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I remember some VW cars straight from the factory had spacers in the springs and dealers forgot to take em out.
ppl complained that their car almost killed them....because of the spacers .
I've seen those.
why not customize the spring rates, instead of adding a spacer.
kinda ruining the engineering aspect of the springs by adding a spacer...Thus why i was ASKING how you built them.
I wouldnt space springs, but that's just me
I'm not talking about adding a spacer between the coils. That certainly would be bad. I'm talking about adding the spacer above the spring in the rear and a spacer above the strut for the front. In this case it isn't going to effect the stock spring rate. Also, I'm talking about a 2" lift, nothing crazy like 4".
I already ordered parts and will know by this weekend if they fit. I'll keep you posted.
So I removed a rear spring tonight .
my goal is to come up with a dependable safe lift that anyone can buy and it would be best if you can buy it from Amazon .
The upper stock spring mount is glued to the uni body frame. I didn't expect that. if it wasn't , it would have been easier to make or buy a spacer.
I have the ability to machine, and weld a mount but I am trying to come up with a lift that can be purchased and installed easily .
I was disappointed to see the upper spring mount was glued to the body. however , if that mount is easily ordered, I may have a simple solution .
of course we could order custom length rear Springs and that is actually pretty cheap. if that is the route I'll post the length.
Again , I'm trying to lift it 2" with 2" taller tires.
total 3"
I would go bigger, but don't want to loose too much power from the bigger and heavier tires.
I remember some VW cars straight from the factory had spacers in the springs and dealers forgot to take em out.
ppl complained that their car almost killed them....because of the spacers .
If I am remembering that correctly, that was a plastic "anti-compression" thingy that got put in the coils to keep them from, well, compressing when the vehicles were transported. The problem came when they weren't removed during PDI (as you correctly mentioned) and then customers were noting excessively harsh rides, as would be expected when the springs don't.
So the compliance of the springs in the suspension was negated and it was essentially a stiff member (heh) at each corner.
As Stocksinks has mentioned, one of the ways to lift a vehicle is to add a spacer to the top of the suspension mount points. In a really simple sense, you're just lifting the entire body/cabin of the vehicle higher off the suspension/chassis creating more clearance in the wheel wells. The other way (arguably "better") is to actually replace the suspension with something of a different geometry, ie. longer shocks/springs to retain the factory upper mounts, ungapped, while creating that additional space in the wheel wells.
Since you're in Houston, look at the next brodozer you come across. The loud Monster Energy drink stickered one with garish colors all over and ridiculously high lift. Chances are you'll see a huge stack of metal on the rear axle,looking like a stack of bricks, held in place with a stupidly long looking u-bolt. That's a spacer. The front end will likely have a giant metal hockey puck looking thing at the top of the strut. That's the spacer.
All they're doing is moving the suspension further away from the cabin to allow Jimmy Flatbill to run his 24" matte black MetalFuel wheels with the star shaped center cap.
Well I had some scrap metal laying around so I made the spacers needed for the front. (I still have to make the rears)
I made my spacers 1.800" This gave me 2 inches of lift when measures at the fender.
I added cam bolts to adjust camber and had it aligned.
The tires are Yokohama iceguard .255/60R18 TIRES ARE 2" TALLER THAN STOCK. They do NOT rub, but is close.
I will make the rear lift this weekend and add more pictures.
Sorry I couldn't find a kit that anyone could purchase and install themselves.
Oh, I also added 1 inch wheel spacers for looks. The rear does NOT have them installed yet. I will install them when I build the rear lift.
not exactly what I bought, but similar
So basically a 3" lift when all is said and done? Curious to hear your impressions on how this affects overall vehicle dynamics. Hopefully the added track width will help offset the added height in terms of handling (not that you'll be attacking corners or anything). Gearing isn't *too* much longer, but it's already annoyingly tall for my taste. Nice job whipping together the spacers though, looks pretty clean!
So what is the purpose of this lift? Are you planning on getting bigger and wider wheels / tires?
