jzebrook

I just bought a 98 tl 3.2 with 150k i love the car and this fourm all ready but im having a problem with the car stallin at just about any rpm and no consistanty its throwing a p0505 code and driving me crazy. The guy i bought it from replaced the throtle body (dont know why :-/ ) but he gavae me reciepts for it and all the senors and they all look new too. New TPS, MAP, IACV ect. I read about the idle air relearn proceedure. So i turned off everything started it cold held it at 3k rpm till two fan cycles and let it idle for 5 mins minus the fan time. no luck so i got a basic scan tool (cheap one) and turn key on reset computer turn car on, held at 3k, and as it was warming up it just shut off while at 3k rpms! So i had to wait a few mins (i tried to restart right away with no luck) and start it back up and just continued the process. once done i turned it off let it sit for a few mins drove it around the block and it stalled as i came to a stop wtf grrrr .... So, here i am i always find a fourm for my bikes and vechiles and know this is the place were to go. Any ideas or comments will be greatly appriecated and thank u in advance! if u need to know anything else please let me know. Am i in the right direction with the idle or ca somethin else can cause this? also the code did not come right back on after it stalled a few times so maybe that could be a result of something interfering with the idle?? i have acess to alldata so if u guys can help me i have no prob doin this but i cant afford goin to the dealer. thank you

-Joe

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

i would say maybe a vacuum leak, but it would not be turning off/stall out at the rpm though

fuel pump cutting out maybe????, either from it being worn out, or the main relay cutting out (along with cutting spark at the same time)






when it died at 3k, did it stumble at all, or just like drop dead literally with cutting out?

tmnhs81

Hows fuel pressure?

jzebrook

I have considered a fuel issue but what type of test or wat should i do to check the fuel pressure? ill look over the vacume lines but like u said that dosnt make since that it runs for 3 mins at 3k and just dies. Anyone else any ideas? no one has had any problems like this with their TL? waht about problems whne people put on throotle body spacers? that would invole in taking off the throttle body too... am i doin the idle procedure right?

jzebrook

sry i didnt see this,
it just droped deadnif there was a stumble it was very very quick. how could i go about testing the fuel pump? or the main relay and location? could the throtle body install affect this at all?

BTW idk if i mentioned the idle is low proboly 600 sometimes it seems normal but on average it is low

jzebrook

bump, i need your help please fellas!

zimzamman

I lean towards the main relay, like friesm2000. My 97 3.2 has cut out 4 or 5 times in last 3 months, twice last week, while stopping at a light. It might start right up, or may take several tries. Usually I hit the under-dash where it is located. Can't tell if that helped, or not, but it would start up fine, and would run fine again for several weeks. I replaced it this week, so far so good. $62 at O,reily's, next day delivery; MITSUBA p/n is RZ-0105; same unit is used in the 96-04 RL, 91-95 Legend. Hard to get out the original in the 97 TL, I had to remove the two conectors and hook up the new unit and cable-tie it up there.

My 96 3.2 TL did the same thing last year; would quit several times over a several month period. Finally it stopped and wouldn't start with the wife driving 20 miles away. Had it towed to shop, they replaced fuel pump and main relay (I'm sure it was just the main relay)....big expense....that's why I replaced my 97 relay this week.

My 94 Legend acted up in a similar way several years ago; Replaced that main relay also, and no problems since.

A lot of people re-solder the contacts on them to fix them, but you have to get it out to do that. If you can get it out, there is a test procedure for it in Chilton page 5-9 to test the unit, with a meter and 12 vdc.

None of these threw a code...never had a P0505 code. Good luck...

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

most of them are not too bad to get out, if you know how to kinda twist it right to pop off the bracket



anyways just for shit and giggles, pop open the old relay (they are JUST a bit easier to open then a normal relay lol), and look for some cracked solder joints


edit: just forgot sometimes honda's do not have the best ignition switches either

jzebrook

hmmm interesting a faulty relay would make sense because it would just loose fuel pressure and then its done and it proboly would act funny and inconsistant (because we know how relays always act up beofr goin completly) so this is a common problem huh? ima check to see if i can find a test procedure for it even though it may not be acting up when i test it and ill pop it open and see if any conections look funny in it. Any pictures of its location? dose anyone have the PDF for the test procedure as well incase i cant find it?

This wouldnt cause the low idle right? i could be fighting two things like the relay issue and the idle from the guy not doin the proceedure. Did my idle proceedure seem correct? anyone have the real and complete idle process?

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

[quote=jzebrook;12794292]hmmm interesting a faulty relay would make sense because it would just loose fuel pressure and then its done and it proboly would act funny and inconsistant (because we know how relays always act up beofr goin completly) so this is a common problem huh? ima check to see if i can find a test procedure for it even though it may not be acting up when i test it and ill pop it open and see if any conections look funny in it. Any pictures of its location? dose anyone have the PDF for the test procedure as well incase i cant find it?

This wouldnt cause the low idle right? i could be fighting two things like the relay issue and the idle from the guy not doin the proceedure. Did my idle proceedure seem correct? anyone have the real and complete idle process?[/quote
]along with loosing spark depending on what part of the relay is going out (main relay is actually two relays in one box)

jzebrook

yea i found the whole relay fix on here and im not that good at soidering so ill have to buy a new one and practic on this one if that it the problem it makes sense and then the issue with the ignition switches too damn cars run great it just seem if there is a problem then im destin to encounter it.

anyone have the correct idle procedure i feel as if im not doin it right.

and the only thing i coulnt really fine is a diffenitive test procedure for the fuel pump relay, any help with this also?

thanks fellas uve been great

zimzamman

Did you get the car fixed? was it ignition, relay, fuel system, or ?....Just curious...thanks