Time for some real advice
#1
Time for some real advice
Time for some real advice from the pros…
I have a 1997 2.5 TL
Lately, I feel that the car is not performing up to its capability. It’s very slow to response to acceleration. It’s not that it reves or something, but takes few seconds longer to get up to that speed, It feels that the really have to press harder on the gas pedal. I also understand that it has 220k on it.
Recently, I have changed tranny filter and fluid.
I also put in new spark plugs. New radiator and secondary 02 sensor. I changed the plugs wire about 20k miles ago with good quality NGKs. PCV valve was changed also.
I have an issue, the engine / piston ring leaks very little oil to # 5 and # 6 spark plug. I don’t know if that’s the reason I am loosing power.
Any advice would be highly appreciated. Also, can some one recommend a better quality spark plug?
I have a 1997 2.5 TL
Lately, I feel that the car is not performing up to its capability. It’s very slow to response to acceleration. It’s not that it reves or something, but takes few seconds longer to get up to that speed, It feels that the really have to press harder on the gas pedal. I also understand that it has 220k on it.
Recently, I have changed tranny filter and fluid.
I also put in new spark plugs. New radiator and secondary 02 sensor. I changed the plugs wire about 20k miles ago with good quality NGKs. PCV valve was changed also.
I have an issue, the engine / piston ring leaks very little oil to # 5 and # 6 spark plug. I don’t know if that’s the reason I am loosing power.
Any advice would be highly appreciated. Also, can some one recommend a better quality spark plug?
#3
First do a Seafoam treatment- see 2nd gen - Seafoamed the ol TL
NGK is fine
Oil on the plugs will make it run bad- you can put one of the "spark plug extender/oil cover" on those plugs (new ones)
it is a shroud that keeps the oil that drips into the cylinder when parked-from splashing on the plug at start up- and then the oil bakes onto the plug and car runs like ptttttt
NGK is fine
Oil on the plugs will make it run bad- you can put one of the "spark plug extender/oil cover" on those plugs (new ones)
it is a shroud that keeps the oil that drips into the cylinder when parked-from splashing on the plug at start up- and then the oil bakes onto the plug and car runs like ptttttt
#4
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
First do a Seafoam treatment- see 2nd gen - Seafoamed the ol TL
NGK is fine
Oil on the plugs will make it run bad- you can put one of the "spark plug extender/oil cover" on those plugs (new ones)
it is a shroud that keeps the oil that drips into the cylinder when parked-from splashing on the plug at start up- and then the oil bakes onto the plug and car runs like ptttttt
NGK is fine
Oil on the plugs will make it run bad- you can put one of the "spark plug extender/oil cover" on those plugs (new ones)
it is a shroud that keeps the oil that drips into the cylinder when parked-from splashing on the plug at start up- and then the oil bakes onto the plug and car runs like ptttttt
What is exactly they are called?
thanks
#6
Seafoam is also available at any parts store for 8 bucks- get 2 cans
The extenders are about the same for 2- ask parts person for help
Get 2 new plugs as well- need 1 step colder than normal with extenders
Doing the Seafoam procedure as outlined in the gen 2 thread will scour all the gunk from inside the fuel injectors, valves, piston tops etc. You put some in the oil to clean the bottem end and some in the tank to really clean the injector spray pattern- the rest goes in the maifold vac line right into the engine.
It is the SAME product used in the $99 cleaning at dealers and shops.
They just pour it in with a gallon of gas, hook into the injector inlet and
run for 20 to 30 minutes.
Do it yourself- everyone should
The extenders are about the same for 2- ask parts person for help
Get 2 new plugs as well- need 1 step colder than normal with extenders
Doing the Seafoam procedure as outlined in the gen 2 thread will scour all the gunk from inside the fuel injectors, valves, piston tops etc. You put some in the oil to clean the bottem end and some in the tank to really clean the injector spray pattern- the rest goes in the maifold vac line right into the engine.
It is the SAME product used in the $99 cleaning at dealers and shops.
They just pour it in with a gallon of gas, hook into the injector inlet and
run for 20 to 30 minutes.
