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Hello - my wife’s Acura RDX 2007 AC stopped working.
i have tested, all fuzes on the car and can’t seem to figure out why the clutch is not triggering anymore. Both fans turn on, the compressor turns on with no problems. I have a AC kit at home and check the Freeon level and when I followed all the steps like my other Acura’s I noticed with the AC on full, gauge on the low valve with car running it’s in the red. Not sure why that’s happening but I didn’t want to add more freeon because I didn’t know what was going on with her car since the clutch wasn’t kicking in on the car. I also thought about the low pressure switch but couldn’t see my to find it on her car.
Can anyone give me any tips? Should I add more freeon?
Hello - my wife’s Acura RDX 2007 AC stopped working.
i have tested, all fuzes on the car and can’t seem to figure out why the clutch is not triggering anymore. Both fans turn on, the compressor turns on with no problems. I have a AC kit at home and check the Freeon level and when I followed all the steps like my other Acura’s I noticed with the AC on full, gauge on the low valve with car running it’s in the red. Not sure why that’s happening but I didn’t want to add more freeon because I didn’t know what was going on with her car since the clutch wasn’t kicking in on the car. I also thought about the low pressure switch but couldn’t see my to find it on her car.
Can anyone give me any tips? Should I add more freeon?
thanks,
Join the group. Check Problems and Fixes. It seems the RDX AC has issues.
Hello, we are having problems with are AC and based on the notes here, I cant seem to figure out-the problem. I have tested everything, fuses, fans and belts. Everything seems to work but the clutch stopped kicking in and when i test the AC coolant, start the car and crank the AC the gage in in red zone no in the low area. I don't want to fill the coolant up but would this be causes the problems? Would the pressure switch be a problem here? I have never seen this before on any of my Acuras.
Hello, we are having problems with are AC and based on the notes here, I cant seem to figure out-the problem. I have tested everything, fuses, fans and belts. Everything seems to work but the clutch stopped kicking in and when i test the AC coolant, start the car and crank the AC the gage in in red zone no in the low area. I don't want to fill the coolant up but would this be causes the problems? Would the pressure switch be a problem here? I have never seen this before on any of my Acuras.
check the A/C relay. if good and clutch still not engaging, perhaps clutch has seized.
dont worry about what you've seen in other cars, we're troubleshooting A/C components...which is pretty standard. first step is to make sure A/C relay is good.
thanks for the note. I checked the relay, even changed the relay fuse but still nothing. the compresser turns on, both fans work when I set the gage to see if the AC coolant is low, the gage sits in the red rather the green. Not sure what else to check or how to get the clutch fired back up again
1) check the 2 relays in the engine compartment(there are 2 with the snow flake icon)
2) check the field coil on the compressor.
The symptoms sounds like the field coil from what I have read. The AC works fine but when outside temps gets hot like above 90 degrees, AC stops working. Once it cools off outside, AC works again.
If it turns out to be the field coil, I believe Acura extended the warranty on the field coil to 100K miles so it might be covered under warranty.
these posters have diagnosed and troubleshooted and have laid out the ground work
Originally Posted by maltbie
Here's an update to my prior posts. Eight days after my dealer submitted the request, Acura agreed to pay 80% of the cost for a new A/C compressor and related parts. I'm glad I did not get it fixed at an independent garage. I got the car back yesterday. The A/C blows much colder than it ever did, so I suspect there was a problem with the A/C all along and not just a sudden failure two weeks ago.
Originally Posted by Douglas Eaton
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I ran the diagnostic test and the result was AUTO ON and the bottom center of the left digit (like an underscore).
I searched the web for diagnostic code table and found an excerpt PDF that I attached here, but it is for the 2008 MDX. Does anyone know if the code values are the same?
My heat and a/c are both not working. The car blows air that is just ambient temperature. They stopped working this past winter, I suspect at the same time (ac was fine a few months prior). I suspect it could be a separate problem going on with the driver side vent motor. It moves, it looks and sounds like it might be a bit labored. and previously the driver side was never as cold as the passenger side given the same ac settings. however, that can’t be the source of the AC and heat both failing to work.
As part of diagnosing this, I see that the RDX and MDX have a “sensor input display mode” that allows you to see hvac sensor values. I was able to start my 07 RDX in sensor mode per the MDX directions (hold auto and recirc control buttons while starting the car), but can I use the MDX table as an accurate guide?
