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I wouldn't say that it's incorrect. If he had success, it must be doable. Based on what I experienced, it is very feasible with a good deal of patience and persistence.
A friend stopped by yesterday. Between the two of us, we managed to wrap the wire rope (1/16" stainless steel) around the lever and the actuator arm similar to 86j's post. Put everything back together save the intercooler cover and out for a 15 minute test drive. Only rev'd up the turbo twice with no code pop - where it would pop with the first rev of the turbo prior to lashing the lever and arm together - so I'm hopeful this is was the only issue.
Getting the wire rope secured:
It was a combination of two very long hemostats and a small needle nose vice grip that were needed to get the wire rope in place. It's very resistant to being bent. It did require two wraps. We used two retainers - one to get control of the running and standing ends of the 'rope' and a second to allow a firm grip to put tension on the line prior to securing the second anchor; necessary to take out all the play between the lever and the worn actuator linkage. We were going to leave both anchors on but there isn't enough room for two as the outside anchor would be bound by the heat shield.
Only lost 1 10mm wrench - buried somewhere below the block and chassis. Bonus though, I now have an extra 10mm bolt. It'll come in handy as some point in the future I'm sure.
This is certainly a temporary fix - hoping temporary means 2 years. The proper fix in my mind is correcting the linkage. Seems to me a better option would be a sealed bearing over the shaft on the lever versus the metal on metal contact with the actuator arm.
Hope this helps future RDX'ers searching for solutions to their turbo problems.
the metal shaft freely spins, not sure why thenpart wears so badly/
I wouldn't say that it's incorrect. If he had success, it must be doable. Based on what I experienced, it is very feasible with a good deal of patience and persistence.
A friend stopped by yesterday. Between the two of us, we managed to wrap the wire rope (1/16" stainless steel) around the lever and the actuator arm similar to 86j's post. Put everything back together save the intercooler cover and out for a 15 minute test drive. Only rev'd up the turbo twice with no code pop - where it would pop with the first rev of the turbo prior to lashing the lever and arm together - so I'm hopeful this is was the only issue.
Getting the wire rope secured:
It was a combination of two very long hemostats and a small needle nose vice grip that were needed to get the wire rope in place. It's very resistant to being bent. It did require two wraps. We used two retainers - one to get control of the running and standing ends of the 'rope' and a second to allow a firm grip to put tension on the line prior to securing the second anchor; necessary to take out all the play between the lever and the worn actuator linkage. We were going to leave both anchors on but there isn't enough room for two as the outside anchor would be bound by the heat shield.
Only lost 1 10mm wrench - buried somewhere below the block and chassis. Bonus though, I now have an extra 10mm bolt. It'll come in handy as some point in the future I'm sure.
This is certainly a temporary fix - hoping temporary means 2 years. The proper fix in my mind is correcting the linkage. Seems to me a better option would be a sealed bearing over the shaft on the lever versus the metal on metal contact with the actuator arm.
Hope this helps future RDX'ers searching for solutions to their turbo problems.
You could also just loosen the lock nut and unscrew to extend the worn part then relighted the lock nut. Only issue with either of these fixes is that the part will eventually wear right threw and there was not much material left on the bottom of mine.
Replaced the turbo w/ a used to fix this at 130k. Now it’s back at 260k. Going to send an email to the guy in Canada. Still have the old turbo so am going to take that part and send it to get it fixed and then swap it. Thank you to those sharing how to fix it versus replace the turbo. When I swap it what is the correct adjustment on the nut? Did not see that mentioned.
110k on mine, and while on the highway the P2263 "Check Emission System" and a separate SH-AWD error both popped within minutes of each other. I am so thankful that people have identified this VGT actuator issue. Mine does have some slop (as seen in the attached photo). I'm taking it into my dealer today for some formal diagnosis. I'm also taking a bunch of highlighted printed forum posts, which I'm probably going to wave at them like a dude with a crazy conspiracy theory. I can't hear a rattle while driving, my turbo spools up and down seemingly normal, I didn't hear any noises or clunks when the errors popped. I'm just rev limited to 5k right now and sometimes my AWD system stops sending power to the rear wheels (FWD only), so I'm hoping it's just a sensor or this actuator.
Anyway... I'll get some formal diagnosis done, maybe it's a sensor problem too, but I am super happy that we have a friend in Canada who is fabricating the actuators, and even better.... I can probably replace it in an hour without removing the turbo. I'll see how it goes at the dealership today...
