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I have 2010 Acura RDX 140000 km on it. Is it normal to feel every thing when the gear change? Also when 1st drive 1st to 2 nd gear hard shift until you drive few blocks. Fluid has been changed. Color is good, Fluid level is good
The transmission is robust, but it does not shift nearly as smoothly as most cars made within the last few years (especially anything with the ZF 8-speed). Also yes, when the fluid is cold it is normal for the shifts to be a little stiffer than normal - especially the 1-2 shift. The car shouldn't be bucking though, and you shouldn't be hearing any abnormal noises (banging, clunking, etc). If you do, have the car looked at to be safe.
Also, you'd be surprised at how much the engine mounts absorb the shifting of gears. As the miles tack on, the mounts will slowly wear and allow a little more jiggle from the transmission and engine, which will make the shifts feel rougher than they are. That said, at your mileage they should be fine. I have twice much distance as you on my 2010 and the mounts don't seem ready for replacement just yet.
Thank you for the replay. Suv does not making any noise and it shift gears as it suppose to but you will feel every gear when it changes. and 2nd to 1st gear when downshift. Took it to the dealer tech test drove it said everything is good and it shifts as i suppose to. I was very close to trade the car in. I have an old toyota you dont even feel when it changes gears it has 300000 km on it. As long as it normal i good. I just love the RDX how it drives ect.
I have 2010 Acura RDX 140000 km on it. Is it normal to feel every thing when the gear change? Also when 1st drive 1st to 2 nd gear hard shift until you drive few blocks. Fluid has been changed. Color is good, Fluid level is good
* no, it is not normal in average conditions. Have a 2008 base@280k km in Canada with 3 new pressure switches installed @ 215k km, soon after I got the car.
Found that new fluid DW1 would last for me only some 4-6k km, 2-3 months driving for me during summer/fall before a harder 4-3 downshift would return. (this after another two recent DW1 changes).
So I had to experiment with a different fluid, Redline D6, one single drain and refill lasted just about 26k km, ymmv.
I blame the implied deterioration on my stop&go driving pattern that seemed to push the transmission fluid above its normal operating temp, unlike highway driving above 65k/h that quickly cools it off, YMMV.
Still have hard shifting like described but only during v cold winter days, say below -15C, and only during a quick stop&turn, cant feel much of any gear upshifts/changes otherwise.
Originally Posted by Tomtwtwtw
The transmission is robust, but it does not shift nearly as smoothly as most cars made within the last few years (especially anything with the ZF 8-speed). Also yes, when the fluid is cold it is normal for the shifts to be a little stiffer than normal - especially the 1-2 shift. The car shouldn't be bucking though, and you shouldn't be hearing any abnormal noises (banging, clunking, etc). If you do, have the car looked at to be safe.
Also, you'd be surprised at how much the engine mounts absorb the shifting of gears. As the miles tack on, the mounts will slowly wear and allow a little more jiggle from the transmission and engine, which will make the shifts feel rougher than they are. That said, at your mileage they should be fine. I have twice much distance as you on my 2010 and the mounts don't seem ready for replacement just yet.
I can vouch for engine mounts effect on transmissions gear changes. I changed them because the engine play seemed too much to my mechanic when I asked him to check, I could not tell before the change that slight noises, gear shifts were abnormal, only after their disappearance it became obvious that they were present and abnormal. For the record I still have to do the transmission mount, probably original as well.
