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So, I opted to avoid used ones, as clearly this thing is more than trivial rate of failure given the number of p2263 threads on the forum. This is my wife's car and can't sit not running for more than a day or two before it gets really difficult. There are re-manufactured ones I've found through a few sites and ebay, but they're still ~$1800. so for a $500 difference, I didn't think it was worth it to get the whole job done and potentially have to do it again sometime soon, but YMMV.
Note that this thing isn't the full kit, so there's all kinds of studs, gaskets, etc that don't come with it that you need to get the job done, unfortunately.
In the end I'm kind of irritated as I bought a Honda Motors car for reliability and reasonable maintenance costs, not realizing there is this time bomb in it in the shape of a Mitsubishi built turbo unit. =(
How does this compare to getting an used one and sending it to Blouch for a rebuild?
Well, i mean, the places I listed and the one I bought is NEW OEM bought directly from Acura. Not rebuilt or remanufactured. Doing a rebuild or buying a refurb, it's kind of hard to tell what reliability you'e going to get.
Best case, it's nearly just as good as a new one for way less money
Worst case, it fails in a month. I have no idea how to tell what reliability I'm going to get so I opted for the new one.
On that note though, if rebuild/refurb is a route somebody wants to go, I have the original turbo in my possession if one of you wants to buy it and send it off for a rebuild. The boost level is perfectly fine on it, testing it it seems just the VGT actuator isn't behaving properly. Wastegate actuator seems to be working fine. I was planning on trying to sell it to a remanufacturing group like buyautoparts, but happy to sell it to somebody here as well.
Originally Posted by SinCity
How does this compare to getting an used one and sending it to Blouch for a rebuild?
sounds crazy but after chasing my turbo issues I ended up needing to replace my trans for an unexpected failure this past week and all issues are gone with turbo. no more turbo codes or performance issues. crazy. I would also add long shot but I do know for a fact that a faulty ECT will cause you to think you have turbo issues as well. Worth the time and 30 bucks to swap out with fingers crossed as opposed to the turbo costs first.
Yeah, i just bought a used one with 48K miles on it for under $500. This will be a gamble if it works reliably. Good thing it has 90 warranty and we'll see.
I did message Blouch performance about rebuild or replacement of the actuators but no response yet. I am thinking perhaps i can do some experimenting with the OEM turbo if my luck fails on this used one.
2010 RDX, 116k. Check Emission System and AWD errors. Air filter bolts were broken off by oil change place...new air filter put in and bolts replaced, code reset. 100-ish miles later, engine lights returned. Dealer says blown turbo. Thoughts? Anything that a lay-person can do themselves? Getting a second opinion next week. Sad tho...I love this car and want to hand it down to my daughter in three years.
For mine, the actuator on the waste gate broke in such way where it didn't close the waste gate and kept it open.
When my broken actuator was tested, it didn't have the spring resistance to close the waste gate.
i ended up replacing both actuators, waste gate, and turbo with a Used Turbo Assembly because i couldn't afford the time to troubleshoot and experiment.
2010 RDX, 116k. Check Emission System and AWD errors. Air filter bolts were broken off by oil change place...new air filter put in and bolts replaced, code reset. 100-ish miles later, engine lights returned. Dealer says blown turbo. Thoughts? Anything that a lay-person can do themselves? Getting a second opinion next week. Sad tho...I love this car and want to hand it down to my daughter in three years.
for us, a new turbo fixed the limp mode CEL throwing. I didn't have the instruments to test the old turbo to be 100% sure of the problem, but it seems to me that it was the VGT actuator that was busted for us. It seemed to not actuate properly, seeming to not hold vacuum/pressure properly when testing with a hand pump. The wastegate actuator did.
didn't have time to do the work myself, so given we had to take it to a mechanic, we decided to not mess around with used or remanufactured turbos and risk having to do the work again in the near future or risking not fixing the problem, so went with a new turbo.
for me, i ended up getting used Turbo Assembly with 38K miles, off 2008, $475 and some gaskets ~$30, and about 8 hours of labor, it came out to be $950.
it was then, my mechanics said, why not just change the actuator. The problem is that Honda doesn't sell this part. If i were to do again, i might have tried one of those Mitsubishi Evo actuator, I've seen aftermarket for about $80 range, before throwing in the money. I just didn't want to diagnose, and swapped it out.
