DIY Front Brake Pad Install - 56k **
09-23-2005, 10:16 PM
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DIY Front Brake Pad Install - 56k **
First of all, I am not a mechanic nor SAE certified. I am far from an expert. I graduated from the Shade Tree Mechanics University and am a card carrying member of the Back Yard Association. Therefore, if you decide to do your brakes, please be very aware of the risks. Your brakes DO stop your car. I take ZERO responsibility for anything that may or might happen from you tackling this DIY. This is not an end all for the install but does give you the basic steps.
Steps
Take off the wheels and secure the car up on Jack Stands. Do not even consider doing this on the jack alone for support.
You will now see the brake assembly.
Remove 2 Bolts Holding on the Caliper. The pictures show the top. The other is easily visible on the bottom of the caliper.
The Caliper will now come off the bracket easily. You will be able to see the brake pads now. Be sure and secure the Caliper and DO NOT let it dangle. Remove the inside and outside pads. You pretty much just pop them off the assembly. Picture is blurry but this process is very easy.
Take a pick or flat head screwdriver and pull down the boot to remove the caliper pins. Degrease the caliper pins and then lubricate them with Silicon Brake Caliper Grease. Then reinstall the pins. The boot should just pop back onto the pin when you insert them back into the boot.
Get our new brake pads out. I used Hawk HPS Pads. Remove the shims from the old brake pads, put some anti seize on them, and snap them on the new pads. Then reinstall the new pads on the caliper bracket.
Using a Brake Piston Tool push the piston back into the caliper. This is extremely easy using the tool and takes no force. I bought mine at Sears for $19.99. They had a cheaper one for $9.99 but it was out of stock.
Put the Caliper back in place and reinstall the bolts
Then Bleed the Brakes. This is also the time to change out the fluid if you choose. I just used OEM Honda Brake Fluid.
How to Bleed Brakes the Right Way
Reinstall your wheels and then pump the brakes a few times to get pedal feel back again. Take the car down off the jack stands and then seat in the new pads. I used this process detailed my moda_Way.
"Seated the pads with this process... 5 mph to stop, 10 mph to stop, 15 mph to stop and so on until I got to 60 mph."
Here is a video that will show you how to change brakes in great detail. This is for an RSX, but the procedure is almost identical for the TSX. Thanks to clubrsx and ephatch for the video. Right Click and Save Target as using the link below.
Video Download
This is thread by moda_way will detail how to swap out rotors. I just stayed with the stock OEM rotors. I have not had problems with warping yet and I am low or cash as well.
Thread
Ok, you now have a DIY, a video reference, and other board threads. If you research all of this you should be able to complete the install fairly easily. However, if you are confused at all, please consult a professional. The install took me about 90 mintues start to finish.
Again, I am not an expert and did this install to the best of my ability and research. If something is glaring wrong, please post it.
Hope this helps someone.
<longest thread by me EVAR>
Steps
Take off the wheels and secure the car up on Jack Stands. Do not even consider doing this on the jack alone for support.
You will now see the brake assembly.
Remove 2 Bolts Holding on the Caliper. The pictures show the top. The other is easily visible on the bottom of the caliper.
The Caliper will now come off the bracket easily. You will be able to see the brake pads now. Be sure and secure the Caliper and DO NOT let it dangle. Remove the inside and outside pads. You pretty much just pop them off the assembly. Picture is blurry but this process is very easy.
Take a pick or flat head screwdriver and pull down the boot to remove the caliper pins. Degrease the caliper pins and then lubricate them with Silicon Brake Caliper Grease. Then reinstall the pins. The boot should just pop back onto the pin when you insert them back into the boot.
Get our new brake pads out. I used Hawk HPS Pads. Remove the shims from the old brake pads, put some anti seize on them, and snap them on the new pads. Then reinstall the new pads on the caliper bracket.
Using a Brake Piston Tool push the piston back into the caliper. This is extremely easy using the tool and takes no force. I bought mine at Sears for $19.99. They had a cheaper one for $9.99 but it was out of stock.
Put the Caliper back in place and reinstall the bolts
Then Bleed the Brakes. This is also the time to change out the fluid if you choose. I just used OEM Honda Brake Fluid.
How to Bleed Brakes the Right Way
Reinstall your wheels and then pump the brakes a few times to get pedal feel back again. Take the car down off the jack stands and then seat in the new pads. I used this process detailed my moda_Way.
"Seated the pads with this process... 5 mph to stop, 10 mph to stop, 15 mph to stop and so on until I got to 60 mph."
Here is a video that will show you how to change brakes in great detail. This is for an RSX, but the procedure is almost identical for the TSX. Thanks to clubrsx and ephatch for the video. Right Click and Save Target as using the link below.
Video Download
This is thread by moda_way will detail how to swap out rotors. I just stayed with the stock OEM rotors. I have not had problems with warping yet and I am low or cash as well.
Thread
Ok, you now have a DIY, a video reference, and other board threads. If you research all of this you should be able to complete the install fairly easily. However, if you are confused at all, please consult a professional. The install took me about 90 mintues start to finish.
Again, I am not an expert and did this install to the best of my ability and research. If something is glaring wrong, please post it.
Hope this helps someone.
<longest thread by me EVAR>
09-23-2005, 10:28 PM
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Here are pics on how to do the rear pads.
Rear Picture
Rear Picture #2
My rear pads lasted 25k until the wear indicators. My fronts still had probably 50% but I changed them anyway.
Rear Picture
Rear Picture #2
My rear pads lasted 25k until the wear indicators. My fronts still had probably 50% but I changed them anyway.