I'll be keeping this thread in mind. I recently bought a 2012 with 76k so I am reading up on anything and everything I can. I plan on some upgrades in the next year or so but want to make sure everything is good baseline before investing into mods.
the metal shaft freely spins, not sure why thenpart wears so badly/
Wire rope stopped working about three days after the test drive. I'm guessing the heat expanded the wire rope too much for it to hold tightly. The lights would go off after about 15 minutes of driving.
Part wear is due to bad design. I've pulled the part out and it's obvious where the problem lies. The waste gate plunger is fixed, not flexible, and the valve lever itself travels in an arc. In that scenario, any foreign matter built up on the areas where it connects acts as an abrasive where there is high pressure contact.
I have another question. A poster mentioned the dimensions of a part being rebuilt as an M7x1 with a .585" opening. What year vehicle did that come off?
The measurements from the part I pulled off a 2008 is an M6x1 with a 15.25mm opening. Perhaps Honda's short term fix was just a larger part on the newer year models?
That's what I'm curious about since the dimensions on mine are different than those in an earlier post.
I guess whomever needs this part will just need to send it to Darren G in Canada or that fabricator in the US to have the proper one made. How aggravating.
Thanks, so do we know if the part he made actually works?
have had it installed since the original post I made with the original rebuilt part by Darren and have not received any codes since. It is working flawlessly.
I ordered the replacement VGT actuator part from him as well. The dealer confirmed what I thought. It's worn, it throws the codes, the part isn't sold separately, and the official Acura policy is to replace the whole turbo ($7700, my independent trusted non-Acura shop quoted me $6600)
Darren sells the new part for $300 US shipped, or you can ship him yours and he'll refurbish it for the same price.
My RDX stopped throwing the codes for now, but I'm sure that's only because I'm keeping the RPMs under 4k until I can put the replacement part in.
I ordered the replacement VGT actuator part from him as well. The dealer confirmed what I thought. It's worn, it throws the codes, the part isn't sold separately, and the official Acura policy is to replace the whole turbo ($7700, my independent trusted non-Acura shop quoted me $6600)
Darren sells the new part for $300 US shipped, or you can ship him yours and he'll refurbish it for the same price.
My RDX stopped throwing the codes for now, but I'm sure that's only because I'm keeping the RPMs under 4k until I can put the replacement part in.
The part can be taken off and the replacement put on with a little patience. I suggest tying string or small rope to the threaded part during removal and install, that little sucker can get away from you easily and difficult to find. What I did for install is use the string/rope to assist with lining up the threaded part to screw it in. Shouldn’t take more than an hour.
The part can be taken off and the replacement put on with a little patience. I suggest tying string or small rope to the threaded part during removal and install, that little sucker can get away from you easily and difficult to find. What I did for install is use the string/rope to assist with lining up the threaded part to screw it in. Shouldn’t take more than an hour.
I haven't really looked under there. What parts need to be taken off to access it other than the intercooler?
It's been done, so I know it works. I'll take some pictures when I do it. No promises on quality of write-up.
I'm still waiting on the part to come in.
Side note: Midwest Turbo in Illinois can likely refurbish this for you too, if you send in the part. Contact Jason (Turbocharger product manager) at 815-512-7402 for info.
They called me back while I was waiting on the part.
I posted in this thread a few years ago when I had my 2008 rdx post #58 lol. While I never had this issue come up before I traded it in I have recently had a real want to buy another one so I've come to see what's been happening with this issue. I see it's still alive and kicking and I'm pleased to see the some successes in getting this fixed. Since I would like to get another 1st gen RDX I'm wondering if anyone has considered using a heim joint setup instead of returning to the same rod in softer metal hole scenario? Or would the spherical bearing in a heim joint not hold up to the heat? I'm mechanically savvy as part of my career so I dont mind putting in the work to help find a solid solution to maybe have one of these K23's hit 500k kms. Haha. I've attached an image of a heim joint for those who don't know what I'm going on about.
I posted in this thread a few years ago when I had my 2008 rdx post #58 lol. While I never had this issue come up before I traded it in I have recently had a real want to buy another one so I've come to see what's been happening with this issue. I see it's still alive and kicking and I'm pleased to see the some successes in getting this fixed. Since I would like to get another 1st gen RDX I'm wondering if anyone has considered using a heim joint setup instead of returning to the same rod in softer metal hole scenario? Or would the spherical bearing in a heim joint not hold up to the heat? I'm mechanically savvy as part of my career so I dont mind putting in the work to help find a solid solution to maybe have one of these K23's hit 500k kms. Haha. I've attached an image of a heim joint for those who don't know what I'm going on about.
