finally replaced my engine mounts..

the passenger side and driver side are about the same, but you will have to take out the axle on the drivers side to get the mount out.

but, here is the basic procedure for one.


raise the car on stands.

open the hood,

take off the nut that connects mount with the bracket, there is 1 per mount. 17mm.

[img=http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/2933/bolttotakeoff2wn.th.jpg]
(the image is with new mount, but you get the idea.)

take off the wheel

the next step is to support the engine. you'll need some wood to spread the pressure of the jack. i placed my jack under the differential because it was a large flat area. all you need to do is to support the engine, you are not trying to lift it out of the mounts.. well, you do want to lift it little bit, maybe a 1/3".

take off the mud guard that is behind the wheel, there are (3) 10 mm bolts.

while you are at it, unplug the vacuum hoses that connect to the mount assembly.

once that is done, get a 14mm wrench and remove 4 bolts that hold the mount to the frame.

[img=http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/4678/looseningthemount8ry.th.jpg]

now you should be able to wiggle the mount and use that flexibility to get access to the 3 bolts that hold a bracket to the engine..

you'll need a tool like this one..

[img=http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/4250/toolofchoice1hf.th.jpg]


here is the bracket out..
[img=http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/3586/bracket9pg.th.jpg]

the lowest bolt of the bracket can be accessed from below, but for the rest i found the snake to be necessary..

now you have the mount loose and able to rotate it in that space.. but getting it out is another story.. the passenger one came out on the inside of the frame after wiggling and spinning it out.. the driver side wasn't so lucky.. i had to remove the axle to get it out.. you'll need to have a new set ring for the axle..
you'll also need to drain the differential fluid.. (at least that's what manual said)
it smells!!

installation is reverse of removal.. set the mount and bracket in place.. get the bolts for the bracket in place, but don't tighten them..
install and tighten the bolts that hold the mount to the frame..
finish the bolts on the bracket..

lower the engine..

make sure there is no gap between the bracket and the top of the mount..
if there is, the pins didn't line up.. that didn't happend to me.. and i don't think that should happend.. but check anyways..

attach the vacuum hoses.. you can replace them if you want..

install splash guard, wheel..

lower the car..

set the 17mm bolts on the mounts.. don't tighten them..
run the car for couple of mins..
tighten the drivers side, then passengers to 54lb-ft..


_______________________________
sadly, most of my vibration remains..
tomorrow i will check other mounts..
when i shift into drive or reverse and hold brake i get a vibration..

 

update: found that my vacuum hoses to the solenoid were crossed..
sigh..

i have no clue how that happened..

vibrations are pretty much gone..
an interesting development is that it shifts smoother.. it used to kick a bit at certain times..

i just hope that i didn't screw up my mounts by driving all this time with those hoses crossed..

 

PI, I had the same exact problem...the "Master Technician" at the Acura dealer said that the engine mounts rarely go bad. He has 225k on his TL and still perfect. I tested mine by disconnecting the vacuum line and using a direct source & no source (no change).
My vibration started off small and got ever increasing w/ brakes on. Vibrations were there sometimes w/ driving under 30mph. I did a little figuring and removed both axel assemblies and replaced w/ new rebuilt one. PROBLEM FIXED, NO VIBRATION! It worked for mine and the axels only take about 1.5 hrs a side. Good luck and thanx for the engine mount r/r techno (very informative).

 

thanks.

my vibration goes away as soon as i start driving..
i have replaced my axles during last 20k miles.. i did get the cheap stuff..
however i am missing the damper ring on one of them.. but i think that its useful at higher speeds..

in hindsight i should have chosen better axles.. but back then i took my car to shops..

my vibration is primarily in steering wheel, when in gear and brakes on..

 

great writeup

i think we need a DIY subforum or maybe get this sticky...

 

ok... i know that is is an old thread but... is this for a 2.5 or for a 3.2 or it is the same? because im having the same problem and i want to save some money

 

this is for 2.5

 

Please Sticky this informative thread.

 

When I apply the brakes, my frint-end vibrates really bad. When the tranny shifts, it's not smooth. I know from past experiences, when this happens, many times the motor mounts are shot. Any suggestions or anyone have similiar experiences?

 

Just did my right side mount yesterday. 223,000 km. The rubber was torn on the front and rear - almost all the way through too. That would explain the clunk when shifting in to gear. All good now. Not too bad to replace. The rear inner bolt is a bit of a pain. The front inner bolt can be reached from above. As an FYI the mount is removed by turning/twisting it and dropping it towards the engine, not towards the outside of the car as I first had tried...

 

I have to replace my mounts as well, where did you guys purchase them at and did you do the transmission mount as well or just the right and left. I've been doing some searching and these things are expensive....thanks in advance