TheWrench116

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my tune turned up 269.95WHP and 279.99 WTQ and I am willing to share.

BigHatch

I need flashpro...but too many other things going on right now.

the local shop I found for my MR2 actually outsources their AWD tuning to Church right now... prob a good place to tune when I can get it all goin

Those are great numbers though wrench... it'll prob help a lot of people out.

TheWrench116

iTrader: (1)

if I wanted more I could probably get it but its got enough balls to spin in first and second.

hues10

Being a novice here, but with all the mods you have, shouldn't you be getting more HP and TQ? The Flashpro and intake I thought would give you +30 HP alone. Put the downpipe in, and isn't that an additional 15HP? Not complaining, as I get a kick out of being able to change Oxygen sensors, so being able to mod things and the car still works, would be a sense of pride. Just want to get the biggest bang for buck kind of thing.

TheWrench116

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these numbers were obtained at the wheel. factory numbers are at the crank shaft. its not the same thing. you loose anywhere from 15-30% through the driveline.

driveline is defined as transmission, ring and pinion, transfer case, axles and wheel tire setup.
WHP + driveline losses= crankshaft
so conservatively 270 + 15% =310

or on the hi side 270 + 30% =351
and the rdx is rated at 245 crank hp and I'm at 269 wheel horse power

RDX0012

RV-6 dp, CP-E intake, ETS intercooler, Hondata Flashpro w/800cc injectors, thermal gasket...Are those all of your upgrade or there is more to have 269 whp...and you tuned it with flashpro on a dyno???

TheWrench116

iTrader: (1)

the # was made with me tuning on a dynojet and ME tuning the flashpro
everything in my signature was on the car at the time.

RDX0012

Ok nice work.

RDX_NRG

I'll be getting all of your upgrades within the next month Wench. How could I get your tune from you?

RDX0012

Im doing the same thing, but I will have the K&N intake. I live in canada quebec so I fear to have water and snow going in the CP-E Intake.

hues10

Thanks for the clarification Wrench, told you I was a novice. I have been reading these boards for six months, and nobody ever mentioned "driveline" vs. "crankshaft". So basically, your RDX kicks butt !! Now, with my "Green" hat on, is the MPG noticeably better, worse, or about the same?

RDX_NRG

I have the CP-E intake and i live in Edmonton, worse winter weather than quebec and have never had an issue with the CP-E.

Order it with the water condom (don't know the technical) and you'll be fine.

I've had it for 3 years

TheWrench116

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I have mine extended down to the fog light opening. but that was all me and I still have no issues. but to each their own. ill be more then happy to work with people to get them a tune. as far as mileage it sucks but im working on my part throttle tune and will do more with that once I fix my P0325 knock sensor issue. have the parts coming in a few days.?. I hope.

TheWrench116

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I don't think mine likes cold weather anymore. cause it popped on again today.

bluecarbonfiber

time for new sensor =)

TheWrench116

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yeah good news is I found out where it is located on the block.
looks easy enough to get to. hope the old one like falls apart when I take it out. then I know its smoked.

bluecarbonfiber

im curious if it helps keep us posted.. really hope this isnt something that becomes problematic for our engine.. wonder is the k24 or k20 would be better (less sensitive)

TheWrench116

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yeah that would suck... hey I made 250+ whp and by the way you need to change your knock sensor every oil change...

andrewbenjack

I did that but I got a engine light occasionally saying it was running lean. That was before the hondata flash. Is it different after the flash

TheWrench116

iTrader: (1)

I get a cel but not for that usually when I start from scratch with a new map and forget to turn off the secondary 02 sensor... or over boost... the most recent is the knock sensor... the others are a known issues I'm a little concerned about the knock sensor thing but we will see all the fluids are still the right colors.

TheWrench116

iTrader: (1)

I was logging on the way home near my house we have a big a$$ hill like a 2 mile 5% or more grade. turned off the radio and a/c heard a little pinging but the air temps were in the 120+ range which is way more then what I was seeing on the dyno so I adjusted the fuel trim to richen it up at elevated temps and to start pulling timing out based on air temp as well. so in the stupid hot summer you wont have to worry about the top mount getting heat soaked... it will hurt power not the motor. like I said you could hear it not feel it. could also see the stuff on the log of the run.

KenB350z

Knock sensor should be located in the front of the block easy access and the sensor is just a microphone for the ecu that is it. So, keep the noise down in the engine and you're golden.

TheWrench116

iTrader: (1)

yeah I fingered it yesterday. just to find it. need to wait for the replacement to arrive.

KenB350z

You may try and smooth out the tune first. Humble did mention that; although, you're making Tq and Hp it's not consistent. It drops off rather abruptly. For an example, with the two tunes below; you may get me from a dip. But, every shift I would pull HARD! It's probably something with the fuel. You definitely want it to keep pulling up top, you can see my new tune puts down 280hp from somewhere after vtec to redline.

