JTso's Custom Engine Torque Damper Setup (ETD)
#202
Updates...
Some quick updates on the ETD setup. The K24 torque monster did it again. This time is the poly bushing inside the ETD unit. The actual problem is the washers being too small, allowing them to punch through the bushing under high torque. I was wondering why the setup starting to make rattling noises especially with the AC on.
I replaced the washers with larger ones (1.00" dia) to provide better bushing support. I also swapped out the poly bushings and put in the rubber ones. The rubber bushings actually work well and less vibrations even with AC on. The NRG unit comes with an extra set of bushings.
I have to enlarge the center on the larger washers to fit the mounting rod
After a short period of testing and evaluation, I have decided to keep only one ETD bracket design in favor of strength and ease of implementation. The original bracket might still work but I notice a slight lift on the bottom of the bracket, which means it's not strong enough. Therefore, the original tower bracket design is out, along with the long ETD unit. This allows me to focus on the Cusco compatible bracket and get the brackets out quicker.
This is another reason why things must go slowly. I do the testing and absorb the cost associate with problems so you don't have to.
A few things to keep in mind...
1. The Cusco compartible bracket will only work if you are willing to remove the stock strut bar or grind down the lip on the edge.
2. If you have stock front shocks, the mounting studs might be too short for the bracket. The studs on my Flex are longer than stock. Someone please post pic of stock setup (shock tower) and measure the exposed length of the stud.
3. The NRG ETD is a great unit but the internal washers must be replaced prior to use. Also consider using the rubber bushings for less vibrations.
The original bracket on the left is out. The Cusco compatible bracket will be the only one I'm working on.
I replaced the washers with larger ones (1.00" dia) to provide better bushing support. I also swapped out the poly bushings and put in the rubber ones. The rubber bushings actually work well and less vibrations even with AC on. The NRG unit comes with an extra set of bushings.
I have to enlarge the center on the larger washers to fit the mounting rod
After a short period of testing and evaluation, I have decided to keep only one ETD bracket design in favor of strength and ease of implementation. The original bracket might still work but I notice a slight lift on the bottom of the bracket, which means it's not strong enough. Therefore, the original tower bracket design is out, along with the long ETD unit. This allows me to focus on the Cusco compatible bracket and get the brackets out quicker.
This is another reason why things must go slowly. I do the testing and absorb the cost associate with problems so you don't have to.
A few things to keep in mind...
1. The Cusco compartible bracket will only work if you are willing to remove the stock strut bar or grind down the lip on the edge.
2. If you have stock front shocks, the mounting studs might be too short for the bracket. The studs on my Flex are longer than stock. Someone please post pic of stock setup (shock tower) and measure the exposed length of the stud.
3. The NRG ETD is a great unit but the internal washers must be replaced prior to use. Also consider using the rubber bushings for less vibrations.
The original bracket on the left is out. The Cusco compatible bracket will be the only one I'm working on.
#203
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Queensland, Australia
Age: 37
Posts: 991
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks for the update! the new larger washer looks as though it'll eliminate the problem that the smaller washers were causing.
doing a great job jtso!
doing a great job jtso!
#204
C'mon, man! Row yer own.
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: WDMIA
Age: 57
Posts: 1,210
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#206
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Queensland, Australia
Age: 37
Posts: 991
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hmm good question... i got my stock shocks down in the garage, i could go have a look? But for some reason i don't think they are designed to be removed or replaced so it might be hard
#208
C'mon, man! Row yer own.
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: WDMIA
Age: 57
Posts: 1,210
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by JTso
Thanks for the pics. The bracket is about 6.25mm or 1/4" thick. The stock strut bar mounting nut is about 8.5mm tall.
#211
I think it needs to be done on a mill with a flat bit instead of the normal angle drill bit.
It look like the one on the left. http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~rapidproto/st...oject2/tip.gif
It look like the one on the left. http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~rapidproto/st...oject2/tip.gif
#213
C'mon, man! Row yer own.
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: WDMIA
Age: 57
Posts: 1,210
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by JTso
I think it needs to be done on a mill with a flat bit instead of the normal angle drill bit.
It look like the one on the left. http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~rapidproto/st...oject2/tip.gif
It look like the one on the left. http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~rapidproto/st...oject2/tip.gif
Just my totally unscientific thoughts!