Originally Posted by shandias
...it shift gears as it suppose to but you will feel every gear when it changes. and 2nd to 1st gear when downshift. Took it to the dealer tech test drove it said everything is good and it shifts as i suppose to...
no, it does not shift gears as it is supposed to, you are not supposed to feel every gear when it changes, so not everything is good.
thats what i thought you shouldn't fell every gear when it changes. Something is not right took to the dealers twice they said everything is good. I was reading about reset transmission computer where all the driving habits saved in. I bought the car used may be it adjusted to the previous owner's driving habits. Also i thoght you're not suppose to use only honda tranny fluids
Different opinions on the matter. I've had mine for 6 years driven it 130k miles (had 45k when I bought it), and the transmission behavior and feel hasn't changed. I personally have no concerns driving mine across the country tomorrow. It has been trouble-free in the time I've had it, and I've done fluid changes as per the factory recommendations. The only non-maintenance work it has needed is a new battery terminal (corrosion...my fault for not cleaning it properly) and replacement of the turbo actuator bolt. Some folks believe in over-kill maintenance, and that's ok, but it's just not my cup of tea.
true, but in my case obviously fluid was not working for me and my specific driving pattern.
So it was either find a fluid that did or end up with a broken transmission in a hurry. I was lucky and had found specific reasons to do it and tests to monitor the results after the change in fluid before and after.
Based on the timing of changes to my car, I can indicate it was specifically only the engine mounts that almost eliminated the harder shift 3-4 no other change at the same time, while using the same honda DW1, and BEFORE refilling with REDLINE 1-2 weeks later.
New pressure switches were already installed long before, so by themselves did not prevent or cause my symptoms, though I believe old ones could easily aggravate similar symptoms.
Dealer tech may have been technically correct regarding the transmission. As I said ask a second question elsewhere: are engine mounts in good condition? I ordered ebay kit for the 3 mounts for much less than dealer price for the cheapest single mount, they may require slight extra adaptation.
Transmission adaptation seems to adapt to the driver average style, best way I can describe it is around shift points: if driver is regularly impatient and pushes the car quickly, the shifts are quicker and at higher RPM points. Demonstrate "driving Miss Daisy" and I am sure it will lazily take its time while shifting at lower/lowest possible RPM levels.
Or switch to "S" position to feel it aggresive around town, be careful it maxes out in 4th, even above 80 k/h on the highway, still no significant perception of gear shifting in my case. Disconnect the battery for about 10' and it will likely reset the transmission adaption if any from previous driver in your case.
hence I noted your mileage may vary.
Good luck and keep us posted
I keep changing the different transmission pressure switches since they throw a transmission code for me. Also my truck drives better with the fresh oil in the transmission. Also letting it warm up and then keeping it in the middle range of the dash temperature gauge seems to help. The transmission is just old school and likes to clunk/roll into gear. It’s not a cvt which is a one gear belt lmfao
I am lean towards Transmission mount how hard is it replace them? I am going to take the air box out and see if the if any damage to the rubber or play in it
I took the car to a different dealer and the tech test drove it with me and said it shifts normal. Its wired some days it shifts very smooth some days you feel every shift. May be i am over thinking this. I notice one thing these Acura Techs when the test drive they drive the suv hard. I dont push it that hard lol. I also asked about transmission issue in these Acura suvs. He said very rare. Transmissions are solid in these suv
Check this out https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-...-broke-901820/
- You might be loosing transmission oil gradually, and you are not noticing it. Check if your radiator transmission line might be rusted or corroded.
If this is the case you will need to replace your whole radiator ahead.
An update changed spark plugs this weekend with OEM NGK plugs. Took the air box housing out and found out there is a little crack with a slight bent in the air box housing right after the Mass air flow sensor. Found a replacment housing in replaced it. now car drives much better not sure what fixed it spark plugs or the air box housing and no idea how the housing got damaged .
An update ... Took the air box housing out and found out there is a little crack with a slight bent in the air box housing right after the Mass air flow sensor. Found a replacment housing in replaced it. now car drives much better not sure what fixed it spark plugs or the air box housing and no idea how the housing got damaged .
Nice find! Must have been unmetered air, engine angle varries with sudden acceleration... in my case the intake boot was ripped some 3 inches but drove smoothly after new plugs, only later I blamed the engine mounts after they were changed.
05-25-2020, 05:04 PM
