I installed the ETS TMIC
#1
I installed the ETS TMIC
Took me 30 minutes to finally get off the old one and OMG, the rubber hose tube connectors in front and back were a PIA to put back on the new TMIC? Had to go to Lowes to get a larger bolt for the little electrical connection contraption. Took a quick test drive, and no codes or any other problems. Question for Wrench or Mr. Gold. I have the hondata gasket and was going to try and put it on, but how the heck do you get the bottom middle nut. There is no room. Plus, can I install this now without removing the TMIC. Cause I don't wnat to do that again. Thanks
#2
mrgold35
I won't be much help because I had a local shop install the ETS intercooler, Hondata heatshield gasket, and new spark plugs at the same time.
#3
So Sorry Mr. Gold, I thought you had installed these items as a DIY. I know Wrench does his own work, and he is so mechanically inclined, he probably could make a snow machine work at the equator. Anyone else install the Hondata intake manifold gasket with a install guide they want to share. What I discern is take out the seven bolts and a bracket and wula, the old one comes out, and the new one goes in. Do I need to remove the TMIC as well that I just installed? Thanks
#5
mrgold35
It is suppose to isolate the intake manifold from the engine block to reduce heat x-fer better than a regular gasket. The extra cooled down air from the ETS intercooler isn't being reheated again from the intake runners before hitting the cylinders. I never noticed a difference in power from summer +95 degree temps compared to winter 30s-40s temps with the old OEM intercooler. I can now feel a difference in hp/tq on the butt dyno and slightly better mpgs even with winter blend gas the colder it gets outside (also have Hondata reflash). I've felt the ETS intercooler and intake manifold and it does feel cooler to the touch compared to the OEM set-up after a summer drive.
I don't think the heatshield gasket is must have; but, it is a move in a positive direction in combo with everything else (Hondata, ETS intercooler, heatshield gasket, K/N drop-in air filter).
I don't think the heatshield gasket is must have; but, it is a move in a positive direction in combo with everything else (Hondata, ETS intercooler, heatshield gasket, K/N drop-in air filter).
#7
mrgold35
It is just a SWAG at around 270-275hp and 290-295tq. Two downsides for me are I normally drive at 5000-5500ft and temps are usually +95 degrees in the summer (heat off asphalt +120 degrees). It is still a hp/tq improvement with the butt dyno over stock no matter what time of the year.
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#8
Cruisin'
Well my new ets tmic should be here soon and I'd just like to make sure I'm ready to go. I've got some new permatex ultra copper rtv silicon gasket maker but now I'm wondering if its the wrong stuff. Also I'm curious if I should be using a thread locker on the screws. Some of the older posts talked of fitment issues, is there any tricks you'd like share. Any new pics or videos would be awesome as well, can't seem to access most of the older pics. I have kept my car mainly stock and look forward to this upgrade.
#9
mrgold35
Well my new ets tmic should be here soon and I'd just like to make sure I'm ready to go. I've got some new permatex ultra copper rtv silicon gasket maker but now I'm wondering if its the wrong stuff. Also I'm curious if I should be using a thread locker on the screws. Some of the older posts talked of fitment issues, is there any tricks you'd like share. Any new pics or videos would be awesome as well, can't seem to access most of the older pics. I have kept my car mainly stock and look forward to this upgrade.
Dropbox Link: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...structions.pdf
#10
OMG, Mr. Gold, where were you when I needed you?!!!! I did this thing on my own and these instructions were so good. The only thing I did different was I put the back inlet tube on first then the front. But this took like 20 minutes to get the hoses back on. I also used a larger diameter bolt for the MAP sensor. The gasket I used a Fel-pro gasket making material for exhaust manifolds and just cut out holes and such. Now, do you happen to have one of these Install procedures for the Hondata Heatshield gasket? I would really like to see that Thanks!
#11
mrgold35
OMG, Mr. Gold, where were you when I needed you?!!!! I did this thing on my own and these instructions were so good. The only thing I did different was I put the back inlet tube on first then the front. But this took like 20 minutes to get the hoses back on. I also used a larger diameter bolt for the MAP sensor. The gasket I used a Fel-pro gasket making material for exhaust manifolds and just cut out holes and such. Now, do you happen to have one of these Install procedures for the Hondata Heatshield gasket? I would really like to see that Thanks!
#13
Cruisin'
Thank you so much mrgold that is exactly what I was hoping to find. I have 65k miles on my car so I'm thinking I might do my spark plugs at the same time. I might do the reflash but I'm thinking more along the lines of my exhaust and maybe some coilovers as I like the look of the car lower. I like the feel of the suspension now so I'm hoping to retain that even with an inch or two drop. With my k&n drop in and the ets I hope it will improve initial throttle response a little bit. Thanks again and cheers.
