Acura RDX Rear Wiper Refill Replacement How-to
The following users liked this post:
olszeric (10-29-2013)
10-10-2012, 12:17 AM
#3
HOW TO REPLACE THE REAR WIPER INSERT
PLEASE READ ENTIRE POST BEFORE BEGINNING:
The following describes how to replace the REAR WINDOW WIPER BLADE rubber insert. The cost of the Acura OEM rubber insert is less than $6. The OEM blade with insert is almost $20. The basic procedure is simple. Of course, you can also just purchase a new blade which includes the rubber insert.
The main problem that I had, was when I installed the new rubber insert, the tabs on one end of the blade found their way into the slot (on the insert) with the METAL RIBs, instead of remaining in the rubber sliding slot where they belong.
If available, purchasing an entire OEM or aftermarket rear-blade would be a lot easier than the following, which is actually not that difficult. But remember, IF you replace the OEM blade with a non-OEM blade, THEN the OEM Acura rubber inserts will not fit your new non-OEM blade.
When I replaced my own rear wiper insert, I referenced the REPLACE FRONT WINDSHIELD WIPER guide already posted by member 737 JOCK, so here is the link, AND also reference my post #7 in that thread. I hope that 737 JOCK will not mind if I borrow a couple of his pictures for this post, as references:
LINK: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=794516
THE FSM (FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL) PROCEDURE:
These two pictures show the entire FSM procedure:
PICTURE: part 1
PICTURE: part 2
NOTES ON THE FSM PROCEDURE:
The first FSM picture step #2 references a “lock”.
RELEASING THE LOCK:
There are two pins on the blade. These two pins slide inside slots on each side of the arm. What keeps the blade from falling off of the arm, is that there is a ridge at the mouth (opening) of each of the two slots. This is not shown in the first picture, but the arrow points to the location of these ridges.
All of the parts are plastic, except for the insert, which is rubber with metal rib inserts. And as plastic gets old and oxidized, it becomes brittle. To ease removal of the blade, without breaking either the pins or the ridges on the arm, put some silicone dielectric grease into this area with a Q-tip. And remove the blade slooowly. Put more grease here when reinstalling the blade. The grease will also prevent future oxidation of the plastic.
Finally, slowly pivot the blade away from the arm, noting how the pivot bar on the blade fits into the slot on the arm.
Conditioning the arm and blade with plastic/ vinyl conditioner will help the parts to last longer, by preventing oxidation.
REMOVING THE RUBBER INSERT:
Before removing the original OLD rubber insert, look carefully at how it is installed and located in the tabs of the blade.
As shown in the second FSM picture, the end of the rubber insert must be ‘bent’ to clear the tip of the blade, which normally covers the end of the insert. Then the insert can simply be pulled completely out of the blade.
INSTALLING THE METAL RIB STIFFENERS INTO THE NEW RUBBER INSERT:
Note that the metal ribs are symmetric, unlike those for the front wiper blade inserts. Either metal rib can be used in either slot of the rear rubber insert, and the metal ribs are identical at both ends.
However, the metal ribs are curved. You must install the metal ribs into the rubber insert, and the rubber insert into the blade, so that the two ends of the insert will touch the rear window first, before the middle of the insert, when the arm is lowered.
LUBRICATING THE ARM AND BLADE:
Before installing the new rubber insert, lubricate the moving parts of the arm and blade. Remember, parts are plastic, and wear does occur where parts rub together. But do not use an ordinary oil or grease, which will attack and damage the plastic parts.
I used SuperLube brand aerosol. If you are interested in information about SuperLube, check my post here, about half-way down. Its available in tube or aerosol, from ACE hardware, or similar stores, and also from a GM car dealer parts counter:
LINK: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=862172
INSTALLING THE NEW RUBBER INSERT:
There is an easier way to reinstall the new insert, than simply pushing it completely from one end of the blade, as it was removed. First, install the insert only through the two middle tab pairs on the blade. There are four pairs of tabs total. Then, push one end of the insert, through the tabs on one end of the blade.
Now, pull that end of the insert past the end of the blade, as you did when first removing the insert. Pull that end of the insert far enough that the other end now clears the other end of the blade.
Now, before pushing the insert back into the blade, lubricate the end which is extended beyond the end of the blade. Lubricate with silicone dielectric grease, as shown in the next two pictures. Especially lubricate the top of the rubber insert, as well as the channels where the blade tabs slide.
PICTURE: tip detail
PICTURE: metal rib
Failure to lubricate the end of the rubber insert, will cause too much friction between the top of the insert, and the overhang on the end of the blade. The rubber will distort, and the tabs on the end of the blade will move into the channel that holds the metal ribs.