don't know if it works but if this used turbo has issues, i might want to buy one of these to try out. or go to local turbo shop to custom. Universal Turbo Internal Wastegate Actuator RB20 7 psi to 26 psi 2" L 7.5 Hole
for me, i ended up getting used Turbo Assembly with 38K miles, off 2008, $475 and some gaskets ~$30, and about 8 hours of labor, it came out to be $950.
it was then, my mechanics said, why not just change the actuator. The problem is that Honda doesn't sell this part. If i were to do again, i might have tried one of those Mitsubishi Evo actuator, I've seen aftermarket for about $80 range, before throwing in the money. I just didn't want to diagnose, and swapped it out.
don't know if it works but if this used turbo has issues, i might want to buy one of these to try out. or go to local turbo shop to custom. Universal Turbo Internal Wastegate Actuator RB20 7 psi to 26 psi 2" L 7.5 Hole
im having the same issue. My actuator is stuck and Acura doesn't sell the actuator without purchasing the whole turbo. Did you buy the universal one?
Hey guys I was having the same issue. I checked all three solenoids. The boost controller one and the actuator (2) ones. I checked the resistance using an ohm meter.
Turbo boost controller should measure 34 ohms give or take. The actuator solenoids located behind the engine measure about 26 ohms give or take. Since those were good I took a look at the exhaust actuator, visible from the passenger side of the engine bay. It was stuck! I called up acura and they don't sell it without the complete turbo kit which sucks since it appears to be a common issue. At this point my turbo is making a weird noise when I let off of the gas and I've also lost some boost. Furthermore, the gauge shows erratic spooling. I've called a few scapyards but they refuse to sell it without the turbo.
Has as anyone tried an aftermarket or universal wastegate actuator? If so let me know which one please???
Just wanted to add some information here, since I just went through some LONG standing turbo issues and weird noises that finally appear to be fixed.
I have a 2010 RDX (AWD, tech package, about ~121K miles at first notice of issues) that I purchased in September of 2010 in Arizona, where it was almost entirely driven until I moved to Washington in May of 2016. Immediately upon moving from Arizona, I started getting sporadic "Check Emission" engine codes (P2263, specifically). It would come on, then not come back for several weeks but would eventually come back sporadically. The dealership in Washington that I took it to could not find anything in specific wrong, so they just cleared the codes and chocked it up to a "glitch". Over enough time, it got more and more frequent until the check engine light came on EVERY time I started the vehicle, immediately. The Acura dealership checked the turbo, checked every sensor, and everything checked out as fine when tested separately. It was only when fully assembled that anything seemed out of sorts.
Let's step back for a minute - right around the same time I moved from Arizona, I also noticed a very distinct rattling noise coming from the engine compartment. I took the car into the dealership 5 times and mentioned this noise, and it was disregarded every single time as "unrepeatable". This was absolutely connected to the turbo.
As of yesterday, I finally got my car back after it was at the Bellevue dealership for a week and a half. Everything is now fixed (sound and engine codes), and the problem was the turbo the whole time. However, I happened to have a service advisor that actually gave a shit, and they were able to determine the issue only after I presented information that I found from this very thread. Acura designed a flawed turbo - that's the simplest way to describe it. They acknowledged, as a global company, that turbocharged cars in the Southwest region of the US (where it's pretty damn hot!) have a small percentage of turbos that have issues due to spiderline cracks in the turbo itself. While they did not acknowledge the rattling noise, information I found from another thread (that I apologetically can't currently find) was related to the turbo actuator. The ENTIRE turbo has to be replaced in these circumstances.
Being that this is a pretty expensive repair, it's important to note that you don't necessarily have to be responsible for all of it. At my current dealership, this would have cost $5,000. Given that I had a REALLY good service advisor that actually cared that I'd gone more than a year of dealing with this check engine light, she had pushed for real answers from Acura central (hotline for Acura technicians), received actual recognition of a repeatable problem, and went through extra work that she didn't have to in order to request "good will" repair on my behalf. While I was hoping for a no-cost repair due to an engineering oversight, getting the turbo replaced in my RDX ran me $2,291 instead of the full $5,000 that it normally would run. For comparison's sake, the part alone cost $1,800 new and the requires about 16 hours of labor.