#14
mrgold35
I waited until my +100k service to do my spark plugs on my RDX and TSX because they were due around same time and I wished I done them earlier. I felt I got back some hp on the butt dyno, faster starts, and a touch better mpgs with the new plugs on both cars. I decided to change my plugs out at 75K on my MDX to keep her in the peak operating zone for power and mpgs.
Are you including a downpipe replacement for the 1st cat after the turbo when you are thinking about doing exhaust for the RDX. There is a huge restriction at the first cat that suck at least 15-20hp or more away from the stock RDX. We have to do emissions testing and I wasn't 100% sure how my RDX would do with only the 2nd cat if I did the downpipe. I don't think most folks got a lot of "bang for the buck" gains just doing the exhaust after the 1st cat restriction. The $300+shipping Hondata reflash was cheaper than the +$600+labor+shipping downpipe to end up in the same ballpark if I had to pick. Picking both would have been the correct choice; but, the wifey would have killed me after doing everything else (roof rack, hitch, all weather mats, trunk tray, leather shift knob, racing pedals, LED interior lights, OSRAM HIDs, clear bra, eibach springs, RonJon rims, Conti dws tires, etc....).
OEM 1st Cat left and downpipe with 1st cat delete on right:
Are you including a downpipe replacement for the 1st cat after the turbo when you are thinking about doing exhaust for the RDX. There is a huge restriction at the first cat that suck at least 15-20hp or more away from the stock RDX. We have to do emissions testing and I wasn't 100% sure how my RDX would do with only the 2nd cat if I did the downpipe. I don't think most folks got a lot of "bang for the buck" gains just doing the exhaust after the 1st cat restriction. The $300+shipping Hondata reflash was cheaper than the +$600+labor+shipping downpipe to end up in the same ballpark if I had to pick. Picking both would have been the correct choice; but, the wifey would have killed me after doing everything else (roof rack, hitch, all weather mats, trunk tray, leather shift knob, racing pedals, LED interior lights, OSRAM HIDs, clear bra, eibach springs, RonJon rims, Conti dws tires, etc....).
OEM 1st Cat left and downpipe with 1st cat delete on right:
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rossmo (04-21-2017)
#15
I am (FINALLY!) about to do the ETS TMIC install - I think I have the right tools for the job now, and an awesome walk through, thanks to mrgold! I tried to do it last weekend but couldn't reach the back screws or rear left bolt on the IC. The screws were angled in way that I couldn't get a screw driver in. I'm at 71k miles, but figure I will do the spark plugs at the same time... a little nervous
I also have an RV6 DP/MP (high flow cat kit) that I need to get installed one of these days!!
I also have an RV6 DP/MP (high flow cat kit) that I need to get installed one of these days!!
#16
Maybe try a socket instead of a screw driver. 1/4" ratchet to break them loose, then a nut driver. I wonder how brittle that hose/tubing gets and if it ever needs to be replaced. Maybe a silicone one? Red?
#17
Definitely a socket on those clamps. On mine, the screw totally came off as the clamp was fused to the rubber. Had to take a screwdriver and work my way under the clamp to loosen it up. Trust me, it is not fun, but be patient and eventually you pull the old IC off the tube and fix the clamp. When I put it back on, I made sure the angle was right for next time. Good luck.
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rossmo (04-30-2017)
#18
I FINALLY installed the ETS TMIC!
-Based on the butt dyno, there's noticeably more power. Also, not sure if this is typical, but I can definitely hear the BOV more than before. It's a little louder/more pronounced during turbo spooling. Is that typical for ETS TMIC?
-Is there something we can put on the plastic engine cover to prevent dirt/stuff from getting into and on the IC? (some kind of metal mesh perhaps?)
I tried to do the Spark plugs but didn't have a long enough extension for my wrench...
-Based on the butt dyno, there's noticeably more power. Also, not sure if this is typical, but I can definitely hear the BOV more than before. It's a little louder/more pronounced during turbo spooling. Is that typical for ETS TMIC?
-Is there something we can put on the plastic engine cover to prevent dirt/stuff from getting into and on the IC? (some kind of metal mesh perhaps?)
I tried to do the Spark plugs but didn't have a long enough extension for my wrench...
#19
mrgold35
The ETS intercooler seems to made from stronger aluminum compared to the stock intercooler. I don't have the problem of bent vanes or debris getting stuck in-between the vanes (like bugs parts and pebbles) like it did with the OEM intercooler. I've been fine as-is after +3 years living in the dusty/sandy/ton of bugs southwest with hwy speeds of +75 mph.
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rossmo (05-01-2017)
#20
Good job. I do notice in the hotter weather here in Florida, the car seems a little more responsive. And yes, just a little more noise on the turbo, but nothing like the darth vader CAI.
Don't think it has helped or hurt gas mileage either way. Great little car to drive. I want to drive an Audi Q5 just to see the differences.