TheWrench116

iTrader: (1)

I just don't have the air needed to maintain after 6,000 rpm I'm holding boost now but it is a tiny turbo. and its kind of hard to compare apples to apples with your pulls in 3 vs 4 and yours reading in MPH and mine being RPM. also I need a turbo... and to get the water meth hooked up.

KenB350z

Looks like your Tq starts to drop at 4750k and your Hp start to drop at 5750k, I think the shift point is around 4750k or higher. So, you need the power to stay within those higher shift range. The old tune still pulled up though. (without upgrades/ rpm, etc.) Not sure if the gear is a big deal though, Alex made a 2 gear pull and made 270hp just messing around.

KenB350z

I guess with both of my tunes, when Vtec engages is when things start to happen.

BigHatch

In Toyota MR2 turbo circles, stock knock sensors are replaced with a cheaper and better/more durable knock sensor from GM. I'm sure I could look up what from.

Maybe there's a better alternative from elsewhere that isn't so finicky?

bluecarbonfiber

is this because of the turbo cams??

TheWrench116

iTrader: (1)

I have Vtec set at 3500RPM so its easier on gas and is generally smother to drive.

what is your set at ken?

KenB350z

You need to have zero knock and a smooth power curve. I would highly recommend this, before sharing tunes. You wouldn't want someone to get your tune and their motor goes boom! I guess you could just put in a disclaimer with it. Just saying..

TheWrench116

iTrader: (1)

whatever I wind up offering people its more then likely going to be a decent tune that's safe it will pull timing when the iat gets hi and as long as they run 93 with 10% ethanol they will be fine. keep in mind that I didn't have any knock on the dyno and I also didn't adjust the igniton map at all I left it as hondata programed it. they (HONDATA) aren't going to "blow up" a motor as it would kill their rep if people were using base maps and things went BOOM I simply backed off the knock sesetivity about 15 points across the board. and I never incountered any knock which means there is more power left. how much more I don't know. I cant afford a motor and I don't have head studs yet. before I stard really going for the BIG number I want to make sure I have new timing chain tensioner and the filters that are in the block. also an oil cooler and MOST importantly. no more payment!!! so I can afford to buy SPARE parts cause it sucks to have to wait for things to come in in order to get back on the road.

but rest assured I'm not going to offer anyone anything I haven't driven first. I'll only send out a map that I've driven on and I do mean HARD. the flip side is that I'm by no means a PRO at this im still learning and this tune that I offer should be used as a means to save time on the dyno and by extension $$$ if you spend 6 hours on a dyno its going to cost you a boat load of money. this is not going to be a MAXED out tune it will be safe. and better then the base tune.

KenB350z

Yeah, 93 is crazy to get now. Most run 91. However, I did found 93, but it's damn near 5 buck a gallon. I guess if you're share tunes, make one for 91 because most are running it. But if you have 93 and are running it, it shouldn't be a problem.

KenB350z

Haha, Hondata doesn't tune your car. The tuner or you DIY. You can blow your motor if you are not good at tuning. It's not fail safe.

TheWrench116

iTrader: (1)

yeah im interested let me know what you have.

TheWrench116

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@ken

hondata provides a base map to work off of and they wont put something out that will destroy a motor. in my honest opinion.

TheWrench116

iTrader: (1)

SO good news the P0325 knock sensor circuit 1 code was caused by a dead knock sensor... guess I cant bitch it did last 97,000 miles. and was easy enough to change. also the mileage screen on the car was reading 52mpg avg and although I know its wrong ive never had it read that hi so I think this means I'm getting better mileage!

so this tune is now declared SAFE but as always more testing and tuning will follow!

and as I said before this isn't a MAX effort tune this is a SAFE tune there is no knock under my driving conditions with my exact combination. your results may vary.

I can tell you this will save you time on the dyno if you decide to get a PRO tune down the line and if they charge by the hour it could save you a LOT.

TheWrench116

iTrader: (1)

more good news this tank is at half and I've gone 305 miles and I'm usually good for another 50 miles after that so defiantly getting better mileage with this tune this was highway with the cruise set at 70mph through hilly terrain so if you do a bunch of flat ground then you'll see even better mileage!

bluecarbonfiber

next fill up you should take the number of mileage and divide it by the gallons to fill up.. so 350 miles on speedo divided by 11.44 gallons on gas receipt the real mpg would be 30.59 then you can compare it to what it says on the gas gauge

TheWrench116

iTrader: (1)

335.xx miles
15.359 gallons
21.81=MPG

so not stellar but not bad considering it was also me driving not my wife. and although I did go down on CC I was kind of enjoying the looks I got from people light to light. bmw and merc were like wtf and an older gti. just couldn't resist.