Hondata Reflash - Instructions on ECU and Immobilizer removal inside
#1
A-spec Arctic Blue
Thread Starter
Hondata Reflash - Instructions on ECU and Immobilizer removal inside
Finally decided to bite the bullet and get the reflash for my 2004 TSX MT/Navi. I shipped it out today and should receive it Wednesday. I purchased the reflash thru ClubRSX for $590. I will post my review later this week.
For all those interested in removing the ECU and immobilizer, here are some instructions.
Tools needed:
Philips screwdriver and 10mm socket
Removing the Immobilizer:
There are 3 screws below the column that should be removed (left, right and center). Next you must release the top portion of the column cover from the bottom portion. The easiest way to seperate the two is to push from the sides starting from the steering column up.
Next you must remove the two wire adapters and the 2 screws holding the immobilizer in place. The back screw is a little harder to reach but if you remove the bottom column cover, it is fairly easy.
Removing the ECU:
First remove the center foot-panels (driver and passenger). The drivers side panel has a screw at the top and a screw/pop connector towards the bottom.
The passenger side only has the screw/pop connector towards the bottom. After removing the screws pop the panels out.
Next remove the AC vents by wiggling them out.
To get to the ECU, you must pull back the carpeting on both sides of the center console.
To remove the ECU, you'll need to use a ratched w/a 10mm socket. There is one bolt on each side of the ECU. On the passenger side, it's easier to remove all the wires before trying to remove the bolt.
Remove the ECU by pulling it out on the passenger side.
Place a key, ECU, immobilizer and waiver form in the box to ship. I made sure to label all my contents just in case they mixed up the key, ECU or immobilizer.
For all those interested in removing the ECU and immobilizer, here are some instructions.
Tools needed:
Philips screwdriver and 10mm socket
Removing the Immobilizer:
There are 3 screws below the column that should be removed (left, right and center). Next you must release the top portion of the column cover from the bottom portion. The easiest way to seperate the two is to push from the sides starting from the steering column up.
Next you must remove the two wire adapters and the 2 screws holding the immobilizer in place. The back screw is a little harder to reach but if you remove the bottom column cover, it is fairly easy.
Removing the ECU:
First remove the center foot-panels (driver and passenger). The drivers side panel has a screw at the top and a screw/pop connector towards the bottom.
The passenger side only has the screw/pop connector towards the bottom. After removing the screws pop the panels out.
Next remove the AC vents by wiggling them out.
To get to the ECU, you must pull back the carpeting on both sides of the center console.
To remove the ECU, you'll need to use a ratched w/a 10mm socket. There is one bolt on each side of the ECU. On the passenger side, it's easier to remove all the wires before trying to remove the bolt.
Remove the ECU by pulling it out on the passenger side.
Place a key, ECU, immobilizer and waiver form in the box to ship. I made sure to label all my contents just in case they mixed up the key, ECU or immobilizer.
#5
A-spec Arctic Blue
Thread Starter
Wow!!!
I just finished reinstalling the ECU and Immobilizer and I'm amazed at the difference the reflash makes. I concur with all the prior reviews from other members/hondata in that the car pulls harder. I definitely tell that there is an increase in torque and horsepower, especially after 4000 RPMs. For all those who have a 2004 this is definitely a must buy mod as it is worth the $590.
I also have the Hondata heatshield, Comptech Icebox, DC Header and Jtso throttle bypass. Thumbs up Hondata!!
I also have the Hondata heatshield, Comptech Icebox, DC Header and Jtso throttle bypass. Thumbs up Hondata!!
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#8
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Join Date: Jun 2004
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For some reason, the only PITA part of that whole thing is the steering column cover. I don't know why it takes me forever to put the bottom half the cover back on. If it wasn't for that, it would take me like 15 to 20 minutes max to swap everything.
#9
Drives With Hands
Originally Posted by NJTSXMan
For some reason, the only PITA part of that whole thing is the steering column cover. I don't know why it takes me forever to put the bottom half the cover back on. If it wasn't for that, it would take me like 15 to 20 minutes max to swap everything.
Actually I'm tempted to just hide my immobilizer under the dash somewhere with my valet key zip-tied inside of it, so I never have to do it again.
#11
Updated ECU removal instructions
This web page has just been posted. Sorry it has taken so long, and thanks for the people who contributed to this thread.
There are about 22 pictures detailing the ECU's removal.
http://www.hondata.com/tsx_ecu_removal.html
It is also available as a 300K PDF.
http://www.hondata.com/downloads/tsx_ecu_removal.pdf
There are about 22 pictures detailing the ECU's removal.
http://www.hondata.com/tsx_ecu_removal.html
It is also available as a 300K PDF.
http://www.hondata.com/downloads/tsx_ecu_removal.pdf
#15
Have camera, will travel
Join Date: Jan 2004
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Originally Posted by rmpage
You think yours is hard, I've got to swing it around my hand controls (which also must be completely removed before the shroud can be unlatched, and then reinstalled and adjusted properly)...
Actually I'm tempted to just hide my immobilizer under the dash somewhere with my valet key zip-tied inside of it, so I never have to do it again.
Actually I'm tempted to just hide my immobilizer under the dash somewhere with my valet key zip-tied inside of it, so I never have to do it again.
#16
Have camera, will travel
Join Date: Jan 2004
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Originally Posted by S14 n Tsx
wait, if i want to get a reflash!! is this mean i cant drive my car for while?? since ECU is gone?
#17
mmmmmm....
Originally Posted by waTSX
Yes, your car will be undriveable while the ECU is out. The good news is that the turnaround is not usually more than three days, assuming you overnight it, of course.
#18
Drives With Hands
Originally Posted by waTSX
rmpage, your controls are really cool. I've never actually seen how those are configured before. How do they work? Pretty seamlessly?
#20
Originally Posted by dingobiatch
arg hondata, why couldn't you have posted that a week earlier?
There was this recent thread that was encouagement for me to get it done:
http://www.acura-tsx.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28858
#28
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Originally Posted by S14 n Tsx
thanks for the reply! I guess I should do it on spring break!! Is it just plug in and plug out?? or have to mess around alittle because I am so bad with elect. I don't know anything about it.
It took me about 45 minutes to get the whole thing out and less time to put it all back. Definitely a worthwhile mod.
#29
Rep'n Taxbrain.com
Join Date: Aug 2004
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Originally Posted by ComptechTSX
does the $595, only include the over night shipping back FROM hondata? or does it include the shipping to Hondata aswell?
#30
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Originally Posted by Tsx536
It should include the shipping there as well. They provide you with a prepaid shipping label.
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2004, acura, ecu, honda, hondata, immobilizer, immobilzer, locate, rdx, reflash, removal, remove, rsx, tsx, turnaround