Lanesky_OH8RDX

I don't know much about them. I have only driven on them in the company cube van when it needed its shocks/struts replaced and I was impressed. Seems to be the only company other than OEM to have a replacement for our RDX anyone ever tried them? Maybe get these for the front. KYB for the rear and eibach all around lol.

http://www.monroe.com/catalog/e-Catalog

737 Jock

I would recommend against it. I have tried Monroes as OEM replacement on my MIL's Buick and ended up returning them due to poor design and fitment. They say they are direct replacement, but the mounts were plastic instead of OEM metal, shaped differently and did not work quietly.

Taking them back off and waiting for OEMs to come in was a huge pain.

The trouble you might have is not worth the $100 or so you might save over OEM.

RangeRider49er

Anybody have information on strut replacement on 2008 RDX? I am trying to determine procedure and proper parts. I am looking at clamshell spring compressor and KYB struts and shocks. Is it best to replace isolator pads, dust covers, etc? If anyone has experience on this I would appreciate advice as I have never done this job before.

RangeRider49er

I am posting this even though I think that 737Jock is going to do a DIY on front strut replacement soon. I have been looking into doing the front strut replacement myself. The only big issue seems to be the spring! If you are replacing the strut only, then you will need a spring compressor. I looked on line and watched several videos on YouTube that generally describe the job with two different spring compressors. The clam shell seems to be a safest way to do this relatively speaking and you can get one of them online from Amazon.com for $157 here: This option seems much safer and easier to use than the two piece rods( ) for $40 that are much cheaper and much more dangerous! Choose your own poison on this one. The video I watched which does a fair job of describing the process is here: This video shows the clam shell spring compressor being used and it looks safe and easy to do.

Here is a video showing how to use the more dangerous strut compressor rods and is definitely worth watching before you choose this option:
The other option which is the way I plan on going soon is to buy the whole strut already assembled from the nearest Acura Dealer. I found the best price on this option to be $180 from two different dealers. One is a dealer in Norcross, Georgia and the other in Phoenix, Arizona. Both have the same price but the shipping will vary depending on distance of course. I called a number of local dealers and got prices running from $203 to $299 for the strut assembly! The cheaper option for me is to order online and out of state not to mention I get it delivered to my door. The obvious advantage to getting the OEM replacement strut assembly is it saves you time and is safer not to mention you don't need to buy the extra tool that you may only use one time! If you buy a new strut from KYB for instance you are going to spend at least $62 for each strut and you won't get all the other new parts like spring, dust cover, rubber mounts, bump stop, etc. You can get the whole thing already assembled and do the job much quicker, safer and easier.

The only other hitch I can see, is the removal and reattachment of the stabilizer bar to the strut. I don't know how hard that is or what concerns there are with that part of the job. Maybe an alignment after replacing the struts? The stabilizer bar attaches to the strut just below the spring dish/plate. I am waiting to see if 737Jock has any insight on that if he posts a DIY on this job. If her doesn't do one, then I will proceed anyway with the job as my car has over 120k miles on it and probably needs new shocks!

RangeRider49er

Please note that both of the above videos in my last post are for a Honda Accord, not an Acura RDX! Evidently there is a time limit on how long you have to edit your posts or I would have included this in the previous post. One shows the rear strut replacement and the other shows a front strut! The RDX looks easier to work with if you ask me but both videos are good representations of how the job should be done. They are good learning tools for anyone who hasn't done this job before like me! As noted in the videos, you can get the whole strut assembly which includes all new parts or go the route of just replacing the strut which entails using a spring compressor. Alternatively, you can remove the strut assembly and take it to your local shop and they will replace the strut for you if you bring them the new strut and you won't have to mess with the somewhat dangerous spring compression!

737 Jock

I'm replacing rear suspension links right now, so it may be another month before I get to the fronts.

As you point out, the front strut can be removed intact without compressing the spring. To disassemble struts, I have used both the rods and clamshell and the clamshell is MUCH safer. When I used to use rods to compress a spring, I always used at least 4 to reduce the load carried by any one of them -- the compressed spring is a bomb waiting to go off.

I am planning to purchase the full front struts, just because the cost is only about 80 more than the individual pieces minus the springs, and it's less bother. (Springs are a wear item too.)

737 Jock

As long as both the front wheels are off the ground (and neither suspension is compressed with a jack) there is no torsion load on the stabilizer bar. The bar can be disconnected with no problem. If the holes don't quite line up when you reconnect it, just jack the suspension a bit till they do.

The problem I found disconnecting the rear stabilizer bar link was the threads were rusted fast. No amount of PB Blaster helped and I had to cut them off. So you might want to have new links ordered as well (they are a wear item anyway).

To remove/install the links, you need to hold the shaft with a 5 mm allen and turn the nut with a 14 mm hex. A crowfoot will work, but I use the open-center sockets that gearwrench makes (very cool).

