icaushavoc

Just curious.

TSX 3Pedal

I use Mobil 1 Synthetic

gc3

Me too. The service manager said it was okay beginning with my second oil change (about 10.5K miles). I did a change with non-synthetic at about 5500 miles.

JaTe

started using mobil 1 synthetic on my first oil change at 4000 miles.

slo007

Too expensive; maybe later.

fdl

I'm curious about this myself. Unfortunately most people who dont use or care about synthetic probably wont view this post.


I dont use synthetic, but I am thinking about it.

leftride

iTrader: (1)

slo, i dont think its too much of a difference, with syn i have gone from every 3k to every 5k, just something to consider (i also change my own oil, so i am basing my opinion off that)

leftride

iTrader: (1)

oh and i use mobile 1 syn as well

tsXgtp

I use it.
If you do the changes yourself it can be very affordable. $20-25.
You can easily get by with 2 oil changes a year (fall, spring; 10-12k miles\year)

masmole

Been using Mobil 1 on all cars since I bought my first in 99.

Exception: leased cars. Never leased but I don't think I'd bother on a leased car if I ever lease one.

iamhomin

I hate to thread jack, but what exactly is the BIGGEST difference in terms of quality differences besides the longevity and "richness"?

amurobo

I don't understand as well. The body shop I went to told me that Syn is good only if you are "constantly" doing high rpm; for normal driving, normal engine oil is more than enough. I use Castrol GTX (well, that's what the body shop recommand...), my dad's 92 Accord has 530,000km on it and it has been using only Castrol GTX and it is still running extremely smooth...

I'm not against and I don't mind having it, but I am not sure if I can really get the benefits out of it.

zircon

I use M1. I used to do 5000km changes, now do 10,000km changes to balance costs

-less thermal breakdown in viscosity at high temp
- no rise in viscosity at very low temp
- no foaming/coking = deposits
- longevity is much better
- no engine part wear

watch out for 'fake' synthetics (Castrol, Valvoline etc). They are just highly purified and refined petroleum oils. M1, royal purple, AMSOIL etc use Polyalphaolephin (PAO) as the magic ingredient.

masmole

Exactly as Zircon said... no coking and deposits. This is very important for high performance engines, high revving, high-heat applications, especially forced induction (superchargerged/turbocharged), race/competition cars or cars you drive as if you're in a competetion. I used to have an A4 1.8T and chipped, the turbos were running at higher rpms to produce higher boost... when you shut the engine off, oil that is in the vicinity of the super-hot turbochargers that has stagnated in the lines/plumbing will "burn" or coke-up and leave deposits that will increase friction and ultimately clog the lines resulting in no oil flow for the turbochargers and can be catastrophic. This resulted in one blown turbo for me and I have since learned that most turbocharged cars need to idle to cool down before shut off. Exception: some cars have after-run pumps that will continually pump oil through the system even after shutting off the engine to prevent coking. Synthetics are much much more resistant to the coking and "burning". Synthetics have an extremely high tolerance for thermal breakdown. These favorable thermal properties also allow synthetic oils reach normal running temperature faster and thus are more ready to do their job of effectively lubricating engine parts sooner after a cold start. So while synthetics are good when things heat up, they are also great when things are cold.

How many cold starts does your engine endure in its lifetime? Enough said.

slo007

Oil place wanted $30 more for synthetic ($65 + tax). I thought it was a bit steep for something that will be gone in 5K.

I always have it changed every 5K anyways. My miles are 90% freeway, so I think it's okay.

I'm also taking care of a '96 4Runner, and it has 95,500 miles. I think regular oil is fine for my current driving conditions.

ClutchPerformer

The biggest difference: dino oil was not created to lubricate engines (it just happened that someone discovered that it worked pretty well). Synthetic motor oil is designed for this purpose. So synthetic oils can do the job better. Make sense?

Edit: I use Mobil 1 starting at 10k miles. If you find it's too expensive at oil change places/dealers, go to Wal-Mart and buy 5 quarts for ~20 bucks.

dom

Mobil 1 Synthetic.

$28.74 CAD for 4.4L at WalMart. Acura only carries Castrol Synthec.

forestsoft

Amsoil 0-30...

CGTSX2004

iTrader: (1)

Leased car = no synthetic. I take care of my car, but why spend money where it's not needed.

TSX 'R' US

Hmmm...very interesting.. Last time I went for an oil change I asked my service guy about switching to synthetic.. He told me they don't have a synthetic oil for the TSX yet
I called him BS on that one..

kurt_bradley

I stick to the Honda oil. The only real difference I've seen with using Mobil 1 is the life of the oil itself. That is about it. I have tested going both ways on the oil, and I stick to Honda. I've tried it out on all of my Hondas. Mobil makes our oil for us. For a conventional oil, you can't beat that stuff (especially for the price).

danatsonoma

______________
Ola, pure synthetic may be cheaper because oil change intervals are three times as long. If you take your car to a mechanic's shop or, heaven forbid, to one of those quick oil change places, you'll be paying up to $35 for an oil change good for 3000 miles.