Don't think it has helped or hurt gas mileage either way. Great little car to drive. I want to drive an Audi Q5 just to see the differences.
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rossmo (05-01-2017)
#21
Thanks, hues.
Now that I have the Flash Pro and the ETS Intercooler, is there any standard tune available for this set up?
Should I just wait until I get the RV6 and K&N intake on? I have the RV6 already (need to get installed) and was planning on ordering the K&N Typhoon Intake, but would like to maximize my available power immediately (if possible).
Now that I have the Flash Pro and the ETS Intercooler, is there any standard tune available for this set up?
Should I just wait until I get the RV6 and K&N intake on? I have the RV6 already (need to get installed) and was planning on ordering the K&N Typhoon Intake, but would like to maximize my available power immediately (if possible).
#22
K&N Intake installed! It was more of a PITA to install than I expected, but then again I did do the install at night when it was dark out...
Does anyone know if the FlashPro "K&N + Tuned" built in Calibration is any good (or safe, or provides any actual tune?)
Does anyone know if the FlashPro "K&N + Tuned" built in Calibration is any good (or safe, or provides any actual tune?)
#23
Rossmo, with your 2007 I believe you should be safe with that tune. I have a 2011, and when I inquired about that tune on mine, Hondata said no, as something is different in the 2010-2012 versus 2007-2009 generation. Thus, I will be forced to get it tuned specifically instead of a canned tune. Which is probably better anyway. Did you put the downpipe on yet? Are you doing that yourself? I installed the CPE intake, which was fun for a while, then took it off and went back to stock once I did the ETS IC. Significant other did not like the noise as much, so I gave in. I guess I will be selling it soon. Had to convince myself I will not install it again.
#24
FLETCH
iTrader: (1)
what region of the country are you in? the hot air intakes sold by CP-e and K&N are not much good beyond sounding cool. getting an extension made for them so that they suck air from out side the engine bay is a much better way to make your motor happier. you could see as much as a 15 degree drop in IAT. cooler denser charge = more power!! the only down side would be if your area is prone to flooding.
#25
CSmoney28
The other downside to putting the intake in the fender other than sucking up water is lag from the longer piper this would also occur with a front mount intercooler. The ram air intake and top mount intercooler have more of a quick response and less lag but less horsepower due to warmer temperatures. I put the TURBOSMART bpv on my truck and the ETS top mount intercooler with the k&n intake. Also the RV6 down pipe-mid pipe and atlp exhaust too. My bpv actually flutters sometimes and the exhaust even pops haha.
#26
2008 Acura RDX
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Jamaica W.I.
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The other downside to putting the intake in the fender other than sucking up water is lag from the longer piper this would also occur with a front mount intercooler. The ram air intake and top mount intercooler have more of a quick response and less lag but less horsepower due to warmer temperatures. I put the TURBOSMART bpv on my truck and the ETS top mount intercooler with the k&n intake. Also the RV6 down pipe-mid pipe and atlp exhaust too. My bpv actually flutters sometimes and the exhaust even pops haha.
#27
CSmoney28
My injectors wouldn't be running at 100% duty cycle because I'm running the stock tune from the factory. I'm doing 1000cc dw injectors 300c dw fuel pump and the HONDATA flashpro next...
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vpn2001 (08-11-2017)
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vpn2001 (08-14-2017)
#33
Thanks. I bought this:
I recommend to those upgrading to the ETS intercooler also upgrade the hose. If not, it might look like this:
https://www.amazon.com/HPS-HTST-212-BLK-Silicone-Temperature-Reinforced/dp/B004PB42B8/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1502726970&sr=1-1&keywords=HPS+HTST-212-BLK+Silicone+High+Temperature+4-ply+Reinforced+Tube+Coupler+Hose%2C+75+PSI+Maximum+Pressure%2C+12%22+Length%2C+2-1%2F8%22+ID%2C+Black
I recommend to those upgrading to the ETS intercooler also upgrade the hose. If not, it might look like this:
#36
Ok, so I did notice that my rear hose on the ETS does look like the picture above (the center of the hose is a thinner diameter). I remember the first time I installed it, it was the biggest PIA to get back on. Now, that I had to take the TMIC off a few times, I am a pro at getting it back on. Plus, I think the rubber connecting hoses have stretched somewhat to accommodate the larger flange on the TMIC. So, does anyone think this is a problem with the hose looking like there is George Costanza shrinkage going on? The car drives great, and there does not seem to be any air leakage problems. Thanks.
#38
Hi I’m new to the site but I have a question that hopefully someone has an answer to. I added the ets intercooler and right after I did that the car sputtered twice in one week. I also have the k&n intake and hks blow off valve, but the sputtering never happened before the intercooler upgrade.
#40
CSmoney28