DC Header Review & Install - Temple of Vtec
#82
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Originally Posted by Wolfpack_TSX_22
So I drove it around the apartment for a bit andl no smoke. I then drove it about a mile to the store and layed into it.
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Stupid question about welding: can't somebody just use a welding gun bought at Home Depot and do the fix to the DC header? If that's a negative, then I guess that type of weld will not hold because of the stress and the high temperature of the gas going through the pipe.
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Originally Posted by lilcasino
who has the best price on the dc sports header?
I think someone said excelerate (one of our vendors) has it for 290 shipped. Don't quote me on it though, give him a PM to see. He's located in southern CT, so it should only take 2 days to get it shipped since you are in Maine.
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The DC headers are in
The install took me about 2 1/2 - 3 hours.
10 minutes into the install I sliced my thumb open from a bad weld on the bar for the floor jack I was using.
It was pretty deep but I put a band-aid on it and kept right on going though.
The install was acutally more difficult than I thought it would be. I had some trouble with two of the bolts on Cat. Converter and also the one that connects the OEM header mounting bracket to the engine. What made it hard is was that there was not a lot of room to manuever underneath the car. You are laying on your back and you have to put a lot of force on each bolt to get it off, so you have to get yourself in the perfect postion. If I would have had a lift it would have been a lot easier. I recommend definitely having a breaker bar and some extensions for it. You will definitely need an extension to get to the bolt connecting the header mount bracket to the engine.
One of the problems I ran into was that I tried to get the OEM header out without taking the mounting bracket off of it. I don't recommend trying that
Before the install I was worried the most about the bolts on the exhaust manifold. It turned out that those were actually the easiet to get out. I was able to get 4 of those off from above using an 18" breaker bar. I got the last one on the bottom right from below per JTso's instructions. The O2 sensor was also pretty easy. I removed that using an adjustable wrench and made sure to put anti-seize on the threads before I installed it in the DC header.
I was fortunate because when I turned the ignition on for the first time after the install there was no leaks! I made sure to torque each bolt to the exact spec. mentioned in the Comptech instructions. I found a 3/8" head 12" long torque wrench from the Autozone for $20. It measured from 120-960 inch lbs. so I just converted to ft lbs. by dividing my 12. For Example 25 ft. lbs = 300 in. lbs.
I also made sure to tighten the bolts on the exhaust manifold from the middle alternating outwards. I did the same when connecting the primary and secondary parts of the header. For the bolts on the cat, I followed the tightening sequence shown in the Comptech instructions.
Special thanks to JTso for his install thread and also for answering some of my questions via PM. He really helped out
I went for my first ride and I it seems like the RPMs rise a little faster. This can be felt the most in the higher Rpms...like 4000-7600. I haven't gotten a chance to drive a lot yet, so I'll have to post more info after I've driven for awhile. The real tests will be when I'm mashin' to work next week!
Triz08: I know you're really curious about whether the headers remove the dip when you hit Vtec on the 5AT. It hasn't completely removed the dip at Vtec, but it has reduced it a lot. I could still feel the dip, but it seemed like it wasn't as big of a dip. With VSA off the dip is almost completely gone. I'm gonna have to test this out some more and let you know though.
I'll post some pics too in second. Sorry that the post is so long guys.
The install took me about 2 1/2 - 3 hours.
10 minutes into the install I sliced my thumb open from a bad weld on the bar for the floor jack I was using.
It was pretty deep but I put a band-aid on it and kept right on going though.
The install was acutally more difficult than I thought it would be. I had some trouble with two of the bolts on Cat. Converter and also the one that connects the OEM header mounting bracket to the engine. What made it hard is was that there was not a lot of room to manuever underneath the car. You are laying on your back and you have to put a lot of force on each bolt to get it off, so you have to get yourself in the perfect postion. If I would have had a lift it would have been a lot easier. I recommend definitely having a breaker bar and some extensions for it. You will definitely need an extension to get to the bolt connecting the header mount bracket to the engine.
