Jeffman

Hey guys,
So I finally did my timing belt and water pump a few weeks back. I also did the valve seals, and replaced all the other small things during the process (Accessory belts, t-stat, so on).

The car ran great. For about a week, I had no problems with it. One day on my way home from work the car died (In the middle of a busy highway too!). I tried to start it back up, and I got it to fire a few times. The times I got it to fire, it would run as long as my foot was holding in the gas pedal a little bit, but as soon as I let off it would die. I had it towed home, and after playing with it for a few hours, (Eventually just holding in the gas pedel revving the engine for a few minutes), it stayed running. It ran great again, and I drove it to the store and back home, and to work the next day.

It died again on my drive home, almost in the exact same place. I had it towed home again. It hasn't fired since.

I don't appear to be getting spark on any of the cylinders. I tested the wires going to the Ignition Control Module, and they tested fine, so I replaced the module. That didn't fix the problem. I'm out of ideas.

Luckily, I don't need the car for the next few weeks, since I only live about 2 miles from work, and I work the same hours as my wife I just ride with her. I move in mid-April, and will be about 15 miles from work, so I need to have it fixed by then.

What am I missing? I'm not getting any codes. The timing is fine. I don't know what else to check. Could it be the immobilizer? If so, how do I test it or bypass it? What else would the ignition plug into to cause it to not spark?

Also, on a different note, my hazard lights don't work. My turn signals do, and when I press the hazard button, my turn signals won't work if I try them, so the switch is fine, it's something else.

Any help from you guys would be awesome! Thank you!

TexasHonda

You said you "checked wires to ignition control module". Did you chk the blk/yel wire to the ignition control module/coil? It should have 12v w/ the ignition switch in On position. If not a bad keyswitch assy. Easy repair.

If you're getting 12V and no-start, then something is missing causing the ECU to deny spark; timing signal CKP sensor; MAP sensor.

You should check that 12V charge/interrupt signals are going to Coil-over-Plugs? If no make/break voltage signals, then ECM is likely denying spark signal for some missing inputs;

good luck

Jeffman

Thanks a million, I will check that out when I get the next chance. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Jeffman

I tested everything I could think of, and I still can't figure out what is wrong. It doesn't appear to be my igniton switch, I'm getting voltage and my CEL and ALT lights come on with the ignition "ON". My coils all have continuity, and using an INNOVA code reader with real time info, it reads an RPM while trying to turn over, as well as the MAP sensor shows pressure. It's also trying to advance timing when it's turning over. That tells me it isn't the CKP sensors. I replaced the ECU with a known good one from a '97 3.2.

I don't know what else is wrong. I feel like I've tried everything. I'm going to test the ignition switch more in depth later this week, but I don't know otherwise.

Could it be the main relay, even though I hear the clicks and get fuel?

If anybody has any help I would really love it, this is really confusing me.

Jeffman

Nobody has any ideas for me?

TexasHonda

Timing should remain static during starting; at least is does on earlier Hondas staying at 15 BTDC. Anything more advanced might make starting hard/impossible.

Do you have a manual? There is a check of the timing system in the manual. PM me w/ your email and I'll forward if you don't have a manual. BTW, you need one w/ a problem like this.

good luck

Jeffman

When starting the timing is at 10 BTDC, that's what the code reader shows. It looks like it's at 0 when it's just sitting with the key in the "ON" position. I do have a manual (2, actually), I'll see if I can find the timing check. I also was going to look a little deeper at the ignition switch. I won't be able to do these until Tuesday, so I have a few days.

Can you tell me what else other than the ECU and the ICM would control the spark? Is there another module/sensor that would deny spark?

DUECEON9ER

Try this, turn key "very, very" gently about half ways and see if the engine will fire up if it does then its a bad key switch assembly very easy to fix DIY. It's sad to know people are so rough with those things.

Jeffman

Okay. I still can't get it to fire. The switch is fine. I tested the leads and I tried to turn the key gently, no go. I can't test the timing with a timing light, because the light isn't picking up from the wire it needed to be connected to on the ICM.

I did take off the driver side timing cover (The top part) and check to make sure the belt I put on was okay. It looked fine. I took out the CKP sensors and tested them with a voltmeter for resistance. This is where I got confused. They all tested fine when I had them out and placed a piece of metal over them individually and checked them. When I had them back in the car, I tried to turn the car over and tested them individually. Two of them tested fine, and two of them tested as if they were just "open", and didn't work like they should have.

Is this a likely cause to my problem?

I also will be checking next the spark plug voltage detection module to see if I can find out anything about that, and also looking at checking all the pinouts for the ECM. This car is driving me absolutely nuts!!

If ANYBODY has any more help or input for me I would love it. I'm just shooting in the dark now, I have no idea what else to look at.

Thank you!

Jeffman

*RESOLVED*

I feel like an idiot. I knew it would be something stupid.

Upon checking the wiring for voltage and continuity (All the wiring in the ignition system), something didn't add up. It was back to my initial guess when the problem started, the ignition control module. I got voltage on all the wires for the coils, and the ECU was sending a signal to spark. I did NOT get any continuity on the two grounds on the Ignition Control Module.

Sure enough, I followed them to where they ground on the fuel rail on the passenger side of the engine. I pulled that off to move the wiring harness when I did the timing belt/water pump/valve stem seals. When I put it back I must have not tigtened it very much, and for that week after the work was done it ran great. After bleeding the cooling system and getting coolant everywhere, it must have gotten in the gap and corroded. I cleaned it all off and tightened it, and the car started.

It now runs like a dream.

vas25tl

Glad you got it figured out.