If you're having these symptoms and your car has spent a significant amount of time in the Southwest, DO NOT roll over. This is a repeatable (to a certain degree, but repeatable) issue that Acura has acknowledged. If your service advisor wants to charge full price for a turbo replacement, ask about what Acura can do to compensate for an engineering flaw that Acura knows exists. It may not be free, but you may be able to save a whole lot of money on replacing something that shouldn't have failed in the first place.
One point that I forgot about the rattling noise! It happens when the engine RPM is high, but specifically decreasing. This could include an incline or decline, where you left off the gas but are not braking, and the engine RPM hits a specific speed and the noise is rather apparent. What took me over a year to realize is that you can reproduce this noise MUCH more reliably by leaving he car in park and hitting the accelerator until you reach about 5K RPMs, then just letting off completely. As the RPMs come closer to to idle, you'll hear the noise for several seconds. That noise is the turbo actuator, and is completely indicative of a problem with the turbo that may not be apparent to a technician/mechanic.
So did you have a cracked turbo housing or a worn actuator? Or both? I also have a 2010, current at 124k miles and it has been a Phoenix car all its life. So far it has been flawless except for a battery terminal that got corroded and eventually failed, so definitely interested in your situation.
It was actually both. The cracks were described to me as spiderline cracks, and were not noticed by an Acura mechanic that took everything apart and tested each component and sensor individually. The car seemed to drive just fine with these issues, but I noticed a definite performance gain once the turbo was replaced. These cars also disable the AWD and strictly use FWD when the "Check AWD" light comes on, which almost always happens when the "Check Emission" light comes on.
It doesn't happen to every Acura with a Turbo in the Southwest, it is definitely a small percentage. But it's worth keeping in mind in the event that you do start seeing similar issues.
I'm honestly surprised about the cracking in the turbo - ultimately the ambient temperature shouldn't even be an issue because it is both oil and water cooled, and regardless of outside temp the turbo will be hotter than ambient by a good margin. The number of heat cycles could be something though - a car with 125k of short trips could see a lot more metal fatigue than a car with 125k of highway.
The actuator failing is something I see posted about a lot more on 2007-08 models for the most part, but it's really too early to say whether that's due to a manufacturing defect that was later corrected, or just that those older cars tend to have higher miles to where the problem just manifests itself more often (which is to say the newer model years could eventually see a similar failure rate).
Glad to hear you got yours replaced at a relative bargain...and hopefully it stays good for a while!
I finally had some time to pull the diaphragm off the turbo and try to figure out why I keep getting the p2263 error. I think the part that caused me to have this code is a piece of metal that connects the diaphragm arm to the wastegate actuator arm.
Originally I thought maybe my diaphragm had the same issue as ltcjim's where a piece broke inside. But after I removed the diaphragm I shook it and it did not make any noise. I then proceeded to hook up the diaphragm to a vacuum pump to test it. I was able to verify that the once there is vacuum, the arm did not move easily. If the piece was broken inside, it should move very easily and you probably wouldn't be able to hold any vacuum. I then applied some positive pressure and verified that the arm moved down and was still not able be be pushed very easily.
After that test, I concluded that the diaphragm is still working ok and figured my problem is something else and most likely I was going to need to replace the whole turbo.
Then, before I put the diaphragm back I was looking at the piece that connects the diaphragm to the wastegate actuator arm and it looked kind of odd to me for some reason so I took a closer look at it. It is a square piece of metal that connects to the turn buckle on the diaphragm arm and it has a round hole in it that connects to the wastegate actuator arm. In my case, the hole was so worn that it was no longer round and more like an oval. So looking at that and thinking about how this turbo system works, I thought that the most likely problem is that the worn piece of metal is preventing the diaphragm from holding the wastegate completely closed when it should be closed and the ECU is sensing this, thus throwing out the error code.
Basically, I think the way this system is supposed to work is while the engine rpm is low and exhaust gas flow is low the diaphragm keeps the wastegate closed. Then as engine rpm increases and exhaust gas flow increases, the diaphram gradually gets positive pressure and opens the wastegate. For my car, I think what was happening is that when the diaphragm is getting vacuum and trying to keep the wastegate completely closed, since the metal piece is worn, it has some play which is allowing the wastegate to open slightly and the ECU is sensing this and throwing out the code.
