FAQ & Instructions: Aux Audio Adapter - From Selection to Completion
#81
Yeah - I saw that on the FAQ that you had to crank up the volume. But, it sounds like once you do, the sound quality is rich and full, like a CD?
That certainly was not the case with my Palm Pilot; I'm just hoping for an improvement with an iPod.
Again, thanks for the help!
That certainly was not the case with my Palm Pilot; I'm just hoping for an improvement with an iPod.
Again, thanks for the help!
#82
Not as loud as CD and Wierd Glitch?!?
My iPod is definately not as loud as the CD player. The only time it really matters though is when you driving down the highway with the windows down going in excess of 80....
On an unrelated/related note
I started my car up today and the CDC was not available. I switched modes using the CD/AUX button and Mode on the Steering wheel and it was not switching over. I then shut the car down and started it back up again and the CD/Aux setting was available again (Phewww)
This is the first time I have seen this and hopefully the last.. Anyone Else? I am using SHOND3
-Jeff
Carbon Grey Navi
On an unrelated/related note
I started my car up today and the CDC was not available. I switched modes using the CD/AUX button and Mode on the Steering wheel and it was not switching over. I then shut the car down and started it back up again and the CD/Aux setting was available again (Phewww)
This is the first time I have seen this and hopefully the last.. Anyone Else? I am using SHOND3
-Jeff
Carbon Grey Navi
#83
Thanks! Got it working!
Hey all,
Just wanted to say "Thanks" to all you guys for providing these details instructions and images. I installed my setup today and it works like a champ. It took me about an hour for the entire setup, mostly because I wanted to do a clean/proper job to eliminate errors. I'm a bit anal also, which added 10 more minutes to the entire process
I found a nice dealer at PA (West Chester Honda) where I bought the Accord adaptor (P/N 08A31-0E1-010) for $25.00. Standard shipping costs are about $2-$3 dollars within US they said.
West Chester Honda: (610) 692-6003
West Chester Honda Link
I'm excited to put my new CreativeLabs Zen to the test, which will be arriving about 2 days... woohooo!
Again, thanks guys!
Just wanted to say "Thanks" to all you guys for providing these details instructions and images. I installed my setup today and it works like a champ. It took me about an hour for the entire setup, mostly because I wanted to do a clean/proper job to eliminate errors. I'm a bit anal also, which added 10 more minutes to the entire process
I found a nice dealer at PA (West Chester Honda) where I bought the Accord adaptor (P/N 08A31-0E1-010) for $25.00. Standard shipping costs are about $2-$3 dollars within US they said.
West Chester Honda: (610) 692-6003
West Chester Honda Link
I'm excited to put my new CreativeLabs Zen to the test, which will be arriving about 2 days... woohooo!
Again, thanks guys!
#85
Don't listen to me.
Originally posted by schalliol
Awesome! Have fun! I know I will with my iPod on Friday when I start to drive 2400 mi. in 3.5 days.
Awesome! Have fun! I know I will with my iPod on Friday when I start to drive 2400 mi. in 3.5 days.
#86
Former Audio Mod
Thread Starter
Hehe, yeah, it is one. I'm heading to Indiana where we're hopefully going to buy a house. I'll be leaving the TSX with my parents :'( and then we'll drive my wife's car out and the biggest moving truck they'll let me drive in June. Transporting a car is like $1000 (crazy). This will be a fun roadtrip too. I'll actually drive 50% of the miles I have on the car in those few days!
#88
Former Audio Mod
Thread Starter
Hard to be a good CFO when 2400 miles separates you and your company. Also, our families are between Chicago and Southern KY via I-65 (we never have real vacations normally, just going to see family). We also like the area, the seasons and that the cheapest house available is not a $500,000 house that's old, crappy and literally backs up to the freeway.
#89
Re: Thanks! Got it working!
Originally posted by TSXChef
I found a nice dealer at PA (West Chester Honda) where I bought the Accord adaptor (P/N 08A31-0E1-010) for $25.00. Standard shipping costs are about $2-$3 dollars within US they said.
I found a nice dealer at PA (West Chester Honda) where I bought the Accord adaptor (P/N 08A31-0E1-010) for $25.00. Standard shipping costs are about $2-$3 dollars within US they said.
I found another dealer in the area selling for $42, but no one seems to have it in stock around here.
#90
Don't listen to me.
Re: Thanks! Got it working!
Originally posted by mistered21
I found another dealer in the area selling for $42, but no one seems to have it in stock around here.
