what's the lowest offsets you can have??
02-15-2008, 04:13 PM
#2
Khmer Pride
^ colt45 have the lowest offset for the first gen!
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=164312
its 42 to 55 offset
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=164312
its 42 to 55 offset
02-18-2008, 02:05 PM
#3
B A N N E D
Im running a 19x9 -4 now, getting ready to order a -32mm pair of barrels for the rear though.
You arent making that happen easy though. I have well over 2000 worth of parts just to make it work.
An easy 1000 in just suspension arms, another 1000 in all the hubs, machining, and fabricating the rest so the brakes work when you swap hubs.
You could get upper control arms that are adjustable for the rear, and fit like a 30mm or so on the rear with the stock hubs though.
I WOULD NOT SUGGEST SWAPPING HUBS AND FABRICATING THE REAR IF YOU ARE A NOVICE AT BUILDING CARS THOUGH!!!! ITS A JOB FOR SOMEONE WITH FABRICATION SKILLS. It's close, but setting the brakes up so everything works correctly and the bearings so nothing binds will drive you insane.
You arent making that happen easy though. I have well over 2000 worth of parts just to make it work.
An easy 1000 in just suspension arms, another 1000 in all the hubs, machining, and fabricating the rest so the brakes work when you swap hubs.
You could get upper control arms that are adjustable for the rear, and fit like a 30mm or so on the rear with the stock hubs though.
I WOULD NOT SUGGEST SWAPPING HUBS AND FABRICATING THE REAR IF YOU ARE A NOVICE AT BUILDING CARS THOUGH!!!! ITS A JOB FOR SOMEONE WITH FABRICATION SKILLS. It's close, but setting the brakes up so everything works correctly and the bearings so nothing binds will drive you insane.
02-19-2008, 07:01 AM
#7
B A N N E D
I have stuff from all year accords on it man.
The shocks were for an accord. But as they come, they are the wrong lentgh. I sent them to true choice in northern ohio and had them revalved and shortened. A revalve was necessary anyhow because the springrates im using are mega high.
As far as what can you use with 2 inch drop and stock hubs?
2 inch drop? Thats not very much. And it all depends on how down you want to get on the fender lip and rear bumper tab.
and gunner dude, ive been on here since before it was acurazine.
The shocks were for an accord. But as they come, they are the wrong lentgh. I sent them to true choice in northern ohio and had them revalved and shortened. A revalve was necessary anyhow because the springrates im using are mega high.
As far as what can you use with 2 inch drop and stock hubs?
2 inch drop? Thats not very much. And it all depends on how down you want to get on the fender lip and rear bumper tab.
and gunner dude, ive been on here since before it was acurazine.
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02-19-2008, 07:16 AM
#8
B A N N E D
Gunner dude, Those wheels are for sale also. 2900 with tires. Brand new pretty much..
990 each +200 for custom color and offset is what theyd run you brand new most places. Then tires on top of that.
buy buy buy...
990 each +200 for custom color and offset is what theyd run you brand new most places. Then tires on top of that.
buy buy buy...
02-20-2008, 02:38 PM
#9
I would say 9 +33mm w/215 or 225 tire
This is 18x9 +36mm w/225/40/18, rolled fender, cut bumper.
but my car is a 2.5tl. I am going to add a 3mm spacer to the rear to get me more flushed with the fender. and a 15mm spacer to even up my 18x8 +36mm up front. I know you offsets are proably gonna be a bit different, but I think the rears should work. If you was local, I'd let you try my rim on to measure since I have a 9h114.3.
This is 18x9 +36mm w/225/40/18, rolled fender, cut bumper.
but my car is a 2.5tl. I am going to add a 3mm spacer to the rear to get me more flushed with the fender. and a 15mm spacer to even up my 18x8 +36mm up front. I know you offsets are proably gonna be a bit different, but I think the rears should work. If you was local, I'd let you try my rim on to measure since I have a 9h114.3.
02-20-2008, 03:59 PM
#10
B A N N E D
heres bone stock with adjustable spc upper control arms shortened all the way
19x9 -4mm Ultra low Disc. 225 35 19 falken fk452. shaved bumper tab, rolled fender lip 3.5 inch drop....
(im getting the -32- -34mm offset barrels for the rear now so it fits like it used to before i fabbed the wheel bearings.. I want it more flush, and another 2.5- 3 inches of lip.)
Same setup with custom fabbed rear wheel bearings
19x9 -4mm Ultra low Disc. 225 35 19 falken fk452. shaved bumper tab, rolled fender lip 3.5 inch drop....
(im getting the -32- -34mm offset barrels for the rear now so it fits like it used to before i fabbed the wheel bearings.. I want it more flush, and another 2.5- 3 inches of lip.)