The MDX manual says that sensor 1 is the in-car temperature. My RDX sensor 1 reads 02 deg Celsius, which is nowhere near correct because it’s the middle of the summer. I would greatly appreciate any help.
Originally Posted by Douglas Eaton
Update:
My AC compressor clutch relay was bad. Swapped it with the fog lights and the AC is back on. Yay!
After a couple hours of messing around the diagnostic tests and cycling the temps up and down, the heat came back, but thats only a temporary fix.. when I took it to my local shop the same thing happened and a week later the heat stopped working. So, I need to figure out what’s going on there maybe something to do with the air mixer?
Also, I still get the code that I mentioned above when I run the AC self diagnostics. It’s most likely the driver side vent door motor or linkage or something. It would be nice to confirm if that’s the correct code.
Looks like they replaced relays(2) to fix the problem, and if that didnt fix the problem...they have troubleshooted and diagnosed the compressor..
if your relays are good, then as I suspected...the clutch to the compressor has failed.
So, I couldn’t find a write up on replacing the compressor, so I thought I would add this.
Lots of info on replacing the coil etc, but this was a super easy job with the right tools. I know I’ve seen dealer quotes as high as $1400. This was about $160 all together.
It’s not a bad job, start to finish was 3 hours, but to be fair, I didn’t replace the drier or condenser, which you should. Maybe I’ll do this again next year and do it properly. I was time and $$ limited this weekend. Rock Auto has a complete kit for about $260 with shipping.
The compressor itself isn’t expensive. $150 with a coupon from Advance Auto.
The tools you need are minimal.
Floor jack
Lights
Serpentine belt tool
10mm socket
12mm socket
10mm wrench (ratcheting)
12mm wrench (ratcheting)
3/8” Ratchet
3/8” stubby ratchet
3” extension
Pick
A/C Manifold gauges
Vacuum pump
Hook up your gauges, and empty any gas left in your system.
Close and remove them
Disconnect the battery
Remove the radiator overflow container Just move to the side
Remove the AC cooling fan. 10mm nuts and an electrical connector on the lower right side.
Release the tension on the serpentine belt. Using a purposeful tool makes this simple. Slide it off the alternator and AC pulleys.
Remove the alternator. It’s straightforward. 3 10mm bolts, 1 electrical connector and a 10mm nut.
You can easily access the compressor at this point. There’s no reason to remove a tire or inner fender liner. Alternator. 3 bolts and it’s out. Much better room. You can remove the AC line on the left at this point.
Remove the front (low pressure) line 10mm nut. Put this in a baggie to prevent contamination.
Don’t remove the high pressure line yet.
Remove the (4) 10mm bolts holing on the compressor. For the 2 on the bottom, you’ll need to jack up the car slightly to reach the bolts on the bottom. A ratcheting wrench really helps at this point. Bottom bolts Too bolts
Remove the compressor and turn on its side to remove the high side line at this point. Compressor on it’s side. Remove the high pressure line 10mm bolt. New and old
Installation is the reverse
Use the pic to replace the o-rings. My compressor came with new ones. Coat them in oil prior to installing.
The 2007 Acura 134a capacity is 15.9 oz. 2 twelve ounce cans ( $4.99 ea).
The oil capacity is PAG -46 6.5oz
My compressor came pre filled with 3.0 oz, so I didn’t add any more.
The notes from the FSM say” if you’re installing a new AC compressor you must calculate the amount of refrigerant oil to be removed from it.” This was aftermarket, so I just did the math. ( see pic)
Once everything is bolted back together, attach your AC gauges and a vacuum pump to the charge port. Open up all connections and turn on the pump.
Let the pump run at least 10-15 minutes.
After 20, I turned it off, and let the system sit for another 10 to check for leaks.
Close all your valves, disconnect the vacuum pump, and attach your first can of 134a.
Start your car, turn on the AC.
Open ONLY the low side ports.
Open the 134a and watch your gauges.
Mine filled to about 42 PSI, after a can and a half.
Close every thing up and you should be good to go.
I performed a dynamic test after that and everything was within specs.
Hopefully this will hold for a while.
