Calling All Who Have Gotten Brakes/rotors!!!
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Calling All Who Have Gotten Brakes/rotors!!!
Alright guys i've thought this through for a month now and I'm REALLY STUCK! I have a 2005 AT TSX with 49,000 miles. At speeds over about 50mph I get bad shaking on the steering wheel, which with my lack of car experience leads me to think I have brake pad/warped rotor issues. I do also notice the stopping power isn’t what it used to be.
So here’s the question to all of you TSX’ers that have already done the brake pad or rotor swap on your car.
WHAT TO GET???
I haven’t decided or know if maybe just a re-surfacing of my rotors will do the trick (as I’ve been reading that sometimes they aren’t warped, they just have dust caked onto them).
If I get new rotors, I’m not sure what to get for brands. I don’t want or need expensive racing rotors, I just want a nice step up from the crappy stock ones that we all have! Then I’m wondering if they should be slotted or solid?
Then of course there is the decision of what kind of brake pads to get because from what I have seen there are several brands and then 2 or 3 different materials. I’ve researched on here and checked with heeltoe and tire rack and come up with:
Hawk Performance Ceramic Pads
Hawk HPS Street Brake Pads
Satisfied Gransport 6 Pads
If there are others out there please point them out but I do need help deciding what to get!
If I stay with my current rotors the question is what type of material for the pads should I get? I don’t know if ceramic would be ok for the stock rotors or if I should get another type that might not wear my rotors out . . . if that is even the case! And of course if I get new rotors what pad/rotor combo is good.
Again, Im just looking for a nice solid step up from the pads the car came with that are a decent price, all around good value and will give me good stopping power!
SO . . . what do you guys suggest for new pads and or rotors as well if I do need them??? thanks for ANY advice that can be provided!! Heath
So here’s the question to all of you TSX’ers that have already done the brake pad or rotor swap on your car.
WHAT TO GET???
I haven’t decided or know if maybe just a re-surfacing of my rotors will do the trick (as I’ve been reading that sometimes they aren’t warped, they just have dust caked onto them).
If I get new rotors, I’m not sure what to get for brands. I don’t want or need expensive racing rotors, I just want a nice step up from the crappy stock ones that we all have! Then I’m wondering if they should be slotted or solid?
Then of course there is the decision of what kind of brake pads to get because from what I have seen there are several brands and then 2 or 3 different materials. I’ve researched on here and checked with heeltoe and tire rack and come up with:
Hawk Performance Ceramic Pads
Hawk HPS Street Brake Pads
Satisfied Gransport 6 Pads
If there are others out there please point them out but I do need help deciding what to get!
If I stay with my current rotors the question is what type of material for the pads should I get? I don’t know if ceramic would be ok for the stock rotors or if I should get another type that might not wear my rotors out . . . if that is even the case! And of course if I get new rotors what pad/rotor combo is good.
Again, Im just looking for a nice solid step up from the pads the car came with that are a decent price, all around good value and will give me good stopping power!
SO . . . what do you guys suggest for new pads and or rotors as well if I do need them??? thanks for ANY advice that can be provided!! Heath
#3
Let me help you!
Originally Posted by acuratsx007
At speeds over about 50mph I get bad shaking on the steering wheel, which with my lack of car experience leads me to think I have brake pad/warped rotor issues. I do also notice the stopping power isn’t what it used to be.
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Originally Posted by SoCaliTrojan
Are you braking from 50 mph, or are you just going at a steady speed? It could be an alignment problem or a wheel might be imbalanced.
The car drives straight with the steering wheel centered and doesn't seem to pull to either side also so i dont think i have any alignment issues anyways.
I just ordered Yokohama Avid V4S tires from tire rack though, and they will be installed on monday so if there are balance issues it'll be fixed then. I think i might have them check the alignment anyways if im there.
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Alright I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with Hawk Ceramics . . . And also bleed the brake lines out.
Now the only question is what rotors to get? I thought about getting brembo blanks, low cost and assuming they are better then the stock ones. But other rotors that are drilled or slotted are still waiving in my face! Are they worth it, do they make that much of a difference in any categories? Does it benefit me at all?
Now the only question is what rotors to get? I thought about getting brembo blanks, low cost and assuming they are better then the stock ones. But other rotors that are drilled or slotted are still waiving in my face! Are they worth it, do they make that much of a difference in any categories? Does it benefit me at all?
#6
The information that I have read indicates that there is no noticeable performance difference between slotted rotors, drilled rotors, and solid rotors. It seems to be more a marketing gimmick that anything else. But, don't tell that to anyone that paid extra to get those slots or holes. Sort of like painting you caliber housing -- looks different, but no change in performance.
For over 45,000 miles I have always been pleased with the stock rotors and pads; good modulation, decent stopping distance, and minimum wear of both pads and rotors -- but it might be because I am easy on brakes. I no longer live in an area (Atlanta) where the pervasive driving style is "stomp on the gas -- and then stomp on the brakes". I never ride the brakes, like I see so many drivers doing, down a mountain side. I will downshift and then if I need brakes, I will get on them firmly for 2-3 seconds and then off of them to allow them to dissipate the heat.