Now, go to Costco and buy yourself a case of Mobil 1 synthetic for $24.99 and it will last you a whole year. Do the arithmetic, amigo.

BTW, I thought those pics of Half Dome (shown in your website) were absolutely fabulous! They deserve to grace the pages of National Geographic magazine.

danatsonoma

________________
You've said a mouthful. All questions answered.

CL9-R

Using Motul 8100 5w40 for winter and some summer usage.
ANd for lapping day/track.. Motul 300v 15w50 mostly for long period of time..

timf

We put over 275,000 miles on an Accord using regular oil. Changed every 3-5K miles never had a problem, and ran great. I use synthetic in a dirt bike that runs at much higher RPMS and temp.. Under this abuse, the motor runs cooler with synthetic. In either case, it is important to change the oil regularly. I'd say, if you drive it hard, the synthetic gives you more of an advantage. If not, dino oil will still give you good results.

MarkPinTx

Can I take M1 to dealership? Will they take it home with em?

And masmole, you should post that on every turbo thread on the board. I just cannot believe a/m turbo is a good idea for any car.

CGTSX2004

iTrader: (1)

Wow...that's excellent to hear. Thanks again, kurt

TSX 'R' US

I'll probably just stick with regular oil as well...

masmole

Yes. You can bring the dealership service department Mobil 1 and they will put it in for you. However, don't expect them to discount you on the service bill just because you supplied the oil. They will still charge you the same price as if they supplied the oil. If you don't trust them, ask for the empty containers back, or better yet, be a crazy stalker OCD type and watch them change your oil

DjElucid

I'm about to do my 15k mile oil change tomorrow and I bought regular vavoline oil. I guess I will be going back to walmart tomorrow to get me a 5 qt container of synthetic oil.

For those running it, do you feel any difference in power or is the engine just smoother?

gogozy

GC Syntec Ow-30, but thinking of switch to M1. the dealer put in 5w-20 for me and assure me no problem, i took it out at 3500km when i found M1 spec 5W-30 for TSX.. did you feel any differences after using M1?
btw, a service advisor told me Honda switch oil from M1 to Castrol last year, not sure if this is true.

kurt_bradley

Not exactly true. If you take your own oil to a dealer to have it changed, they'll just deduct the difference of the oil. Or at least we do. You just pay $10.50 less (that's what the 5 quarts of oil costs).

masmole

Not any of the 3 local Chicago dealers I've called unfortunately. But I guess YMMV...

TSX 'R' US

Hmmm...the service guy at Woodfield Acura told me they won't charge for the oil if I bring it in myself..

gogozy

if they charge me then i will ask them to give me the "un-used" Honda oil. or subsitute it for ATF or some sort...

blackjackman

Milage is close to 5k. I am not sure if I should go synthetic.
Called a dealer and service guy said Honda recommends AGAINST Synthetic.
I think that's BS.

Now is it a standard for Acura dealer to use genuine Honda oil ?

(funny to see a NSX coming out of "Express Lube" the other day)

vwong

Look for another dealer (if any). I've been to 3 different Acura dealers and 2 different Honda dealers, they all deducted the cost of the oil from the bill.

corbs

Probably going with Amsoil 5w-30. It fits well w/the Acura Recommended oil change interval of 10,000 miles. Yes, that's right, the owners manual says 10,000 miles/1 yr. under "normal" conditions.

Also found this from the Acura Owner's site:

Why should I wait to change the oil the first time?
Your Acura engine was delivered with an oil that is specially formulated for new engines that have not yet developed their "natural" wear patterns and may contain minute particles from the manufacturing process.


American Honda strongly recommends this special oil be left in the engine long enough for these wear patterns to develop, usually until the first maintenance interval specified in your Owner's Manual, based on your specific driving conditions.


How often should I change my oil after the first service?
Refer to your owner's manual for the recommended service intervals. Separate maintenance schedules are listed for "normal service" and "severe service." Read the description of severe service carefully. Most vehicles will fall under the normal service category. Note that the service intervals are listed by time in addition to distance. Your oil should be changed at whichever interval, time or distance, occurs first.


There is absolutely no benefit in changing your oil more frequently than recommended in your owner's manual. This will only increase your cost of ownership, and create an unnecessary burden upon the environment by increasing the amount of disposed oil.


Do not exceed the recommended maintenance interval. Oil eventually deteriorates and loses its ability to protect your engine, due to heat, friction, and exposure to exhaust components. Engine oil contains special additives to enhance the oil's performance, and these additives are also broken down or consumed with distance and time. Engine damage can occur if the proper maintenance schedule is not followed.

underhill

OK, the manual states 5W30. I just had the type C service done. The invoice states "5W20 semi synthetic oil all except RSX-S which uses 5W30"
WTF?
I'll be phoning next week.

heyitsme

I used to be into the mobil 1 phaze, all cause its cleaner, more performance, bla bla, but after using it, I found it got dirtier quicker, there was no performance benefit and it did have the same burn off. Then I went to castrol gtx, which I use now. Oh and I have a 91' SE'R, engine runs smooth as silk. No leaking or burn off with the
GTX.