Originally Posted by andyharbison
So, I couldn’t find a write up on replacing the compressor, so I thought I would add this.
Lots of info on replacing the coil etc, but this was a super easy job with the right tools. I know I’ve seen dealer quotes as high as $1400. This was about $160 all together.
It’s not a bad job, start to finish was 3 hours, but to be fair, I didn’t replace the drier or condenser, which you should. Maybe I’ll do this again next year and do it properly. I was time and $$ limited this weekend. Rock Auto has a complete kit for about $260 with shipping.
The compressor itself isn’t expensive. $150 with a coupon from Advance Auto.
The tools you need are minimal.
Floor jack
Lights
Serpentine belt tool
10mm socket
12mm socket
10mm wrench (ratcheting)
12mm wrench (ratcheting)
3/8” Ratchet
3/8” stubby ratchet
3” extension
Pick
A/C Manifold gauges
Vacuum pump
Hook up your gauges, and empty any gas left in your system.
Close and remove them
Disconnect the battery
Remove the radiator overflow container Just move to the side
Remove the AC cooling fan. 10mm nuts and an electrical connector on the lower right side.
Release the tension on the serpentine belt. Using a purposeful tool makes this simple. Slide it off the alternator and AC pulleys.
Remove the alternator. It’s straightforward. 3 10mm bolts, 1 electrical connector and a 10mm nut.
You can easily access the compressor at this point. There’s no reason to remove a tire or inner fender liner. Alternator. 3 bolts and it’s out. Much better room. You can remove the AC line on the left at this point.
Remove the front (low pressure) line 10mm nut. Put this in a baggie to prevent contamination.
Don’t remove the high pressure line yet.
Remove the (4) 10mm bolts holing on the compressor. For the 2 on the bottom, you’ll need to jack up the car slightly to reach the bolts on the bottom. A ratcheting wrench really helps at this point. Bottom bolts Too bolts
Remove the compressor and turn on its side to remove the high side line at this point. Compressor on it’s side. Remove the high pressure line 10mm bolt. New and old
Installation is the reverse
Use the pic to replace the o-rings. My compressor came with new ones. Coat them in oil prior to installing.
The 2007 Acura 134a capacity is 15.9 oz. 2 twelve ounce cans ( $4.99 ea).
The oil capacity is PAG -46 6.5oz
My compressor came pre filled with 3.0 oz, so I didn’t add any more.
The notes from the FSM say” if you’re installing a new AC compressor you must calculate the amount of refrigerant oil to be removed from it.” This was aftermarket, so I just did the math. ( see pic)
Once everything is bolted back together, attach your AC gauges and a vacuum pump to the charge port. Open up all connections and turn on the pump.
Let the pump run at least 10-15 minutes.
After 20, I turned it off, and let the system sit for another 10 to check for leaks.
Close all your valves, disconnect the vacuum pump, and attach your first can of 134a.
Start your car, turn on the AC.
Open ONLY the low side ports.
Open the 134a and watch your gauges.
Mine filled to about 42 PSI, after a can and a half.
Close every thing up and you should be good to go.
I performed a dynamic test after that and everything was within specs.
Hopefully this will hold for a while.
Last edited by justnspace; 08-10-2020 at 12:21 PM.
My AC only works when I don't really need it. When it gets hot enough to need it, it doesn't work. I went to a shop today and asked if they could swap in an electric driven one from a Prius. He said he'd check it out and call me.
He looked intrigued. He said he has lots of trouble with Acura ac clutches being weak.
Well if you know it is the AC clutch, you need to either replace that, or get a whole new compressor. You could try to remove a washer out of the clutch to see if the gap would close just enough to keep the clutch engaged. That is what I did to my wife’s 2010 Honda CRV with the same AC compressor unit. An electric Prius one? Really. Two different car brands and it is electrically driven by a hybrid battery. Cost sounds enormous.
would the clutch not engaging cause the reading of the L pressure gage being in the read? This I've read and seen, if the refrigerant is low something the catch does not engage
Well if you know it is the AC clutch, you need to either replace that, or get a whole new compressor. You could try to remove a washer out of the clutch to see if the gap would close just enough to keep the clutch engaged. That is what I did to my wife’s 2010 Honda CRV with the same AC compressor unit. An electric Prius one? Really. Two different car brands and it is electrically driven by a hybrid battery. Cost sounds enormous.
