rdx blow off valve help needed
10-10-2011, 01:25 PM
#1
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rdx blow off valve help needed
does anyone actually have a blow off valve that the bought offline and didnt make themselves? if so where did u buy it from cause i cant find anything online where i can get one. i have a 2011 acura rdx i want to do this too. thanks
10-12-2011, 08:46 AM
#3
If you get an aftermarket intake you will be able to hear the stock BPV plenty. There have been several people to give up their intakes because the BPV allows boost to bypass (hence the name) under part throttle. This causes a blow off like sound under part throttle in addition to the actual blow off when letting off the throttle/between gears.
The stock BPV allows boost to bypass under part throttle for fuel economy reasons. If you were to change to a non oem blow off valve AND dump it to atmosphere it would interfere with the tuning of the ECU, as that air it is looking for under part throttle is not there.
The stock BPV allows boost to bypass under part throttle for fuel economy reasons. If you were to change to a non oem blow off valve AND dump it to atmosphere it would interfere with the tuning of the ECU, as that air it is looking for under part throttle is not there.
10-12-2011, 11:35 AM
#4
Copy cat shinobi
It seems to be a tag team here.
Look there is an inherent problem with cars engineered with recic valves/abv, I learned the hard way in 2008. This car may never see a true bov because of metered air and where it's at.
This is what's gonna happen with a BOV.
Car will start up look fine, sounds fine. You put the car in reverse back out of your driveway, at this point you are pretty confident that the install was flawless. You start driving and your under no boost and you stop. The engine may not have flooded and stalled out at this point. So now you really want to hear the flutter, and you moderately give it throttle and low and behold as you slow down you flood the engine and it is a dead stick. You may have shot a fireball out the exhaust too, not good for your cats or people or dogs or little people.
Guess what for the sake of flutter that can be heard by replacing the intake piping, you'll be look silly having stalled car intraffic or worse cause an accident.
Look the only way it will work is if it's a recic valve.
Look there is an inherent problem with cars engineered with recic valves/abv, I learned the hard way in 2008. This car may never see a true bov because of metered air and where it's at.
This is what's gonna happen with a BOV.
Car will start up look fine, sounds fine. You put the car in reverse back out of your driveway, at this point you are pretty confident that the install was flawless. You start driving and your under no boost and you stop. The engine may not have flooded and stalled out at this point. So now you really want to hear the flutter, and you moderately give it throttle and low and behold as you slow down you flood the engine and it is a dead stick. You may have shot a fireball out the exhaust too, not good for your cats or people or dogs or little people.
Guess what for the sake of flutter that can be heard by replacing the intake piping, you'll be look silly having stalled car intraffic or worse cause an accident.
Look the only way it will work is if it's a recic valve.
10-14-2011, 03:55 PM
#6
Instructor
until a direct bolt on is made, don't even bother.
that is really way off of what really happens. you will never flood a engine with a vta show off valve. if you are stalling at all is due to the valve not being adjusted to the right spring rate or mounting improperly. its like having a huge leak in the intake at idle..
the only thing that happens when it is installed correctly, is that you will have a very faint rich condition when it does blow off. the only detrimental thing with that would be with the cats. if you are catless you will shoot a couple fire balls here and there but if you're catted, then that extra heat isn't that great for the cats.
i had read on here that someone had "tested" that ordeal with a afr gauge, i don't know if they use a wide band or narrow band and or what brand of gauge and sensor, but regardless, they are too slow to react to that actual rich condition to be accurate . the only way you can really see what is going on would be with a tuner program that allows you to monitor that, and even then you would want a wide band.
I mean if it was really that rich, you would have a actual torch constantly blowing out the tail pipe and not just a lil poof of flame.
I'm gonna bring up how subaru's are, and to really say that this issue is totally different, is bullshit. as its still the same physical properties of how a turbo motor is typically setup strait from OEM. The engines are damn near similar in setup, only difference is the type of turbo and the orientation of the heads and pistons. (and a ecu i cant hack yet) turboed subarus are also maf metered, and they also have the faint rich condition when shifting and it does occasionally shoot fireballs when running a vta, but it never floods. and drives fine when its installed right. has there been issues with idle?? yep.. why? cuz the blow off valve was not installed right or the spring was not tough enough to keep it closed at idle. they also leaked when boost came on. they also seem to look like its running hella rich when you shift with a afr gauge, but when looked at it from the ecu perspective, if was rich of all of 10ms.
jcrdx has gone through most of the shit already with all of the show off valves he has installed. and im sure that with out having a direct application, it will continue to give him shit. the hks super squeaker that he use to have is the worst offender of them all. not to mention i dont get why people like the sound of a chipmunk getting ass raped every time you shift.
the other issue with installing vta, is having a proper block off plate for the recirc hose, if that's leaking at all then you are gonna have issues with that too.