One of the problems I ran into was that I tried to get the OEM header out without taking the mounting bracket off of it. I don't recommend trying that
Before the install I was worried the most about the bolts on the exhaust manifold. It turned out that those were actually the easiet to get out. I was able to get 4 of those off from above using an 18" breaker bar. I got the last one on the bottom right from below per JTso's instructions. The O2 sensor was also pretty easy. I removed that using an adjustable wrench and made sure to put anti-seize on the threads before I installed it in the DC header.
I was fortunate because when I turned the ignition on for the first time after the install there was no leaks! I made sure to torque each bolt to the exact spec. mentioned in the Comptech instructions. I found a 3/8" head 12" long torque wrench from the Autozone for $20. It measured from 120-960 inch lbs. so I just converted to ft lbs. by dividing my 12. For Example 25 ft. lbs = 300 in. lbs.
I also made sure to tighten the bolts on the exhaust manifold from the middle alternating outwards. I did the same when connecting the primary and secondary parts of the header. For the bolts on the cat, I followed the tightening sequence shown in the Comptech instructions.
Special thanks to JTso for his install thread and also for answering some of my questions via PM. He really helped out
I went for my first ride and I it seems like the RPMs rise a little faster. This can be felt the most in the higher Rpms...like 4000-7600. I haven't gotten a chance to drive a lot yet, so I'll have to post more info after I've driven for awhile. The real tests will be when I'm mashin' to work next week!
Triz08: I know you're really curious about whether the headers remove the dip when you hit Vtec on the 5AT. It hasn't completely removed the dip at Vtec, but it has reduced it a lot. I could still feel the dip, but it seemed like it wasn't as big of a dip. With VSA off the dip is almost completely gone. I'm gonna have to test this out some more and let you know though.
I'll post some pics too in second. Sorry that the post is so long guys.
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The Cliff Notes Version : )
Install Tips:
1) Don't slice your finger open like a jackass right before the install
2) Have Comptech, DC Sports, and JTso's install instructions
3) Have a 3/8" head 12" long torque wrench. $20 Autozone. You might have clearance issues with a longer one.
4) Have a 18" breaker bar, flex joint end, and 1/2" head extensions
5) Wrap up both parts of the header in towels/shirts
6) During removal, make sure the socket is locked flush onto the bolt before you try remove it so that you don't strip the head
7) Torque every bolt to spec
8) Tighten the bolts in the sequence it says in the instructions.
9) An extension was necessary for me to get some bolts off of Cat. My breaker bar and rachets wouldn't clear the OEM flex pipe.
10) Flip the heat shield upside down to get it out, like JTso says.
11) Do not try to take out the header before removing the OEM header mount bracket. The OEM header will ALMOST come out with the bracet still on, but I learned the hard way it wouldn't.
12) Put a 6" extension on the torque wrench to tighten the bolts that connect the primary and secondary header
13) After you tighten everything down. Feel around and make sure there are no gaps. The flanges should all be sitting completely flush with each other once they are tightened.
14) I placed the flatter side of the O-rings face up inside the groves of the DC flanges. Not sure if it's right, but it worked well for me.
Here's the pics
The $20 torque wrench is in the middle in red.
I put way too much wrap on the secondary header. Don't do that. lol..
The inside of the factory Cat.
The bolt on the bottom right of the exhuast manifold is the only one you have to get from below. This is a pic of me torque-ing it though.
The last 3 are the finished pics.
1) Don't slice your finger open like a jackass right before the install
2) Have Comptech, DC Sports, and JTso's install instructions
3) Have a 3/8" head 12" long torque wrench. $20 Autozone. You might have clearance issues with a longer one.
4) Have a 18" breaker bar, flex joint end, and 1/2" head extensions
5) Wrap up both parts of the header in towels/shirts
6) During removal, make sure the socket is locked flush onto the bolt before you try remove it so that you don't strip the head
7) Torque every bolt to spec
8) Tighten the bolts in the sequence it says in the instructions.
9) An extension was necessary for me to get some bolts off of Cat. My breaker bar and rachets wouldn't clear the OEM flex pipe.
10) Flip the heat shield upside down to get it out, like JTso says.
11) Do not try to take out the header before removing the OEM header mount bracket. The OEM header will ALMOST come out with the bracet still on, but I learned the hard way it wouldn't.