Thanks
Lane
The problem with this fix is the hardened material used in the helm joint would wear the .585" shaft it mounts on which is even harder to access and fix. If both were designed to work together this would be the way to go. I have seen Turbo diesels designed this way probably last a very long time but have a properly designed mounting shaft.
I have yet to put the car through its paces and see if the error returns, but according to others this is the fix if your VGT actuator is worn. In a few days I'll put my car through the paces on the highway for an hour to see if the error comes back. I can tell you that the old piece was VERY worn (another year and it may have worn completely off of the linkage), and I was able to install this without removing anything except the intercooler shroud off (4 bolts)
Here's a basic summary:
1. Run wire through old actuator so you don't lose it once it's loose
2. Both the locking bolt and the collar/barrel on the actuator's threaded rod are 10mm. The bottom one functions as a locking nut, the top one is a "barrel" which stays with the valve. Hold the top barrel with one 10MM wrench, loosen the bottom "lock" nut COUNTERCLOCKWISE from your perspective. Now the barrel can be turned.
3. Using a 10mm wrench, twist the upper/barrel CLOCKWISE from your persepective until it's off the VGT actuator's threaded rod. Stop twisting IMMEDIATELY after it's off; this barrel backs up into another threaded rod, and if you get the old one off and the new one on without twisting the barrel excessively while disconnected, the gap/distance *should* remain about the same after you're done with this job.
4. There's a C-clip holding the VGT actuator onto the linkage. Spin the clip around (I had to use a screwdriver) until you can see the part of the clip that has a slot. Run wire through the slot, wrap tightly so you don't lose it, and use a screwdriver on that slot to pop it off the linkage. Save the C-clip, then wiggle the VGT actuator off.
5. Reassemble in reverse order. Make sure your stuff has wire attached so you can fish it out if you drop it (you will). First up, put the old nut all the way onto the new VGT actuator, wrap wire around the threads between the nut and the actuator. Put the it back onto the linkage (stick the hole onto the rod). Then put the C-clip in place. It's kind of a bitch to get back on. My buddy managed to get it set in place, then pop it completely on using a screwdriver.
6. Reconnect the VGT actuator's threaded rod to the 10MM barrel. Remember, don't twist the barrel too much without being connected. Grab the VGT actuator's threaded rod with vice grips, pull it up against the barrel and hold it there. Back the barrel off a couple turns clockwise to help seat it, then turn counterclockwise to thread it down. If it doesn't thread in within a few turns, back the barrel off to your starting position (so your total length will be right) and try again.
7. Your locking nut should be near the bottom of your VGT's threaded rod. Get the barrel down nice and far over the threaded rod, then snug up the locking nut. Remove all of the wires you've got hanging off of your stuff and you're done.
This is the same thing I'm finding on my Acura 2008 RDX
CEL and SHAWD come on after driving for a little distance, say about 3 miles
The square black thing that is at the end the shaft coming from wastegate actuator has become an oval one like you described.. I just made the locknut assembly shorter 9 tightened it = anti-clockwise when you are looking down at the waste gate actuator).. I drove about 10 miles on the highway.. the CEL and SHAWD did not come on ( which usually would have at that distance of travel)...
When adjusting the locknut assembly, I had loosened the top and below nuts quite a bit and suddenly found locknut assembly coming apart into three pieces : 1) the part connected to wastergate actuator diaphragm, 2) the adjustable part, 3) the square black part ( does anyone know what this is called so that I can see if it is available online or some parts place) that has become an oval shaped with wear and tare.. I could not see anything ( but did not lose anything down either) and slowly threaded all of them together.. Here are the pics of how I found this wastegate assembly when I first popped the hood.. and how much I tightened it...
will report if the CEL and SHAWD light up again...
Thanks pwu_1 and itcjim...
pwu_1: Thanks for the quick tip at the end of your post that we could quickly check this issue by pressing on that arm to see what moves ( vertical shaft and wastegate arm)
I've been getting the "Check Engine, Check Emissions and Check SH-AWD" lights occasionally and randomly since I got my RDX almost 3 years ago at 175K miles. I've also gotten a "Check Transmission" warning once too, a couple of months ago.
Everything ^^^ here ^^^ comes back as a "Lean A/F Ratio". ?
I've been leaking between 1/3 quart and 1 quart daily, not sure from where, and my vtec seems to not engage.
I also noticed the boost gauge goes to full boost when I am throttling on the highway but the engine won't rev above 3K without a downshift, and the pull in 4th and 5th gear with turbo at full boost feels incredibly weak.
It's like the turbo is slipping. (Best way to describe it)
Also, driving gently around town, the turbo will engage and sound normal but the boost gauge sometimes doesn't register boost. I'm maybe at 1/10th throttle when doing this.
