Fan for climate control not working.
I started my car and headed out yesterday and noticed that there was no air blowing out of my vents. Regardless of any settings I changed, off, Auto, Def, vent, recirculate, or variations of speed setting. It eventually kicked on all by itself about a mile after my troubleshooting... Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem and maybe knows whats going on so I may prevent it in the future.
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
No trouble turning over. Battery replaced spring/summer 2010. No corrosion on the terminals. Haven't had any services done lately... I also haven't replaced the cabin filter lately, might that be a factor?
Now it's doing it more frequently.
Haven't had any issues since I originally posted this, but in the last week, it's happened at least once on every trip. It will randomly come back on while driving though.
I'm guessing a loose ground somewhere, but where should I start looking?
Haven't had any issues since I originally posted this, but in the last week, it's happened at least once on every trip. It will randomly come back on while driving though.
I'm guessing a loose ground somewhere, but where should I start looking?
Here is how to run the Climate Control System self-diagnostic function:
A) Turn the ignition switch ON (pos II, do not start the engine).
B) Press and hold the Climate Control OFF button. (To right of AUTO, beneath DUAL).
C) While holding the OFF button, press the rear window/mirror defogger (left of MODE, above A/C) 5 times within 10 seconds.
D) Release the buttons. Self diagnostic will begin within 20 seconds.
If a fault is detected the driver temp indicator and AUTO indicator (on display beneath windshield) will flash a code. The temp indicator will flash one or more segments of it's 14 display segments that form 88, and the AUTO indicator may or may not come on with it. The temp indicator will alternate every second between the segment code and 88. For instance you may see -/88/-/88/-, and the AUTO indicator may be on or stay dark. Note exactly which segment or segments flash, and if the AUTO is on.
Look at this diagram:

Post the result and I'll look it up for you. (If no fault is detected the displays will remain dark.)
To exit self-diagnostic turn the ignition switch OFF.
A) Turn the ignition switch ON (pos II, do not start the engine).
B) Press and hold the Climate Control OFF button. (To right of AUTO, beneath DUAL).
C) While holding the OFF button, press the rear window/mirror defogger (left of MODE, above A/C) 5 times within 10 seconds.
D) Release the buttons. Self diagnostic will begin within 20 seconds.
If a fault is detected the driver temp indicator and AUTO indicator (on display beneath windshield) will flash a code. The temp indicator will flash one or more segments of it's 14 display segments that form 88, and the AUTO indicator may or may not come on with it. The temp indicator will alternate every second between the segment code and 88. For instance you may see -/88/-/88/-, and the AUTO indicator may be on or stay dark. Note exactly which segment or segments flash, and if the AUTO is on.
Look at this diagram:

Post the result and I'll look it up for you. (If no fault is detected the displays will remain dark.)
To exit self-diagnostic turn the ignition switch OFF.
"F" with no "Auto" is a problem with the blower motor circuit. (Kinda knew that already huh)
:
Simple things you can check, that Honda lists first for failure code F:
With the ignition switch OFF:
Check fuse 9 (40A) in the under hood fuse/relay box.
Check fuse 36 (10A) in the under dash fuse/relay box.
If the fuses check good, they start going into jumper wires and continuity checks -- its gets complicated. One good thing though, they never suggest that the motor is bad; only wire connections.
: Simple things you can check, that Honda lists first for failure code F:
With the ignition switch OFF:
Check fuse 9 (40A) in the under hood fuse/relay box.
Check fuse 36 (10A) in the under dash fuse/relay box.
If the fuses check good, they start going into jumper wires and continuity checks -- its gets complicated. One good thing though, they never suggest that the motor is bad; only wire connections.
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