I found another dealer in the area selling for $42, but no one seems to have it in stock around here.
Originally posted by TSXChef
I found a nice dealer at PA (West Chester Honda) where I bought the Accord adaptor (P/N 08A31-0E1-010) for $25.00. Standard shipping costs are about $2-$3 dollars within US they said.
West Chester Honda: (610) 692-6003
West Chester Honda Link
I'm excited to put my new CreativeLabs Zen to the test, which will be arriving about 2 days... woohooo!
Again, thanks guys!
I found a nice dealer at PA (West Chester Honda) where I bought the Accord adaptor (P/N 08A31-0E1-010) for $25.00. Standard shipping costs are about $2-$3 dollars within US they said.
West Chester Honda: (610) 692-6003
West Chester Honda Link
I'm excited to put my new CreativeLabs Zen to the test, which will be arriving about 2 days... woohooo!
Again, thanks guys!
#91
Don't listen to me.
Originally posted by schalliol
We also like the area, the seasons and that the cheapest house available is not a $500,000 house that's old, crappy and literally backs up to the freeway.
We also like the area, the seasons and that the cheapest house available is not a $500,000 house that's old, crappy and literally backs up to the freeway.
#92
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hey, im in phoenix right now, live in canada tho. i tried to pick a snhond3 today from a listed dealer but the guys said they sell 2 a year so they stopped ordering them. does anyone know where i could pick one up in scotsdale without waiting for a store to order it in?
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
#93
Former Audio Mod
Thread Starter
Thanks Ortiz, that's very nice, but I'll have to take the P.T. Cruiser (w/ flames), since mine should be garaged in Indiana until we can move. (we're flying back).
#94
ipod in 04 Accord using cassette plug?
Greetings,
I have an 04 accord W/6 disk in dash changer, XM, w/o nav. I would like to add my ipod to the sound system. Since honda offers a cassette player for this car, I would expect there is an unused connector behind the radio that contains power and audio inputs that could be tapped for the ipod. Am I missing something?
TIA,
Gary
I have an 04 accord W/6 disk in dash changer, XM, w/o nav. I would like to add my ipod to the sound system. Since honda offers a cassette player for this car, I would expect there is an unused connector behind the radio that contains power and audio inputs that could be tapped for the ipod. Am I missing something?
TIA,
Gary
#95
Don't listen to me.
Re: ipod in 04 Accord using cassette plug?
Originally posted by ross4
Am I missing something?
Am I missing something?
And no you can just buy an stereo shop wiring harness and plug in wires. The head unit has to be tricked into thinking an OEM type device is pluged into it. The SNHOND03 adapter creates the illusion that a factory cd changer is pluged in. Hense the "CD-C" displayed when it is pluged in.
If you just try to find the four speaker inputs, the head unit will not switch to the AUX device when you push the AUX button.
#98
Don't listen to me.
Originally posted by RMan1971
Great post! What happens if you have satellite radio installed. Does that need to be disconnected? Or can the Aux adapter and satellite live harmoniously together?
Great post! What happens if you have satellite radio installed. Does that need to be disconnected? Or can the Aux adapter and satellite live harmoniously together?
#99
Removing the storage bin
I don't believe I saw this posted here, but this is an alternative way of removing the bin:
Remove the pad from inside the storage bin. You'll see two holes at the bottom of the bin. Insert a hook tool (you can get one Lowe's/Home Depot/any home improvement store) into one of the holes and gently tug until you hear it click. Do the same for the second hole. Then just pull it out. It was easier for me to
do this then to use my hands. I couldn't get an appropriate
grip.
The idea came from the instructions for the panavise bracket.
Remove the pad from inside the storage bin. You'll see two holes at the bottom of the bin. Insert a hook tool (you can get one Lowe's/Home Depot/any home improvement store) into one of the holes and gently tug until you hear it click. Do the same for the second hole. Then just pull it out. It was easier for me to
do this then to use my hands. I couldn't get an appropriate
grip.
The idea came from the instructions for the panavise bracket.
#101
Don't listen to me.
Re: Removing the storage bin
Originally posted by Arcaileus
Remove the pad from inside the storage bin. You'll see two holes at the bottom of the bin. Insert a hook tool into one of the holes and gently tug until you hear it click. Do the same for the second hole. Then just pull it out.
Remove the pad from inside the storage bin. You'll see two holes at the bottom of the bin. Insert a hook tool into one of the holes and gently tug until you hear it click. Do the same for the second hole. Then just pull it out.
