How to get more torque
09-06-2007, 09:52 PM
#1
AcuraZine
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How to get more torque
Ok
The TSX has only 164 lbs-ft of torque and Im tired of slow take offs even when using the SS. I want to do something about that but i dont know exactly what to do.
Can anyone help me here.
The TSX has only 164 lbs-ft of torque and Im tired of slow take offs even when using the SS. I want to do something about that but i dont know exactly what to do.
Can anyone help me here.
09-06-2007, 10:12 PM
#3
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Search is your friend. But since I'm nice I will give you some clue... j/k
Depends on how much torque are you looking for. Basically, if you run your TSX on dyno, a stock TSX will gives you about mid130 - low140ish torque @ wheel. Therefore, how much torque and how much you can afford will be the factor here.
1. CHEAP --> The cheapest route to get more hp/tq is I/H/E/P/Hondata ECU mod. With all that you are looking around $2,000+/- (depends on what brand; new/used). Torque will be up to 150ish for AT.
2. Expensive -->
a) Supercharger --> This mod will cause you about $4,000 + labor; include Hondata specific SC ECU reflash. You can add I/H/E to it as well but it won't do much compare to SC. Torque will be up to 160-170ish.
b) N/A Tuning --> Hytech offers 3 different stages of N/A tune, price starting from $3000+ all the way up to $11,000. The highest stages offer more than 350+HP and 210+ tq, however, it might not legal @ your State since they delete the CAT to use Race header.
Start search more and read the dyno and you will find out which will suit you better.
Depends on how much torque are you looking for. Basically, if you run your TSX on dyno, a stock TSX will gives you about mid130 - low140ish torque @ wheel. Therefore, how much torque and how much you can afford will be the factor here.
1. CHEAP --> The cheapest route to get more hp/tq is I/H/E/P/Hondata ECU mod. With all that you are looking around $2,000+/- (depends on what brand; new/used). Torque will be up to 150ish for AT.
2. Expensive -->
a) Supercharger --> This mod will cause you about $4,000 + labor; include Hondata specific SC ECU reflash. You can add I/H/E to it as well but it won't do much compare to SC. Torque will be up to 160-170ish.
b) N/A Tuning --> Hytech offers 3 different stages of N/A tune, price starting from $3000+ all the way up to $11,000. The highest stages offer more than 350+HP and 210+ tq, however, it might not legal @ your State since they delete the CAT to use Race header.
Start search more and read the dyno and you will find out which will suit you better.
09-06-2007, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by chuson
b) N/A Tuning --> Hytech offers 3 different stages of N/A tune, price starting from $3000+ all the way up to $11,000. The highest stages offer more than 350+HP and 210+ tq, however, it might not legal @ your State since they delete the CAT to use Race header.
09-06-2007, 10:46 PM
#6
You want to take off faster? If that is your specific problem, get lightweight wheels and lightweight high performance tires. Stick with a 17 x 7 rim.
The difference in response is dramatic for your specific problem.....it probably makes the most difference for me from a dead stop.
The difference in response is dramatic for your specific problem.....it probably makes the most difference for me from a dead stop.
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09-07-2007, 08:01 AM
#9
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by chuson
a) Supercharger --> This mod will cause you about $4,000 + labor; include Hondata specific SC ECU reflash. You can add I/H/E to it as well but it won't do much compare to SC. Torque will be up to 160-170ish.
Originally Posted by chuson
b) N/A Tuning --> Hytech offers 3 different stages of N/A tune, price starting from $3000+ all the way up to $11,000. The highest stages offer more than 350+HP and 210+ tq, however, it might not legal @ your State since they delete the CAT to use Race header.
09-07-2007, 08:03 AM
#10
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by TheDukeZip
I noticed you have an 07 TSX, so Hondata reflashes aren't an option for you yet, AFAIK
09-07-2007, 09:23 AM
#11
Team Owner
Originally Posted by DAYTA
Good point. To the OP, sorry to say that besides the usual bolt-ons, you're pretty much S.O.L. for now...
I missed that too. No reflash, no supercharger.
yet
09-07-2007, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by curls
Get a 6MT and do some gear swapping. Gears are nothing more than a torque multiplier, so better gearing = more torque. 