For over 45,000 miles I have always been pleased with the stock rotors and pads; good modulation, decent stopping distance, and minimum wear of both pads and rotors -- but it might be because I am easy on brakes. I no longer live in an area (Atlanta) where the pervasive driving style is "stomp on the gas -- and then stomp on the brakes". I never ride the brakes, like I see so many drivers doing, down a mountain side. I will downshift and then if I need brakes, I will get on them firmly for 2-3 seconds and then off of them to allow them to dissipate the heat.
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Originally Posted by JimHolloman
I never ride the brakes, like I see so many drivers doing, down a mountain side. I will downshift and then if I need brakes, I will get on them firmly for 2-3 seconds and then off of them to allow them to dissipate the heat.
Good stuff, I practice the same braking/driving methods. I too am quite pleased with the quality of the OEM rotors. Even with track days and HP+ pads, at 90,000+ kms, my rotors are still great.
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I had a similar problem with my rotors, and like you, I wanted to fix it.
I figured that it would cost the same amount to resurface the rotors, and potentially have the problem again, as it was to just buy new rotors and pads.
I ended up buying some RacingBrake slotted rotors paired with Racingbrake Ceramic pads from Marcus @ HeelToe. They are definitely a step up form the stock pads and rotors I no longer have warped rotors, and can stop a lot quicker. I would recommend the same set up
I figured that it would cost the same amount to resurface the rotors, and potentially have the problem again, as it was to just buy new rotors and pads.
I ended up buying some RacingBrake slotted rotors paired with Racingbrake Ceramic pads from Marcus @ HeelToe. They are definitely a step up form the stock pads and rotors I no longer have warped rotors, and can stop a lot quicker. I would recommend the same set up
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Originally Posted by JimHolloman
The information that I have read indicates that there is no noticeable performance difference between slotted rotors, drilled rotors, and solid rotors. It seems to be more a marketing gimmick that anything else. But, don't tell that to anyone that paid extra to get those slots or holes. Sort of like painting you caliber housing -- looks different, but no change in performance.
The whole point of slotted and crossed drilled is heat dissipation, which for most of us, will never be an issue. If you guys ever get the chance, you should see cars racing on a track (not drag racing). You'll see rotors that are literally RED HOT or sometimes even on FIRE. if your rotors produce too much heat, you lose braking power (atleast from what i understand).
If you are looking at slotted and cross drilled rotors to lower your stopping distance (aside from all the other variables such as tires and calipers), you are looking in the wrong place...
But dang they look soo cool! hahaha
good luck man!
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may i also suggest akebono ceramic brake pads. I to had badly warped rotors on my 06 TSX. i replaced only my front rotors and all four pads and what a difference it has made. I am very pleased with the Akebono pad brand. they have great stopping power and they do not squeal at all. When you do replace your rotors just think about brakeing like an old grandpa and that should prevent your rotors from warping in the future. the pistons in your brakes apply over 3000 pounds of pressure per square inch so if you brake to harshly often you will warp any rotors that are not racing rotors.
#13
Originally Posted by pckt013
...brakeing like an old grandpa...
It is common in Atlanta to see the light ahead turn Red, and drivers continuing to accelerate. A little coasting can help the mileage, but many driver's are impatient and apparently always in a rush. It is a driving style that many find hard to abandon -- even though it doesn't save any time and wastes gasoline. I am often amused with I see a driver go flying by me, in an adjacent lane, driving a 3 ton SUV only to stomp on the brakes at the next traffic light and then sit there while I slowly pull up beside him. Most of the driver's in Western NC show much more patience. The exceptions are often those driving pickup trucks -- more so than SUV's.
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Thanks for all the posts guys!
I think i'm going to go with the Hawk Ceramic pads. And for rotors i think its going to be the brembo replacements, it looks like they are solid rotors and good reputation. But i just cant get over that they rust so quick and so badly. Kind of an eye sore behind your rims!!
I think i'm going to go with the Hawk Ceramic pads. And for rotors i think its going to be the brembo replacements, it looks like they are solid rotors and good reputation. But i just cant get over that they rust so quick and so badly. Kind of an eye sore behind your rims!!
#15
Originally Posted by acuratsx007
Thanks for all the posts guys!
I think i'm going to go with the Hawk Ceramic pads. And for rotors i think its going to be the brembo replacements, it looks like they are solid rotors and good reputation. But i just cant get over that they rust so quick and so badly. Kind of an eye sore behind your rims!!
I think i'm going to go with the Hawk Ceramic pads. And for rotors i think its going to be the brembo replacements, it looks like they are solid rotors and good reputation. But i just cant get over that they rust so quick and so badly. Kind of an eye sore behind your rims!!
#16
for EVER more!
i got stoptech slotted rotors on all 4 and new pads from Excelerate. I still have yet to do a proper brake in procedure on them, but no more shaking!!!! I'm at 36 k mi.
good luck!
good luck!
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