All I did to try and fix it was I shortened the turnbuckle to adjust out any play on the wastegate actuator arm and made sure that while there is any vacuum applied to the diaphragm, the wastegate is completely closed.
My RDX has about 130K miles on it and the p2263 code started happening around 115K and has gotten more and more frequent. It has gotten to the point where every time I drive it, the light would come on, then most times it would shut off after a while then come back on.
I have put about 600 miles on the car since I did the adjustment and so far it hasn't thrown any codes yet, knock on wood.
I have a code reader and I've been reading the code and I do see that the p2263 still happens every once in a while but it is not triggering the CEL light yet(You need to have multiple instances of this error condition before it'll throw the code. Conversely, if conditions are right and there is no error, it'll remove the existing "pending" error code. I think that is why the light comes and goes).
So to make a long story short, in my case, all I had to do was adjust the diaphragm turnbuckle to fix the problem. With that said though, it was a major pain to remove the diaphragm without pulling the turbo since the turbo is buried in the back of the engine and it was very very difficult to get to it. Might be easier to just pull the turbo. Also, I view my solution as a temporary fix, if the metal piece keeps wearing like it has been, its eventually going to break the metal piece since there is not a whole lot of material left. I'm really hoping Acura starts selling the diaphragm and turnbuckle assembly separately instead of having to buy a whole new turbo since the turbo itself still seems to work fine.
Anyway, I will update this thread again if anything changes or if I start getting the p2263 code again.
Oh and I forgot to mention, I think it would be possible to do a quick check before you go through the trouble of trying to take the diaphram off. With the intercooler removed find the actuator arm that operates the wastegate flap(its the diaphragm that is oriented vertically with the arm going up and down), you should be able to get to it from the passenger side. Try pushing on the arm to see if you can push it down while everything is hooked up. If the wastegate arm moves easily(and you don't see the diaphragm arm moving), most likely you have the same problem my car had. If you see both the wastegate arm move and the diaphragm arm move, then you might have the same issue as ltcjim did.
I realize this thread is a few years old, and you likely don't even have the car anymore, but you and ltcjim seem to have the closest symptoms to my turbo issues. The rattle I am getting, (along with most other symptoms, CEL etc,...) however, different from other posts I have seen, is upon acceleration, or when revving the engine from idle. Only for the first 2000 rpm or so, then goes away. But when sitting in park and revving, it can be heard, then upon first acceleration from a green light, but quickly goes away, but has become progressively worse. I first thought it might be the broken actuator as described in this and ltcjim's posted fix, but then I saw the other turnbuckle issues posted as well. From a visual examination and as suggested, grabbing the turnbuckle and testing for play, mine is tight, and appears to be no issue. So, before I begin removing the actuator where the broken piece may be inside, I wanted to see if anyone also has this rattling symptom as I have described, or for those who have diagnosed and solved their issue with any of these methods, did the rattle pay a role, or help in pointing you towards a solution?
Forget this........I was never able to recreate the rattle as it only happened under load in gear, and upon first acceleration. I was able to keep the e-brake on, my wife's foot on the brake and gas, put it in gear, and with a quick shot of the gas, you can recreate it enough to get under the hood (to the passenger side, so you don't get run over if something slipped!), clearly it wasn't near the turbo, and turns out it is my tensioner pulley....easy replacement! But still no turbo solutions.
I am new to Acurazine but have always read the forums as a guest. I have a 2007 Acura RDX (105,xxx miles) always changed the oil at 3500 miles, put premium gas...etc
I started getting a chatter/rattling noise coming from the bottom of the engine, the reason I think its from the bottom is because its louder from the bottom than it is from the top. I think it may be a rattling wastegate actuator like every has been mentioning here. However the difference is that it only happens after the car has warmed up and does not happen at cold start. If I drive around for 8-10 minutes then i start to hear it, and if i let the car sit for an hour and start her up again its gone.
It only happens on down revs, its a lot louder in a garage when the sound is echoing off the walls but can still hear it outside. I've checked all visible heat shields, did a engine flush and new oil, new coolant.It sounds almost like some type of fan is spinning and hitting something. I took the car to Acura and they couldn't reproduce the noise because the car wasn't warm and they told if the car broke down to come back..lol. But they were happy to take my money for the "Inspection". I'll post a video below, does it sound familiar to anyone? Thank in advance for the help!