12) Put a 6" extension on the torque wrench to tighten the bolts that connect the primary and secondary header
13) After you tighten everything down. Feel around and make sure there are no gaps. The flanges should all be sitting completely flush with each other once they are tightened.
14) I placed the flatter side of the O-rings face up inside the groves of the DC flanges. Not sure if it's right, but it worked well for me.
Here's the pics
The $20 torque wrench is in the middle in red.
I put way too much wrap on the secondary header. Don't do that. lol..
The inside of the factory Cat.
The bolt on the bottom right of the exhuast manifold is the only one you have to get from below. This is a pic of me torque-ing it though.
The last 3 are the finished pics.
#90
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very nice write-up! Thats gonna help me out even more when i go to do this on monday. Pics look good, and that looks like a professional install.
You're deffinately gonna have to get back to me on the performance increase side once you've driven it some more.
You're deffinately gonna have to get back to me on the performance increase side once you've driven it some more.
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Originally Posted by Triz08
very nice write-up! Thats gonna help me out even more when i go to do this on monday. Pics look good, and that looks like a professional install.
You're deffinately gonna have to get back to me on the performance increase side once you've driven it some more.
You're deffinately gonna have to get back to me on the performance increase side once you've driven it some more.
I just PM'ed you back BTW.
Originally Posted by JTso
Congrats on the installation.
Without your installation thread, I probably wouldn't have had the ballz to do it myself. The tips you mention in your install thread were important. They definitely saved me some time and trouble.
#93
according too...
http://www.drivewire.com/performance...stheaders.html
there are two different types... stainless steal and ceramic coat? what are difference?
and wheres the cheapest u guys have found to buy these headers?
http://www.drivewire.com/performance...stheaders.html
there are two different types... stainless steal and ceramic coat? what are difference?
and wheres the cheapest u guys have found to buy these headers?
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Originally Posted by Triz08
very nice write-up! Thats gonna help me out even more when i go to do this on monday. Pics look good, and that looks like a professional install.
You're deffinately gonna have to get back to me on the performance increase side once you've driven it some more.
You're deffinately gonna have to get back to me on the performance increase side once you've driven it some more.
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Well, i just got finshed removing all the stock components. Took me about an hour, and got pretty cut up just like i always do when i work on my cars. Some bolts were a pretty tight fit, and seeing that i haave no breaker bar, some bolts were pretty tough to get off with a normal wratchet. Now im just waiting for UPS to arrive with my header so i can get my car back into commision =)
now with my luck it wont come until tomorrow or wednesday so ill to just keep my car sitting in the garage without be able to move it.
now with my luck it wont come until tomorrow or wednesday so ill to just keep my car sitting in the garage without be able to move it.
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Originally Posted by Triz08
Well, i just got finshed removing all the stock components. Took me about an hour, and got pretty cut up just like i always do when i work on my cars. Some bolts were a pretty tight fit, and seeing that i haave no breaker bar, some bolts were pretty tough to get off with a normal wratchet. Now im just waiting for UPS to arrive with my header so i can get my car back into commision =)
now with my luck it wont come until tomorrow or wednesday so ill to just keep my car sitting in the garage without be able to move it.
now with my luck it wont come until tomorrow or wednesday so ill to just keep my car sitting in the garage without be able to move it.
You're half way there man...Git her done!
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Originally Posted by Triz08
Well, i just got finshed removing all the stock components. Took me about an hour, and got pretty cut up just like i always do when i work on my cars. Some bolts were a pretty tight fit, and seeing that i haave no breaker bar, some bolts were pretty tough to get off with a normal wratchet. Now im just waiting for UPS to arrive with my header so i can get my car back into commision =)
now with my luck it wont come until tomorrow or wednesday so ill to just keep my car sitting in the garage without be able to move it.
now with my luck it wont come until tomorrow or wednesday so ill to just keep my car sitting in the garage without be able to move it.
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Man, I feel you on the cuts. I'm looking at my poor bandaged pinky right now And getting the old header off was the shitty part, putting the new one on took about 1/3 the time so your home free assuming you don't need to have it welded. I have my fingers crossed for you.
