KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

so i noticed a pretty bad thud on the passenger side rear when going over bumps... i was changing the rear pads yest and checked the upper control arm... there was play when i shook the arm left to right... movement and clicking in the ball and socket where the arm connects to the body of the car...

have put in an order with tim for a new one... will do a DIY with pics when it arrives...

main70072

What a coincidence, I also replaced my passenger side rear upper control arm last weekend while changing the rotors and pads because it was making the same "thud" sound everytime I go over a bump. Found out that my rear passenger side bearing was bad and changed both hubs while I was at it.

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

were you able to find an aftermarket arm or did you go OEM? everywhere i checked didn't have a replacement for the 3.2...i think i saw maybe one place that had one for the 2.5...

main70072

I didn't want to just replace one side with a brand new control arm so I decided to go with a used one. Ordered a set of rear upper and lower control arms from a wrecked car for a total of $40 shipped with ball joint and bushing in excellent condition. I replaced just the passenger rear upper arm for now, although I should have done both side.

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

yea i should have checked car-part for a used one... but knowing my luck i would put it on and in 2 months, that one would start to click...

main70072

Yeah, I kinda lucked out on the parts because I didn't expect them to be in such great condition. I figured for the price, it was worth a try. As for the hub assemblies with the bearings, those have to be new because I did not want to risk getting them used and crapping out on me anytime soon.

When is the arm coming?

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

fed ex says tomorrow...will prob tackle this weekend while im hiding from the trick-o-treaters...

main70072

What's the update?

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

still waiting for the damn arm to arrive... apparently it is a rare part and had to be sourced across the country for a new one... got off the phone with Tim and should arrive next week...

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

finally arrived yesterday... will install this weekend and post pics...

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

installed today... but figured out that the arm was actually fine anyway... the boot was torn and leaking grease, but the arm is fine so i will replace the boot and resell it used... anyone need a passenger side UCA?

the thud i traced down to a loose locking nut on the lower control arm...

will post pics of the DIY...

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

step one is of course to jack up the car and apply jack stands where appropriate and remove the wheel...

here are all the part #a.

replacement arm: 52390-SZ5-013
new castle nut: 90321-SE0-000
cotter pin: 94201-20350



here is a view of the arm that you will be removing...



First remove the plastic protective cap that is covering the castle nut on the ball joint... (10mm) and then remove the old cotter pin... i was able to unhook the pin and tap it out... if it is really seized in there you can cut the pin...



after you get the cotter pin off, unscrew the castle nut halfway (15mm or 17mm i forgot)... keep it halfway on and do not completely remove it... helps if you have an impact gun...

take a few good wacks with a hammer on the control arm and knuckle to loosen it a bit... (there are points on the arm and knuckle where you can strike the hammer... do not wail on the ball joint or any other spot than is not designated to take impact... if you don't know where to strike, skip this step...

you will need a ball joint separator or ball joint fork...



before you stick the fork and separate the ball joint from the knuckle, place the jack underneath the knuckle to catch the assembly when it separates... after it separates, remove the castle nut and it will be free...



now remove the two bolts that hold the arm to the chassis... those should be 14mm IRRC... i sprayed them with some WD40 or PB Blaster at the start to let them set in and break loose easier... it helps if you have an impact gun...



put on the new arm in the reverse order...

Torque specs to reinstall:

2 Flange bolts for the arm to the chassis is 28 ft/lbs
Castle nut is 35 ft/lbs





took me 40 mins start to finish...

feel free to ask any questions...

tmnhs81

Another great DIY.

main70072

Nice write up and pics. I would like to add that the torque specs for the 2.5TL is the same. Also, if spindle nut was taken off for any reason, that should be torque to 134ft/lbs.