Kaze66218

Okay I did a little running around with my little "homebrew mod" if you will. Got back from "The Track" and the results are if'y. Well at first I did not know what this valve was.



This is a ABV purge valve, and somewhat controls boost from what I understand. I misunderstood the lines route and thought it might be a kink in the system and directly affected FPR, nix that okay. (side note: it indirectly controls the Fuel Pressure)

The vacuum line that runs to the IM is the 90 degree attachment. I connected ___ to ____ with ____. Now the tuners I went to in the area work on Evo's and WRX's and they suggested that this change would the Evo's and WRX's engines to run lean and over boost the turbine leading to epic failure. I think this can be reapplied to the RDX.

Warning: this will adversy affect the longevity of the Turbo, engine, and maybe the tranny. Simply put possibly ruin your car.

The Boost is way high. I'd like to dyno it to see what is happening.

areas of concern:
1. rpms @ 850-800 down from 1200-1000
2. Boost@ ???? from 16psi
3. EGT ?
4. AFR ?
5. Max boost of the Turbine?
6. Is it better left alone (+regarding lag)?

My dyno guy and I don't talk much anymore since my car's KIA. But the RDX has an appointment on Monday morn. He's interested in seeing the numbers for an upgraded RDX. He has the Baseline already, I'll get the Boost, A/F Ratio as well. I'm thinking the mixture is rich enough before this lil' Homebrew mod, we'll see.

This would be great if this little tweak was deemed safe, but right now I've been doing what I can to confirm it's worth the time to put in.

I'll post more on Mon after the dyno.

wspy

Kaze, that valve has nothing to do with fuel pressure etc, its for emissions and fuel tank vapour recirculation!

I still don't understand what it is you are trying to accomplish here!

Kaze66218

Kinda going mad scientist here,lol, ever wanted to have a FMIC, there is a lot of things I'm finding out that has to be mimicked (right now) simply because that is how the k23 was engineered/ programmed.

I'd love to simply slap some pipe in there and mount a intercooler and call it a day but it just won't happen. I have personally experimented with a lot of things and the engine runs crappy.

1. I agree with you. it is not a FPR (pic from above) as I said:

"...and somewhat controls boost from what I understand. I misunderstood the lines route and thought it might be a kink in the system and directly affected FPR, nix that (means oops) okay. (side note: it indirectly controls the Fuel Pressure)" The fuel pressure is acutally #16(looks like an 18 in this pic, on the top left.)



I also said the FPR is indirectly affected by the vacuum from the IM which is placed closer to the TB throttle body so that as the vacuum is increased the valve actuation in the FPR would respond to the increase in vacuum. I was working from memory the first time I wrote about in another thread .

1a. Ok, I agree it is for emissions, however it is not a vapor re-cirulation valve, air vapor maybe. That line (working from memory)is on the Fuel rail and runs a different route. It is item # 6 and 4 and is routed to the front of the engine, I may be wrong.



The ABV purge jet affects the boost this may be good info to know if I wanted to tune the RDX or say FMIC or DP. Maybe trial and error and a bit of leg work on my part will shed light on this.

Cars use intake vacuum for a lot of things. And after the Hondata Reflash the vacuum was increased in certain RPM's due to increase boost at those times. If honda engineered their parts to work at certain pressures or within a given limit then that would mean those parts need to be replaced for aftermarket if you wanted anymore performance changes.

It could be as simple as replacing the FPR to get the RDX in the a beter A/F ratio. A FIC will only be as good as the sum of the parts on the RDX, meaning the FIC may try to fix the problem of leanness but may be limited by the other parts of the system. I am iffy on the FIC or any piggy back right now.

When I did hook the ABV lines to a Vac line it did yeild a mild performance increase over leaving it like it was, but I still need to test the "safe factor" of doing this or finding a better replacement for the "purge jet". Mon is a long time away, I took it back to stock for the time being (worried I will smoke a $4000 turbo).

Kaze66218

Edit: FPR is Top right sorry.

wspy

Emm... I think you need to get a maintenance manual Kaze

bluecarbonfiber

so our FPR is external? does that mean we can hook up a B&M type of adjuster?