#215
Driver/Detailer
Originally Posted by peter_bigblock
Or a drill press and a flat bit. It would obviously be thinner at the bolt holes, but it seems that that bracket doesn't experience much up-and-down force, more front-to-back force (you can tell I'm no engineer). So 2mm recesses to give the nuts more purchase on the stud might not have a real effect on the bracket's durability, but it still comes down to whether you can get a nice straight recess without a drill press.
Just my totally unscientific thoughts!
Just my totally unscientific thoughts!
#216
C'mon, man! Row yer own.
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: WDMIA
Age: 57
Posts: 1,210
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by aaronng
The point at which the damper is bolted onto the bracket is a few cm above the bolts which hold the bracket to the chassis. Therefore there is a moment of rotation which will translate to a lifting force on the bolt that is closer to the front. So there will be an effect when bracket is thinned out.
#217
Driver/Detailer
Originally Posted by peter_bigblock
You're right, I forgot the mounting point is 6mm or so higher. I wonder, though, if that would generate enough force to do dmg. Only one way to find out -- send me a bracket set and I'll drill them and report my findings. JTso?
Pic from the 1st page:
#218
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Queensland, Australia
Age: 37
Posts: 991
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i just found a picture of the SPOON etd designed for the CL7, to me it looks to be an almost identical design to the Cusco compatible one JTso has developed.
Maybe someone can comment... but this looks like it may fit?
edit: just realised this was bought up earlier in the thread
it looks like it may fit though?
Maybe someone can comment... but this looks like it may fit?
edit: just realised this was bought up earlier in the thread
it looks like it may fit though?
#219
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Queensland, Australia
Age: 37
Posts: 991
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the j's racing one in the engine bay
it looks like it might not fit because the hose is in the way for the CL9... but maybe it could be modified slightly to fit? I'm not sure
it looks like it might not fit because the hose is in the way for the CL9... but maybe it could be modified slightly to fit? I'm not sure
#220
Suzuka Master
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Age: 49
Posts: 7,594
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
3 Posts
Originally Posted by Chris_F
it looks like it might not fit because the hose is in the way for the CL9... but maybe it could be modified slightly to fit? I'm not sure
#221
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,638
Received 3,858 Likes
on
2,579 Posts
Originally Posted by Chris_F
the j's racing one in the engine bay
it looks like it might not fit because the hose is in the way for the CL9... but maybe it could be modified slightly to fit? I'm not sure
it looks like it might not fit because the hose is in the way for the CL9... but maybe it could be modified slightly to fit? I'm not sure
#223
Driver/Detailer
Originally Posted by JTso
Yup, the design is almost the same minus the high JDM price tag.
BTW JDM = JTso domestic market.
#225
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,638
Received 3,858 Likes
on
2,579 Posts
Originally Posted by CCColtsicehockey
what is that hose for cause I have always wanted to find a place to reroute it too.
#226
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Queensland, Australia
Age: 37
Posts: 991
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by moda_way
If J's would reverse their engine mounted bracket, it would fit. JTso's is exactly that concept.
Originally Posted by CCColtsicehockey
what is that hose for cause I have always wanted to find a place to reroute it too.
JTso, can you confirm that the hose is the only thing preventing the CL7 etd's from fitting? You know a lot more about etd designs than anyone. thanks.
the hardlines to the left of the ETD look slightly different from Cl7 to CL9 and might pose some clearance isues.
#227
Originally Posted by CCColtsicehockey
what is that hose for cause I have always wanted to find a place to reroute it too.
Originally Posted by aaronng
Do you think you could replicate the bracket design that J's racing used? It looks like their strut tower bracket has a bend that allows it to clear the stock strut bar.
Originally Posted by moda_way
And that's why we like your stuff so much.
Originally Posted by Chris_F
Yea, that's what i was thinking aswell. Wouldn't it be possible to just flip the J's racing engine bracket around it mount it the way Jtso's is? I have a feeling there may be a way to use these CL7 etd's.
Originally Posted by Chris_F
JTso, can you confirm that the hose is the only thing preventing the CL7 etd's from fitting? You know a lot more about etd designs than anyone. thanks.
the hardlines to the left of the ETD look slightly different from Cl7 to CL9 and might pose some clearance isues.
the hardlines to the left of the ETD look slightly different from Cl7 to CL9 and might pose some clearance isues.