I've read the threads. I could either spend the money buying new stuff that is known to be a problem every few years or replace it with something once. The Prius ac unit https://www.buyautoparts.com/buynow/...or/60-03185_NC is 12 vdc. so it wouldn't need a special system to run it. A relay using the the clutch power as the driver would be quite simple. Have The Hose Shop make the hoses, but the mounting would be the difficult part, apartment living, ya know?
The 110 amp alternator is capable of generating a max of about 1500 watts in ideal conditions. Typical vehicle air conditioning systems will require 2-3 times the wattage to run. Is a 300+ amp alternator part of the swap?
The 110 amp alternator is capable of generating a max of about 1500 watts in ideal conditions. Typical vehicle air conditioning systems will require 2-3 times the wattage to run. Is a 300+ amp alternator part of the swap?
I've replaced the condenser coil, relay, clutch and evaporator, each time the compressor cuts off to protect itself. In fact, I've lost AC again. Evaporator keeps springing leaks.
I never said it wasn't, but that site is definitely not looking any 21st century cars when it comes to adding a/c. I also wish it had info in terms of cooling capacity and electrical demand of the units it's selling. The concept is interesting, the presentation is lacking. But if you go that route, good luck and I hope it works.
I never said it wasn't, but that site is definitely not looking any 21st century cars when it comes to adding a/c. I also wish it had info in terms of cooling capacity and electrical demand of the units it's selling. The concept is interesting, the presentation is lacking. But if you go that route, good luck and I hope it works.
Thank you. I understand that a Prius is smaller than an RDX so it may have to work harder, but I don't live in the desert south west and seldom see over 90°. I'll see how it turns out and let y'all know.
my rdx AC clutch was burnt up but recall has a specific timeframe so i was over that. bought a replacement on ebay that fits and replaced the clutch and pulley. the electric coil was still in honda spec so i left it alone. topped of the gas and everything worked great (2 yrs ago). just make sure spacing for clutch and pulley is within honda spec
If clutch is not burnt out and it is just the clutch coil spacing, taking a washer out to close up the gap works. Did this on the 2010 CRV in March in Florida, and it has lasted the whole summer blowing cold air. Did I mention this is in Central Florida? Have not had to do this on the 2011 RDX yet (knock on wood).
My AC only works when I don't really need it. When it gets hot enough to need it, it doesn't work. I went to a shop today and asked if they could swap in an electric driven one from a Prius. He said he'd check it out and call me.
He looked intrigued. He said he has lots of trouble with Acura ac clutches being weak.
He said it wouldn't be feasible. The charging system would never keep up with the drain.
check the A/C relay. if good and clutch still not engaging, perhaps clutch has seized.
dont worry about what you've seen in other cars, we're troubleshooting A/C components...which is pretty standard. first step is to make sure A/C relay is good.
Yes, if you're AC quits suddenly (not just not getting as cold over time) then the relay is the first thing to check. My AC quit suddenly one day. A $12 relay and the problem was fixed in 5 minutes.
Finally had to fill up my 2011 AC with a can of R134-a earlier this year. Guess it means there is a slow leak in the system. Still blowing cold so far in July, so if a $6 can of refrigerant is all it costs for even six months, it is a bargain fix. Check relay and check refrigerant levels before you go further into looking at more expensive parts. Just my opinion.
My 2010 needed a recharge earlier this year - it had been declining slowly over the last few years. My shop also replaced the schrader valves, I suspect the rubber seals in those degrade over time, so you may want to look at replacing those if your a/c starts to decline again relatively soon. It should last several years between recharges assuming everything is working fine.
2009 RDX with intermittent A/C not blowing cold air. Fans running strong, compressor kicking on. Bought a recharge kit and attached to the low side per label instructions. Gauge said check for other issues, would not take a charge. This told me that I had pressure instead of a vacuum condition. I also realized that the compressor wasn't cycling. Found this thread and followed the advice to swap relays in the engine bay fuse box. Presto-changeo, different relay swapped in to position and immediately had cold air again. I was also able to use the charging kit and verified that the system had plenty of refrigerant and no more pressure condition. $11 part saved me a ton of time and money and made my daughter's drive back to school much more comfortable!
08-09-2020, 09:51 PM