The car definately feels a little faster and revs a lot quicker. All a really need now is to get my hondata reflash and then I'm going to get a dyno done.
The only thing now is that I'm super paranoid about a leak the header. When I drive I hear a little "whoosing" sound that I never noticed before when I'm accelerating. So I find myself checking under the hood everytime I drive somewhere trying to catch my ghost leak in action. I know its silly but I'm afraid somethings gonna be wrong and I'd be pissed at myself if I mess something up on my car. I might just end up running over to a muffler shop one afternoon and seeing if they can test for a leak while its on a lift.
So other than making myself a tad delusional, I absolutely love my headers. My roomate just bought a 2003 subaru WRX Wagon about a month ago and I've been dying to get a chance to run with him especially now that I have the heaers one. But damn, that car is quick whenever that turbo spools. Funny thing is that he's been helping me with all my mods and now he's been bitten with the mod bug and wants to change up his UP and DP on the scoobie.
The car definately feels a little faster and revs a lot quicker. All a really need now is to get my hondata reflash and then I'm going to get a dyno done.
The only thing now is that I'm super paranoid about a leak the header. When I drive I hear a little "whoosing" sound that I never noticed before when I'm accelerating. So I find myself checking under the hood everytime I drive somewhere trying to catch my ghost leak in action. I know its silly but I'm afraid somethings gonna be wrong and I'd be pissed at myself if I mess something up on my car. I might just end up running over to a muffler shop one afternoon and seeing if they can test for a leak while its on a lift.
So other than making myself a tad delusional, I absolutely love my headers. My roomate just bought a 2003 subaru WRX Wagon about a month ago and I've been dying to get a chance to run with him especially now that I have the heaers one. But damn, that car is quick whenever that turbo spools. Funny thing is that he's been helping me with all my mods and now he's been bitten with the mod bug and wants to change up his UP and DP on the scoobie.
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Originally Posted by Tsx536
Shit, just thought about it. What if they headers you get today are not the fixed version? Were you planning to get them welded before you install them?
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WolfPack: I've heard the wooshing sound you're talking about. Mine makes that too. I had some friends help me double check for leaks and everything is fine. So don't be paranoid. In talking to people, what I've heard is if there was a leak I would smell it and definitely be able to hear it. Basically, if you have a leak, you would know it!
Triz: Sounds like a plan man. I wasn't sure if you had another car. When I did my install. I didn't have another car that I could use to run out and get stuff, that's why I tried so hard to make sure I had absolutely everything I needed.
When you get your headers, could you take some pics of the repaired area?
I'd be interested to see what it looks like and I bet other members would too.
Triz: Sounds like a plan man. I wasn't sure if you had another car. When I did my install. I didn't have another car that I could use to run out and get stuff, that's why I tried so hard to make sure I had absolutely everything I needed.
When you get your headers, could you take some pics of the repaired area?
I'd be interested to see what it looks like and I bet other members would too.
#103
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Originally Posted by Triz08
Yeah, i didnt get them today, so car will be out until the header arrives tomorrow. If its the old version, ill just take my parents car up to a muffler shop, should be a quick job. Excelerate said his supplier got these from DC only a few months ago, so they should be the updated version. Well, i will see. I got bored from waiting on UPS, so i just ran up to Lowes and pick an elbow fitting, and did the TB bypass mod. It got kinda messy with coolant fluid everywhere. But hey, another mod to add to the list
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Well, i FINALLY recieved my header today in the mail, and the first thing i notice is the box dates back to 10/04. I open up the box and first thing i notice is black marks on the 2-1 peice, and a few niks on the 4-2 peice. And of course these are not the updated version of the weld, so im going to have to wait another day carless, because all the muffler shops are closed to get the fucking weld done. All i can say now is Excelerate =
I now do not reccomend ordering through Excelerate anymore. Find another dealer...
I now do not reccomend ordering through Excelerate anymore. Find another dealer...
