Brake pads and rotors replacement
11-06-2015, 01:13 PM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Brake pads and rotors replacement
I have new R1 Concept premium slotted rotors and ceramic pads coming next week and I was wondering if a write up has been done to replace all 4? Thanks, kp
11-06-2015, 01:24 PM
#2
all modern brakes use a floating caliper design.
If you've done one, you've done them all.
- loosen or break wheel lug nuts loose.
- jack car up
- take off wheels
- remove caliper from caliper bracket.
- remove bracket.
- drill through rotor retaining screws.
- remove rotor. (might need a few bangs to dislodge)
- put new rotor on.
- attach caliper bracket and install bolts.
- torque bracket bolts.
- Align new pads and apply grease
- attach caliper to caliper bracket.
- torque caliper down
If you've done one, you've done them all.
- loosen or break wheel lug nuts loose.
- jack car up
- take off wheels
- remove caliper from caliper bracket.
- remove bracket.
- drill through rotor retaining screws.
- remove rotor. (might need a few bangs to dislodge)
- put new rotor on.
- attach caliper bracket and install bolts.
- torque bracket bolts.
- Align new pads and apply grease
- attach caliper to caliper bracket.
- torque caliper down
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rossmo (08-12-2018)
11-06-2015, 01:32 PM
#5
These threads have some good info, the second evencontains torque specs:
https://acurazine.com/forums/fourth-generation-tl-2009-2014-123/changing-rotors-questions-916068/
https://acurazine.com/forums/diy-faq-161/diy-brake-caliper-painting-776569/
More threads:
https://acurazine.com/forums/search.php?searchid=17713669&pp=40
And here are numerous DIY videos for variousAcuras that should cover it all: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=acura+rdx+brake+job+
https://acurazine.com/forums/fourth-generation-tl-2009-2014-123/changing-rotors-questions-916068/
https://acurazine.com/forums/diy-faq-161/diy-brake-caliper-painting-776569/
More threads:
https://acurazine.com/forums/search.php?searchid=17713669&pp=40
And here are numerous DIY videos for variousAcuras that should cover it all: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=acura+rdx+brake+job+
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justnspace (11-06-2015)
11-06-2015, 02:47 PM
#6
I've always used an impact screwdriver for the rotor screws. I don't put them back in, but keep them just in case I ever need to mess with the brakes in the future (nice having the rotor locked in place.
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11-07-2015, 02:52 PM
#8
Ceramic pads eat rotors.
I replaced our pads at 98k mi using o/e pads.
Upgraded pads from Performance Friction, EBC Greenstuff are good aftermarket choices.
Most Important When replacing pads and rotors-
Pad and rotor prep (bedding and seasoning)
http://baer.com/gallery/plog-content...-bedding-1.jpg
http://baer.com/gallery/plog-content...-bedding-2.jpg
http://baer.com/gallery/plog-content...-bedding-3.jpg
I replaced our pads at 98k mi using o/e pads.
Upgraded pads from Performance Friction, EBC Greenstuff are good aftermarket choices.
Most Important When replacing pads and rotors-
Pad and rotor prep (bedding and seasoning)
http://baer.com/gallery/plog-content...-bedding-1.jpg
http://baer.com/gallery/plog-content...-bedding-2.jpg
http://baer.com/gallery/plog-content...-bedding-3.jpg
01-24-2017, 02:31 PM
#11
Intermediate
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Canada, Vancouver
Age: 30
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quick note. I did my rotors yesterday at 210 000 km, they apparently had not been changed once in their life.
PB Blaster works great, but my suggestion is to spray a bunch on, leave it overnight. Come back with a screwdriver, fit that into the bolt. Hit the end of the screwdriver with a hammer a few times, this loosens any leftover rust. Then hit it with an impact driver, I put most of my weight into the impact driver just to be sure I didn't strip the head.
As said by others, these bolts DO NOT need to be replaced. These were only installed OEM because they helped with assembly as the rotors didnt move around during the install. What I did to keep the rotors in place, was just use one of the quick clamps against the drum of the rotor, not the actual mating surface. This allowed me to reinstall the caliper bracket, new brakes and the actual caliper without the rotor moving at all. Obviously at this point the caliper held the rotor in place for me to reinstall the wheel.
PB Blaster works great, but my suggestion is to spray a bunch on, leave it overnight. Come back with a screwdriver, fit that into the bolt. Hit the end of the screwdriver with a hammer a few times, this loosens any leftover rust. Then hit it with an impact driver, I put most of my weight into the impact driver just to be sure I didn't strip the head.
As said by others, these bolts DO NOT need to be replaced. These were only installed OEM because they helped with assembly as the rotors didnt move around during the install. What I did to keep the rotors in place, was just use one of the quick clamps against the drum of the rotor, not the actual mating surface. This allowed me to reinstall the caliper bracket, new brakes and the actual caliper without the rotor moving at all. Obviously at this point the caliper held the rotor in place for me to reinstall the wheel.
01-24-2017, 02:49 PM
#12
Senior Moderator
quick note. I did my rotors yesterday at 210 000 km, they apparently had not been changed once in their life.
PB Blaster works great, but my suggestion is to spray a bunch on, leave it overnight. Come back with a screwdriver, fit that into the bolt. Hit the end of the screwdriver with a hammer a few times, this loosens any leftover rust. Then hit it with an impact driver, I put most of my weight into the impact driver just to be sure I didn't strip the head.
As said by others, these bolts DO NOT need to be replaced. These were only installed OEM because they helped with assembly as the rotors didnt move around during the install. What I did to keep the rotors in place, was just use one of the quick clamps against the drum of the rotor, not the actual mating surface. This allowed me to reinstall the caliper bracket, new brakes and the actual caliper without the rotor moving at all. Obviously at this point the caliper held the rotor in place for me to reinstall the wheel.
PB Blaster works great, but my suggestion is to spray a bunch on, leave it overnight. Come back with a screwdriver, fit that into the bolt. Hit the end of the screwdriver with a hammer a few times, this loosens any leftover rust. Then hit it with an impact driver, I put most of my weight into the impact driver just to be sure I didn't strip the head.
As said by others, these bolts DO NOT need to be replaced. These were only installed OEM because they helped with assembly as the rotors didnt move around during the install. What I did to keep the rotors in place, was just use one of the quick clamps against the drum of the rotor, not the actual mating surface. This allowed me to reinstall the caliper bracket, new brakes and the actual caliper without the rotor moving at all. Obviously at this point the caliper held the rotor in place for me to reinstall the wheel.
If you had an impact driver, then why did you use a screwdriver and hammer...
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