P2263 Turbo problems
05-25-2018, 09:05 AM
#201
Cruisin'
Sigh... you are absolutely right.
I discovered this fact on my own after talking to the very helpful guys at Blouch - he says for RDX, there are only two options:
So... in that case, I'm going to buy an OEM for $2.4K (
) from buyautoparts.com (https://www.buyautoparts.com/1/1/114...900rwca01.html).
Has anybody had any experience buying parts from buyautoparts.com? BBB gives them an A+ rating but there's a slew of negative reviews on them (https://www.bbb.org/sdoc/business-re...ection=reviews)
I discovered this fact on my own after talking to the very helpful guys at Blouch - he says for RDX, there are only two options:
- 1. send them your own turbo to be rebuilt and upgraded (this requires that your turbo be in working shape which doesn't apply to me)
- 2. buy OEM
So... in that case, I'm going to buy an OEM for $2.4K (
) from buyautoparts.com (https://www.buyautoparts.com/1/1/114...900rwca01.html). Has anybody had any experience buying parts from buyautoparts.com? BBB gives them an A+ rating but there's a slew of negative reviews on them (https://www.bbb.org/sdoc/business-re...ection=reviews)
06-18-2018, 03:44 PM
#206
Only place that sells them online says now out of stock - but they will collect your money before they let you know that.
Ended up finding a machine shop that works with stainless steel and brought the worn part (circle that is now an oval) to them to recreate the part for me. Will then screw back on to the waste gate actuator and hope that solves my problem.
Ended up finding a machine shop that works with stainless steel and brought the worn part (circle that is now an oval) to them to recreate the part for me. Will then screw back on to the waste gate actuator and hope that solves my problem.
06-19-2018, 06:04 AM
#207
Surprised no one is making the part if that is the only thing that wears on these turbos causing an entire replacement. Please tell us how much the shop charges and could you ask them if they are willing to make more if we contact them? Tks!
06-19-2018, 08:20 AM
#208
told me no more then $300 as they have IE. min labor costs etc...... They are hand making the piece. Should pick up this week and have put on next week. Will speak with the machinist and see if this is something he could produce more of for others. If so, i'll post his contact details.
06-19-2018, 07:14 PM
#209
6th Gear
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
told me no more then $300 as they have IE. min labor costs etc...... They are hand making the piece. Should pick up this week and have put on next week. Will speak with the machinist and see if this is something he could produce more of for others. If so, i'll post his contact details.
06-19-2018, 09:53 PM
#210
told me no more then $300 as they have IE. min labor costs etc...... They are hand making the piece. Should pick up this week and have put on next week. Will speak with the machinist and see if this is something he could produce more of for others. If so, i'll post his contact details.
06-20-2018, 06:08 AM
#211
New piece on right
price went up to $425 - so much labor and had to do drawings- probably cheaper for others now that I paid for drawings. Another issue is that the screw is left hand thread-( nothing simple). They ended up making the thread out of same piece so no weld like original. ALSO need to make sure you measure your post that the piece fits on. Mine had a lip around outer edge where piece did not rub - my post "center" had smaller measurement so submit your largest measurement of your post.
The following 2 users liked this post by Brad Strouse:
Pacer (07-06-2020),
superblast (08-14-2018)
The following users liked this post:
Pacer (07-06-2020)
06-20-2018, 06:45 AM
#213
6th Gear
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
New piece on right
price went up to $425 - so much labor and had to do drawings- probably cheaper for others now that I paid for drawings. Another issue is that the screw is left hand thread-( nothing simple). They ended up making the thread out of same piece so no weld like original. ALSO need to make sure you measure your post that the piece fits on. Mine had a lip around outer edge where piece did not rub - my post "center" had smaller measurement so submit your largest measurement of your post.
06-20-2018, 09:11 AM
#215
6th Gear
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's great to hear. Please update us when you find out if the piece works or not. I've been looking to get one made and if it works I'll have to give your guy's a call for a price.
06-21-2018, 06:01 AM
#216
New piece on right
price went up to $425 - so much labor and had to do drawings- probably cheaper for others now that I paid for drawings. Another issue is that the screw is left hand thread-( nothing simple). They ended up making the thread out of same piece so no weld like original. ALSO need to make sure you measure your post that the piece fits on. Mine had a lip around outer edge where piece did not rub - my post "center" had smaller measurement so submit your largest measurement of your post.
price went up to $425 - so much labor and had to do drawings- probably cheaper for others now that I paid for drawings. Another issue is that the screw is left hand thread-( nothing simple). They ended up making the thread out of same piece so no weld like original. ALSO need to make sure you measure your post that the piece fits on. Mine had a lip around outer edge where piece did not rub - my post "center" had smaller measurement so submit your largest measurement of your post.
