A/C not working
#122
Had the exact same problem on my 2007 RDX with 105K miles - the compressor would intermittently not engage (but the system worked great when it did). I replaced the relay - no help. I then measured the gap between the clutch armature and rotor - about .035" which is larger than the spec'd .020". I had heard that there is a spacer washer in there so I removed the armature, found and removed a .023" washer, reassembled, and voila - it's working perfectly.
The theory here is that the armature wears over time, creating a big enough gap eventually that the coil isn't strong enough to always pull the armature in. Close the gap some (change or remove washer) and it's "renewed".
I should be good for another 100K miles!
The theory here is that the armature wears over time, creating a big enough gap eventually that the coil isn't strong enough to always pull the armature in. Close the gap some (change or remove washer) and it's "renewed".
I should be good for another 100K miles!
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Dark_Rican (07-13-2020)
#123
AC clutch temp fixed
My lady's 2010 RDX A/C worked fine when she bought it back earlier this year. One owner. I then started to notice that in the morning it would work fine nice and cold. But if the weather got hotter during the day it would blow hot air. Also the A/C would work on initial start but if turned off and back on, it would be hot. I noticed that it would blow ice cold as long as the A/C was engaging. Car has 184k miles and way out of warranty range.So my first thought was to troubleshoot the relays. Swapped relays with new ones and no luck. I jumped the clutch relay location in the fuse box and there was no clutch engaging. So I decided to check the clutch spacing/gap and noticed it was bigger than the .023 spec mentioned above. I removed the clutch without disconnecting the hoses. Theres a guy on youtube who replaces the clutch and coil on an 07 rdx. I removed the shim and the clutch now engages. I checked the Hi and Lo pressures with my AC guages and they are in normal operating ranges. I was thinking of replacing the whole compressor but since there are no leaks and it is still operating fine, I will order a replacement clutch and coil kit. The original is working for now but it was a bit worn. Hope this helps anyone else dealing with this issue.
#124
I was able to do it just yesterday. Clutch now engages and A/C works ice cold again. Just make sure you don't have any leaks either. Because then you'll need to fix that or replace the compressor. Our clutch still needs replacing but at least it works until the part comes in.
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Dark_Rican (08-22-2020)
#126
I've been having the same issue. AC blows cold in the morning, but when the car is restarted after my trip, it doesn't work at all. Same with starting in the afternoon sitting in the sun. Anyway, I replaced my first compressor two years ago last week, so of course the replacement is out of warranty. My local shop tested everything and they think it's a thermal switch that's gone bad but are recommending full replacement of the compressor. They haven't given me a quote yet, but i'm finding that the thermal switch can be replaced on it's own, so I may take elsewhere for a second opinion.
#127
Hi All,
I have 2011 RDX turbo. I started by checking pressure (reads 100psi static). Did the relay swap and still clutch did not engage. When the A/C button is activated FAN turns on and I verified 14 VCD at the input to the Coil connector (red wire). Dealer diagnosed failed Coil, so I purchased kits from Acura for Coil, Pulley/Clutch assemblies. Using the vast trove of info on the forum I replaced the parts and all seemed to go well. When I torqued the bolt on securing the clutch to the threaded shaft on the compressor I found the air gap exceeding the 0.35-.065 mm specification. The air gap I have is approx 0.75 without using any of the spacer shims. Anyone have any advise on what I may of missed ?
Additionally: I called the dealer and they were not willing to help with the air gap issue. FYI, I disassembled and used my micrometer to check some of the dimensions from the old parts -vs- the new parts and did not identify any notable differences. Also, I checked to ensure the two snap rings were seated properly. Reassembled and still have air gap exceeding the spec.
I have 2011 RDX turbo. I started by checking pressure (reads 100psi static). Did the relay swap and still clutch did not engage. When the A/C button is activated FAN turns on and I verified 14 VCD at the input to the Coil connector (red wire). Dealer diagnosed failed Coil, so I purchased kits from Acura for Coil, Pulley/Clutch assemblies. Using the vast trove of info on the forum I replaced the parts and all seemed to go well. When I torqued the bolt on securing the clutch to the threaded shaft on the compressor I found the air gap exceeding the 0.35-.065 mm specification. The air gap I have is approx 0.75 without using any of the spacer shims. Anyone have any advise on what I may of missed ?
Additionally: I called the dealer and they were not willing to help with the air gap issue. FYI, I disassembled and used my micrometer to check some of the dimensions from the old parts -vs- the new parts and did not identify any notable differences. Also, I checked to ensure the two snap rings were seated properly. Reassembled and still have air gap exceeding the spec.
#128
CSmoney28
Our relays, clutches and compressors are known to go bad on the RDX they actually had a extended warranty sent out for them at one point of course mine died after that extended warranty period and I replaced the whole system since the relay, clutch, and compressor went bad
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Alexo (09-13-2020)
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