RangeRider49er

Okay, thanks for the info 737Jock. I plan on doing my front struts soon and will take some pictures and hopefully post it for a DIY. I plan on ordering a full strut assembly to make the job easier and also so that I don't have to buy a spring compressor. I will probably order an extra stabilizer link just in case I bust the bolt like you did. It is starting to sound like everything on the car is a wear item.

737 Jock

On the rear suspension, I had a #@% of a time with 17 mm bolt that holds the lower link to the knuckle. It threads into a welded nut on the lower link and no amount of PB Blaster and heat helped. I finally had to remove the knuckle and the link together and drill them apart.

The front struts should be less trouble, but watch for the damper pinch bolts on the knuckle. They are very exposed. You might want to see about having pinch bolts and nuts available (Acura strut pic, item 17 and 19) as they do not come with the strut assembly.

RangeRider49er

Okay thanks guppy jock. sorry to hear you had some consternation on the rear shocks. Do you think the rust is a result of living in a humid salt air climate? I will order the parts soon and hopefully have the job done before Thanksgiving. Thanks for the heads up. I will try to get some pictures and post my experience.

RangeRider49er

I want to correct an earlier cost estimate I posted for KYB struts for the Acura RDX. Quote: " If you buy a new strut from KYB for instance you are going to spend at least $62 for each strut and you won't get all the other new parts like spring, dust cover, rubber mounts, bump stop, etc." They (www.justsuspension.com KYB) don't have the struts listed on their web site yet as it is a new item for them. I contacted them via email and this is what they said:

"No problem sir, those front struts are $143.55 each and are in stock.
Let us know if you would like to place the order, and we can give you a call."
Thanks!

They must be really good shocks/struts! I am opting for the OEM dealer replacement strut assembly for $180 from this vendor. I will shop around some but I don't expect to find the full strut assembly for anywhere near the OEM dealer price.

RangeRider49er

Does anybody have torque values for strut assembly bolts/nuts? I don't have a shop manual and am awaiting the parts which should be here tomorrow. I could just use the good and tight method. Nah! I plan on posting the experience on another thread which I will probably entitle Front Strut Replacement or some similar title and posting the thread link here as soon as possible.

RangeRider49er

I got these from the dealer:

Pinch bolts/nuts 122 ft-lbf These are for the two large bolts that attach the damper to the knuckle sometimes called pinch nuts.

Top Stabilizer link to strut 58 ft-lbf This is the top stabilizer bar link that attaches to the strut assembly.

Strut Flange nuts 33 ft-lbf These are the 5 nuts that attach the strut assembly to the top of the strut under the hood

BTW, use these values at your own risk!

RangeRider49er

Step 6 of the strut assembly installation states: "Raise the front suspension with a floor jack to load the suspension with the vehicle's weight." I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to the best way to do this. If you have the vehicle up on jack stands as most of us diy'ers and you put a jack stand under the knuckle to raise it up to the same spring compression level, wouldn't it be easier to put the wheel on and then lower the car with the wheel turned so that you could then torque the bolts/nuts on the pinch and flange nuts? Just curious.

RangeRider49er

[quote=you put a jack stand under the knuckle to raise it up to the same spring compression level[/quote]
I meant put a floor jack under the knuckle not a jack stand!

Mr Marco

Smells like bro love in here. How about some pics (of the RDX strut R&R)

737 Jock

When I torque suspension bolts, I put the car level on 4 jack stands. This way, when jacking one suspension, it goes straight up, rather than angling off the jack. Then lift one suspension just until the car clears the jackstand at that corner (by a mm or 2) and torque those bolts. Make sure it sits back squarely on the jackstand, before continuing. Use caution and don't ever be under any part of the car.

I guess torquing with the wheel on the floor would depend on how well you can reach the pinch bolts/nuts. Before you take anything apart, you could do a test-run with the car on the floor and see if you can reach all the fasteners with your wrenches. Let us know how it works out.

Looking forward to your DIY.

ps. Waiting on a new knuckle now, to finish the rear suspension. I never could get the bolt shaft out of the lower bushing, even after cutting the lower arm off. The bushing is not a seperate part, so I had to order a new knuckle.

RangeRider49er

Okay 737Jock, will do. Thanks for the suggestion. That sounds good to me. Sorry to hear about the problem you are having. Sounds like a real pain. Hopefully I will get this job done tomorrow.

RangeRider49er

Got the parts and did the job today. The parts came in late in the afternoon and a day late to boot so I'll get out a report with pictures soon, maybe tomorrow. I will post on new thread as I think that would be better that tagging on to the end of this thread which was originally about Monroe shocks. I'll post the thread link here when I have the new thread ready.

RangeRider49er

I posted the following thread on the Acura RDX First Generation DIY! Acura RDX 2008 Front Strut/Shock Replacement It is my experience doing this job. https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-diy-faq-161/acura-rdx-2008-front-strut-shock-replacement-diy-874887/#post14187756

RangeRider49er

It looks like Mr Marco's somewhat perverse comment in #16 got expunged by the administrator? Hmmmm. It was uncalled for! Glad to see it. Thank you admin whoever you are.