Help!!!!
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Help!!!!
So I still can't figure out what wrong with my rpm's when I brake they just drop when I brake hard. Please any suggestions would help forget about the fuel delivery though did almost everything already. I'm leaning towards throttle body idle control valve but probably not the case. Is it normal for the rpm's to drop when it has a load such as AC, Lights, turning wheel and etc...? Please help any help very much appreciated this problem only getting worse tried cleaning throttle but nothing, also tried relearn idle and nothing. Again I brake hard and rpm's drop so low it either stalls or tries to stall. Thank You in advance guys.
#3
'13 Hyundai Sonata
Have you tried seafoam?
Here is the thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-tl-1996-1998-101/98-3-2tl-seafoam-diy-w-pics-614265/
Even though this may not fix the problem, it should help a little bit.
Here is the thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-tl-1996-1998-101/98-3-2tl-seafoam-diy-w-pics-614265/
Even though this may not fix the problem, it should help a little bit.
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
Found this today but doing diagnostics also because I can't deal with it anymore it seems intermittent to where it could happen when it just feels like it.
Stalling under braking is a common problem with many causes. The complexity of modern fuel injected cars often both exacerbates the fault and makes diagnosis more difficult.
Electrical Fault
Brake lights draw a lot of power from the car's electrical system. If your car's alternator and/or electrical system is weak, the brake lights might sap enough power from the ignition system or fuel pump to stall the car.
Air Fault
Under idle conditions, a dirty or malfunctioning IAC (idle air control valve) will prevent air from passing through, which can cause sudden stalling under deceleration.
Torque Converter Lock-Up
Modern torque converters use clutches to positively lock the transmission to the engine under cruise. If the torque converter's clutch does not release quickly enough, the engine will stall under deceleration.
Time Frame
Intermittent stalling is usually caused by a dirty IAC and will get worse over time. Electrical and torque converter stalling are often on/off faults; they either happen all the time or not at all.
Diagnosis
An IAC fault will often manifest as an unsteady idle, even in park. Brake light faults will happen whether the vehicle is in motion or not; application of the brake will always stall the engine. Thanks guys
Stalling under braking is a common problem with many causes. The complexity of modern fuel injected cars often both exacerbates the fault and makes diagnosis more difficult.
Electrical Fault
Brake lights draw a lot of power from the car's electrical system. If your car's alternator and/or electrical system is weak, the brake lights might sap enough power from the ignition system or fuel pump to stall the car.
Air Fault
Under idle conditions, a dirty or malfunctioning IAC (idle air control valve) will prevent air from passing through, which can cause sudden stalling under deceleration.
Torque Converter Lock-Up
Modern torque converters use clutches to positively lock the transmission to the engine under cruise. If the torque converter's clutch does not release quickly enough, the engine will stall under deceleration.
Time Frame
Intermittent stalling is usually caused by a dirty IAC and will get worse over time. Electrical and torque converter stalling are often on/off faults; they either happen all the time or not at all.
Diagnosis
An IAC fault will often manifest as an unsteady idle, even in park. Brake light faults will happen whether the vehicle is in motion or not; application of the brake will always stall the engine. Thanks guys
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Good news finally figured out what was wrong with the TL stalling when braking issue for anyone having similar problems... Check all vacuum hoses and check your IACV. I found that a vacuum hose underneath the air intake tube when placed was torn through, maybe this happened when my timing belt was recently changed, it happens to have a plastic connector on the timing belt box itself. You can also check to see if the IACV is working by unmounting it two 12inch bolts, keep it plugged then turn the ignition to the "ON' position and looking inside the sensor to see if its moving in or out or clicking, if it doesn't it should be faulty. I tried cleaning mine but ultimately knew it was no good. $70 to replace used with a week to return if defective.