K&N typhoon worth the money?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
K&N typhoon worth the money?
i was looking to get an intake after my i got my reflash and was wondering if i should get the k&n typhoon since they stop making the CP-E
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LunaKush_ (03-01-2020)
The following users liked this post:
LunaKush_ (03-01-2020)
#4
Copy cat shinobi
#5
2010
Does anyone know if the K&N Cold Air Intake will work on the 2010 model. The reason I ask is because I only find models on eBay for 2007 and 2008. I'd hate to spend $300 on an intake and have it not fit.
#6
Copy cat shinobi
The engine is the same for all models the engine does not appear any different you should be good. Weapon r is cheaper and put an AEM dry filter on it if you don't like the foam! Bet the weapon r sounds better.
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#9
Instructor
You're better off doin a silencer delete. If you want the noise. You would want to run a cai since its bennificial to have your maf reading a cooler intake temp. When you are suckin in hot air from the engine bay the maf would detune you a lil. And im not a fan or k&n at all. Hold one of their filters up to a light and see why. When they get a lil old like a few months old they have big enough holes that ants could fit through it
#10
Copy cat shinobi
You're better off doin a silencer delete. If you want the noise. You would want to run a cai since its bennificial to have your maf reading a cooler intake temp. When you are suckin in hot air from the engine bay the maf would detune you a lil. And im not a fan or k&n at all. Hold one of their filters up to a light and see why. When they get a lil old like a few months old they have big enough holes that ants could fit through it
Op--- Since you already bought one.. There are tons of air filters choices. If I could do it over again: weapon r with aem filter, g2g, sus was for off road and you'd probably not want to drop any more money than youd like to on engine rebuilds.
The IM has a intake temp sensor, unless there's redundancy with the mass airflow sensor.
Last edited by Kaze66218; 05-20-2011 at 03:24 PM.
#12
not an SUV ...a Big Hatch
FWIW I've never had anyissues with K&N style filters over the years.. Good thing is you get a heat shield.. if you like you can always buy any kind of fliter to go on it, which is probably easier than trying to source, build a heat shield.
#13
I'm not sure but I'm thinking of getting the K&N Typhoon Intake, I like the fact that it has the heat shield. Plus I've had K&N on two of my previous vehicle and never had a problem with any of them.
I'm still wondering about the Weapon R one though, it is a lot cheaper.
I'm still wondering about the Weapon R one though, it is a lot cheaper.
#14
Instructor
I'm not sure but I'm thinking of getting the K&N Typhoon Intake, I like the fact that it has the heat shield. Plus I've had K&N on two of my previous vehicle and never had a problem with any of them.
I'm still wondering about the Weapon R one though, it is a lot cheaper.
I'm still wondering about the Weapon R one though, it is a lot cheaper.
what you have to think about with using a k&n on a turbo car is the oil and dirt that will get on the maf. which then coveres the important parts that helps the engine run to its potential. this is not the same setup as a typical na car. If you clean your maf alot then you prolly wont ever have issues. but the point is that it still lets in way more particles into your engine thats going to help wear it down.
here is a gently used k&n filter.
dont know about you... but dont look like its very good at filtering anything besides large insects. the oil is supposed to help filter most of the finer particles but then you run into it just misting all over the maf sensor.
#16
Instructor
ive been running amsoil air filter in my sti and its proven itself with the many trips to the dry lake bed here in vegas.. you can also reuse this filter. all you have to do is vaccum and air spray it out. but they dont make it for the rdx yet so im a lil bummed. but i would rather run a open intake than run a k&n filter.
#19
the heat shield is only going to hold so much heat away.
#20
Instructor
Thread Starter
well jus tested my 0-60 and 1/4 with my g tech got 6.0 to 60 and 14.63 1/4 so with the downpipe im hoping to get around 14.4 we will see wen they start making them!
#21
i just got mine installed, and just curious if i'm hearing the same sounds, and if it is normal and installed correctly.
while i give it gas i hear the suction of air like darth vader and when i release i hear a very audible BOV sscheeeee. not that i'm complaining but i'm just curious if this is what it is suppose to sound like. oh and i def feel the performance gain along with hondata.
while i give it gas i hear the suction of air like darth vader and when i release i hear a very audible BOV sscheeeee. not that i'm complaining but i'm just curious if this is what it is suppose to sound like. oh and i def feel the performance gain along with hondata.
