loudcivicboy

Hey all, new to the forum helping out a friend with an 01 RL. I've done a bit of scouring and I see that there are a few issues with the shifter getting stuck but it seems to be centered around brake light switches and/or fuses. I'm running into an issue where there are no apparent breaks in the shifter mechanism.

The car indicates gears properly when shifting from park to any gear but it does not seem to actually shift out of park. I can start the car, foot on brake and put it into drive but the wheels stay locked as if never taken out of park. I went under to where the shifter connects to the trans and there seems to be a little electrical box, module, idk something that is between the shifter and the trans. Was curious if anyone had any idea what it may do, if its possible that there is an electrical part stopping the car from shifting into any gear even though it clearly indicates its in gear.

1186KA9

Hey. Your friend has any DTCs? Check engine light or transmission indicators blinking? That might help you get closer to the answer.

1186KA9

You also check if the cable actually moves at both ends when you move the gear lever?

loudcivicboy

I'll have to double check for codes, but I don't recall any. I did notice the R light out on the dash but assumed that the bulb was out and that it didn't indicate any actual issue.

I didn't take apart the center console to see if there was a disconnect because I went straight underneath the car and where the cable attaches and it definitely was moving the little nut thing that is on the side of the trans.

1186KA9

All right. Here are some troubleshooting tables. Let me know if you need anything else.

kapikap

May sound crazy, did you check all the fuses? Have the right key? Make sure the parking brake is not on?

loudcivicboy

Alrighty, no DTC's the dash, didn't check the fuses, does have a light showing brake lamp but the brakes light up so i know the switch is fine. the parking brake was on lol but the issue was still the same :T

We were thinking the car was stuck in park although shifter moving because everything looked visually working. the shifter being put into a gear would feel as if the car was prepared to move but upon gas pedal, just revs and we weren't able to push it. We jacked it up dropped the pan and the fluid was nice and dark but nothing out of the ordinary for a 200k mile car.

The issue that we were having was moreso pinpointed down to the car maybe "fighting" itself to go back to a stopped wheel scenario? Car in the air, in drive it doesn't creep, but around 3k 3.5k rpm the wheels start to wobble to speed and the trans starts to squeak or squeal periodically and once gas is let off it comes to a halt quickly and noisily.(bad explanation I know I don't understand transmissions). basically i get the trans is dead, not really sure exactly what but its too in depth and thats enough for me

How is a trans swap on these cars? 01 RL's, is there a possibility of mismatching engines/trans? We have another parts car which seems the same but there's always the possibilty some ecu or something would stop it from being so easy.

1186KA9

You check if the brake calipers are seized? The rotors should move by hand when the car is in neutral by the studs. The non-creeping plus the wobbling makes me suspect seized front calipers. The car should go to about 10-15mph in the air with no throttle while in 1st gear. Transmission from 00-04 are identical, but check the caliper and differential first. By the way, change the gear oil. It must be done if the diff is still ok since it sounds like it was never changed.

kapikap

I had a similiar experience. One of the fuse was blown. I think it was ECU. Same symptoms, but different. Brake light was lit in dash as well. Had rough time getting car in gear, car was limp! I had to use the slit on the center console, to release from park.

A loose vacuum line will cause some craziness too!
biggest advice ever,dont throw parts at it!

Im at 265,000 miles, and 8 years of ownership.

loudcivicboy

I haven't thought to check calipers, seems wishful but know that you say it I could see that being a possibility but an unlikely one.

So in terms of trans swap at a base level is just a out and in not necessarily having to match certain vins or like trims? I just don't want a headache like my civic needing matching engines and trans together even if same years.

Speaking of diff, how would I go about "checking" that? I can do a google for the fluid and stuff so not as important of a question. dipstick? drop some other pan and look at it? another diff related thing that I'm curious about, we had the car off in the air and we could roll one wheel forward, and the other would automatically go backwards, which makes sense to me. we moved the gear lever and no change in wheels moving(whilst car is off). neutral in the air, the car still spins one wheel forward, one wheel back by hand. does that signify diff failure? or am i just uneducated?

