Timing Belt on an RL
#1
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Timing Belt on an RL
How difficult is it to change out one of these? I figure it'd be easier on a car with a longitudinal engine than a typical transverse design. Is it true? Looking at maybe getting one of these cars and of course I'll want the belt done, but I'd rather pay $50 than over a grand, so I'd love to do it myself or have someone help me.
#2
Its not too bad. Have to remove a decent amount of things to get to the covers though. Also, best bet is to remove the radiator for the extra room. The hardest part is getting the crankshaft bolt off. Even if it was torqued properly will be a PITA to remove. Also, while in there, tensioner springs, pulleys, and WP should be replaced by default. About $600 with parts. There is a balancer belt in there as well. You have to set the timing for that properly or else there will be vibrations.
Best to have a lot of space and time. Gets a little involved with a lot of parts strewn about.
Best to have a lot of space and time. Gets a little involved with a lot of parts strewn about.
#3
Cruisin'
I changed the timing and balancer belts and two tensioner pulleys in my 2000 RL back in 2021 at 240k Km ( 149K miles ). Did not switch out he WP although the kit that I got from RockAuto had one in it. I reasoned that the work getting to the belts and pump were not bad or difficult enough that I would mind doing it again when the WP craps out later. NOTE: Most who did this job changed out the WP at the same time.
Tip: the crank pulley bolt is the only major obstacle IMO for most DIYer's. I bought the Honda crank tool from Amazon and with long cheater bar managed to loosen it ( tightening torque is 181 ft.lbs.). You'll need to remove PS pump, Alt and AC out of the way to get to the TB's covers, but no need to disconnect any PS & AC hoses. Take pictures of all vac hoses connections and I attached matching tape to each for ease of assembly later. I did not remove radiator for this work. There are write-ups and YT vids for tips/help if you do decide to take the plunge.
Tip: the crank pulley bolt is the only major obstacle IMO for most DIYer's. I bought the Honda crank tool from Amazon and with long cheater bar managed to loosen it ( tightening torque is 181 ft.lbs.). You'll need to remove PS pump, Alt and AC out of the way to get to the TB's covers, but no need to disconnect any PS & AC hoses. Take pictures of all vac hoses connections and I attached matching tape to each for ease of assembly later. I did not remove radiator for this work. There are write-ups and YT vids for tips/help if you do decide to take the plunge.
#5
Cruisin'
@Bostech All the brands (3) you noted in your post are reputable and I have use belts from all three companies in various applications in my vehicles throughout the years without any failures. FWIW I got the Dayco kit and its got an extended warranty of 125,000 miles. Thats hard to beat. Kit also came with printed instructions.
#7
No it wouldn't. It has no bearing on how the engine runs. It just balances out the natural vibrations resulting from a somewhat large displacement 90 degree V-6. The C32 engines in the Legend had no balance shaft and it is a similar design to the C35s in our RLs. However, if you incorrectly set the camshafts or crank... Lets just say poor running could be the least of your worries.
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MrVtech
2G RL (2005-2012)
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11-23-2016 08:49 AM