Even so, I had to repeat lubrication and installation of the rubber insert several times, before everything was in the proper location. Yes, I am aware that the second picture from the FSM may look like the blade tabs on the end of the blade, are in the same channel with the metal rib. That is not correct.
Finally, remove any excess grease before reinstalling the blade onto the wiper arm.
READING THE DATE CODE ON THE RUBBER INSERT:
Rubber oxidizes over time, especially if exposed to air. The OEM Acura rubber inserts are factory sealed. But my own Acura dealer punched a hole in the sealed packages, in order to hang them up on a rack. You can tell how much oxidation has occurred, by cleaning the rubber insert with concentrated washer fluid and a paper towel, before installation. This will remove most of the oxidation as a black smear on the paper towel. Then rinse with water.
You can also repeat this cleaning procedure a couple of times per year, to keep the rubber inserts in good condition. And the above is why you want to know just how long the wiper inserts have been hanging around at your local dealer. After enough oxidation, the rubber inserts begin to crack and are no longer of use.
On my own wiper insert, the molded date code on the rubber insert was about 6-months older than the date code on the packaging.
HONDA and ACURA PARTS (some parts such as drain plug washers, are common between Honda and Acura models, and I find that the Honda Dealer parts cost is generally a bit less than my Acura Dealer parts cost. Also my Honda dealer gives me a 10% discount on parts.):
NOTE 1: most parts have three codes on the packaging label along with the part number, as below. The non-date codes apparently indicate the manufacturing plant location, etc.:
VC nnnnn
CP nnnnn
JD nnnnn – Julian Date as YYDDD (day of the year between 001 and 365)
NOTE 2: many parts have a date code molded onto the part itself. There are several different formats. Here is an example of one format, which may help to decipher other formats. The format used on wiper rubber inserts is a 2-digit year, followed by sets of 3 dots, each set of 3-dots in a triangle. Each set of 3 dots is separated by a vertical bar. Four sets of 3-dots represents 12-months (a year). Multiple year codes are generally shown. The year and month of manufacturer is the right-most (last) year code shown, followed by a number of dots.
For example, suppose that the last (right-most) year code is ‘11’. Then the year of manufacturer is 2011. Now suppose that there are exactly 5 dots following the year code. That is, one group of 3-dots followed by a group of only 2-dots. Then the month of manufacturer is MAY.
PICTURE: date code location
The picture above is of the front wiper blade, but the location of the printing (molded), which includes the date code, is in the same location on the rear wiper insert.
---eof
PLEASE READ ENTIRE POST BEFORE BEGINNING:
The following describes how to replace the REAR WINDOW WIPER BLADE rubber insert. The cost of the Acura OEM rubber insert is less than $6. The OEM blade with insert is almost $20. The basic procedure is simple. Of course, you can also just purchase a new blade which includes the rubber insert.
The main problem that I had, was when I installed the new rubber insert, the tabs on one end of the blade found their way into the slot (on the insert) with the METAL RIBs, instead of remaining in the rubber sliding slot where they belong.
If available, purchasing an entire OEM or aftermarket rear-blade would be a lot easier than the following, which is actually not that difficult. But remember, IF you replace the OEM blade with a non-OEM blade, THEN the OEM Acura rubber inserts will not fit your new non-OEM blade.
When I replaced my own rear wiper insert, I referenced the REPLACE FRONT WINDSHIELD WIPER guide already posted by member 737 JOCK, so here is the link, AND also reference my post #7 in that thread. I hope that 737 JOCK will not mind if I borrow a couple of his pictures for this post, as references:
LINK: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=794516
THE FSM (FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL) PROCEDURE:
These two pictures show the entire FSM procedure:
PICTURE: part 1
PICTURE: part 2
NOTES ON THE FSM PROCEDURE:
The first FSM picture step #2 references a “lock”.
RELEASING THE LOCK:
There are two pins on the blade. These two pins slide inside slots on each side of the arm. What keeps the blade from falling off of the arm, is that there is a ridge at the mouth (opening) of each of the two slots. This is not shown in the first picture, but the arrow points to the location of these ridges.
All of the parts are plastic, except for the insert, which is rubber with metal rib inserts. And as plastic gets old and oxidized, it becomes brittle. To ease removal of the blade, without breaking either the pins or the ridges on the arm, put some silicone dielectric grease into this area with a Q-tip. And remove the blade slooowly. Put more grease here when reinstalling the blade. The grease will also prevent future oxidation of the plastic.
Finally, slowly pivot the blade away from the arm, noting how the pivot bar on the blade fits into the slot on the arm.
Conditioning the arm and blade with plastic/ vinyl conditioner will help the parts to last longer, by preventing oxidation.
REMOVING THE RUBBER INSERT:
Before removing the original OLD rubber insert, look carefully at how it is installed and located in the tabs of the blade.