As I wrote in the description " 2" taller tires" This is my winter vehicle up in Minnesota. I just wanted more clearance for the snow and a more aggressive look. ,
So basically a 3" lift when all is said and done? Curious to hear your impressions on how this affects overall vehicle dynamics. Hopefully the added track width will help offset the added height in terms of handling (not that you'll be attacking corners or anything). Gearing isn't *too* much longer, but it's already annoyingly tall for my taste. Nice job whipping together the spacers though, looks pretty clean!
So far the handling seems fine, but I don't like the way the taller tires effected my gearing. Now at 60 mph it wants to downshift too easily. I wonder if a computer tune can change my shift points?
get flash pro and a down pipe this should make your setup much more responsive. more TQ at lower RPMs . get a tune also
it should be noted with larger heavier tires you should upgrade the transmission cooler in order to have the transmission live a longer life.
Well I finished the lift on my RDXXX.
2" suspension lift and 2" taller tires .
for the rear, I had to make a 2 piece system .
Hopefully the picture help visualize .
Tapered centering post Welded both sides Machined lift spacer Machined taper Upper post is on the rdx. Spacer plate fits over the centering post The 2 plates are bolted together with stainless bolts Factory rubber spring cup fits on new post I know this was dangerous.
Used a strap wrapped around the coil spring with the weight of the vehicle compressing it. Then when i jacked up the frame, the spring stayed compressed allowing the space needed to install the spacer.
DON'T DO THIS. I WAS PROBABLY LUCKY THAT THE STRAP HELD. I think they should have offered a model like this.
" />3" total lift.
I think they should have offered a model like this.
Just wanted to stop back by and say "that's awesome!" Nice work.
Do you have your own lathe and mill or is that an "off-the-clock" work shop? There are so many things I would love to have a lot more money, space, and knowledge to do... Even a simple lathe and mill would go a long way towards it, so I'm a little bit envious!
Just wanted to stop back by and say "that's awesome!" Nice work.
Do you have your own lathe and mill or is that an "off-the-clock" work shop? There are so many things I would love to have a lot more money, space, and knowledge to do... Even a simple lathe and mill would go a long way towards it, so I'm a little bit envious!
thanks. It's just a cheap lathe mill combo that I have in my garage
I just put a set of these bad boys on my rig, living up in the north east, we need a little bit more traction/clearance... no rubbing or drivability issues thus far. It really is only a 3% difference on size but if you are looking to jack up your rig or put bigger tires- these fit on stock 18 in rims
I just put a set of these bad boys on my rig, living up in the north east, we need a little bit more traction/clearance... no rubbing or drivability issues thus far. It really is only a 3% difference on size but if you are looking to jack up your rig or put bigger tires- these fit on stock 18 in rims
post a picture of your RDX sitting on these things please.
I love my 2007 Blue RDX, but agree that it's a little too low (ground clearance) and looks funny with wheels that don't fully fill out the wheel wells.
More pics and ideas are welcome. 2" sounds perfect. Nice work!!
HRG Engineering makes a nice spacer lift (1.5-2”).
Im currently using it and just ordered custom rear springs with a little lift and stiffer spring rate. Also about to buy bigger tires to go with some 16” wheels.
So, it's time to replace the front shock assembly and the rear shock absorbers on my wife's 2007 Acura RDX. I already ordered the parts and they're in transit.
However, with all of this extra work, I'm debating on if I want to install a 2" lift from HRG. Does anyone have any feedback as to whether or not it was worth it? How has this kit been holding up? I've always thought the 1st gen RDX sat a bit too low. This kit makes them look more like an SUV, rather than a station wagon. I'd love to hear some feedback .
Additionally, I'm finding it difficult to locate a rear spring replacement DIY. Are spring compressors the only way to remove/reinstall the rear springs? It looks as if the rear springs simply seat themselves between the upper rubber mounting plate and the rear spring seat. Is this correct?
The only function of the bolt I see is that it holds the rear spring mount collar to the upper rubber mounting plate.
12-03-2016, 10:20 AM
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