It will always come down to this, but if you like the TSX and you care about performance, why oh why would you get an autotragic and complain about it's lack of performance after the fact?
09-07-2007, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by pacman821
Ok
The TSX has only 164 lbs-ft of torque and Im tired of slow take offs even when using the SS. I want to do something about that but i dont know exactly what to do.
Can anyone help me here.
The TSX has only 164 lbs-ft of torque and Im tired of slow take offs even when using the SS. I want to do something about that but i dont know exactly what to do.
Can anyone help me here.
Originally Posted by HoRRo
To be honest, he doesn't even need gear swapping, getting a 6MT will be quite a difference.
It will always come down to this, but if you like the TSX and you care about performance, why oh why would you get an autotragic and complain about it's lack of performance after the fact?
It will always come down to this, but if you like the TSX and you care about performance, why oh why would you get an autotragic and complain about it's lack of performance after the fact?
09-07-2007, 11:47 AM
#15
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Get a manual transmission.
No torque converter = more efficient coupling from engine to wheels.
No, I am not trying to start a flame war. I like ATs! They are just not for me. And, MTs are more efficient.
Edit: Oops, others have already taken the same tack!
No torque converter = more efficient coupling from engine to wheels.
No, I am not trying to start a flame war. I like ATs! They are just not for me. And, MTs are more efficient.
Edit: Oops, others have already taken the same tack!
09-07-2007, 01:46 PM
#17
Originally Posted by waTSX
The pulleys make a big difference.
09-07-2007, 02:39 PM
#18
I Quit
I have had my UR pulleys on for a while and as for performance they are wonderful. Deffinately lets the engine climb up the RPM scale faster getting you to the TSX's "powerband" more quickly. To directly answer carbongray earl's question in terms of NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) there is no extra vibration other than the occasional low idle feeling, as for harshness I haven't noticed anything over stock, and for vibration it's very slight with the power steering pump, example, when I am pulling into my driveway which means I am riding the clutch and the RPMs are very low and the wheel is fully turned the PS pump makes a sound, give it a bit of extra gas and let the clutch out further it goes away.
09-07-2007, 03:03 PM
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EDIT: some of my 1st post didnt make sence, (I shouldn't reply after just having woke up from a nap) Here is a better version of the reply.
Originally Posted by TSX Wisc Badger
The 6M/T does make a good amount of difference... mine is nice and when i drove a dealership loaner in an AT with the sport shift it surely wasnt as quick from a dead stop. However, i know what he is saying about not enough power... even the 6M/T still leaves you wanting just a little more, especially lower end torque and this is a topic that has been debated amongst 07-08 owners since the models hit the showroom floors. Because of hondata doesn't have a reflash out yet there are very limited options out there to increase the power of the engine. My advice to you is to sit tight, put some nice tires on the car ( i just switched my OEMS to Toyo Proxes 4's 215/50/17 and I've felt a little bit of difference upon launching from a dead stop ) maybe think about getting a Comptech Icebox or other cold air intake... at least the car will feel faster in the mid-high range RPMs and just save up for a hondata reflash (it should be around $600-$700 total). Also, If you are so inclined, give this thread a look and add your name to the list. Offical List for Hondata to reflash the 07-08 TSX .
09-08-2007, 02:36 AM
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Originally Posted by DAYTA
Again, not sure where you got your numbers from, but I'm pretty sure yours is off by almost 100hp...HyTech's dyno read 260whp, not 350. I believe you're confusing HyTech's N/A setup with Red Shift's "phantom" Stage-3 S/C which is supposed to put out 350whp. However, I've pretty much given up on them...
09-09-2007, 12:49 AM
#23
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by TommySalami
The full hytech setup has slightly over 300 whp, that's the $11,000 one
09-09-2007, 03:21 AM
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Originally Posted by DAYTA
Where'd you see the dyno for those numbers? The Grand Am race TSX dynoed at 260whp/210wtq which I believe had the full HyTech system...
You are talking about the Stage 1 Hytech Package....
The 315whp (I mistype as 350whp b4) is the Extreme package that include ITB and Full weld kit, you can even buy it HERE if you want.
See, I did my hw b4...