Do it yourself- everyone should
#7
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Seafoam is also available at any parts store for 8 bucks- get 2 cans
The extenders are about the same for 2- ask parts person for help
Get 2 new plugs as well- need 1 step colder than normal with extenders
Doing the Seafoam procedure as outlined in the gen 2 thread will scour all the gunk from inside the fuel injectors, valves, piston tops etc. You put some in the oil to clean the bottem end and some in the tank to really clean the injector spray pattern- the rest goes in the maifold vac line right into the engine.
It is the SAME product used in the $99 cleaning at dealers and shops.
They just pour it in with a gallon of gas, hook into the injector inlet and
run for 20 to 30 minutes.
Do it yourself- everyone should
The extenders are about the same for 2- ask parts person for help
Get 2 new plugs as well- need 1 step colder than normal with extenders
Doing the Seafoam procedure as outlined in the gen 2 thread will scour all the gunk from inside the fuel injectors, valves, piston tops etc. You put some in the oil to clean the bottem end and some in the tank to really clean the injector spray pattern- the rest goes in the maifold vac line right into the engine.
It is the SAME product used in the $99 cleaning at dealers and shops.
They just pour it in with a gallon of gas, hook into the injector inlet and
run for 20 to 30 minutes.
Do it yourself- everyone should
thanks for the advice, keep them comming.
I was wondering where is the vac line for the 2.5 TL? A picture would be appreciated.
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#8
I'm nervous about Seafoamin' my '97 TL 3.2... the little grey rubber hose that I think is the right one runs up to another part of my engine nice n' tight and I worry about replacing it properly. Any advice for a not-so-enginey guy?
#9
Sorry- I am gen2 so slightly different
Should be a line coming from the back top of the engine that runs over to the fenderwell and connects to a plastic fitting and another hose. Thats on g2 cars
If you GENTLY remove this line and have the engine running a small suction will be felt.
Should be a line coming from the back top of the engine that runs over to the fenderwell and connects to a plastic fitting and another hose. Thats on g2 cars
If you GENTLY remove this line and have the engine running a small suction will be felt.
#11
I have changed the air filter recently.
I seafoamed my car last night. Only ran 1/3 of it thru brake booster, car smoked like hell.
The CEL came on also. I hope it will turn off soon.
I seafoamed my car last night. Only ran 1/3 of it thru brake booster, car smoked like hell.
The CEL came on also. I hope it will turn off soon.
#12
Normal for CEL to come on as things are changing with the cleaning- it will go off
If it remains after 2 days- disconnect battery for 5 minutes- that should clear it
If you got big smoke on 1/3 can- which is the suggested amount,
Drive a few days then do the treatment again,ok to use 1/2 can or more and put the rest in a full tank of gas.
Some people think less fuel in tank makes it work better-BUT the intended way is a slower full cleaning of things thru tank, plus a blast - solvent clean by intake vac
If it remains after 2 days- disconnect battery for 5 minutes- that should clear it
If you got big smoke on 1/3 can- which is the suggested amount,
Drive a few days then do the treatment again,ok to use 1/2 can or more and put the rest in a full tank of gas.
Some people think less fuel in tank makes it work better-BUT the intended way is a slower full cleaning of things thru tank, plus a blast - solvent clean by intake vac
#13
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Normal for CEL to come on as things are changing with the cleaning- it will go off
If it remains after 2 days- disconnect battery for 5 minutes- that should clear it
If you got big smoke on 1/3 can- which is the suggested amount,
Drive a few days then do the treatment again,ok to use 1/2 can or more and put the rest in a full tank of gas.
Some people think less fuel in tank makes it work better-BUT the intended way is a slower full cleaning of things thru tank, plus a blast - solvent clean by intake vac
If it remains after 2 days- disconnect battery for 5 minutes- that should clear it
If you got big smoke on 1/3 can- which is the suggested amount,
Drive a few days then do the treatment again,ok to use 1/2 can or more and put the rest in a full tank of gas.