#228
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,638
Received 3,858 Likes
on
2,579 Posts
Originally Posted by JTso
That's the power steering hose. It's possible to relocate it by replacing it with a custom stainless braided hose and AN fittings. However, it will be a tight fit between the valve cover and shock tower (not over the valve cover).
#230
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Queensland, Australia
Age: 37
Posts: 991
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hmm it might be time to look into a custom braided line to replace that hose... alternatively could we just get a longer hose and bend it in a different way?
I'd still prefer a J(Tso)DM version, because I actually think the design is much better than the Spoon and J's racing version. The extra bracing that you (JTso) use and the thick steel gives me more confidence that itll last for a long time.
I'd still prefer a J(Tso)DM version, because I actually think the design is much better than the Spoon and J's racing version. The extra bracing that you (JTso) use and the thick steel gives me more confidence that itll last for a long time.
#231
I did a mock-up of the shock tower bracket with the stock strut bar. As you can see in the pics below, there is very little support if keeping the stock strut bar untouched. I need at least 27mm from the edge of the bottom piece to the edge of the top piece for welding. Additionally, the mounting studs must be long enough. If you want to keep the stock strut bar, it might be better to try the CL7 ETD setup and customize a new power steering hose. I think Spoon's or J's have a thinner bracket with a bend to clear the strut bar.
This is a redesigned bracket that provides more support for the upper bracket.
This is a redesigned bracket that provides more support for the upper bracket.
#232
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,638
Received 3,858 Likes
on
2,579 Posts
Originally Posted by JTso
It can be extended. What do you have in mind?
I figure if possibly put two right angle pieces where it comes out of the pump and take it down first instead of up.
#233
Moderator
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Regional Coordinator (Southeast)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mooresville, NC
Age: 38
Posts: 43,638
Received 3,858 Likes
on
2,579 Posts
another thing we need a better picture of the cl7 engine bay so we can figure out where the power steering is run on it.
#234
Originally Posted by CCColtsicehockey
I have nothing in mind right now but I am going to try to come up with something cause it makes the engine bay ugly. i just know thta if you extend the lines going from the brake cylinder you can cause uneven braking and I didnt want to extend the cable if it would cause problems.
I figure if possibly put two right angle pieces where it comes out of the pump and take it down first instead of up.
I figure if possibly put two right angle pieces where it comes out of the pump and take it down first instead of up.
#235
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Queensland, Australia
Age: 37
Posts: 991
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'll send what you just wrote to a friend that knows all about An fittings etc. it all sounds a bit alien to me, I don't think it's something I could do myself.
I couldn't find the power steering hose in this picture of the CL7 engine bay
maybe found out where it goes in the DC5r since they are both k20's
I couldn't find the power steering hose in this picture of the CL7 engine bay
maybe found out where it goes in the DC5r since they are both k20's
#236
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: ALBUQUERQUE, NEW MEXICO
Age: 50
Posts: 1,471
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Check the pics and video of Engine Torque Damper on Acura CL, it is very interesting.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...9&page=3&pp=25
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...9&page=3&pp=25
#237
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: ALBUQUERQUE, NEW MEXICO
Age: 50
Posts: 1,471
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have been research for Engine Torque Damper for TSX but it is hard to find one for TSX. I wonder if Ingalls Engine Torque Damper for RSX is same design of TSX because of same engine but different design of RSX and TSX. I really want buy one but need to get a few parts to support the Engine Torque Damper. JTso, if you plan to build a bracket then let us know, Thanks.
#238
Driver/Detailer
Originally Posted by Chris_F
I'll send what you just wrote to a friend that knows all about An fittings etc. it all sounds a bit alien to me, I don't think it's something I could do myself.
I couldn't find the power steering hose in this picture of the CL7 engine bay
maybe found out where it goes in the DC5r since they are both k20's
I couldn't find the power steering hose in this picture of the CL7 engine bay
maybe found out where it goes in the DC5r since they are both k20's
#239
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Queensland, Australia
Age: 37
Posts: 991
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by aaronng
The CL7 uses a similar EPS system to the EP3. Power steering is electrical.