#23
What size filter do you suggest I get? any difference between them beside the size? (For na or turbo?)
I see AEM has a huge hp gain on a ms3; not sure how true is the video though.
#26
Copy cat shinobi
I have the weapon r intake and was thinking about replacing the filter just to see if there is much of a difference.
What size filter do you suggest I get? any difference between them beside the size? (For na or turbo?)
I see AEM has a huge hp gain on a ms3; not sure how true is the video though.
What size filter do you suggest I get? any difference between them beside the size? (For na or turbo?)
I see AEM has a huge hp gain on a ms3; not sure how true is the video though.
OD=outside diameter
ID= inside diameter
Been real busy, busier than usual. the od of the pipe should be the id of the filter. my K&N typhoon tube is 2.95 inch od so i'd need 75mm id filter. I just got back from the website love online pdf manuals and the... Anyway, you have a what appears to be a 3 inch(75mm) filter.
-- If that is true then I'd do a:
1. AEM 21-2038DK gives you a red 8 inch (street) cone.
(or)
2. AEM 21-2038BF gives you an grey 8 inch (off road) cone.
I'm gonna guess here but, the street might be higher flow than off road w/ it's higher filtration.
the best deals on these filters change daily, so I cannot give a recommendation as to where to buy them. Ebay has a lot of knock-offs, just FYI if you didn't know already.
Videos are for fanboys, dyno's are for ego's; but its worth something, to someone.
#27
I measure my weapon R and the filter is 5 1/2" L also it is already touching the computer.
I have to take out the filter to check the inlet size.
I try googling the difference between the street and off road unit.
Is all Street unit filter red?
I have to take out the filter to check the inlet size.
I try googling the difference between the street and off road unit.
Is all Street unit filter red?
#28
Copy cat shinobi
1.that intake pipe is longer than i thought, haha, and i wanted to do this too and is suprising that I havent looked into PN#'s
correction-- 5.125inch cone
- AEM 21-203D-HK => Supposedly red( 7/16th spacing????), Street
- AEM 21-203DK => Supposedly red, Street
- AEM 21-203BF => Supposedly Grey, Off-road
That'll git 'er dun.
2. don't have too, I checked the website for you. 3" inlet
3. I believe the grey/ BF/ Brute force is the balence of filter and power. The red/DK/ Dryflow is by my guess more baised on power.
back to thread. I noticed the K+N under the light in my garage and WindowLG is right, that is unsat! I used to have a bunch of KN filtersand none that never looked like that. Must be faulty qualility control??? dunno. Turbo goobles it up?
Last edited by Kaze66218; 05-26-2011 at 01:07 AM.
#30
Copy cat shinobi
http://www.weapon-r.com/files/manuals/301-160-101.PDF
2.5" in that case:
21-201dk - street 2.5" inlet
21-201bf - offroad 2.5" inlet
#31
Yeah man - I think the pipe is 3" but the inlet is 2.5".
I use the 3" to 3" coupler from the filter to the intake pipe.
One end where the filter suppose to link up with the coupler has some sort of clip holder.
The filter has some clips sticking out on the inlet outer portion.
I use the 3" to 3" coupler from the filter to the intake pipe.
One end where the filter suppose to link up with the coupler has some sort of clip holder.
The filter has some clips sticking out on the inlet outer portion.
#32
Here is the information I got from AEM - I order the Red Street gen -DK
All 21-201 dimensions are identical:
Product specification
Base Outside Diameter: 6 in (152 mm)
Flange Inside Diameter: 2.5 in (64 mm)
Flange Length: 1.5 in (38 mm)
Flange Type: Centered
Height: 5.125 in (130 mm)
Top Outside Diameter: 5.125 in (130 mm)
Top Style: Rubber
Top Material/Finish: None
Filter Material: Non-woven Synthetic
Here’s tha basic difference:
DK is the new red generation Dryflow media, that uses a structural screen wire to enhance airflow capabilities and make the filter incredibly easy to clean
BF is the original media in gray , designed for tough off-road applications, they are so durable that they maintain their shape under even the most severe abuse
D-HK is similar to the DK , except that it has a hole on the end cap for vehicle that use a sensor on the filter.
They all will work well with Turbo applications, the DK is structurally the strongest.