Some people think less fuel in tank makes it work better-BUT the intended way is a slower full cleaning of things thru tank, plus a blast - solvent clean by intake vac
#15
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Sorry- I am gen2 so slightly different
Should be a line coming from the back top of the engine that runs over to the fenderwell and connects to a plastic fitting and another hose. Thats on g2 cars
If you GENTLY remove this line and have the engine running a small suction will be felt.
Should be a line coming from the back top of the engine that runs over to the fenderwell and connects to a plastic fitting and another hose. Thats on g2 cars
If you GENTLY remove this line and have the engine running a small suction will be felt.
Are you referring to the PCV valve ?
#16
Better to put it through the PCV than the brake booster, and to clear the CEL just disconnect your battery for 30 seconds. I would first pour the SeaFoam into a cup, then dip the PCV into it. Let the car suck enough to sputter and *almost* die, but don't let it die out. Once the idle comes back up to normal, let it suck some more. Repeat till half your can is empty. Shut down your car for 5 minutes, then start it up and drive around the block. Best to do this when it's dark and there arent' too many people around so no one thinks your car is on fire, hehe. That happened to me.
~Cheers~
~Cheers~
#17
Originally Posted by Go90go
Better to put it through the PCV than the brake booster, and to clear the CEL just disconnect your battery for 30 seconds. I would first pour the SeaFoam into a cup, then dip the PCV into it. Let the car suck enough to sputter and *almost* die, but don't let it die out. Once the idle comes back up to normal, let it suck some more. Repeat till half your can is empty. Shut down your car for 5 minutes, then start it up and drive around the block. Best to do this when it's dark and there arent' too many people around so no one thinks your car is on fire, hehe. That happened to me.
~Cheers~
~Cheers~
im waiting to seafoam.. until i have to get my oil changed... i may do the intake and gas though.. but am waiting to do it all at once so ican REALLY feel the difference
#18
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Normal for CEL to come on as things are changing with the cleaning- it will go off
If it remains after 2 days- disconnect battery for 5 minutes- that should clear it
If you got big smoke on 1/3 can- which is the suggested amount,
Drive a few days then do the treatment again,ok to use 1/2 can or more and put the rest in a full tank of gas.
Some people think less fuel in tank makes it work better-BUT the intended way is a slower full cleaning of things thru tank, plus a blast - solvent clean by intake vac
If it remains after 2 days- disconnect battery for 5 minutes- that should clear it
If you got big smoke on 1/3 can- which is the suggested amount,
Drive a few days then do the treatment again,ok to use 1/2 can or more and put the rest in a full tank of gas.
Some people think less fuel in tank makes it work better-BUT the intended way is a slower full cleaning of things thru tank, plus a blast - solvent clean by intake vac
I feel a big difference.
I will monitor the mpg and see if there's any significant gain.
#19
Blanco
Do the intake and gas tank now, and the oil right before you change it.
You will feel the differance right away, and more each day!
Read the beginning of this thread for details and leave the seafoam to sit at least 15 miutes so solvent really works in- then a good freeway blast to clean it all out
Do the intake and gas tank now, and the oil right before you change it.
You will feel the differance right away, and more each day!
Read the beginning of this thread for details and leave the seafoam to sit at least 15 miutes so solvent really works in- then a good freeway blast to clean it all out
#20
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Blanco
Do the intake and gas tank now, and the oil right before you change it.
You will feel the differance right away, and more each day!
Read the beginning of this thread for details and leave the seafoam to sit at least 15 miutes so solvent really works in- then a good freeway blast to clean it all out
Do the intake and gas tank now, and the oil right before you change it.
You will feel the differance right away, and more each day!
Read the beginning of this thread for details and leave the seafoam to sit at least 15 miutes so solvent really works in- then a good freeway blast to clean it all out
#21
Guys PCV is the plastic 'L' shape valve connected to the top part of the engine right? So basically the Seafoam gets mixed in the crankcase with oil? When do I change my oil after the Seafoam clean? And how much Seafoam goes in the gas tank and how much gas should be in the tank? Just making sure I got everything right.
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