Some more info I forgot to include in my previous post. I'm not getting any error messages, no check engine light or shawd light. Just the noise. I'm also not losing boost, it's still as quick as when I first got her which is what is swaying me away from. The idea that it's a turbo issue. Thanks again!
So this week was my turn for my 2007 RDX (~120Kmiles) to throw codes P2263 and AWD77 while accelerating on the highway.
Took it to the dealer and was diagnosed as malfunctioning turbo boost sensor: $510
No issues after running it through it's paces.
Not cheap but certainly a relief compared to being diagnosed as a blown turbo.
There are two of them (turbocharger boost sensor). Did you change both of them?
Your response will be highly appreciated.
yes it is the upper vacuum housing on the top of the turbo. you should be able to remove it from the turbo without removing the entire turbo. can not explain why Acura does not sell the actuators separately.
i used "all data" for the sequence to remove it. did not think to document the sequence separately.
the turbo come out the top. to gain clearance you have to remove almost everything from the drives side of the engine compartment. the airbox, the fuse box next to it, disconnect the brake maser cylinder from the firewall and flex tie if off to the side, drain the coolant so when you disconnect the heater hoses, the heat shield, and all the vacuum lines to gain clearance. the entire assembly is surprisingly large and requires a lot of space to get it out. the most difficult parts to remove was the oil lines and the bolt in the turbo support bracket at the bottom(access and angle).
Hi eveyone, got a 08 with 120k miles and got the same problems. Dealer says wastegate actuator is broken and it is causing overboost code. Attempting to remove the turbo but how the hell are people getting to the above underlined oil lines and the turbo support bracket?!?! Special tool? Removing the intermediate driveshaft? Using the service manual but they don't address the real world clearance and access issues. Any pointers?
Thanks guys.
So your total is 4, and they are only on this thread? Four doesn't count as "many."
There were over 30,000 RDX's sold in 2006-07. By my math, that would put the four of you at .0123% of sales represented here on AZ.
Let's consider that you probably only make up 1% of those who have actually had an issue and looked here and posted for help...
That would make the probable total of RDX owners who have this issue right now at 1.23%. FAR from "many."
I'm having the same issue, 2007 RDX. ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON, NOW STAYS ON, shawd goes off and on occasionally, no difference in driving. I was gunning it to get out of traffic. Is there a sensor associated with the turbocharger?
Yeah, i just bought a used one with 48K miles on it for under $500. This will be a gamble if it works reliably. Good thing it has 90 warranty and we'll see.
I did message Blouch performance about rebuild or replacement of the actuators but no response yet. I am thinking perhaps i can do some experimenting with the OEM turbo if my luck fails on this used one.
currently there is no bolt on fix available at this time. if people would be willing to send old damaged parts to me i might be able to have a local machine shop design a solution that is significantly cheaper then buying a new turbo. as far as I'm aware Blouch doesn't do much with our RDX specific wastegate actuators. either the spool valve or the actual wastegate.
This is my first post in Acurazine forums, and knowing my luck, it's because of _this_ doozy of a problem
2011 RDX, bought new, driven lightly for almost 90K miles, SH-AWD with tech package - zero modifications
I'm diligent about changing the oil per the maintenance schedule, I use premium gas
Been experiencing P2263 - Turbo/Supercharger Boost System Performance and P0234 - Engine Overboost Condition CEL and check SH-AWD light for about a year now
P2263 about 80% of the time, P0234 ~20% of the time
Every time I clear the CEL, the light returns anywhere between 200 and 500 miles later
Car occasionally "lunges" or "jolts" when it down-shifts and my foot is off the gas *and* off the brake - unable to replicate this consistently
When I gun it on the highway, it lunges and jolts like *crazy* - enough to wake my wife who's a heavy sleeper in the car - very unsettling
no off-throttle rattle at idle or other rattling (that I can hear at least...) unlike others in this thread who have pointed it out
Had it checked with the dealer (screenshot of their service recommendations below), and two independent mechanics, they all diagnose an issue with the waste gate, and they all recommend replacing the Turbo (dealer of course suggests OEM which is $4K, but my other mechanic has been suggesting remanufactured Turbos)
I am THIS close to biting the bullet on replacing the turbo entirely until I read through this post in detail..... Instead, I've printed out this entire thread and highlighted the relevant tips from various people, and I'm going to BEG my mechanic to try the following (I'm just parroting what you guys have written, I don't know much myself):
Check if the actuator rattles if you shake it - per ltcjim505 via post #88
Check the connection between the diaphragm arm to the wastegate actuator arm - maybe there is something that is preventing the wastegate from closing completely - per pwu_1 via post #95
Check if the wastegate actuator end is ovaled (and isn't supposed to?) - per sinnersahuayo inviapost #104
Very interested it seeing what the issue is. Most often this seems to be the actuator, but also most often it seems to affect 07 and 08 cars. Not sure if the part was updated at some point, or if we just didn't see it on newer cars due to a typically lower mileage. And 90k...not really a lot of miles for this car. Good luck and please post back results!
