Dealership doesnt wanna replace my warped rotor....
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Dealership doesnt wanna replace my warped rotor....
he says the warranty expires at 15,000 miles??? i told him the same thing happened a while back and i got it replaced at 20,000 miles and he says it was a one time courtesy , so anybody know the real warranty for the rotors?
#2
Instructor
This is a tricky subject when it comes to brakes and warranty and really it all comes down to the dealership service department that you are dealing with. if you bitch enough, they will at least resurface them under warranty. i will tell you that it is not something you can just ask for...new rotors that is. they will cut them until out-of-spec....=out-of-warranty...GOOD LUCK!
#5
Team Owner
Brakes are considered wear items so its at the dealership's discretion whether they address this as a warranty item or not. They already replaced it once as a goodwill gesture but they probably don't want to keep replacing your rotor every time. As PACman said, make sure it is actually a warped rotor and not brake pad deposits on the rotor. The OEM pads have a reputation for leaving deposits which would manifest itself as a brake shimmy. Search around, there are a number of threads on this topic. You may want to go with a better set of pads first .
#6
Also, I don't know if things have changed with Honda since I owned my Integra, but I decided to never let Honda turn a rotor again, and I got over 120,000 miles out of the last set of rotors I put on the car.
Before that, they would warp immediately right after they were turned (e.g. when you replaced the pads, the dealer would also turn the rotors), and bang that was it. So, I just quit doing it. The pads take a little longer to wear into a worn and grooved rotor, and the pads may not last as long (though I still got 60K miles out of them), but the rotors quit warping.
Note that brake pads and rotors require a break-in period, and you should avoid sudden stops for the first 200 miles or so. Heating up the rotor with a quick stop and then sitting there with your foot on the brake is especially bad, so if this happens try to let the car roll slightly (e.g. a few inches) a couple of times while you are stopped if possible to shift the pad to a different spot on the rotor while it cools down.
Before that, they would warp immediately right after they were turned (e.g. when you replaced the pads, the dealer would also turn the rotors), and bang that was it. So, I just quit doing it. The pads take a little longer to wear into a worn and grooved rotor, and the pads may not last as long (though I still got 60K miles out of them), but the rotors quit warping.
Note that brake pads and rotors require a break-in period, and you should avoid sudden stops for the first 200 miles or so. Heating up the rotor with a quick stop and then sitting there with your foot on the brake is especially bad, so if this happens try to let the car roll slightly (e.g. a few inches) a couple of times while you are stopped if possible to shift the pad to a different spot on the rotor while it cools down.
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#8
Team Owner
Originally Posted by rb1
.....
Note that brake pads and rotors require a break-in period, and you should avoid sudden stops for the first 200 miles or so. Heating up the rotor with a quick stop and then sitting there with your foot on the brake is especially bad, so if this happens try to let the car roll slightly (e.g. a few inches) a couple of times while you are stopped if possible to shift the pad to a different spot on the rotor while it cools down.
Note that brake pads and rotors require a break-in period, and you should avoid sudden stops for the first 200 miles or so. Heating up the rotor with a quick stop and then sitting there with your foot on the brake is especially bad, so if this happens try to let the car roll slightly (e.g. a few inches) a couple of times while you are stopped if possible to shift the pad to a different spot on the rotor while it cools down.
#9
Instructor
Originally Posted by Un-Kut
he says the warranty expires at 15,000 miles??? i told him the same thing happened a while back and i got it replaced at 20,000 miles and he says it was a one time courtesy , so anybody know the real warranty for the rotors?
#10
Driver/Detailer
If these are your 2nd set of rotors and you get shuddering with them too, you are better off changing to a different brand of pads that don't leave deposits on the rotor when you are at the lights with your foot on the brake. Change the pads and you'll find that the shuddering will go away even without machining your rotors.
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by aaronng
If these are your 2nd set of rotors and you get shuddering with them too, you are better off changing to a different brand of pads that don't leave deposits on the rotor when you are at the lights with your foot on the brake. Change the pads and you'll find that the shuddering will go away even without machining your rotors.
#12
IMHO, Oem rotors from honda are POS! This goes for all the hondas i've own.
I went with Brembo cross-drilled on my civic once and for 75K miles, that thing was smooth as butter on crappy brake pads. It did not fail so quick like oem honda rotors.
I'm buying aftermarket rotors for my tsx soon as well cuz I get the steering jitter but it's not as bad still. I put on Hawk HPS pad and that definitely helped a bit.
I went with Brembo cross-drilled on my civic once and for 75K miles, that thing was smooth as butter on crappy brake pads. It did not fail so quick like oem honda rotors.
I'm buying aftermarket rotors for my tsx soon as well cuz I get the steering jitter but it's not as bad still. I put on Hawk HPS pad and that definitely helped a bit.
#13
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Join Date: May 2004
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Originally Posted by Un-Kut
hmm, i have a question, the dealership guy was stating that only OEM brake pads will not harm the OEM rotors.... aftermarket pads are supposed to be too abrasive to the rotors and will damage it over time , so this is 100% false right?
#14
Senior Moderator
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by Un-Kut
hmm, i have a question, the dealership guy was stating that only OEM brake pads will not harm the OEM rotors.... aftermarket pads are supposed to be too abrasive to the rotors and will damage it over time , so this is 100% false right?
#15
Driver/Detailer
Originally Posted by Un-Kut
hmm, i have a question, the dealership guy was stating that only OEM brake pads will not harm the OEM rotors.... aftermarket pads are supposed to be too abrasive to the rotors and will damage it over time , so this is 100% false right?
But look at it this way, you are using OEM pads that are meant NOT to harm your rotors but they are still damaging it and giving shuddering in such low kms. So you might as well go aftermarket pads (like Hawk pads).
#16
Driver/Detailer
Originally Posted by greendestiny
IMHO, Oem rotors from honda are POS! This goes for all the hondas i've own.
I went with Brembo cross-drilled on my civic once and for 75K miles, that thing was smooth as butter on crappy brake pads. It did not fail so quick like oem honda rotors.
I'm buying aftermarket rotors for my tsx soon as well cuz I get the steering jitter but it's not as bad still. I put on Hawk HPS pad and that definitely helped a bit.
I went with Brembo cross-drilled on my civic once and for 75K miles, that thing was smooth as butter on crappy brake pads. It did not fail so quick like oem honda rotors.
I'm buying aftermarket rotors for my tsx soon as well cuz I get the steering jitter but it's not as bad still. I put on Hawk HPS pad and that definitely helped a bit.
BTW, cross-drilled ftl!
#20
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by jlukja
Are you running Hawk Ceramics on the stock rotors? How do you like them?
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