who is the best brake pads for rdx
 

?????

EBC Yellow stuff is great!

i am the best brake pad

just kidding. i've got the akebono ceramics all around. i've also upgraded my brake lines to rotora ss lines with muse brake fluid.

SuperP, where did you get the brake lines?

i used to run ebc green all around, but found that they weren't that great.

i ordered the ss lines from a local shop who is a rotora retail seller. any rotora retailer should be able to order these lines for you.

EBC Yellow seen OK but still putting out lot of brake dust around my rim.
Stock seen to make vibrate little at the end when I drive hard and stop fast.
EBC Yellow seen to be ok. Plus i did put drill sloted rotor all around.

anything ceramic is better then stock at high speed. I used pepboy brand and they work pretty good and were only 42 for the fronts.

EBC Yellow Rear Pads.
https://acurazine.com/forums/picture...ictureid=18355
EBC Yellow Front Pads.
https://acurazine.com/forums/picture...ictureid=18353

i love ur brake calipers man

Did you get the:

FIVE 3.5" curved decals
FIVE 3" striaght decals
FIVE 2" straight decals.

That's what I got. It come all that decal in one pkg. deal.

are SS brake lines all the same size?? (noob to things like that)

and are there rules when it comes to modding AWD platforms?

Problem with the RDX is the rotor size. They are too small to stop a 4000 pound vehicle. I fitted EBC greens and drilled/slotted front rotors and while braking has improved at all speeds (and they no longer fade with repeated application at 80 MPH), they are not fantastic, merely adequate. There's plenty of room for bigger rotors in there, too.

Joe

I've decided to go with the Rotora pads that go with the rotors on the advise of one of our guys here.

guys using the EBC pads...will they fit perfectly?i am about to replace my pads with "EBC green". lastly, the mechanic at my acura dealer told me that the stock pad on the passenger rear has reached 3mm....he recommended to replace it now...is that accurate?just curious..what is the exact thickness of the pads which would need a replacement?thank you for your replies.....

Front Pad Thickness
Standard : 11.5 -12.2 mm ( 0.45 -0.48 In.)
Service Limit: 1.6 mm ( 0.06 In. )

Rear Pad Thickness
Standard : 8.3 -9.0 mm ( 0.33 -0.35 In.)
Service Limit: 1.6 mm ( 0.06 In. )

I would replaced Soon.
I have EBC Yellow pads W/ drill sloted rotor. Much better then stock.
Good Luck

the guy at the online store adviced me that for just daily driving...use the green...red for ..agressive...yellow for racing...now he told me that if I would choose red and yellow...it will just eat the rotor fast..is our rotor a performance one?or I may need to change the rotor as well..to conform the specs of the red and yellow EBC pads.any insights on this guys..thank you

Crown has brakelines for the RDX. I sent them a set of stock lines as template to make their RDX lines. What set the Crown lines different from the others is, Crown has a layer of kevlar on top of the teflon before the stainless-steel outer shielding, and on top of the Stainless steel layer there is a PVC coating to make things look pretty.
http://www.crownperformance.com/index.html

They sell the brakelines thru G-Spec Performance.
http://www.gspec.com/

As for pads, try the Porterfield R4S pads. These are carbon kevlar pads that friendly to the rotor. If you want even more stopping power, get the R4 version, it will literally make your RDX stop on a dime, but R4 is very aggressive it's not rotor friendly.

EBC Redstuff/new rotors
 

Just installed EBC redstuff pads and drilled/slotted rotors on the front. Got rotors from OC Autosports for about $150. Still breaking them in, will report after 200 miles on them. They have to be better than the OEM crap.

Rdx brakes-drive 30k/yr pls recommend the best brakes-pads + rotors
 

how did the EBC reddtuff and drilled slotted rotors work out. I agree, the RDX needs bigger rotors, has anyone done this with success? need fronts now

thks

Bob

My advice is to use oem rotors and pads.

Spend your upgrade money on a reflash or flashpro.

Break in your brakes properly and they will function better longer. TMI?

Season the rotors and bed the pads. The procedures may seem too much for an unknown benefit, but it works...

From Baer
What proper "Rotor Preparation" is all about: The first step in preparing the brake system for duty is to "Season" the rotors. The most visible effects are that of burning the machine oils from the surface of the iron and establishing a wear pattern between the pad and rotor. The most complex task it performs is that of relieving the internal stresses within the material. If you've ever poured water into a glass of ice, and noticed the ice cracking, then you've witnessed, first hand, the effects of internal stresses. The rotor casting and cooling processes leave the rotor with internal stresses. By gradually heating the material, the crystalline matrix will reconfigure to relieve these internal stresses. After these stresses are relieved, the rotor is ready to accept the heat of bedding pads. Heating the rotors before they are fully seasoned can result in material deformation due to the unrelieved internal stresses in the material. This deformation may cause a vibration from the brakes. Rotors need to be gradually elevated to "race" temperatures before any severe use. A “nibble,” or slight vibration, normally indicates rotors that were heated too quickly. After initial "Seasoning," when running your car at open track events or serious canyon carving, you should use the first lap of a session (or first couple of miles of open road), to warm the brakes as well as the engine, gearbox, etc. Where an engine turns chemical energy into motion, the brakes turn that motion into thermal energy…and lots of it! And where there is no cooling system for the brakes as there is in the engine, and there's not, the brakes could use the courtesy of a warm-up lap. Remember to ALWAYS WARM THE BRAKES before any heavy use! It is also considered mandatory to run air ducts to the eye (center) of the rotor on any car used on track or in actual competition.

