swizzyswade

Hello all,
First post here and glad to be a part of an active Acura community.

I'll start by mentioning I've done some research on the issue but would like to clarify what's the best and most likely route of fixing this issue.

First diagnosis was by a local mechanic, I told him I had a weird chirp in first gear and reverse was grinding. He said it was likely a throw out bearing issue and I needed to replace my clutch... expensive so I decided to wait and look further.

Second diagnosis, was by a coworker of mine who claims to be quite good with cars/hondas. By this point the car was now having difficulty getting in to first, grinding often when shifting quick at higher rpms, especially from first to second, and still grind in reverse, even when cycling a few forward moving gears first. He thought it was a transmission issue... even more expensive and worrying.

So I've done my own research, and I'm inclined to believe its just a clutch disengagement issue. Clutch seems to grab quite low, if I'm stopped in first and take pressure of the clutch, the car will roll forward quite easily. And if I turn off the car, I can cycle in to reverse easily and then start the car with the clutch pedal pressed.

So far I did a transmission fluid replacement with the Honda MT fluid, this was a while ago and didn't seem to do much. I have also replaced the slave cylinder and bled/flushed the hydraulic fluid. This seemed to help just barely, but not handle the issue.

I should also mention, the problems seem to be intensified and much worse after lengthy or hard driving, as heat accumulates.

So, I'm unsure whether to go for master cylinder to help disengagement, or if I in fact need to look in to replacing the clutch.... and hoping it's nothing transmission related

thx

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

sounds like syncros in tranny are going.
you can rebuild the syncros instead of getting new transmission.

2nd issue; if indeed clutch is going, replace it.

Mskierki

It could just be your slave/master cylinder going.

swizzyswade

That sounds like sort of a worst case scenario, what makes you jump straight to that conclusion?
I'm trying to figure out if it is indeed the clutch going or just the master cylinder.


Well I replaced the slave already. From my research, master cylinder sounds possible. How could I confirm that?

TexasHonda

Have someone push clutch to floor and hold while you observe clutch release fork and slave cylinder for movement. If they gradually release while clutch is held on floor, the master cylinder or slave cylinder is leaking.

You should see fluid leaking around boot of slave cylinder.

MC can leak internally or externally. An internal leak will not be observed (pressurized fluid bypassing piston).

good luck

swizzyswade

No leaking around slave boot, and held the clutch pedal to the floor for like 30 seconds and the clutch fork moved out and stayed, didn't seem to move back at all.

TexasHonda

MC and slave are OK then, and problem is dragging clutch plate.

Grinding in reverse means gear box is being turned by engine (clutch partially engaged).

New clutch/pressure plate and maybe flywheel probably req'd to fix.

good luck

swizzyswade

I see,

What's the urgency on this?

I've been driving with this condition for a while now and it hasn't really progressed much.

Is it safe to wait till situation gets worse and clutch NEEDS changing, or am I likely causing damage elsewhere and need to get it changed sooner?

Thank you!

TexasHonda

Forced meshing of gears wears synchronizers which is irreversible.

good luck

Tangoman

TexasHonda is right. Better get it fixed pretty quickly otherwise you'll be cracking open your transmission to replace things. Or, you'll have to pay far too much for a rebuilt trans.

NwTSXmt

clutch been there and done that...