At 1/4 - 1/2 throttle, the turbo feels strong and shifs occour at or around 4K RPM as usual.
Yesterday, when getting on the interstate, it felt rough and the boost gauge kept going up without accelerating. Just cruising at 60 mph, felt a little jerky and boost was almost 1/2 way without throttle and cruising on flat ground. (I wasn't driving/narrative of driver)
I also had to accelerate to prevent from catching a red last month. I went to throttle about 1/4 way to accelerate from about 40mph to 45mph to clear the intersection (too close to stop), and when I did, it revved to about 3K rpm, made a deep/low town grawl or whine with a faint grind, then rpm's dropped to about 1K, then back up to normal, about 1200 rpm. At no point did the car accelerate and it felt like what I'd imagine to be a tranny slip.
Has not done this since. That was Thanksgiving Day.
Having oil leak checked out in a couple of weeks, so, we shall see on that. Been adding oil 2-3 times a week.
Throttle position can sometimes feel a little odd. Sometimes it takes off a bit hard for light throttle application, but I think it may just be the nature of the turbo...
What's maybe going on here, I feel like I may be loosing boost at higher turbo speeds through the wastegate.
That's, like, a lot of things
I'd bet you have that worn actuator connector issue, and also other problems. Take that to a shop for real diagnostics, man. Don't let internet jockeys try to diagnose multiple issues involving leaking, slipping, and error codes from here... at a minimum I'd ask them to find the leak and look for other problems. If the leak is something they can fix, and you can replace that actuator piece (which throws the emission/engine/SHAWD errors) yourself, it sounds like a good option but I'd see what they find...
First, I'd like to thank everyone that has contributed to this thread. I have gotten a lot of good information off of it and other threads.
I don't usually post unless I have something to add. My experience is a lot like other's who have posted on here. It's like a stereotype for this issue. '08 RDX with 119k miles experiencing code P2263. Has come on several times when on the highway going up hill. I'll reset it and It'l go a couple weeks before the dashboard lights up again. Car drives fine otherwise. I don't have a good base performance because I have not had the car long.
I found this thread, then starting digging around to check the easy stuff. First go-around I cleaned the IC and air filter, checked hoses and tried to get a handle on how the wastegate actuator looked. Of course, the engine light came back several weeks later.
Second go-around I re-checked everything and dug a little deeper. I stuck my phone in and took a picture to get a better view. When I took a look at it, the infamous bolt looked a little different than the others I have seen on here.
I bought the car a year ago in a private transaction from a younger guy. It already had 115k miles. The guy also happened to be a mechanic and knew his stuff when it came to the maintenance. I think he did a fix that involved welding a washer to the back of the square bolt. His fix worked for 1+ years, and now I'm left to deal with it.
Something to consider if anyone is thinking of buying one of these with higher miles. Can anyone speak to the actual fix (replacing the bolt with a machined one)? How long has it lasted? The Canadian guy still selling the custom made bolt?
First, I'd like to thank everyone that has contributed to this thread. I have gotten a lot of good information off of it and other threads.
I don't usually post unless I have something to add. My experience is a lot like other's who have posted on here. It's like a stereotype for this issue. '08 RDX with 119k miles experiencing code P2263. Has come on several times when on the highway going up hill. I'll reset it and It'l go a couple weeks before the dashboard lights up again. Car drives fine otherwise. I don't have a good base performance because I have not had the car long.
I found this thread, then starting digging around to check the easy stuff. First go-around I cleaned the IC and air filter, checked hoses and tried to get a handle on how the wastegate actuator looked. Of course, the engine light came back several weeks later.
Second go-around I re-checked everything and dug a little deeper. I stuck my phone in and took a picture to get a better view. When I took a look at it, the infamous bolt looked a little different than the others I have seen on here.
I bought the car a year ago in a private transaction from a younger guy. It already had 115k miles. The guy also happened to be a mechanic and knew his stuff when it came to the maintenance. I think he did a fix that involved welding a washer to the back of the square bolt. His fix worked for 1+ years, and now I'm left to deal with it.
Something to consider if anyone is thinking of buying one of these with higher miles. Can anyone speak to the actual fix (replacing the bolt with a machined one)? How long has it lasted? The Canadian guy still selling the custom made bolt?
Thanks again!
I am still making the replacements they are Lifetime unlimited warranty. Here is a picture of the finished product. Feel free to contact me at 905-320-5191 text or talk Email: lrt350@gmail.com.
09-08-2018, 04:59 PM