#102
Advanced
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Maybe this is been post somewhere but I found this Ipod installation on the web: http://members.aol.com/hillstones/private/ipod.html
Does anybody know if it works on the European Accord (TSX)?
Where can I buy the device in Europe?
They don't ship outside US/CA.
Thanks for any help.
Mike
Does anybody know if it works on the European Accord (TSX)?
Where can I buy the device in Europe?
They don't ship outside US/CA.
Thanks for any help.
Mike
#103
Advanced
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Got a little bit further and found the European distribiter:
http://www.soundlinx.co.uk/
But they only have the 01 version instead of the 03.
I've sent a request for the 03 version and will let you (Euro) guys know if this is available.
Again we are missing the boat.....
http://www.soundlinx.co.uk/
But they only have the 01 version instead of the 03.
I've sent a request for the 03 version and will let you (Euro) guys know if this is available.
Again we are missing the boat.....
#104
I have not seen anyone give any comment on the OEM auxiliary kit? I have seen it in my TSX brochure, and it is used when installing cassette player or MP3 player. Anyone know anything about it?
Also, what about something like THIS
link summary: Aux input adapter to feed sound directly into your factory radio. (HONDA AUX ADAPTER) (14 PIN MOLEX SQUARE CD PORTS ONLY) The web site also has install links.
While at it, a shamelessly stolen info ....
Also, what about something like THIS
link summary: Aux input adapter to feed sound directly into your factory radio. (HONDA AUX ADAPTER) (14 PIN MOLEX SQUARE CD PORTS ONLY) The web site also has install links.
While at it, a shamelessly stolen info ....
#106
synthetic artifice
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
Age: 48
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey... first time poster here.
I have never installed a car stereo or done anything like this before, but I wanted to hook up my iPod in my TSX (w/navi) so I gave it a go. Ordered up the SNHOND3, Honda sub-harness, and ground loop isolator. Took me about 2 hours to do everything and it works like a champ. Just wanted to thanks schalliol and everyone else, couldn't have done it without the great FAQ on this board. Later...
I have never installed a car stereo or done anything like this before, but I wanted to hook up my iPod in my TSX (w/navi) so I gave it a go. Ordered up the SNHOND3, Honda sub-harness, and ground loop isolator. Took me about 2 hours to do everything and it works like a champ. Just wanted to thanks schalliol and everyone else, couldn't have done it without the great FAQ on this board. Later...
#107
Former Audio Mod
Thread Starter
Chirp chirp....well, the 1st link you have doesn't seem to work for me.
As for the 2nd link....thanks for it, I took care of it.
My understanding is that the aux adapter is just to interface the head unit with the other accessories, but doesn't enable Aux like the SNHOND3 does....and is essentially useless if you don't have one of their parts.
As for the 2nd link....thanks for it, I took care of it.
My understanding is that the aux adapter is just to interface the head unit with the other accessories, but doesn't enable Aux like the SNHOND3 does....and is essentially useless if you don't have one of their parts.
#109
synthetic artifice
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
Age: 48
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I almost forgot... a few things I learned, may or may not be worthy of addition to the FAQ:
1. You can get a used Belkin iPod car adapter off eBay for 8 bucks. Dozens of them for sale currently.
http://search.ebay.com/Belkin-F8V705...sortpropertyZ1
2. Use painter's tape on all the surfaces that might be scratched while you're operating on your TSX.
3. If you're using the ground loop isolator, why plug an expensive cable into it? Won't your sound quality be limited by the GLI cable? The cable that comes with the GLI is long enough and it sounds fine. Please set me straight if I'm wroing about this, and there is some benefit to using Monster cable with the GLI.
1. You can get a used Belkin iPod car adapter off eBay for 8 bucks. Dozens of them for sale currently.
http://search.ebay.com/Belkin-F8V705...sortpropertyZ1
2. Use painter's tape on all the surfaces that might be scratched while you're operating on your TSX.
3. If you're using the ground loop isolator, why plug an expensive cable into it? Won't your sound quality be limited by the GLI cable? The cable that comes with the GLI is long enough and it sounds fine. Please set me straight if I'm wroing about this, and there is some benefit to using Monster cable with the GLI.
#110
Former Audio Mod
Thread Starter
satoshi801 & Blis, you're very welcome. With regards to satoshi801's items:
1. Yeah, eBay is a great source for many items like that, and I might add it to the FAQ as a place to go.
2. Yeah, I didn't mention "painter's tape," but just tape. I'm not even really sure what painter's tape is, can you link us?