Thank you for having it done.
Last edited by SinCity; 06-21-2018 at 06:03 AM.
06-21-2018, 12:52 PM
#217
6th Gear
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
New piece on right
price went up to $425 - so much labor and had to do drawings- probably cheaper for others now that I paid for drawings. Another issue is that the screw is left hand thread-( nothing simple). They ended up making the thread out of same piece so no weld like original. ALSO need to make sure you measure your post that the piece fits on. Mine had a lip around outer edge where piece did not rub - my post "center" had smaller measurement so submit your largest measurement of your post.
08-12-2018, 10:33 PM
#219
A friend hooked me up with s welder who determined the grade of steel used and welded up the hole and redrilled to .585 inches. Should have the part back in the next few days.
I will ask if he is willing to fix up others if mailed to him and how much he would charge once I get the part back and install it, nothing had to be removed to take this part off the wastegate.
I will ask if he is willing to fix up others if mailed to him and how much he would charge once I get the part back and install it, nothing had to be removed to take this part off the wastegate.
The following 2 users liked this post by JasonZ:
Pacer (07-06-2020),
superblast (08-14-2018)
08-13-2018, 06:07 AM
#221
A friend hooked me up with s welder who determined the grade of steel used and welded up the hole and redrilled to .585 inches. Should have the part back in the next few days.
I will ask if he is willing to fix up others if mailed to him and how much he would charge once I get the part back and install it, nothing had to be removed to take this part off the wastegate.
I will ask if he is willing to fix up others if mailed to him and how much he would charge once I get the part back and install it, nothing had to be removed to take this part off the wastegate.
08-13-2018, 06:10 AM
#222
Yes, just use 2 wrenches to loosen the lock nut then keep loosening the long nut until the part comes out, there is enough clearance to remove the part from the shaft it is connected to.
08-13-2018, 12:57 PM
#223
Cruisin'
sigh... so my mechanic took a look - he found none of these were the cause of the issue....
At this point, I'm just going to replace the turbo with a new, aftermarket model. that said; I know very little so I'm looking for some help on how to find a compatible turbo, and what I need to give my mechanic. new thread here:
At this point, I'm just going to replace the turbo with a new, aftermarket model. that said; I know very little so I'm looking for some help on how to find a compatible turbo, and what I need to give my mechanic. new thread here:
Before sending it off, I took a video,
08-14-2018, 11:31 AM
#224
He is willing to rebuild this part for any others that are willing to ship to him, he is located in Canada. You can contact Darren directly at irt350@gmail.com
During and after photos are attached and the cost of this repair will be $250 Canadian, the steps that he has taken to rebuild this part is as follows...
Step 1 clean part
Step 2 grind away finish
Step 3 clean againStep 4 cut off lower under radius of hole Step 5 square up top of threaded shaft section Step 5 square up and dimension 4140 and prep for Tig welding.Step 6 fit up, pre heat and tack up
Step 7 root pass
Step 8 build up welds
Step 9 cap weld and post heat
Step 10 finish to final dimensions
Step 11 drill hole
Step 12 lathe in 4 jaw chuck bore to finished Dia.
Step 13 clean
Step 14 Black Oxide
The following 3 users liked this post by JasonZ:
08-14-2018, 04:21 PM
#225
Wastegate linkage repair
Thanks Jason for the info posted. Just to clarify my contact info: Email lrt350@gmail.com or 905-320-5191.
I can also fabricate the part from 4140 for $300 Canadian plus shipping just need to buy a M7x1.0 die and would make it from one piece or two piece if you want the threads to run right up to the base I would plug weld the threaded M7 x 1.0 shaft onto the main body of the linkage. Any questions feel free to ask here or my email.
I can also fabricate the part from 4140 for $300 Canadian plus shipping just need to buy a M7x1.0 die and would make it from one piece or two piece if you want the threads to run right up to the base I would plug weld the threaded M7 x 1.0 shaft onto the main body of the linkage. Any questions feel free to ask here or my email.
The following 3 users liked this post by Darren Gauryletz:
08-14-2018, 04:50 PM
#226
Clarify my last post
I can also make it from one piece with the very top of the threaded shaft neck slightly recessed so the nut will bottom out on the main body.
I tried Tig welding the old hole shut shut but it was very contaminated base material. Stick/mig welding would have solved this issue except it would be questionable the quality of the weld repair.