09-24-2005, 12:50 AM
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A few notes from my experiences:
Nothing beats a box end wrench for breaking bolts loose. A ball peen hammer can provide the necessary impact to get things started. Crescent wrenches really shouldn't be used if you can help it, nor should sockets, since they can both round off bolts; the former from inadequate support of the bolt head on only two faces and the latter because you are applying torque several inches to the side of the bolt head, rather than directly in-plane with it.
Very short bungee cords (8" or less) work pretty well to secure the hanging calipers.
A 6" C-clamp works just as well as any brake tool.
Grease the back of the pads and between the shims when they come in nested pairs with your high-temp grease of choice - best if it contains molybdenum disulfide like OEM M77 grease.
Some Hondas have different slider pins for top and bottom, according to the service manuals. My integra specifies this, but they are actually identical. Still, you should pay attention as they're supposed to be colored differently when they DO differ.
Also, using a quality rubber protecting product like gummipflege can help prolong the life of rubber parts such as pin boots, control arm bushings, ball joint seals and the CV boots while you're down there.
Nothing beats a box end wrench for breaking bolts loose. A ball peen hammer can provide the necessary impact to get things started. Crescent wrenches really shouldn't be used if you can help it, nor should sockets, since they can both round off bolts; the former from inadequate support of the bolt head on only two faces and the latter because you are applying torque several inches to the side of the bolt head, rather than directly in-plane with it.
Very short bungee cords (8" or less) work pretty well to secure the hanging calipers.
A 6" C-clamp works just as well as any brake tool.
Grease the back of the pads and between the shims when they come in nested pairs with your high-temp grease of choice - best if it contains molybdenum disulfide like OEM M77 grease.
Some Hondas have different slider pins for top and bottom, according to the service manuals. My integra specifies this, but they are actually identical. Still, you should pay attention as they're supposed to be colored differently when they DO differ.
Also, using a quality rubber protecting product like gummipflege can help prolong the life of rubber parts such as pin boots, control arm bushings, ball joint seals and the CV boots while you're down there.
09-24-2005, 06:17 AM
#4
Race Director
One other thing I would add. Before pushing the brake piston back, open the brake fluid reservoir and monitor its level. If it was topped off before the brake job there's a chance it will overflow during the reseating of the piston (as fluid is pushed back into the system). That would make a real mess in the engine compartment. 
09-25-2005, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by biker
One other thing I would add. Before pushing the brake piston back, open the brake fluid reservoir and monitor its level. If it was topped off before the brake job there's a chance it will overflow during the reseating of the piston (as fluid is pushed back into the system). That would make a real mess in the engine compartment.
Been there, done that. Fortunately, it just slowly leaked down and I wondered what the hell was wrong for a few seconds as I was pushing back the piston. I strongly recommend having a bucket of soapy water and wet and dry rags to clean the grease from your hands, parts, etc., as well as to immediately wash down any brake fluid that might get on the paint
09-27-2005, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Hook
Been there, done that. Fortunately, it just slowly leaked down and I wondered what the hell was wrong for a few seconds as I was pushing back the piston. I strongly recommend having a bucket of soapy water and wet and dry rags to clean the grease from your hands, parts, etc., as well as to immediately wash down any brake fluid that might get on the paint
Also, you can use a C-Clamp to push the piston back but be sure to use the old pad as a buffer plate on the piston.
Good write-up.
09-27-2005, 07:25 AM
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If all you are doing is changing pads and not rotors you don't have to go to the trouble of pulling the caliper off. Remove te bottom bolt on the caliper as drected. Break the top one loose and leave it in. Rotate the Caliper up, swap the pads, push the piston in, swing the caliper back down. I usually only grease the slider pins every other time. I also change pads about every 30,000 miles.
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09-27-2005, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by stealthy
Or you can get some latex/nitrile gloves. That's what I use so I don't get all that grease on me. They're pretty cheap.
Also, you can use a C-Clamp to push the piston back but be sure to use the old pad as a buffer plate on the piston.
Good write-up.
Also, you can use a C-Clamp to push the piston back but be sure to use the old pad as a buffer plate on the piston.
Good write-up.
Latex isn't very good when working with anything that might be a solvent, so it's a bad habit to use them. Personally, I like to be able to "feel" things when I work on them.
Aren't the pistons hollow? I just push them back by placing the jack screw inside the piston and compressing.
08-03-2006, 10:29 PM
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http://www.thefesteringcyforce.com/tsx/tsx-brakes.pdf manuals + torque specs
08-03-2006, 11:00 PM
#15
Originally Posted by Vegito
http://www.thefesteringcyforce.com/tsx/tsx-brakes.pdf manuals + torque specs
08-05-2006, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by hrj_1985
r those copies from service manual? is there any places that sells the booklet?
06-16-2008, 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Vegito
yeah i bought it from http://www.helminc.com/ search for car.. its the acura ones
The TSX instructions are great, but you don't have to take out any brake hose mounting bolts on the front, and the caliper can be pushed back in with a large channel lock pliers.
On the rear, there is one brake hose mounting bolt that needs to come off so the caliper will come loose.
Easy job!
08-14-2009, 12:51 PM
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Looking for front brake pads
Hi,
I have 02 rsx type -s. I dont know which pads I should get. I dont go to the track but I want to get good brakes that would last for longer than stock pads and also has better braking. Regularly I drive around 100 miles a day.
Im looking to get ceramic pads within $100, if any of you have any recommendation on the brand or the model number that would be really helpful.
Thank you.
I have 02 rsx type -s. I dont know which pads I should get. I dont go to the track but I want to get good brakes that would last for longer than stock pads and also has better braking. Regularly I drive around 100 miles a day.
Im looking to get ceramic pads within $100, if any of you have any recommendation on the brand or the model number that would be really helpful.
Thank you.
04-19-2011, 11:10 AM
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Burning Brakes
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