What would be ideal is that we remove some part, and we see visually that whatever it is is torn up. I don't know what I'd be looking at in the trans unless it looks broken you feel me?

loudcivicboy

to add, we were never able to hand spin both of the wheels in the same direction

1186KA9

That is normal with an open diff. It does this to allow for different rotation speeds. Diff should be ok, but change the fluid before the car is driven. It takes 75-80w/90, but at least on mine is more than happy with Valvoline 75w140. To check it, just look in the fill plug or use a borescope. Check the calipers. They can cause a car to stop moving if they are badly seized. Pull the calipers off and see if it is dramatically easier to move the wheels by hand. To be uber sure, compress the calipers with a c-clamp and the brake pad. The pistons should move fairly easily. Do the wheels move in drive in the air when the engine is on? From what you've posted, my gut says that it isn't a failed trans for what that's worth. These don't have the notorious transmissions from the other Acuras/Hondas from the same time period.

1186KA9

All you will see though the bottom is the valve body if you just take the pan off. If ya take the pan off, then change the filter. It is held on by a couple of 10mm bolts. Removing the valve bodies is messy and complicated since taking out the valve bodies takes a bit of time. Any weird noises when the gear engages? If you can move the wheels by hand easily, then disregard the calipers being bad. Mind if ya take a video of you starting her and moving through the gears while in the air? I'd have an easier time of figuring out if it is the trans or another issue. 00-04 trans are identical, but 96-99 should be ok as well in theory. They changed the design post 99 to fix an issue with the extension shaft stripping out, but it should fit ok. Try to see what happens in all the gear positions as well. TBH until I see a video or get a more precise description, I'm kinda lost on what it is. Also take kapikap's advice and check all the fuses and relays. There are 2 fuse boxes and 2 relay boxes. Lastly, check to make sure that the shifter linkage is adjusted correctly.

1186KA9

Also check the rear calipers! Forgot to mention that. They will hang up like a mofo if they have been in service for a long time.

Kross4k

Everything seems fine brakes work, we got the car to move and drive now we’re just stuck with this sound. I got the same model from 99. Are the trans similar enough to do a swap? I’ve provided a video to see if you know what particular part or the whole thang.

1186KA9

Oh. Where is the video? Can't find it. The trans should be similar enough. Everything should bolt up ok as there were no significant changes between the years.

Kross4k

v

1186KA9

Car was running? Can't tell to much, but doesn't sound like trans to me. Get a stethoscope with a needle style end and check all around the engine and trans and see where the noise is the strongest. Does it do this in park?

1186KA9

Was the blower motor running? Kind of reminds me of a sound heard when the blower motor gets a leaf or other object in it. Doubt it is it though. Also, how did you get it to drive? It was completely stuck before right?

Kross4k

Im really not sure what could it be, the noise increases when accelerating, loudest is letting it move one its own other than the sound driving feels and acts functional.

Kross4k

v

1186KA9

Does it make the noise in gear with the car stopped?

Kross4k

Yes but it’s subtle compared to it accelerating

1186KA9

Then it is narrowed to torque converter or atf pump. Do the stall speed check that I attach and see where you land. Do it when engine and trans are warm, Follow the instructions closely or else you will have transmission damage.

1186KA9

If ya want as a potential Hail Mary, you can do a 3x drain and fill with some Castrol Import ATF and lubegard black. The 3x drain and fill consists of draining the transmission, filling it, driving it for about 10 miles, and repeating till you use about 10 quarts. If you can't drive it, put it on jack stands with the front wheels off the ground and then go through the gears a bunch of times and allowing the wheels to spin for a bit. Change the strainer if you haven't and then drain and fill the Castrol 3x and then use all of the lubegard black at the last fill. Again only if you wanna Hail Mary it. It is 70 bucks for 12 quarts of the Castrol while the lubegard is about 13 bucks. Again, it is a Hail Mary at best. For the strainer WIX58615 should be ok. You may need to use RTV for the pan though cause a lot of these kits come with the wrong pan gasket.

kapikap

Sounda like a worn out wheel bearing. Could be any wheel. One by one, including the rear, some good spins. I do recognize that sound. The wheel got HAF after a short ride.