#108
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Damn that sucks sorry to hear about that. I was about to order from Excelerate but I found a local dealer here in Los Angeles (SRT Motorsports) that were selling the DC sports 4-2-1 TSX header for the same price so I bought it from them and they actually drove down the AEM/DC's warehouse in Torrance (they're located in Anaheim) at rush hour to pick up my headers directly from AEM/DC. I picked it up at their shop the same day I ordered, great service from them they also had a kick ass EVO on display at their shop.
http://www.srtmotorsports.com/
http://www.srtmotorsports.com/
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Originally Posted by drkangel348
Damn that sucks sorry to hear about that. I was about to order from Excelerate but I found a local dealer here in Los Angeles (SRT Motorsports) that were selling the DC sports 4-2-1 TSX header for the same price so I bought it from them and they actually drove down the AEM/DC's warehouse in Torrance (they're located in Anaheim) at rush hour to pick up my headers directly from AEM/DC. I picked it up at their shop the same day I ordered, great service from them they also had a kick ass EVO on display at their shop.
http://www.srtmotorsports.com/
http://www.srtmotorsports.com/
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Originally Posted by Triz08
Well, i FINALLY recieved my header today in the mail, and the first thing i notice is the box dates back to 10/04. I open up the box and first thing i notice is black marks on the 2-1 peice, and a few niks on the 4-2 peice. And of course these are not the updated version of the weld, so im going to have to wait another day carless, because all the muffler shops are closed to get the fucking weld done. All i can say now is Excelerate =
I now do not reccomend ordering through Excelerate anymore. Find another dealer...
I now do not reccomend ordering through Excelerate anymore. Find another dealer...
As for the black marks, my header had that too. That's how a lot of the headers come I guess. If you look closely at TOV's pictures their header has some marks too.
I guess that's how DC's quality is . IMO, they could have easily made the quality of the header much better without spending very much extra money.
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I have the black marks on mine too. I just figure it's something that happens in the manufacturing process.
Update: My car is running smooth as butter. I love having the headers. I give them 2 thumbs up for a mod to do.
Update: My car is running smooth as butter. I love having the headers. I give them 2 thumbs up for a mod to do.
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Well i couldnt help myself but put the header on with the shitty weld job. So i installed, and it went on fairly easy, hardest part for me was geting the studs from the cat to get through the holes on the 2-1 peice for enough, was a pita. First thing i noticed when i started up my car was the smell. I had a ceramic header on my last car so i realized it was just the ceramic coat. When backing out, the idle was a little jumpy, but it seemed the ecu learned the new settings quickly and didnt notice it again. I am really pleased with the performance gains i felt. Alot more pull throughout the each gear especially in high rpms. Like others said, the dip in vtec with hondata is still slighty there but much improved. Its very easy to notice that my car is quicker now.
One thing i want to ask you other dc header users is if you noticed a kind of swooshing sound in acceleration??? I cant really describe it, but i can notice a somewhat of a sound change. How does one check for exhuast leaks???
So tomorrow im going to have to remove the 2-1 peice and take it to meikeke to get the weld fixed. I enjoy working on my car so it wont be too big of an ordeal, id like to tighten up the bolts some more anyways to make sure i dont have any leaks.
One thing i want to ask you other dc header users is if you noticed a kind of swooshing sound in acceleration??? I cant really describe it, but i can notice a somewhat of a sound change. How does one check for exhuast leaks???
So tomorrow im going to have to remove the 2-1 peice and take it to meikeke to get the weld fixed. I enjoy working on my car so it wont be too big of an ordeal, id like to tighten up the bolts some more anyways to make sure i dont have any leaks.
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Originally Posted by Stokeless_TSX
Wow like that Triz??? Sucks man I am sorry to hear that.
So, a few of my friends were going to the track tonight, so i had to miss out on that. I originally thought id have the header in by monday so i could get some time slips in tonight to test it out. its just 1,000 things went wrong it felt like, and just got me angry.
I feel a little better knowing that others had black marks on thiers too, but i asked excelerate before i placed my order if the header had the updated weld and he said his supplier just recieved these a couple months ago. Then when i get the box today it shows it dated back from 10/04.
