ABS parts replacement 96 3.2TL
 

My ABS/TCS lights came on some time back (before I found this site) and I had the codes read at a Honda/Acura repair shop. They said the accumulator and motor would need to be replaced and they'd do it for around $1500. I told them they would not. I removed the fuses to keep it quiet and later, I decided to buy the parts and did, but haven't got up the nerve to tackle the job yet. Since I have the new parts, I'm going to go ahead and put em in. I have a pretty sketchy repair manual on CD. It tells me to bleed the ABS and shows that pretty well. It also recommends releaving the pressure on the accumulator which is also straight forward. I suppose I have to remove the brake lines from the unit; remove the mounting screws and connector, and remove the unit being careful to not spill out the fluid in the unit. I guess I then have to replace the parts I bought along with their new o-rings and put it back together and refill with brake fluid, run it and refill it. Does this sound about right? I'd like to see an official step-by-step in an official manual, but can't seem to find one on CD.

PM your email address and I'll forward section from OEM online manual I have.

It's straightforward. You should get a set of flare nut wrenches to avoid rounding the tubing nuts.

If there are indications of leaks from the modulator, it may be a simple matter of tightening the body plugs (9?) that leaked. There was a TSB for Accord and Acura CL models using this same modulator, but a mirror image on opposite side of car. You can find modulators on car-part.com for <$50. I hope you didn't buy a new modulator!

What code was presented? I've repaired a couple of these units.

good luck

Tex, thanks for the response. I did buy new parts, but what the heck? It's done. I paid a little more than $600 for the parts. I didn't know how to read the codes then so I'm just going to do the swap. This car has been absolutely great and has hardly ever cost me anything since I bought in in 97. It has a salvage title and I didn't realize at the time that it had no warranty which I never needed.
I needed 5 posts to use the PM system so I might be able to PM you now; we'll see? I'll let you know. Oh by the way, I haven't seen any evidence of leaks and the brake fluid level in the ABS hasn't dropped.
I do plan on getting a set of flare nut wrenches today at Harbor Freight. I have to return a Pittman Arm removing tool that I bought to work on my son's 94 Silverado. It was made out of taffy and broke when he was using a socket wrench with less than a 12" handle. I guess in that case we got what we paid for. A $15 one from Pep Boys did the job.

You can access the ABS trouble codes by shorting service check connector under the glove box. It's a two wire connector (usually blue) plugged into a dummy receptacle pinned to under-dash structure. Once you short the connector, turn keyswitch to On, and ABS light will blink the trouble codes. A long 2 sec On flash validates ABS light is good. Codes are subsequently flashed, all short flashes (f) and 1-sec pause (P) between 1st and 2nd digit. Code 1-5 is f-P-f-f-f-f-f. If more than one code there is a 5 sec pause before next code, or same code repeats if only one.

good luck

I decided to go ahead and replace the ABS motor and accumulator since I bought em over 6 months back. I always have a hard time figuring out how to get the connectors apart, but that went ok. Someone mentioned on another thread that you really need to use a tubing wrench to not round the tubing nuts. I got all off but the bottommost one and tried to use an open end wrench on it. I rounded it a little, but stopped before totally messing it up and got it off with the tubing wrench. I had to loosen the computer housing next to it to get access to some of the tube nuts. Here's hoping the parts replacement and reassembly goes ok tomorrow.

How did the installation go?

The reassembly went pretty well. I test drove it and the brakes needed bleeding badly. Yesterday, my son and I bled em. I can't believe where they put the bleed valves on the front wheels so we removed the tires to do them. It's no big deal since I recently moved my air compressor, wall mounted shop vacuum, and a pull out electric cord to the end of the garage. I'll check it tomorrow to verify if I still have any codes, and get back to you. At least, I don't hear anything wrong like I did earlier.

On 2.5TL I turn the tires full one way to access bleeder port, and then reverse for opposite side.

good luck

I think I have bad news. When I start the engine, the ABS pump runs for around 30 seconds then shuts off and the ABS light comes on. I guess I'll try to read the error code, but I'm ready to pull the plug on this.

Any news on this? I know its super old

It's an old story, but the same plot. It's been too damn hot to fool with anything but golf clubs this summer. Now that it's finally below 100f, I'll try to get a used unit. I promise to let you know how it goes.

Could you post a picture of your ABS unit sometime? I'm hoping its the same as mine

I just got a modulator off Car Part.Com from Morris Dismantlers. I didn't want to pay the most or least so mine was $75 + $15 shipping. It came yesterday and looks very good. I think I can swap out the old one in short time and am hoping it works: Stay tuned.

Are you saying the brand new pump you installed now has defects?

What ABS code did you find?

good luck

I'll go back into history about my problem. Before I found Acurazine, I took my car to an independant Honda/Acura repair facility and had them check out my ABS problem. They told me that I needed the accumulator and motor changed. Not knowing any better, I bought the 2 parts for about $600 at an Acura dealer. The parts guy there asked me if I was sure I needed those parts since they were expensive. I told him that's what I was told and changed em. It did no good, but I didn't try to return the parts. Maybe they wouldn't have taken them back anyway. That's about the time I joined Acurazine and you told me about Car Part.Com.