As shown in the second FSM picture, the end of the rubber insert must be ‘bent’ to clear the tip of the blade, which normally covers the end of the insert. Then the insert can simply be pulled completely out of the blade.
INSTALLING THE METAL RIB STIFFENERS INTO THE NEW RUBBER INSERT:
Note that the metal ribs are symmetric, unlike those for the front wiper blade inserts. Either metal rib can be used in either slot of the rear rubber insert, and the metal ribs are identical at both ends.
However, the metal ribs are curved. You must install the metal ribs into the rubber insert, and the rubber insert into the blade, so that the two ends of the insert will touch the rear window first, before the middle of the insert, when the arm is lowered.
LUBRICATING THE ARM AND BLADE:
Before installing the new rubber insert, lubricate the moving parts of the arm and blade. Remember, parts are plastic, and wear does occur where parts rub together. But do not use an ordinary oil or grease, which will attack and damage the plastic parts.
I used SuperLube brand aerosol. If you are interested in information about SuperLube, check my post here, about half-way down. Its available in tube or aerosol, from ACE hardware, or similar stores, and also from a GM car dealer parts counter:
LINK: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=862172
INSTALLING THE NEW RUBBER INSERT:
There is an easier way to reinstall the new insert, than simply pushing it completely from one end of the blade, as it was removed. First, install the insert only through the two middle tab pairs on the blade. There are four pairs of tabs total. Then, push one end of the insert, through the tabs on one end of the blade.
Now, pull that end of the insert past the end of the blade, as you did when first removing the insert. Pull that end of the insert far enough that the other end now clears the other end of the blade.
Now, before pushing the insert back into the blade, lubricate the end which is extended beyond the end of the blade. Lubricate with silicone dielectric grease, as shown in the next two pictures. Especially lubricate the top of the rubber insert, as well as the channels where the blade tabs slide.
PICTURE: tip detail
PICTURE: metal rib
Failure to lubricate the end of the rubber insert, will cause too much friction between the top of the insert, and the overhang on the end of the blade. The rubber will distort, and the tabs on the end of the blade will move into the channel that holds the metal ribs.
Even so, I had to repeat lubrication and installation of the rubber insert several times, before everything was in the proper location. Yes, I am aware that the second picture from the FSM may look like the blade tabs on the end of the blade, are in the same channel with the metal rib. That is not correct.
Finally, remove any excess grease before reinstalling the blade onto the wiper arm.
READING THE DATE CODE ON THE RUBBER INSERT:
Rubber oxidizes over time, especially if exposed to air. The OEM Acura rubber inserts are factory sealed. But my own Acura dealer punched a hole in the sealed packages, in order to hang them up on a rack. You can tell how much oxidation has occurred, by cleaning the rubber insert with concentrated washer fluid and a paper towel, before installation. This will remove most of the oxidation as a black smear on the paper towel. Then rinse with water.
You can also repeat this cleaning procedure a couple of times per year, to keep the rubber inserts in good condition. And the above is why you want to know just how long the wiper inserts have been hanging around at your local dealer. After enough oxidation, the rubber inserts begin to crack and are no longer of use.
On my own wiper insert, the molded date code on the rubber insert was about 6-months older than the date code on the packaging.
HONDA and ACURA PARTS (some parts such as drain plug washers, are common between Honda and Acura models, and I find that the Honda Dealer parts cost is generally a bit less than my Acura Dealer parts cost. Also my Honda dealer gives me a 10% discount on parts.):
NOTE 1: most parts have three codes on the packaging label along with the part number, as below. The non-date codes apparently indicate the manufacturing plant location, etc.:
VC nnnnn
CP nnnnn
JD nnnnn – Julian Date as YYDDD (day of the year between 001 and 365)
NOTE 2: many parts have a date code molded onto the part itself. There are several different formats. Here is an example of one format, which may help to decipher other formats. The format used on wiper rubber inserts is a 2-digit year, followed by sets of 3 dots, each set of 3-dots in a triangle. Each set of 3 dots is separated by a vertical bar. Four sets of 3-dots represents 12-months (a year). Multiple year codes are generally shown. The year and month of manufacturer is the right-most (last) year code shown, followed by a number of dots.
For example, suppose that the last (right-most) year code is ‘11’. Then the year of manufacturer is 2011. Now suppose that there are exactly 5 dots following the year code. That is, one group of 3-dots followed by a group of only 2-dots. Then the month of manufacturer is MAY.
PICTURE: date code location
The picture above is of the front wiper blade, but the location of the printing (molded), which includes the date code, is in the same location on the rear wiper insert.
---eof
The following users liked this post:
olszeric (10-29-2013)
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