I tried Tig welding the old hole shut shut but it was very contaminated base material. Stick/mig welding would have solved this issue except it would be questionable the quality of the weld repair.
The following users liked this post:
SinCity (08-15-2018)
08-15-2018, 08:43 AM
#229
08-16-2018, 05:58 AM
#230
08-16-2018, 06:43 AM
#231
08-31-2018, 09:29 AM
#233
Linkage is Worn!
Obvious wear in linkage.
WOW! So thanks to everyone posting their experiences here and items to check, especially Manny Picho Jesus and the pictures he posted of the oval wear on the waste gate plus his fix. Hopefully my addition here might help someone else searching for 'how to' on the do-it-yourself level.
Our daughter started saving for a car in the 8th grade and purchased a 2008 RDX her second year in college. We steered her towards Honda/Acura for the reliability and you can imagine how horrible we've felt over the potential of having a car now valued at $5K with a $4500 repair price tag. The P2263 code just started about 3 months ago but she spent the summer taking care of our 9 y.o. niece 1,500 miles away. Just now have the car here.
On visual inspection, it was *VERY* obvious there was a good amount of wear on the actuator link.
I don't have much patience nor the time to yank the entire turbo out of the car and it's not something we're currently not willing to send to the shop for cash flow reasons. It's taken quite a bit of noodling the puzzle out (I always have time for a good puzzle) as I've been removing parts or loosening bolts to move things around; the ultimate goal is to remove the waste gate assembly w/o pulling the turbo.
At this point the two mounting bolts (6x10mm I think) that hold the bracket to the turbo body are finally exposed. It required the removal of the intercooler, exhaust heat shield, and the loosening of the sensor brackets that sit on the intake side. For extra visibility (though I don't think it's really required) I've pulled the entire air cleaner assembly out. The additional light helps me see. The younger ones likely don't need it.
Waiting on a 10mm long handled ratcheting wrench to arrive - couldn't find a source here locally. With that and borrowing someone's small child* to collect one of the bolts (it's a tight space!) - it should be pretty doable. Once it's out, we'll go through the process of getting that piece serviceable again.
* child optional
09-02-2018, 10:12 AM
#235
Update:
The tool helped, marginally. I was able to get to one mounting bolt but the other bolt is juuuussssst out of reach. The retaining clip on the actuator arm is also out of reach. There's no way to remove the part without pulling the entire turbo assembly.
Next step is to take up the idea 86J used for his issue which was to use a steel cable to bind the actuator arm and gate lever.
The tool helped, marginally. I was able to get to one mounting bolt but the other bolt is juuuussssst out of reach. The retaining clip on the actuator arm is also out of reach. There's no way to remove the part without pulling the entire turbo assembly.
Next step is to take up the idea 86J used for his issue which was to use a steel cable to bind the actuator arm and gate lever.
09-03-2018, 03:45 PM
#237
Linkage is worn!
I wouldn't say that it's incorrect. If he had success, it must be doable. Based on what I experienced, it is very feasible with a good deal of patience and persistence.
A friend stopped by yesterday. Between the two of us, we managed to wrap the wire rope (1/16" stainless steel) around the lever and the actuator arm similar to 86j's post. Put everything back together save the intercooler cover and out for a 15 minute test drive. Only rev'd up the turbo twice with no code pop - where it would pop with the first rev of the turbo prior to lashing the lever and arm together - so I'm hopeful this is was the only issue.
Getting the wire rope secured:
It was a combination of two very long hemostats and a small needle nose vice grip that were needed to get the wire rope in place. It's very resistant to being bent. It did require two wraps. We used two retainers - one to get control of the running and standing ends of the 'rope' and a second to allow a firm grip to put tension on the line prior to securing the second anchor; necessary to take out all the play between the lever and the worn actuator linkage. We were going to leave both anchors on but there isn't enough room for two as the outside anchor would be bound by the heat shield.
Only lost 1 10mm wrench - buried somewhere below the block and chassis. Bonus though, I now have an extra 10mm bolt. It'll come in handy as some point in the future I'm sure.
This is certainly a temporary fix - hoping temporary means 2 years. The proper fix in my mind is correcting the linkage. Seems to me a better option would be a sealed bearing over the shaft on the lever versus the metal on metal contact with the actuator arm.
Hope this helps future RDX'ers searching for solutions to their turbo problems.
The following users liked this post:
Pacer (07-06-2020)
09-08-2018, 04:53 PM
#240
It is not incorrect, I have removed the old one and installed the rebuilt part without removing anything other than the worn part. It takes a little fiddling putting it on and I do recommend tying something to the threaded end just Incase it slips out of your fingers so you can recover it easily.