the way you can get away from the rich condition with a vta bov is being able to run a front mount intercooler with a blow through maf that relocates the maf out of the intake. whats cool is that it meters the air after being through the intercooler instead of right from the air box which would be way warmer.
with out having actual monitoring of these events and the jerry rigging that has to be done just to install a blow off valve on this car, i can only assume that yea you're gonna have issues. unless that a fact is known for sure with this matter, its all assumptions on what is going on. its bad enough that there isn't enough in this particular community that has the hands on experience with working on the performance aspect of the vehicle that we read and depend on some people that may not know what they are doing. since a lot of people came from modding a NA type vehicle so when they see a turbo the first thing they always think is ZZOMMMG i HAZ TURBOW I HAZ TO HAVE MAD TIGHT BWOW OF VALVE WOOSH WOOSH ASS RAPING CHIPMUNK!!!111!!!one!1!one
It seems to be a tag team here.
Look there is an inherent problem with cars engineered with recic valves/abv, I learned the hard way in 2008. This car may never see a true bov because of metered air and where it's at.
This is what's gonna happen with a BOV.
Car will start up look fine, sounds fine. You put the car in reverse back out of your driveway, at this point you are pretty confident that the install was flawless. You start driving and your under no boost and you stop. The engine may not have flooded and stalled out at this point. So now you really want to hear the flutter, and you moderately give it throttle and low and behold as you slow down you flood the engine and it is a dead stick. You may have shot a fireball out the exhaust too, not good for your cats or people or dogs or little people.
Guess what for the sake of flutter that can be heard by replacing the intake piping, you'll be look silly having stalled car intraffic or worse cause an accident.
Look the only way it will work is if it's a recic valve.
Look there is an inherent problem with cars engineered with recic valves/abv, I learned the hard way in 2008. This car may never see a true bov because of metered air and where it's at.
This is what's gonna happen with a BOV.
Car will start up look fine, sounds fine. You put the car in reverse back out of your driveway, at this point you are pretty confident that the install was flawless. You start driving and your under no boost and you stop. The engine may not have flooded and stalled out at this point. So now you really want to hear the flutter, and you moderately give it throttle and low and behold as you slow down you flood the engine and it is a dead stick. You may have shot a fireball out the exhaust too, not good for your cats or people or dogs or little people.
Guess what for the sake of flutter that can be heard by replacing the intake piping, you'll be look silly having stalled car intraffic or worse cause an accident.
Look the only way it will work is if it's a recic valve.
that is really way off of what really happens. you will never flood a engine with a vta show off valve. if you are stalling at all is due to the valve not being adjusted to the right spring rate or mounting improperly. its like having a huge leak in the intake at idle..
the only thing that happens when it is installed correctly, is that you will have a very faint rich condition when it does blow off. the only detrimental thing with that would be with the cats. if you are catless you will shoot a couple fire balls here and there but if you're catted, then that extra heat isn't that great for the cats.
i had read on here that someone had "tested" that ordeal with a afr gauge, i don't know if they use a wide band or narrow band and or what brand of gauge and sensor, but regardless, they are too slow to react to that actual rich condition to be accurate . the only way you can really see what is going on would be with a tuner program that allows you to monitor that, and even then you would want a wide band.
I mean if it was really that rich, you would have a actual torch constantly blowing out the tail pipe and not just a lil poof of flame.
I'm gonna bring up how subaru's are, and to really say that this issue is totally different, is bullshit. as its still the same physical properties of how a turbo motor is typically setup strait from OEM. The engines are damn near similar in setup, only difference is the type of turbo and the orientation of the heads and pistons. (and a ecu i cant hack yet) turboed subarus are also maf metered, and they also have the faint rich condition when shifting and it does occasionally shoot fireballs when running a vta, but it never floods. and drives fine when its installed right. has there been issues with idle?? yep.. why? cuz the blow off valve was not installed right or the spring was not tough enough to keep it closed at idle. they also leaked when boost came on. they also seem to look like its running hella rich when you shift with a afr gauge, but when looked at it from the ecu perspective, if was rich of all of 10ms.
jcrdx has gone through most of the shit already with all of the show off valves he has installed. and im sure that with out having a direct application, it will continue to give him shit. the hks super squeaker that he use to have is the worst offender of them all. not to mention i dont get why people like the sound of a chipmunk getting ass raped every time you shift.
the other issue with installing vta, is having a proper block off plate for the recirc hose, if that's leaking at all then you are gonna have issues with that too.
the way you can get away from the rich condition with a vta bov is being able to run a front mount intercooler with a blow through maf that relocates the maf out of the intake. whats cool is that it meters the air after being through the intercooler instead of right from the air box which would be way warmer.