3. The most important cable in my opinion is one that may run along the center console because of the potential interference in the car along the long-ish cable run. If you're talking about the connection from the jacks to the device itself, it doesn't matter much except for a good connection to the device if you have one that's otherwise loose. Yeah, it would be better if the GLI weren't needed. BTW, I think the cable I selected was only like $30 or so. I'm at least confident that it will work well over the life of the car and if I install something that can't easily be removed, I don't want something that I'm not sure about. If I were talking $300 cables, I'd agree that it's excessive for the quality of the system they're being run through with the GLI, etc. I like the ones I picked partly because of their small connectors for getting in tight spaces.
1. Yeah, eBay is a great source for many items like that, and I might add it to the FAQ as a place to go.
2. Yeah, I didn't mention "painter's tape," but just tape. I'm not even really sure what painter's tape is, can you link us?
3. The most important cable in my opinion is one that may run along the center console because of the potential interference in the car along the long-ish cable run. If you're talking about the connection from the jacks to the device itself, it doesn't matter much except for a good connection to the device if you have one that's otherwise loose. Yeah, it would be better if the GLI weren't needed. BTW, I think the cable I selected was only like $30 or so. I'm at least confident that it will work well over the life of the car and if I install something that can't easily be removed, I don't want something that I'm not sure about. If I were talking $300 cables, I'd agree that it's excessive for the quality of the system they're being run through with the GLI, etc. I like the ones I picked partly because of their small connectors for getting in tight spaces.
#111
synthetic artifice
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
Age: 48
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Painter's tape is a lot like masking tape, only less sticky. It's meant for painters who want a clean edge on what they're painting. It's also good (for our purposes) because it doesn't leave any residue on surfaces. Masking tape will work just as well though.
http://www.miami.com/mld/miamiherald...ntstory.jsp&1c
http://www.miami.com/mld/miamiherald...ntstory.jsp&1c
#112
Former Audio Mod
Thread Starter
I did add the tape to the FAQ, as well as a link for some free tape. However, I couldn't access your link without registering, but Google helped me out
#113
synthetic artifice
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
Age: 48
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
One last thing... I promise.
In the directions, it says you can solder the wires together, or use an 'inline crimp'. I didn't have any idea what an inline crimp was, and I don't have any soldering equipment. I wound up buying some small twist-on wire connectors (looks like a little plastic cone -- you slide the wires you want to splice up into it, and twist it to make them hold together.) Then I wrapped the whole mess in electrical tape. Doesn't look as good as yours, but it got the job done.
In the directions, it says you can solder the wires together, or use an 'inline crimp'. I didn't have any idea what an inline crimp was, and I don't have any soldering equipment. I wound up buying some small twist-on wire connectors (looks like a little plastic cone -- you slide the wires you want to splice up into it, and twist it to make them hold together.) Then I wrapped the whole mess in electrical tape. Doesn't look as good as yours, but it got the job done.
#114
Don't listen to me.
Originally posted by satoshi801
In the directions, it says you can solder the wires together, or use an 'inline crimp'. I didn't have any idea what an inline crimp was, and I don't have any soldering equipment. I wound up buying some small twist-on wire connectors (looks like a little plastic cone -- you slide the wires you want to splice up into it, and twist it to make them hold together.) Then I wrapped the whole mess in electrical tape. Doesn't look as good as yours, but it got the job done.
In the directions, it says you can solder the wires together, or use an 'inline crimp'. I didn't have any idea what an inline crimp was, and I don't have any soldering equipment. I wound up buying some small twist-on wire connectors (looks like a little plastic cone -- you slide the wires you want to splice up into it, and twist it to make them hold together.) Then I wrapped the whole mess in electrical tape. Doesn't look as good as yours, but it got the job done.
I belive that the ones you are using are ment for AC power applications. Although I have never seen them used for a DC power application they should be OK.
#116
Former Audio Mod
Thread Starter
Originally posted by ortiz
BTW, schalliol glad to see you back, even if your no longer driving a TSX.
BTW, schalliol glad to see you back, even if your no longer driving a TSX.
#117
ortiz and schallioil,
Are there anybody else from north cal besides you two? I was hoping there can be a car meet setup or something. See what other people have done to their cars and what feedback eachother has. Sorry to hear you move Schalliol, You can't beat the California weather.
Are there anybody else from north cal besides you two? I was hoping there can be a car meet setup or something. See what other people have done to their cars and what feedback eachother has. Sorry to hear you move Schalliol, You can't beat the California weather.
