DIY – lubricate TURBO diaphragm control lever
 

Failure to lubricate the TURBO control DIAPHRAGM linkage can cause severe wear (to the linkage), and result in the DTC P2263. Neither the diaphragm nor the linkage can be purchased separately. I have no idea what conditions, nor how much mileage, would cause the wear shown in the pictures in the following link.

See the following link for more info:
https://acurazine.com/forums/problems-fixes-160/p2263-turbo-problems-861782/page3/
post #78, #95-104 for pictures of the diaphragm and control lever.

Now that you know what the parts look like, the diaphragm is located on the passenger side of the turbo air-pipe into the intercooler, and behind and below the intercooler. The linkage pivot point is located about 1/2 inch from the turbo air-pipe, directly below the diaphragm, and between the air-pipe and the turbo body itself.

Remove the intercooler shroud, and you can easily see both the diaphragm and the linkage/ connector as shown in the pictures in the link above.

WHICH LUBE?
It is not that difficult to lubricate the linkage-pivot point with a spray lube. But what to use? I first considered motorcycle moly-type chain lube. The only data I could find said the DuPont brand is good to 300F degrees.

I decided to use Super Lube, which is good from -40F to +450F degrees, in an aerosol can. This is a PAO synthetic with Teflon. For more information on this lube, and availability, see this link:
DIY – FIX the DRIVER SIDE HVAC MIX DOOR NOISE - AcuraZine Community
post #1 and scroll down to the sections TOOLS NEEDED TO FIX THE PROBLEM and WHICH GREASE TO USE

HOW TO APPLY THE LUBE:
For those who have lubricated a motorcycle drive chain, you already know what to do. For others, more is not better. The turbo linkage pivot point is (hopefully) still a very tight fit. Apply only enough lube to seep into the joint, and no more – more will only attract dirt.

If dirt seems to gather at the joint, the next time, use some WD40 to wash-and-clean the joint, then allow to air-dry, before applying new Super Lube. WD40 is a penetrating oil, not a lubricant.

Its best to apply the lube with the engine cold, and wait at least overnight for the lubricant carrier to evaporate, and the lube to set-up/ thicken, before driving the vehicle.

I would suggest lubrication every 3-4 months, depending upon miles and vehicle usage.

----eof

I read the thread regarding the error codes, and it sounds way too complicated to remove diaphragm and shake for a loose part, etc. What you just describe here is akin to lubing a door hinge. Does anyone have pictures and a DIY procedure? Anyone do this? thanks

And the thread regarding the error codes is just to describe what *can* happen if the turbo linkage is not lubricated, and wears, as shown in the linked pictures.

Would you need a picture and DIY for lubing a door hinge? Not meaning to be an ass, but just what do you wish? I could perhaps provide a picture of the turbo linkage, if you really need it. Is that your request? I do use the same Super Lube on the RDX door hinges, and in exactly the same manner, as lubing the turbo linkage.

Thanks for taking the time to do this write up! I certainly wouldn't complain if you posted a under-the-hood photo of the linkage. Sorry to be a PIA :rolleyes:

You are welcome.

It will be some time before I can - and I doubt it will be very helpful. Just look at the rear passenger side corner of the turbo intercooler, and below. A picture there will not show the linkage, and a closeup picture of the back side of the intercooler, while showing the linkage, will not give you a reference point. This will be more clear when you look at your own car.

^^^^ a photograph of the vacuum controller linkage will not be any more clear than this diagram. But if you simply look first at the picture of the disassembled linkage in the LINK from the first post in this thread, you will know exactly what you are looking for. Then, the diagram below shows where you need to look. The turbo, as shown in the diagram, is located behind the passenger side of the engine block, between the engine and the firewall. I hope this helps. And I don't have to direct access to the car at present - its not mine.

The lock nut at the bottom of the vacuum controller shaft on *my* RDX, still shows the same yellow paint mark, as shown in the picture of the disassembled linkage, in the LINK pictures from the first post of this thread. You may find it helpful to look for that yellow paint mark on your own RDX.

OK, I forgot that I had this picture - better than anything I could take under the hood.

Hey, I am not complaining if such a simple maintenance item really will prevent some of the issues people have mentioned here. Anywhere from replacing the turbo for $4500, to taking five hours to take the turbo apart, to replacing solenoids and air filters. Since this does not seem to be mentioned as a maintenance item in any manual, or by anyone else in this forum, any downsides to lubing up this linkage. Besides putting too much on and collecting dirt that is. Thanks.

Thanks for another excellent write up, dcmodels. It looks like most of the pictures have disappeared from the referenced thread which seems to be happening a lot around here lately (thank you image shack!)

I'm ready to give it a try. It's a tight squeeze, and I want to be 100% sure I can reach the right spot. If I was 6 inches taller and had pencil arms I'd be all set.

Hmm...

subbed

Will lubing this part really prevent or deter metal on metal wear? Make sure to not over lubricate and attract dirt, as it could accelerate the wear. Creating a sandpaper effect w/ the dirt and lube.

This is the lube that will probably be better than the super lube for this application. In-fact, the first review states that someone has use it with great results on turbo actuators.

B'laster Graphite Spray

https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-8-GS-...raphite%2BLube