So did you have a cracked turbo housing or a worn actuator? Or both? I also have a 2010, current at 124k miles and it has been a Phoenix car all its life. So far it has been flawless except for a battery terminal that got corroded and eventually failed, so definitely interested in your situation.
Where are you at now? My 2008 is at 129k mi and I'm in Vegas. So far, no issues other than at 117k mi (within 2 mos of each other) both the AC compressor and alternator failed. We just ordered my replacement vehicle and we're contemplating on keeping the RDX as a spare vehicle or just trade it in to CarMax after the new car arrives.
Just a quick update from my last post #155. I have not had any check engine light issues for the past 1.5 years. The wire I used to take up the slack on the variable flow valve actuator is holding up great.
Just a quick update from my last post #155. I have not had any check engine light issues for the past 1.5 years. The wire I used to take up the slack on the variable flow valve actuator is holding up great.
Did you have to move a lot of items out of the way to install the wire?
This is my first post in Acurazine forums, and knowing my luck, it's because of _this_ doozy of a problem
2011 RDX, bought new, driven lightly for almost 90K miles, SH-AWD with tech package - zero modifications
I'm diligent about changing the oil per the maintenance schedule, I use premium gas
Been experiencing P2263 - Turbo/Supercharger Boost System Performance and P0234 - Engine Overboost Condition CEL and check SH-AWD light for about a year now
P2263 about 80% of the time, P0234 ~20% of the time
Every time I clear the CEL, the light returns anywhere between 200 and 500 miles later
Car occasionally "lunges" or "jolts" when it down-shifts and my foot is off the gas *and* off the brake - unable to replicate this consistently
When I gun it on the highway, it lunges and jolts like *crazy* - enough to wake my wife who's a heavy sleeper in the car - very unsettling
no off-throttle rattle at idle or other rattling (that I can hear at least...) unlike others in this thread who have pointed it out
Had it checked with the dealer (screenshot of their service recommendations below), and two independent mechanics, they all diagnose an issue with the waste gate, and they all recommend replacing the Turbo (dealer of course suggests OEM which is $4K, but my other mechanic has been suggesting remanufactured Turbos)
I am THIS close to biting the bullet on replacing the turbo entirely until I read through this post in detail..... Instead, I've printed out this entire thread and highlighted the relevant tips from various people, and I'm going to BEG my mechanic to try the following (I'm just parroting what you guys have written, I don't know much myself):
Check if the actuator rattles if you shake it - per ltcjim505 via post #88
Check the connection between the diaphragm arm to the wastegate actuator arm - maybe there is something that is preventing the wastegate from closing completely - per pwu_1 via post #95
Check if the wastegate actuator end is ovaled (and isn't supposed to?) - per sinnersahuayo inviapost #104
Check spring resistance of the actuator so that the waste gate closes completely - per istundra via post #165
I'm hoping to take it to the mechanic over the next few days, I'll let everyone know how it goes (assuming he's even game to try those things)
sigh... so my mechanic took a look - he found none of these were the cause of the issue....
At this point, I'm just going to replace the turbo with a new, aftermarket model. that said; I know very little so I'm looking for some help on how to find a compatible turbo, and what I need to give my mechanic. new thread here:
sigh... so my mechanic took a look - he found none of these were the cause of the issue....
At this point, I'm just going to replace the turbo with a new, aftermarket model. that said; I know very little so I'm looking for some help on how to find a compatible turbo, and what I need to give my mechanic. new thread here:
03-23-2017, 06:04 AM