with out having actual monitoring of these events and the jerry rigging that has to be done just to install a blow off valve on this car, i can only assume that yea you're gonna have issues. unless that a fact is known for sure with this matter, its all assumptions on what is going on. its bad enough that there isn't enough in this particular community that has the hands on experience with working on the performance aspect of the vehicle that we read and depend on some people that may not know what they are doing. since a lot of people came from modding a NA type vehicle so when they see a turbo the first thing they always think is ZZOMMMG i HAZ TURBOW I HAZ TO HAVE MAD TIGHT BWOW OF VALVE WOOSH WOOSH ASS RAPING CHIPMUNK!!!111!!!one!1!one
10-14-2011, 06:05 PM
#7
Copy cat shinobi
WLG- from my experience this is what happens:
My findings were:
The Intake charge is registered at a given amount at that moment(blowing up a balloon), that is then vented out of the closed loop of metered air(then let out the air), lead to momentary overly rich condition that occured only when the abv (w/o recirc hose attached) was actuated.
So you will be rich, you will stall, and it is fail.
However, by what I have learned yet have not tried, is to move the MAF sensor over to the throttle body tube you would have accurate air metering after the vent/flutter. Which i believe is the only way to get the vta bov to work correctly. My only concern is the intake temps affecting the sensor itself. Velocity will be constant within the intake sys, at the filter all the way to the intake manifold.
Edit note: iDidn't read what you wrote until afterward, lol. Almost a repost!
I think there are people that want to ride "differently."
My findings were:
The Intake charge is registered at a given amount at that moment(blowing up a balloon), that is then vented out of the closed loop of metered air(then let out the air), lead to momentary overly rich condition that occured only when the abv (w/o recirc hose attached) was actuated.
So you will be rich, you will stall, and it is fail.
However, by what I have learned yet have not tried, is to move the MAF sensor over to the throttle body tube you would have accurate air metering after the vent/flutter. Which i believe is the only way to get the vta bov to work correctly. My only concern is the intake temps affecting the sensor itself. Velocity will be constant within the intake sys, at the filter all the way to the intake manifold.
Edit note: iDidn't read what you wrote until afterward, lol. Almost a repost!
I think there are people that want to ride "differently."
Last edited by Kaze66218; 10-14-2011 at 06:11 PM. Reason: Noted
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11-26-2011, 07:39 PM
#8
This is all that needs to be said. All I ever do is read arguments about the BOV on the RDX. In todays world, with all the technology and advancements if there were a way to produce a part (any part) that would make power one, two, three, four...... of the major aftermarket companies would be making it. Its cool that people are making their own but it aint doing shiiiit! If it is someone please back it up with a dyno print or stfu?
Admit it... most of yall are doing this for the sound, and that.is.gay.
Admit it... most of yall are doing this for the sound, and that.is.gay.
11-26-2011, 08:16 PM
#9
Instructor
^ that's the thing tho. Dyno proving a blow off valve is like trying to find tits on a bull.
[QUOTE=Kaze66218;13299635]WLG- from my experience this is what happens:
My findings were:
The Intake charge is registered at a given amount at that moment(blowing up a balloon), that is then vented out of the closed loop of metered air(then let out the air), lead to momentary overly rich condition that occured only when the abv (w/o recirc hose attached) was actuated.
So you will be rich, you will stall, and it is fail.
However, by what I have learned yet have not tried, is to move the MAF sensor over to the throttle body tube you would have accurate air metering after the vent/flutter. Which i believe is the only way to get the vta bov to work correctly. My only concern is the intake temps affecting the sensor itself. Velocity will be constant within the intake sys, at the filter all the way to the intake manifold.
Edit note: iDidn't read what you wrote until afterward, lol. Almost a repost!
I think there are people that want to ride "differently."[/quote ]
Then your issue was a bad install seriously. You had a air leak big enough to drive a truck through.
[QUOTE=Kaze66218;13299635]WLG- from my experience this is what happens:
My findings were:
The Intake charge is registered at a given amount at that moment(blowing up a balloon), that is then vented out of the closed loop of metered air(then let out the air), lead to momentary overly rich condition that occured only when the abv (w/o recirc hose attached) was actuated.
So you will be rich, you will stall, and it is fail.
However, by what I have learned yet have not tried, is to move the MAF sensor over to the throttle body tube you would have accurate air metering after the vent/flutter. Which i believe is the only way to get the vta bov to work correctly. My only concern is the intake temps affecting the sensor itself. Velocity will be constant within the intake sys, at the filter all the way to the intake manifold.
Edit note: iDidn't read what you wrote until afterward, lol. Almost a repost!
I think there are people that want to ride "differently."[/quote ]
Then your issue was a bad install seriously. You had a air leak big enough to drive a truck through.