Kaze66218

Yeah, you will be able to.

I'm sitting on an aeromotive fpr (It's the size of an average woman's fist) and it's meant for the 'lude and I doubt that it'll fit in the stock position on the RDX. It'll need some compression fittings or barbs and the fuel lines are Ethanol friendly so no need to swap fuel lines until they rot. The OEM FPR is buried and aganist the Firewall.

I know that there is an AEM FPR option (no rail mount) universal app and that should be sufficiant. Aeromotive >= AEM > stock, if you upgrade the Fuel pump then I'd go Aeromotive, otherwise AEM is good IMO.

I am not too familiar with B&M it'd have to be a universal fit aswell.

Also FWIW I think it depends on how you mount it, but adjustments will be a pain in the butt.

bluecarbonfiber

if you are able to adjust the fpr then you should beable to rich the A/F ratio to comp for the lean mixture when adding the intake + downpipe + cat delete + exhaust + hondata..

i guess the next thing would be to make sure you have a good spark so upgrade the plugs to something hotter to make sure you are burning the fuel correctly

Kaze66218

lol.. yeah I have a Capacitive Discharge Ignition Coil-on-Plug option for you.

AEM, but you'll need to know what the lenght is to order them. I wish MSD made COP for honda, as for that the catalog says the carry Ford and I don't think the interface will pair up, so no luck there. Nology makes a nice COP but requires you use a bracket. There may not be enough room on that side of the engine because I am pretty familiar with it now it's for the K20a. AEM is bracketless and is PnP.

One thing for the others that are new to tuning or interested, is that the RDX Ignition is directly controlled by the ECU, and the only option is Coil on plug capcitive discharge form various aftermarket companies. Honda/ Acura found out that the direct connection (COP) vice the distributer is that spark was delivered precisely when it was needed and advanced or retarded based on the ECU's tables and not based on cam angle/ crank position that would be consistant but was not as precisely manipulated by the ECU.-- I'm sure there is a better or easier way to explain so I'll leave it at that.

That is what this thread is about.

For now Blue I am focused/concerned about the "1980's TV Dinner wrapped in plastic" that is sitting in the middle, on top of the engine.

bluecarbonfiber

okada makes a plasma direct over coil for the RDX.. its the same as the TSX and the rsx system they sell they are 700 bucks though

Kaze66218

Wooah! That'll lighten our wallets for us, the reduction will pay off though..lol, anyway keep it coming, you seem to be a treasure trove of useful info.

I also read somewhere on the internet that the k23 is the twin sister to the k24 twin brother and I'd love to state a ref, but that was months ago.

Anyway, the dyno facility I went to today had a boost monitor/sensor that was in need of replacing so the "homebrew mod" testing is off for now. We found out on the 3rd final run. Basically the purge jet is a funnel that is attached to the intake and the vacuum is attached to the same funnel anyhow. So it's not much different than what would be stock. (Minus the direct application of vacuum to the closing of the valve in the BOV.)
Intake will = vacuum (at any point in this loop, except at the filter media).

From the IM the stock RDX electronic boost controller vacuum lines runs 2 lines out to the ports on passenger side of the BOV, then the boost line (drivers side) runs to the funnel on the intake.

The boost line to vacuum, bypassing the funnel assembly, actually refered to as the Purge jet is my little idea to fix the boost creep that may account for the dips on the boost data feedback we are getting/seeing while dyno'ing. In my theory it works by applying a vaccum to the BOV valve assembly (sucking it shut, mu ha ha...ha) under boost and at Blow off expidites boost through the boost lines since the line is already under partial vacuum to begin with. Drawbacks are a little surge to the TB while closing/closed.

Again I did run the RDX at the the dyno without "Homebrew mod" and this is what I'm getting: 210 wHP and 209 lbs/ft (altimeter 2879 @73.4deg F) The boost was all screwy and inconsistant max read was 20.5 crazy psi at or around 5400 RPM.

I love to see the inside of the BOV

I'll post the Dyno when they email it to me. I'm looking at paper right now.

Thanks!

Kaze66218

PS: non-tested means UNSAFE right now.