closing position screw TOUCH the cam? Right now it's not touching and the TB plate is completely closed. I can imagine if I turn that closing postion screw IN and touch the cam, the TB plate will leave a gap (size of gap will depends on how far the screw is in.)

JTso

iTrader: (2)

Try this...

1. Back off the set screw at 11:00 o'clock ( I will refer this as A).

2. Back off the set screw at 9:00 o'clock (I will refer this as B) all the way and watch the TB plate closes completely.

3. Turn in A until there's a very slight gap between the TB plate and the TB body.

4. Rotate the cam manually to completely close the TB plate. While holding the cam at this position, turn in B so the cam is resting on the set screw.

5. Tighten all lock nuts.

6. Reinstall the TB and connectors.

7. Ask someone to turn on the ignition without starting the engine, then watch for the TB plate closes momentarily during the self test. Then it should go back to the normal resting position with a very slight gap between the TB body.

8. Start the engine to verify no CEL.

chuson

Thanks for your advice, I will give it a try now.

I was lack of tools in this afternoon (went back home from mechanic) so I can't open the TB to set the screw B inside. I was playing w/ screw A (external one), and I think it kinda help, what I did was turn the screw A inwards the cam.

My starting idle still high @ around 1500rpm, then drops to 800rpm slowly. When I stop my car @ traffic light (no gas), it stuck @ 1000 rpm for like half second, then slowly back to 700rpm.

However, it seems like when the throttle is COMPLETELY close (car idle in D + brake), the rpm can settle @ 700rpm stable, however, if the car was rolling slow in 1Krpm, it just keep bouncing back to 1500rpm (about 500rpm lower than yesterday) then slow down again.

I was thinking should the home position set FURTHER apart from close position? I'm not talking about a small gap @ home position, more like a BIG gap maybe???

Will go try to play around some more.... brb

chuson

BTW... I hope everythings work out because the gain is SWEET (for now).

- Mid-range pick up ALOT faster
- VTEC doesn't kick in until 6Krpm (no Hondata yet) BUT it seems like VTEC kicks in @ 5K rpm, I can literally hear it roar and the rpm rised as fast as in VTEC range
- I can also hear my 6" filter sucking in air thru CAI lol....

afici0nad0

nice mods. get your tb fixed asap...

CarbonGray Earl

ya chuson, good stuff. Hope you get your idle back to status quo.