Same setup with custom fabbed rear wheel bearings
02-21-2008, 10:04 AM
#11
damn man, everytime I look at your setup it makes me want to go the same route. but thats just way too much work for me. you finish sanding down your car yet? after paint, you'll have proably the badest 1st gen in this forum.
02-21-2008, 12:10 PM
#12
B A N N E D
Nah, your car is just as nice. Very classy.
Dude even with my garage double insulated, vct tile floor, heat ducts in there, double insulated garage door, 2 layers of garage door seal.... the garage is still like 231421342314 below zero out there now.
As soon as it warms up a bit ill be back on attack mode on that shit.. It does not help my daily/winter beater 94 gsr needs a new head (or new loss motion assys, cams, rocker arms...).
Every day i come into work, im waiting for the rocker arm to break and leave me stranded. The LMA'S wore out, and when its not in vtec/high cam its ticking like a bucket of bolts. Either way i built a ls block with 9.0:1 cp pistons, manley rods, all new pink rods and main bearings, new water pump, prodrive oil pump gears, aebs head studs, commetic 20 mil headgasket, all the oil lines for ls vtec, skunk 2 pro series intake cam, ctr exhaust cam, portflow retainers, supertech valvesprings, and a peak intake manifold. Now i just need my tax return for another stock head.
I figure i can sell the gsr motor in the car(in need of mild rebuild) for around 1500 and have enough money for a lovefab ramhorn scroll turbo manifold and garrett gt35r and clutch. Then ill have a 400whp winterbeater. haha
Dude even with my garage double insulated, vct tile floor, heat ducts in there, double insulated garage door, 2 layers of garage door seal.... the garage is still like 231421342314 below zero out there now.
As soon as it warms up a bit ill be back on attack mode on that shit.. It does not help my daily/winter beater 94 gsr needs a new head (or new loss motion assys, cams, rocker arms...).
Every day i come into work, im waiting for the rocker arm to break and leave me stranded. The LMA'S wore out, and when its not in vtec/high cam its ticking like a bucket of bolts. Either way i built a ls block with 9.0:1 cp pistons, manley rods, all new pink rods and main bearings, new water pump, prodrive oil pump gears, aebs head studs, commetic 20 mil headgasket, all the oil lines for ls vtec, skunk 2 pro series intake cam, ctr exhaust cam, portflow retainers, supertech valvesprings, and a peak intake manifold. Now i just need my tax return for another stock head.
I figure i can sell the gsr motor in the car(in need of mild rebuild) for around 1500 and have enough money for a lovefab ramhorn scroll turbo manifold and garrett gt35r and clutch. Then ill have a 400whp winterbeater. haha
02-22-2008, 08:33 AM
#14
B A N N E D
3 inch lip has nothing to do with the wheel fitment. Some wheels are designed to have bigger lips. For some reason im thinking this 3 inch figure you are coming up with is probably being measured incorrectly. 3 inches is a pretty large lip man. Like I have -4mm offsets and a very expensive wheel compared to most that is built to have a bigger lip. Just the way all of the parts of the wheel look, like the edges of the metal make it look more dramatic. And still even with such a dramatic wheel package ive only got right around 4 inches. So using that logic, i just dont see some axis sport tuning wheel or some stuff to have 3 inches with only a 35mm offset.
245 is too wide man. If you are trying to do offset. You go skinnier if possible. Skinnier width, and less offset. So like instead of doing some 18x10 245 Iroc z wheels and tires, do like a 18x7.5 or 18x8 30mm offset with like a 215 or smaller if available a 205 40 18 tire. then do like a 18x8 in the rear with like a +25 mm offset.
Buy the 150 dollar spc extreme bent upper control arms and thats all you need.
It sounds like a lot to do when putting wheels on. But its 150 extra dollars then like 50 to align it. That adjustment of some piddley 200 dollar addition to the price of the wheels you are buying will go right into the size of the rear lip you can have.
Hands down NO PROBLEM with $150.00 spc rear upper control arms you CAN RUN A +25MM OFFSET REAR. (logic being used for a 19x9 with 215 35 19 tire.so yea, if you go smaller with like an 18, you could possibly go lower to like +20mm/shave rear bumper, slightly roll lip on fender)
Just remember if you go jacking the upper control arms all the way cambered in, you will need toe adjustment arms as well. Otherwise your shit will be pigeon toed in the rear so bad that it will understeer really bad, not to mention total your tires in 200 miles. The alignment shop will tell you that if you adjust them too much. I dont really use alignment shops though. I have all of the tools from my road race civics and shit. I mean if you are at mid ohio and you need to make adjustments to your lemans gt1 porsche, theres no fuggin alignment rack so there are tools you can get to do it yourself. You just better hope you know what you are doing cause thats your life if you fuck some shit up.
lemme know if you got any more questions. I can assure you ive torn into this shit big time. There may be other people that have too, but theres not much more to it than what I am highly experianced in doing..
peece
245 is too wide man. If you are trying to do offset. You go skinnier if possible. Skinnier width, and less offset. So like instead of doing some 18x10 245 Iroc z wheels and tires, do like a 18x7.5 or 18x8 30mm offset with like a 215 or smaller if available a 205 40 18 tire. then do like a 18x8 in the rear with like a +25 mm offset.