All 21-201 dimensions are identical:
Product specification
Base Outside Diameter: 6 in (152 mm)
Flange Inside Diameter: 2.5 in (64 mm)
Flange Length: 1.5 in (38 mm)
Flange Type: Centered
Height: 5.125 in (130 mm)
Top Outside Diameter: 5.125 in (130 mm)
Top Style: Rubber
Top Material/Finish: None
Filter Material: Non-woven Synthetic
Here’s tha basic difference:
DK is the new red generation Dryflow media, that uses a structural screen wire to enhance airflow capabilities and make the filter incredibly easy to clean
BF is the original media in gray , designed for tough off-road applications, they are so durable that they maintain their shape under even the most severe abuse
D-HK is similar to the DK , except that it has a hole on the end cap for vehicle that use a sensor on the filter.
They all will work well with Turbo applications, the DK is structurally the strongest.
#33
Copy cat shinobi
@all- FYI, I linked the AEM part numbers to google "shopping" search IYDK already. Should be able to find lowest price internet that way.
With a 2.5 inch ID I'm seriously glad I have K&N pipe... I ordered a replacement 3" airfilter from AEM for the RDX and 4"-er for the wreck.
To people that would like a intake heat shield INJEN has a heat shield that straps to the intake pipe. Click here
With a 2.5 inch ID I'm seriously glad I have K&N pipe... I ordered a replacement 3" airfilter from AEM for the RDX and 4"-er for the wreck.
To people that would like a intake heat shield INJEN has a heat shield that straps to the intake pipe. Click here
#36
Advanced
I have a CP-E intake I just took off my 2007 RDX for sale.
The wife is driving it now and does not like the heavy breathing noises. No accounting for taste.
The RDX definitely ran better with than without it (sigh).
$150 shipped to the continental USA.
Joe
The wife is driving it now and does not like the heavy breathing noises. No accounting for taste.
The RDX definitely ran better with than without it (sigh).
$150 shipped to the continental USA.
Joe
#38
Copy cat shinobi
The stock intake has baffles (sound mufflers) built into it that silence intake sounds. Idealy if you want a diferent sound, simmilar to the K&N for no money at all, remove the lower intake plastic that has a snorkel. A AZmember, HABU, touched on it-- free mod click-here , got flamed for it but he's right. In reality his intake is no different than a K&N, but where the problem is there is no heat sheilding seperating it from the engine compartment.
Sidenote: I experieced a 5-8 hp loss after 2 consecutive pulls with a K&N. The engine was heat soaked from the first pull. So weither the Dyno by the hour or by pulls, that will determine the cool-down time for the engine. Honestly there is no proof yet that by removing lower cowl for intake box will add power, It will add sound obviously, by removing the baffles though. If you remove the snorkel chance has it you will alow ambent heat to enter the intake charge. Higher heat leads to knock issues and retarded timing.
The design of the snorkel alows it to capture water and "other bad things" and keep it out of the intake charge and from ruining the filter element. The secondary design was to reduce intake noise, as the next item inside the snorkel is a baffling material.
You can spend 200+ for a custom tube, K&N or what not, and that alone gives you a reuseable filter option. I personally don't like the K&N filters anymore but they work decently for a while.
A Pw:JDM Whale-penis (IF IT WAS AVAILIBLE) intake on a RDX that would sound sick.
Sidenote: I experieced a 5-8 hp loss after 2 consecutive pulls with a K&N. The engine was heat soaked from the first pull. So weither the Dyno by the hour or by pulls, that will determine the cool-down time for the engine. Honestly there is no proof yet that by removing lower cowl for intake box will add power, It will add sound obviously, by removing the baffles though. If you remove the snorkel chance has it you will alow ambent heat to enter the intake charge. Higher heat leads to knock issues and retarded timing.
The design of the snorkel alows it to capture water and "other bad things" and keep it out of the intake charge and from ruining the filter element. The secondary design was to reduce intake noise, as the next item inside the snorkel is a baffling material.
You can spend 200+ for a custom tube, K&N or what not, and that alone gives you a reuseable filter option. I personally don't like the K&N filters anymore but they work decently for a while.
A Pw:JDM Whale-penis (IF IT WAS AVAILIBLE) intake on a RDX that would sound sick.
#40
Three Wheelin'
kn intake didnt add any horses to my rdx...only difference i noticed was more engine noise. i did get a lot of improvement with atlp exhaust, car felt more responsive but still i did not gain any horses. the only mod on my rdx that improved horsepower was the hondata flash.