Rotor Seasoning
Use the vehicle for 5 to 6 days of gentle driving. Use the brakes to the same extent that you used the stock brakes. DO NOT TEST PERFORMANCE OR ATTEMPT HEAVY USE UNTIL ALL ITEMS OUTLINED HAVE BEEN COMPLETED. It is imperative that excessive heat is not put into the rotors at this stage. They need temperature-cycling to relieve the internal stresses. **Note: Zinc plated rotors (optional performance upgrade) need a couple of extra days of driving to wear through the plating before "Seasoning" will actually begin. After completing 5-6 days of gentle driving, find a safe location where the brakes can be run to temperature. Your goal is to gradually increase brake temperatures with progressively faster stops.  Start by performing (4) stops from 60 mph to 15 mph, as you would in the normal course of driving.  Next, perform (4) medium effort pedal stops (about 50% of maximum stopping force) from 60 mph down to 15 mph. Follow this with (5) minutes of freeway driving with LITTLE to NO BRAKING to allow the rotors to cool.  Next, perform (4) medium-hard effort pedal stops (about 75%) from 60 mph down to 15 mph. Follow this with (10) minutes of freeway driving with LITTLE to NO BRAKING to allow the rotors to cool.  Park the car and allow the brakes to cool down overnight to ambient temperature. You are now 50% done with the rotor "Seasoning & Bedding" procedure. Proceed to STEP 4 the following day. Return to the safe location where the brakes can be run to temperature. Ensure the brakes are warmed to full operating temperature.  Perform (4) medium effort pedal stops (about 50%) from 60 mph down to 15 mph. Follow this with (5) minutes of freeway driving with LITTLE to NO BRAKING to allow the rotors to cool.  Next, perform (4) medium-hard effort pedal stops (about 75%) from 60 mph down to 15 mph. Follow this with (10) minutes of freeway driving with LITTLE to NO BRAKING to allow the rotors to cool.  Now, make (6) HARD pedal stops from 60+ mph down to 15 mph, or until the rotors have reached an operating temperature between 900°F and 1,100°F. Every effort should be made to perform this procedure without locking a wheel. Follow this with (10) minutes of freeway driving with LITTLE to NO BRAKING to allow the rotors to cool. Let the brake system cool off overnight so that it will be ready for pad bedding.

The Importance of Bedding Brake Pads: The friction material in semi-metallic pads is held together by an organic binder, usually a type of phenolic material. As the pads get hot, the binder boils and burns, from the top surface of the pad. Once this burning or "Bedding" takes place, the friction material makes proper contact with the rotor. Some race/performance pads are designated as "pre-burnished" from the manufacturer. In our experience, these pads still benefit from "Bedding." "Bedding" pads establishes a wear pattern between the pads and rotor. Some pads deposit a layer of carbon on the surface of the rotor. They need that layer of carbon to perform at peak efficiency.

Pad Bedding Procedure
Bedding Metallic or Carbon/Metallic Pads - (NEVER “drag” the brakes) Note: Never "Bed" pads on rotors which have not first been "Seasoned". Always allow a substantial coast down zone when bedding pads that will allow you to safely drive the car to a stop in the event of fade. 
Perform (2) repeated light to medium stops, from 65 to 10 mph, to bring the rotors to temperature. 
Perform (2) heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock or ABS actuation, from 65 mph to about 5 mph.
Drive for (5) to (10) minutes to create cooling airflow, without using the brakes if at all possible. 
Perform (3) light stops in succession. 
Perform (8) heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock, from 65 mph to about 5 mph. 
Drive for (10) minutes to cool the rotors, without using the brakes if at all possible.
NOTE Metallic brake pads need high temperatures to keep the pad. If you drive the car for a period of time without using the brakes extensively, you may need to "Bed" the pads again. This is not a problem. Simply repeat the procedure. When switching from any performance or other Carbon Metallic pads to semi-metallic brake pads (something we do not recommend), you will need to wear through the layer of carbon that the performance pads have deposited on the rotor surface. The new pads won't grip well at all, until this layer of carbon is removed. Racers should "Bed" a few sets of pads at a time. In the event you need to change brake pads during a race, you MUST use a set of "Bedded" pads. Racing on "non-bedded" pads leads to a type of "fade" caused by the binding agents coming out of the pad too quickly. This is called "green fade". These binders may create a liquid (actually a gas) layer between your pads and rotors. Liquids have a very poor coefficient of friction. This condition is the reason for reverse slotting or cross-drilling rotors, as it allows a pathway for the gasses to escape.

I am thinking to buy StopTech. It will be great if anyone share his/her personal experience about this brake pads. Is it worth to buy?(Price around 50 bucks).

:yes: do it

Ok thanks

Anyone try cheap but effective semi metallic pads? I can live with more dust and a little noise. Just looking for more stopping power.