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Originally Posted by Triz08
Well i couldnt help myself but put the header on with the shitty weld job. So i installed, and it went on fairly easy, hardest part for me was geting the studs from the cat to get through the holes on the 2-1 peice for enough, was a pita. First thing i noticed when i started up my car was the smell. I had a ceramic header on my last car so i realized it was just the ceramic coat. When backing out, the idle was a little jumpy, but it seemed the ecu learned the new settings quickly and didnt notice it again. I am really pleased with the performance gains i felt. Alot more pull throughout the each gear especially in high rpms. Like others said, the dip in vtec with hondata is still slighty there but much improved. Its very easy to notice that my car is quicker now.
One thing i want to ask you other dc header users is if you noticed a kind of swooshing sound in acceleration??? I cant really describe it, but i can notice a somewhat of a sound change. How does one check for exhuast leaks???
So tomorrow im going to have to remove the 2-1 peice and take it to meikeke to get the weld fixed. I enjoy working on my car so it wont be too big of an ordeal, id like to tighten up the bolts some more anyways to make sure i dont have any leaks.
One thing i want to ask you other dc header users is if you noticed a kind of swooshing sound in acceleration??? I cant really describe it, but i can notice a somewhat of a sound change. How does one check for exhuast leaks???
So tomorrow im going to have to remove the 2-1 peice and take it to meikeke to get the weld fixed. I enjoy working on my car so it wont be too big of an ordeal, id like to tighten up the bolts some more anyways to make sure i dont have any leaks.
Triz, turn off your VSA and then check it out. In first gear, with VSA off, that dip is very close to gone. For everyone else, this is in a 5AT auto only, the 6MT Hondata users have not reported a dip at Vtec. Just an FYI.
The wooshing sound appears to be normal. Both Wolfpack and I have heard it, and we were both also worried about leaks. Seems like everything is OK though. Hope the uninstall/install tomorrow goes well. You should just get one of the loaner torque wrenches from Autozone, so that you don't have to worry about over/under tightening the bolts. If you end up doing that keep in mind you'll need a 6" extension with a 1/2" head in order to property torque up the bolts that connect the primary and secondary parts of the header.
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Originally Posted by Tsx536
lol....I knew it would be tough to resist, especially since you had already taken off the OEM header.
Triz, turn off your VSA and then check it out. In first gear, with VSA off, that dip is very close to gone. For everyone else, this is in a 5AT auto only, the 6MT Hondata users have not reported a dip at Vtec. Just an FYI.
The wooshing sound appears to be normal. Both Wolfpack and I have heard it, and we were both also worried about leaks. Seems like everything is OK though. Hope the uninstall/install tomorrow goes well. You should just get one of the loaner torque wrenches from Autozone, so that you don't have to worry about over/under tightening the bolts. If you end up doing that keep in mind you'll need a 6" extension with a 1/2" head in order to property torque up the bolts that connect the primary and secondary parts of the header.
Triz, turn off your VSA and then check it out. In first gear, with VSA off, that dip is very close to gone. For everyone else, this is in a 5AT auto only, the 6MT Hondata users have not reported a dip at Vtec. Just an FYI.
The wooshing sound appears to be normal. Both Wolfpack and I have heard it, and we were both also worried about leaks. Seems like everything is OK though. Hope the uninstall/install tomorrow goes well. You should just get one of the loaner torque wrenches from Autozone, so that you don't have to worry about over/under tightening the bolts. If you end up doing that keep in mind you'll need a 6" extension with a 1/2" head in order to property torque up the bolts that connect the primary and secondary parts of the header.
Im also glad to hear that the swooshing sound is normal. Its not that i dont like it, it just scared me at first. I'll let you know how the work goes tomorrow.
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Originally Posted by Triz08
I got up to 80 mph at the end of 2nd gear!!!
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Originally Posted by xizor
this an AT right? The header shouldn't change the speed you're going in a gear, that's tied to revs and gearing, neither of which a header changes.
I actually just got back from testing out my car for the last hour on my way home tonight so im very pleased with the results. Cant wait to test her at the track again.
#119
Originally Posted by Triz08
First thing i noticed when i started up my car was the smell. I had a ceramic header on my last car so i realized it was just the ceramic coat.
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Originally Posted by AJ14
huh? does this smell go away?