11-27-2011, 11:59 PM
#10
11-30-2011, 12:24 PM
#11
1st Gear
Join Date: Jul 2011
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Age: 41
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I have an 08 RDX and was looking for a BOV. I seen a duel port BOV made for a mazda that looked close to the flange spects for the RDX. Has anyone seen this BOV or tried it on there acura??? Thanks pat
12-01-2011, 03:08 PM
#12
2008 NBP
was one of the first people on here to have a BOV on my RDX, bought it as a 2011 put it on with 15 miles on it, 15k miles later NO issues. but again my BOV is a ONE OFF, turned it in a lathe myself. And it isnt JUST a bov it is a VTA/Bypass Hybrid.
12-29-2011, 05:50 PM
#13
Instructor
12-29-2011, 05:51 PM
#14
Instructor
and proof that when a properly installed/working bov is installed, you have no issues!
01-02-2012, 03:16 PM
#15
Hey Guys,
It's Michael from Extreme Turbo Systems. Some of you guys may have seen a thread where we are building a custom top mount for a customer. We still have the car in the shop. I just checked out the blow off valve flange. It looks to be the same configuration as the 1G DSM (90-94) and the Nissan R35 GTR. This means any blow off valve or bypass valve with this flange type will bolt up.
Since this is a MAF car though the problem you will run into is a rich condition between shifts and at idle which will want to make the die or give you a hesitation/jerky feeling. We have had customers who have this same problem on the earlier eclipses run a 50/50 split blow off valve / diverter valve setup.
You should be able to get away with running this valve.
It's a turbosmart valve with dual port. We haven't tested it, but in theory it should work and allow the car to come to a stop/idle without killing the vehicle from an over rich condition.
Exact link to the valve.
http://www.turbosmartusa.com/product/nissan-dual-port
Thanks!
Michael
It's Michael from Extreme Turbo Systems. Some of you guys may have seen a thread where we are building a custom top mount for a customer. We still have the car in the shop. I just checked out the blow off valve flange. It looks to be the same configuration as the 1G DSM (90-94) and the Nissan R35 GTR. This means any blow off valve or bypass valve with this flange type will bolt up.
Since this is a MAF car though the problem you will run into is a rich condition between shifts and at idle which will want to make the die or give you a hesitation/jerky feeling. We have had customers who have this same problem on the earlier eclipses run a 50/50 split blow off valve / diverter valve setup.
You should be able to get away with running this valve.
It's a turbosmart valve with dual port. We haven't tested it, but in theory it should work and allow the car to come to a stop/idle without killing the vehicle from an over rich condition.
Exact link to the valve.
http://www.turbosmartusa.com/product/nissan-dual-port
Thanks!
Michael
01-02-2012, 04:35 PM
#16
Feel free to do some "testing" on me.
01-02-2012, 06:15 PM
#17
Hey Guys,
It's Michael from Extreme Turbo Systems. Some of you guys may have seen a thread where we are building a custom top mount for a customer. We still have the car in the shop. I just checked out the blow off valve flange. It looks to be the same configuration as the 1G DSM (90-94) and the Nissan R35 GTR. This means any blow off valve or bypass valve with this flange type will bolt up.
Since this is a MAF car though the problem you will run into is a rich condition between shifts and at idle which will want to make the die or give you a hesitation/jerky feeling. We have had customers who have this same problem on the earlier eclipses run a 50/50 split blow off valve / diverter valve setup.
You should be able to get away with running this valve.
It's a turbosmart valve with dual port. We haven't tested it, but in theory it should work and allow the car to come to a stop/idle without killing the vehicle from an over rich condition.
Exact link to the valve.
http://www.turbosmartusa.com/product/nissan-dual-port
Thanks!
Michael
It's Michael from Extreme Turbo Systems. Some of you guys may have seen a thread where we are building a custom top mount for a customer. We still have the car in the shop. I just checked out the blow off valve flange. It looks to be the same configuration as the 1G DSM (90-94) and the Nissan R35 GTR. This means any blow off valve or bypass valve with this flange type will bolt up.
Since this is a MAF car though the problem you will run into is a rich condition between shifts and at idle which will want to make the die or give you a hesitation/jerky feeling. We have had customers who have this same problem on the earlier eclipses run a 50/50 split blow off valve / diverter valve setup.
You should be able to get away with running this valve.
It's a turbosmart valve with dual port. We haven't tested it, but in theory it should work and allow the car to come to a stop/idle without killing the vehicle from an over rich condition.
Exact link to the valve.
http://www.turbosmartusa.com/product/nissan-dual-port
Thanks!
Michael
The Turbosmart Dual port BOV fits on a RDX.
You can use the MS3 - it is the same adapter base plate.
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-2007-2012-147/turbosmart-dual-port-bov-rdx-834235/
Now I just recently install a Forge BPV - for the MS3.
But of course like what Mr. Marco said - feel free to do some "Testing" for him and all of us.
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