TLBaller

I finally brought my car in to the mechanic and have them look at my o2 sensors. The man quoted me 800 bucks!! He said the front and rear ones need to be replaced. He said they're about 350 each. I said ill go home and think about it since its a big lump of change.

So I hope on the net and googled it. Turns out that there are "universal" ones for my 2.5TL that cost around 70 bucks but it says i must use the old connector..? There is a OE replacement that was 230 bucks which is prob a simple "plug and play" kind of deal. Nothing close to 350 like the thief quoted me.

My question to you all is should i buy the universal one and keep the original connector or should i just buy the whole replacement? Here is a link to what i'm talking about.

http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?...mk=Acura&md=TL

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

did you try calling Tim at Hondacuraworld??? he usually has very reasonable prices on OEM stuff... ~$220? each i would guess...

Go90go

I'll see what I can do because I usually can get parts pretty damn cheap. I'll let you know.

~Cheers~

meazz1

I bought mine at http://oxygensensors.com/ for about $100.00 (Universal) and connected the old connector, replaced myself.
I had changed both the upper and one on the cat myself.

Not such a difficult diy.

TLBaller

GO90: thank you for your offer but don't worry about it. I already told a guy to help me out with the part.

I want to drive my car off a cliff right now but we don't have cliffs here in houston lol

TimmyPB

nah man i live up here in Nacogdoches and i used my Gramp's tools to replace both the 02 sensor in front of and behind the Cat. It is not too hard or time consuming. I used universals for both of them and have had zero problems with them. One of them switched the check engine light off and for the other i went to autozone and turned off. Shouldn't have to pay much more than 100 for each one. I got quoted like 350$ for one at a shop and just told the guys straight up..... No that's all right i will just do it myself. Although we had to rig up a tool for removal since we did not have the right one. Doable yourself if your like me and know nominal car stuff.

TLBaller

sorry for reviving a dead thread but the guy didn't come through with the part. I am just going to buy it online. I am not getting the universal O2, I am getting the OEM ones thats $111'ish..

Quick question before i order online:

TRUE or FALSE

Front o2 is before cat and Rear o2 is after cat?

TLBaller

somebody? anybody..

KaMLuNg

iTrader: (5)

that sounds about right... look on the online service manual for confirmation...

TLBaller

I got it put in today. NOW the mechanic is telling me that I won't pass emission until I drive 40-50k miles! My registration sticker expired 11/2007 LOL!! I'm so screwed...

meazz1

40 -50k? ( meaning, thousand or Kilometer?)

You will need to drive 300 -400 miles or less.
an O2 barely lasts 40 - 50k (lol)....

TLBaller

k means thousands and I said miles.

Go90go

Yes, late reply, but yes. Sorry to hear that the guy flaked, and I went searching for the sensors only to find that they were thrown out.

You will pass. Don't worry. Just get a bottle of Guaranteed To Pass for $7, drive hard for about half a tank minimum, and go test. You guys don't have as strict emissions as us here in CA and that worked for me.

~Cheers~

TLBaller

GO: is this trick new? I haven't heard of such a thing as that can you mentioned but a coworker was telling me that EVERYBODY knows of that trick. Also, he said that i can buy "octane boost" that i can pour into my gas tank and drive for a good 30-1hr and pull right into an emission place on a day when its not busy. Let the engine keep running and get it inspected...and ill supposedly pass..?? I'm not sure if that'll work or not but ill give it a try!! been expired since 11-07..HOLLA!!

01tl4tl

octane booster is not going to make you pass- the guaranteed to pass stuff has to be run thru a tank of gas then fresh gas added then driven then tested.
Both products can spike certain readings and give the machine fits~~~
Since all you did was replace the sensors- and had a CEL --I am guessing -- do the method below

Also- most states will allow you to pay the reg fees and give a temp. operating sticker so you can drive to get it smogged without hassle

In the 2001 TL manual there is a procedure for the ECU to do a quick relearn of the data -- IF you disconnected the battery -which clears the ecu and any stored fault codes like CEL.
In Ca, the smog machine plugs into the reader in the center console- if it says not ready for testing- it means not enough data to know if someone is trying to hide a check engine light and trick the smog machine~~

from the book: Testing of Readiness Codes
If you take your vehicle for a state emissions test shortly after the battery has been disconnected or gone dead, it may not pass the test.
This is because of certain "readiness codes" that must be set in the onboard
diagnostics for the emissions systems. These codes are erased when the battery is disconnected, and set again only after several days of driving under a variety of
conditions.
If the testing facility determines that the readiness codes are not set, you
will be requested to return at a later date to complete the test. If you must
get the vehicle re-tested within the next two or three days, you can
condition the vehicle for re-testing by doing the following.
• Make sure the gas tank is nearly, but not completely, full (around 3/4).
• Make sure the vehicle has been parked with the engine off for 8 hours or more.
• Make sure the ambient temperature is between 20° and 95° F.
• Without touching the accelerator pedal, start the engine and let it idle for 20 seconds.
• Keep the vehicle in Park.
Increase the engine speed to 2,000 rpm and hold it there until the temperature gauge rises to at least 1/4 of the scale (approximately 3 minutes).
Select a nearby lightly traveled major highway where you can maintain a speed of 50 to 60 mph for at least 20 minutes.
Drive on the highway in D5. Do not use thecruise control.
When traffic allows, drive for 90 seconds without moving the accelerator pedal.
(Vehicle speed may vary slightly;this is okay.)
If you cannot do this for a continuous 90 seconds because of traffic conditions,
drive for at least 30 seconds, then repeat it two more times (for a total of 90
seconds).
• Then drive in city/suburban traffic for at least 10 minutes.
When traffic conditions allow, let the vehicle coast for several seconds without using the
accelerator pedal or the brake pedal.
If the testing facility determines the readiness codes are still not set, see
your Acura dealer.