09-17-2007, 06:20 AM
#26
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i like the more inexpensive route:
diy icebox (kn filter, oem air box mod)
hondata im gasket
header
hf cat
reflash
pulleys (but that might bring it up to the inexpensive route)
diy icebox (kn filter, oem air box mod)
hondata im gasket
header
hf cat
reflash
pulleys (but that might bring it up to the inexpensive route)
09-23-2007, 09:10 PM
#27
I have to agree here...
hunterk1,
I agree 100%.
First of all, most cars with automatics do two things with a factory tune.
1) They almost never fully lock the torque converter at WOT. I have yet to see a production automatic with a stock PCM program fully lock the converter at WOT.
This is of course if we are talking about an electronic lock-up. Not the old days of the mechanical lock-up (meaning no torque converter clutch solenoid) once inside certain gears.
If the converter is allowed to slip then you will not transfer all the power to the wheels.
2) This is the most noticable trait of an automatic transmission and a stock PCM. Spark timing is always retarded before and during an upshift and depending on the gear the torque converter is delayed before locking up.
This is done for various reasons. In the Ford world it is done to allow a softer shift feel so the average customer can not detect the gear shift. In the GM world it's done to prolong the life of the clutches and FWD components.
The spark timing is the most annoying part of the auto and the stock factory progams. Manual transmissions for the most part are not affected by this. No torque converter and spark timing isn't retarded before and during the shift.
A-Train
I agree 100%.
First of all, most cars with automatics do two things with a factory tune.
1) They almost never fully lock the torque converter at WOT. I have yet to see a production automatic with a stock PCM program fully lock the converter at WOT.
This is of course if we are talking about an electronic lock-up. Not the old days of the mechanical lock-up (meaning no torque converter clutch solenoid) once inside certain gears.
If the converter is allowed to slip then you will not transfer all the power to the wheels.
2) This is the most noticable trait of an automatic transmission and a stock PCM. Spark timing is always retarded before and during an upshift and depending on the gear the torque converter is delayed before locking up.
This is done for various reasons. In the Ford world it is done to allow a softer shift feel so the average customer can not detect the gear shift. In the GM world it's done to prolong the life of the clutches and FWD components.
The spark timing is the most annoying part of the auto and the stock factory progams. Manual transmissions for the most part are not affected by this. No torque converter and spark timing isn't retarded before and during the shift.
A-Train
01-24-2008, 12:31 AM
#29
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Originally Posted by tsx4lyfe
i cant believe that someone would spend 11 gs on the tsx come on thats a waste 300whp is good but 11gs!!!!!! just buy a new car the now thats smarter
01-24-2008, 02:04 AM
#30
Special-K
i'd rather have a fast TSX rather than a fast G35/350Z/evo/sti/srt4/etc.. 11k is alot of money but if you dont want the motor to blow up, you have to build from within when going N/A. Stay on the safe side and dont do it half way! I dont think anyone with a 350Z who wanted to go twin turbo ever heard.. "why dont you just get an S4 if you wanted twin turbo" Its your car.. make it different!
01-25-2008, 06:03 AM
#33
Originally Posted by ruffellprefley
wrx'll get you some nice torque
01-30-2008, 04:43 PM
#35
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[/QUOTE]It will always come down to this, but if you like the TSX and you care about performance, why oh why would you get an autotragic and complain about it's lack of performance after the fact? [/QUOTE]
I couldn't agree more. I see it time and time again all these people with autos wanting a faster car. I will never buy a sports sedan with an auto, if I can't find one, I don't buy one. Besides Driving a stick is sooo much fun. Anyways go with the I/H/Cat/underdrive pulleys, and light weight wheels even though you can't reflash you still free up some extra ponies and ft/lbs. I wish I had money to do stuff like this, stupid school.
[/QUOTE]I couldn't agree more. I see it time and time again all these people with autos wanting a faster car. I will never buy a sports sedan with an auto, if I can't find one, I don't buy one. Besides Driving a stick is sooo much fun. Anyways go with the I/H/Cat/underdrive pulleys, and light weight wheels even though you can't reflash you still free up some extra ponies and ft/lbs. I wish I had money to do stuff like this, stupid school.
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