Check Emission and SH-AWD
#1
Check Emission and SH-AWD
Hey guys, so lately I've been experiencing a weird problem. Every day when I go turn on my car, I get 2 lights that pop-up on my dash, first it's the Check Emission System light, which I have had on and off for a while, but now I also get the SH-AWD light that pops-up. Now the weird thing is, if I turn the car off even if it's been on for only 30 secs, the SH-AWD goes off but the Check Emission System light stays on. The codes I have pulled are: P0139, P0103 and P2199. Any thoughts of what the issue could be? The car has gone in limp mode a couple times. I would take it into the Acura shop however I have the following mods: ETS intercooler, RV-6 downpipe and a CPE cold air intake, and they've told me once in the past that to properly diagnose it it would have to be stock not to mention it's out of warranty now anyways. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I hate seeing these stupid lights on my dash. So far I have cleaned my MAF sensor and cleared the codes but they came back a little over 100 miles later. Thanks in advance.
Also, when the car gets wet or I happen to go in a puddle with the driver side, the beep (after 2 lock button clicks) I usually hear when setting the alarm doesn't happen. Could something electrical be getting wet and causing malfunctions? If so, would anyone happen to know where I should start looking?
Btw, if anyone happens to have the instructions for the RV-6 downpipe, I would appreciate a picture of the page where it says what angle the defouler should be set at to avoid the CEL light. Thanks
Also, when the car gets wet or I happen to go in a puddle with the driver side, the beep (after 2 lock button clicks) I usually hear when setting the alarm doesn't happen. Could something electrical be getting wet and causing malfunctions? If so, would anyone happen to know where I should start looking?
Btw, if anyone happens to have the instructions for the RV-6 downpipe, I would appreciate a picture of the page where it says what angle the defouler should be set at to avoid the CEL light. Thanks
#2
***Update***
I received my Foseal bluetooth OBD II reader today and hooked it up to my phone. Using the paid version of the Torque app, the only code that comes up is P2199.
Hope to hear from someone soon.
I received my Foseal bluetooth OBD II reader today and hooked it up to my phone. Using the paid version of the Torque app, the only code that comes up is P2199.
Hope to hear from someone soon.
#3
I you can look in my thread I have a picture of my DOWNPIPE installed as well as all my other modifications. The dealership never bothered me about my modifications before so yours might just be full of lazy assholes. I would disconnect the battery for ten minutes then reconnected it. Then check all the fuses if the code comes back.
#4
I you can look in my thread I have a picture of my DOWNPIPE installed as well as all my other modifications. The dealership never bothered me about my modifications before so yours might just be full of lazy assholes. I would disconnect the battery for ten minutes then reconnected it. Then check all the fuses if the code comes back.
Anyways, the picture you have of your downpipe doesn't show the second O2 sensor which is where the defouler is placed. What fuses you suggest I check? I've been reading about my code and it seems like it is mostly related to the IAF which I assume would negate the O2 sensor issues. I read there are 2 IAF sensors but one is roughly 30 bucks to replace and the other is part of the MAP sensor but I would have to replace the whole thing so that's roughly 190 bucks. I think I'll start with the $30 sensor and see where I end up.
Also, I have noticed my battery doesn't last very long, I had it on run with the headlights on for about 5 maybe 10 minutes and the battery died. I don't think that used to happen so quickly in the past. Any way a bad battery could cause this?
#5
Nice build, looks great. I agree with whoever said to break up all the black with some grey rims.
Anyways, the picture you have of your downpipe doesn't show the second O2 sensor which is where the defouler is placed. What fuses you suggest I check? I've been reading about my code and it seems like it is mostly related to the IAF which I assume would negate the O2 sensor issues. I read there are 2 IAF sensors but one is roughly 30 bucks to replace and the other is part of the MAP sensor but I would have to replace the whole thing so that's roughly 190 bucks. I think I'll start with the $30 sensor and see where I end up.
Also, I have noticed my battery doesn't last very long, I had it on run with the headlights on for about 5 maybe 10 minutes and the battery died. I don't think that used to happen so quickly in the past. Any way a bad battery could cause this?
Anyways, the picture you have of your downpipe doesn't show the second O2 sensor which is where the defouler is placed. What fuses you suggest I check? I've been reading about my code and it seems like it is mostly related to the IAF which I assume would negate the O2 sensor issues. I read there are 2 IAF sensors but one is roughly 30 bucks to replace and the other is part of the MAP sensor but I would have to replace the whole thing so that's roughly 190 bucks. I think I'll start with the $30 sensor and see where I end up.
Also, I have noticed my battery doesn't last very long, I had it on run with the headlights on for about 5 maybe 10 minutes and the battery died. I don't think that used to happen so quickly in the past. Any way a bad battery could cause this?
#7
I haven't figured out my SHAWD light but the check emissions are the same as mine. My car is a stock 08 and local dealer pulled codes and sent it back to mechanic who said I need new cat SYSTEM. Not just a catalytic converter, the said it's a system with a preheater and converter. $2000 With labor.
i have called parts houses and they have no idea what I'm talking about.
Dealer says it will eventually clog and shut car down and potentially damage turbo.
I'm pissed but not giving up. Even stock this RDX kicks a$$
i have called parts houses and they have no idea what I'm talking about.
Dealer says it will eventually clog and shut car down and potentially damage turbo.
I'm pissed but not giving up. Even stock this RDX kicks a$$
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#8
So just an update on this issue, just in case anyone experiences something similar in the future...
Initially I started with replacing the secondary air temperature sensor which is located within the intake manifold and incredibly easy to access. Part is found in the link below:
https://acura.bernardiparts.com/Acur...0-RWC-A01.aspx
Replacing this sensor initially resolved the problem for the first 100 miles but then returned a CEL around the 150 mile mark.
I then proceeded to swap the primary air temperature sensor which is unfortunately located in the MAF sensor. I did not want to replace this to start off with because the MAF sensor is about $180 from Acura but my brother suggest I find an aftermarket one. I found this MAF sensor on Amazon:
https://acura.bernardiparts.com/Acur...0-RWC-A01.aspx
To this date, I have driven over 150 miles with this sensor and I have not had any CEL pop back up. I am also happy to say that I passed NYS inspection today so I dare say my issue has been fully resolved by replacing the MAF sensor.
Hope this helps someone in the future, happy car modding!
Current engine mods:
CP-E intake
ETS intercooler
RV-6 downpipe with high flow cat
Initially I started with replacing the secondary air temperature sensor which is located within the intake manifold and incredibly easy to access. Part is found in the link below:
https://acura.bernardiparts.com/Acur...0-RWC-A01.aspx
Replacing this sensor initially resolved the problem for the first 100 miles but then returned a CEL around the 150 mile mark.
I then proceeded to swap the primary air temperature sensor which is unfortunately located in the MAF sensor. I did not want to replace this to start off with because the MAF sensor is about $180 from Acura but my brother suggest I find an aftermarket one. I found this MAF sensor on Amazon:
https://acura.bernardiparts.com/Acur...0-RWC-A01.aspx
To this date, I have driven over 150 miles with this sensor and I have not had any CEL pop back up. I am also happy to say that I passed NYS inspection today so I dare say my issue has been fully resolved by replacing the MAF sensor.
Hope this helps someone in the future, happy car modding!
Current engine mods:
CP-E intake
ETS intercooler
RV-6 downpipe with high flow cat
Last edited by FC2012RDX; 01-10-2018 at 02:55 PM.