moda_way's Comptech I/H/E, RT Cat, and Hondata dyno
#42
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Originally Posted by shaang
Just watched yur vids, just realized how much louder my HyTech is compared to other set-ups out there! BTW, nice numbers!
Originally Posted by TSX536
Nice videos!
I think your numbers are fine. That dyno probably reads a little low.
I think your numbers are fine. That dyno probably reads a little low.
#44
Originally Posted by CCColtsicehockey
I know you have the comptech icebox and the injen intake and the k&n make more power which you know. you want to buy my injen cause i am thinking of ordering the gruppe m intake or mahybe I should just get the supercharger and call it a day.
SC all the way..
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Man I should've stopped over your place. I was down on Saturday, but had to spend time with the family and all before I left again.
Those numbers don't look too bad. Getting that CAI should help a bit.
Also if you ever plan on doing the Pullies install let me know I've wanted to get them in too and if it's too hard for you to tackle I'll probably get them done at a shop.
btw. where was the dyno done? Did you go up to Dayton?
Those numbers don't look too bad. Getting that CAI should help a bit.
Also if you ever plan on doing the Pullies install let me know I've wanted to get them in too and if it's too hard for you to tackle I'll probably get them done at a shop.
btw. where was the dyno done? Did you go up to Dayton?
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Originally Posted by PixelHarmony
Man I should've stopped over your place. I was down on Saturday, but had to spend time with the family and all before I left again.
Those numbers don't look too bad. Getting that CAI should help a bit.
Also if you ever plan on doing the Pullies install let me know I've wanted to get them in too and if it's too hard for you to tackle I'll probably get them done at a shop.
btw. where was the dyno done? Did you go up to Dayton?
Those numbers don't look too bad. Getting that CAI should help a bit.
Also if you ever plan on doing the Pullies install let me know I've wanted to get them in too and if it's too hard for you to tackle I'll probably get them done at a shop.
btw. where was the dyno done? Did you go up to Dayton?
I would totally do pullies if it weren't for the cost. $275 for 5-10hp... a little rich for me.
I'm pretty sure the Comptech Icebox had similar results as the Injen, so I'm not sure if getting it would really improve me more.
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Yeah, I'm not sure why people are saying that the Injen will actually produce higher HP numbers.
Check out this thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25092
Here's the dyno from it:
Also, if it makes you feel any better Moda_way. Check out Asahi's numbers. He had a 6MT stock with just intake. See your numbers are pretty good
Red=Stock
Blue=Injen
Green=Icebox
Check out this thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25092
Here's the dyno from it:
Also, if it makes you feel any better Moda_way. Check out Asahi's numbers. He had a 6MT stock with just intake. See your numbers are pretty good
Originally Posted by Asahi
Stock vs Comptech vs Injen:
Both Intakes made power over stock. I kept the Comptech cause it's throttle response was better, it's midrange was good and it's upper end was a lot better than the Injen I tested. The Injen did have more midrange but the amount of power difference was smaller and over all area under the curve went to the Comptech
Both Intakes made power over stock. I kept the Comptech cause it's throttle response was better, it's midrange was good and it's upper end was a lot better than the Injen I tested. The Injen did have more midrange but the amount of power difference was smaller and over all area under the curve went to the Comptech
Blue=Injen
Green=Icebox
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^^See, that's what I thought. What about the 12% lower readings claimed on that dyno readout per the original thread?
I'm very happy with the way the car performs now. More importantly, I'm getting +27mpg with my regular route that I used to take, but before the reflash, I was getting 24-26mpg TOPS. Again, not sure if the reflash did something other than lean me out, but the mpg is definitely great now. I mean, I got 27mpg including the dyno runs that were done and some spirited driving.
I'm very happy with the way the car performs now. More importantly, I'm getting +27mpg with my regular route that I used to take, but before the reflash, I was getting 24-26mpg TOPS. Again, not sure if the reflash did something other than lean me out, but the mpg is definitely great now. I mean, I got 27mpg including the dyno runs that were done and some spirited driving.
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^^ That's awesome MPG man.
...And yeah, that's how I look at it. I never get caught up in the numbers. I worry more about how my car drives and performs on the street. As long as you enjoy how your car drives, that's what it's all about
...And yeah, that's how I look at it. I never get caught up in the numbers. I worry more about how my car drives and performs on the street. As long as you enjoy how your car drives, that's what it's all about
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Just got confirmation that Hondata has tuned our reflash a/f ratio to around 13.2:1. The readout I'm getting could have a margin of error that would put it exactly where it should be. I'm satisfied with that explanation from Hondata.
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Originally Posted by zidenx
you know the reflash is tuned for the stock setup right? adding mods will change your afr.
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Originally Posted by moda_way
Just got confirmation that Hondata has tuned our reflash a/f ratio to around 13.2:1. The readout I'm getting could have a margin of error that would put it exactly where it should be. I'm satisfied with that explanation from Hondata.
#55
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Originally Posted by zidenx
you know the reflash is tuned for the stock setup right? adding mods will change your afr.
This is what I thought after reading Hondata's website. Regardless, moda_ has the hondata recommended parts for the tune, he's good to go.
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Originally Posted by Tsx536
Also, the a/f is probably being read on the dyno from the tailpipe sniffer. That might explain why it's a little different.
Yeah, it was a sniffer, which is seen in the video. I assumed that to be the area of most concern with relation to accuracy.
Again, Hondata knew of every component via my email, so a 13.2:1 a/f is close enough to what was read. I'm satisfied.
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Originally Posted by Reach
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but the 04 tune was created for the Comptech I/H combo, while the 06 tune was created w/ stock components.
This is what I thought after reading Hondata's website. Regardless, moda_ has the hondata recommended parts for the tune, he's good to go.
This is what I thought after reading Hondata's website. Regardless, moda_ has the hondata recommended parts for the tune, he's good to go.
#58
mrgold35
Have you checked out how Dinan Dynos their BMWs:
- Take readings from the drive shaft instead of the tires (eliminate wheel slippage and lost of power)
- Use of 38,000 cubic feet per minute of air flow fans to produce a 75 MPH headwind to help heat exchange and dissipation. Heat build-up in powertrain/oil/cooling system causes the ECU to run on the rich side and lowers power output. A 10 degree increase in overall temp can reduce HP numbers.
- Running the transmission as close as possible to a 1 to 1 ratio reducing power losses and transmission wear (4th gear for 6MT)
From Dinan testing, dyno testing is only an approximation of the true engine output. There are too many variables that will skew the output results. True engine output can only be realized on the road running in the environment it was designed for anything less than is just a guessimation (summary of Dinan words).
I wonder about your results using Dinan Dyno methods?
http://www.dinancars.com/whitepapersFile.asp?ID=9
- Take readings from the drive shaft instead of the tires (eliminate wheel slippage and lost of power)
- Use of 38,000 cubic feet per minute of air flow fans to produce a 75 MPH headwind to help heat exchange and dissipation. Heat build-up in powertrain/oil/cooling system causes the ECU to run on the rich side and lowers power output. A 10 degree increase in overall temp can reduce HP numbers.
- Running the transmission as close as possible to a 1 to 1 ratio reducing power losses and transmission wear (4th gear for 6MT)
From Dinan testing, dyno testing is only an approximation of the true engine output. There are too many variables that will skew the output results. True engine output can only be realized on the road running in the environment it was designed for anything less than is just a guessimation (summary of Dinan words).
I wonder about your results using Dinan Dyno methods?
http://www.dinancars.com/whitepapersFile.asp?ID=9
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