#118
Homestar
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Davis, CA
Age: 47
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Anyone selling pre-modded SNHOND3 with 08A31-0E1-010 to fit TSX w/ Navi? I'm not very good with splicing and dicing cables and would like to purchase a pre-modded assembly.
feel free to email me at henweigh99@yahoo.com directly if you like.
Dave
feel free to email me at henweigh99@yahoo.com directly if you like.
Dave
#119
VP Electricity
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Portland OR US
Age: 58
Posts: 4,617
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
1 Post
Disassembly notes:
Thanks for the heads-up on the tape on the sides of the console when removing the pocket.
With the 5AT, removing the cupholder/shifter surround:
1) Put a plastic bag and a rubber band over the shifter so it doesn't get scratched (or it very likely will...) Open the NOT AN ASHTRAY door.
2) Open the cupholder and put both hands inside the aft cup-basin and push outward towards the sides and pull up. You'll feel the passenger rear fastener come loose (Revenent, it helps if you pretend that it's someone else's car at this point : ).
3) THEN CLOSE THE CUPHOLDER. Or put tape along the passenger side of the console on the last 3 inches of the cupholder. The hinge for the cupholder door sticks out to the side when the door is open AND WILL SCRATCH YOUR CONSOLE.
4) Then stick your index finger in the aft end of the E-brake opening and pull up. Then just work the whole panel on up and off. You'll have to unplug the seat heater switches - they only have like 3 inches of slack. You'll find it'll help to have to have the shifter in something other than Park, but since you also have to take OFF the E-brake at times, do this on level ground.
5) After you've removed this panel you can get to the front two screws holding in NOT AN ASHTRAY.
6) When re-installing the center piece, MAKE SURE THE CUPHOLDER DOOR IS CLOSED. REMEMBER TO PLUG THE SEAT HEATER SWITCHES IN BEFORE SNAPPING ANYTHING INTO PLACE (oops: )
First, check the aft end of the E_brake boot. There is a small metal loop (looks like a stirrup) that is supposed to loop over a plastic tab (looks obvi). Mine was NOT on the tab when I took things off - make sure it's on right.
Next, be careful with the Driver's side rear corner - it seems to be balky. You don't have to press hard - if you do, you're not lined up.
Thanks for the heads-up on the tape on the sides of the console when removing the pocket.
With the 5AT, removing the cupholder/shifter surround:
1) Put a plastic bag and a rubber band over the shifter so it doesn't get scratched (or it very likely will...) Open the NOT AN ASHTRAY door.
2) Open the cupholder and put both hands inside the aft cup-basin and push outward towards the sides and pull up. You'll feel the passenger rear fastener come loose (Revenent, it helps if you pretend that it's someone else's car at this point : ).
3) THEN CLOSE THE CUPHOLDER. Or put tape along the passenger side of the console on the last 3 inches of the cupholder. The hinge for the cupholder door sticks out to the side when the door is open AND WILL SCRATCH YOUR CONSOLE.
4) Then stick your index finger in the aft end of the E-brake opening and pull up. Then just work the whole panel on up and off. You'll have to unplug the seat heater switches - they only have like 3 inches of slack. You'll find it'll help to have to have the shifter in something other than Park, but since you also have to take OFF the E-brake at times, do this on level ground.
5) After you've removed this panel you can get to the front two screws holding in NOT AN ASHTRAY.
6) When re-installing the center piece, MAKE SURE THE CUPHOLDER DOOR IS CLOSED. REMEMBER TO PLUG THE SEAT HEATER SWITCHES IN BEFORE SNAPPING ANYTHING INTO PLACE (oops: )
First, check the aft end of the E_brake boot. There is a small metal loop (looks like a stirrup) that is supposed to loop over a plastic tab (looks obvi). Mine was NOT on the tab when I took things off - make sure it's on right.
Next, be careful with the Driver's side rear corner - it seems to be balky. You don't have to press hard - if you do, you're not lined up.
#120
Advanced
Originally Posted by elduderino
Disassembly notes:
Thanks for the heads-up on the tape on the sides of the console when removing the pocket.
With the 5AT, removing the cupholder/shifter surround:
Thanks for the heads-up on the tape on the sides of the console when removing the pocket.
With the 5AT, removing the cupholder/shifter surround:
I did just hook up my SNHOND3 to my laptop to see how the sound is... it is much quieter than cd/fm and with the vol all the way up its still not all that loud. i'm thinking now i will most likely need to buy or build a line level amp.