Buy the 150 dollar spc extreme bent upper control arms and thats all you need.
It sounds like a lot to do when putting wheels on. But its 150 extra dollars then like 50 to align it. That adjustment of some piddley 200 dollar addition to the price of the wheels you are buying will go right into the size of the rear lip you can have.
Hands down NO PROBLEM with $150.00 spc rear upper control arms you CAN RUN A +25MM OFFSET REAR. (logic being used for a 19x9 with 215 35 19 tire.so yea, if you go smaller with like an 18, you could possibly go lower to like +20mm/shave rear bumper, slightly roll lip on fender)
Just remember if you go jacking the upper control arms all the way cambered in, you will need toe adjustment arms as well. Otherwise your shit will be pigeon toed in the rear so bad that it will understeer really bad, not to mention total your tires in 200 miles. The alignment shop will tell you that if you adjust them too much. I dont really use alignment shops though. I have all of the tools from my road race civics and shit. I mean if you are at mid ohio and you need to make adjustments to your lemans gt1 porsche, theres no fuggin alignment rack so there are tools you can get to do it yourself. You just better hope you know what you are doing cause thats your life if you fuck some shit up.
lemme know if you got any more questions. I can assure you ive torn into this shit big time. There may be other people that have too, but theres not much more to it than what I am highly experianced in doing..
peece
02-25-2008, 09:47 AM
#16
B A N N E D
"suspension
hey bro for a 3.2 suspension can i just use 94-96 accord suspension? i know you gave me the model numbers but when i looked it up it only gave me the numbers so i have no idea what year accord did you use-thanks"
94-96 accord koni stuff with ground control coilovers.
man theres an entire thread where i get down and dirty with every detail. I cant keep rephrasin myself, cause im bound to forget sooner or later. Just check the thread, I created it. It will tell you what you need if you are up to doing it like a rap video. If you want to do it cheapo, just buy cheaper shit for the cars i got the parts from. Like get tokikos or whatever instead of koni, and get some like dropppmax coilover springs or some shit. Thats just if you want something lower and not worried about it handling like a lemans car. My car has at least 3 hours labor in the alignment and is cornerbalanced and cornerweighted for competitive track/road racing. You dont need all the shit i have really unless you plan on competitively racing the car. Even then, a beginner or novice does not need that much adjustment or a car setup that agressive anyhow...Unless you want to get really frustrated spinning the car out and hitting curbs and shit while you are learning.
Just get replacement struts, not stock, shorter ones for lowering. And a standard ground control kit for the tl.
Otherwise you are looking at right at $1000 for the koni struts after they are shortened and revalved and back in your possesion. Then another 4-500 for the ground controls with the custom rates/collars/perches/bumpstops. Then another 500 for the control arms. Then 200 to pay someone to align all of it. $$$$$......
hey bro for a 3.2 suspension can i just use 94-96 accord suspension? i know you gave me the model numbers but when i looked it up it only gave me the numbers so i have no idea what year accord did you use-thanks"
94-96 accord koni stuff with ground control coilovers.
man theres an entire thread where i get down and dirty with every detail. I cant keep rephrasin myself, cause im bound to forget sooner or later. Just check the thread, I created it. It will tell you what you need if you are up to doing it like a rap video. If you want to do it cheapo, just buy cheaper shit for the cars i got the parts from. Like get tokikos or whatever instead of koni, and get some like dropppmax coilover springs or some shit. Thats just if you want something lower and not worried about it handling like a lemans car. My car has at least 3 hours labor in the alignment and is cornerbalanced and cornerweighted for competitive track/road racing. You dont need all the shit i have really unless you plan on competitively racing the car. Even then, a beginner or novice does not need that much adjustment or a car setup that agressive anyhow...Unless you want to get really frustrated spinning the car out and hitting curbs and shit while you are learning.
Just get replacement struts, not stock, shorter ones for lowering. And a standard ground control kit for the tl.
Otherwise you are looking at right at $1000 for the koni struts after they are shortened and revalved and back in your possesion. Then another 4-500 for the ground controls with the custom rates/collars/perches/bumpstops. Then another 500 for the control arms. Then 200 to pay someone to align all of it. $$$$$......
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