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Feeling motivated after my linear solenoid cleaning success, I decided to tackle another project. For the past few months, we were hearing an annoying metallic buzzing sound, while the vehicle shifted into reverse. Upon further research, I found a very useful thread that helped me diagnose the problem. https://acurazine.com/how-tos/a/acur...c-guide-426722
As the thread suggests, many 1st generation RDX owners experience buzzing sounds when the exhaust heat shield comes into contact with the A/C drain hose. The article even mentions that the sound is often heard more often when the car shifts into revers. BINGO! That sounded like my problem and sure enough, the heat shield was penetrating the A/C drain hose, so I re-positioned the heat shield and zip-tied the A/C drain hose about half an inch lower to ensure these would no longer come into contact.
After cleaning up the garage and taking the RDX for a quick spin, the buzzing sound remained...., so I decided to get under the RDX and took another look. To my surprise, I was able to find the source of the problem rather quickly.
Our lovely Midwest winters have completely destroyed three of the four mounting holes, holding the catalytic converter cover in place. My assumption is that this buzzing sound was an issue with the previous owner, given that a stainless steel hose clamp was holding it together. Using tin snips, I was able to remove the hose clamp and catalytic converter cover. After removing this, the sound was gone .
Oh man, it has been quite some time since I’ve updated this thread. A lot has changed since last October. My wife and I continued to grow as parents, became involved with planting a new church in our community, bought a new piece of property on a lake (for our future home), sold our condo, and moved to a temporary town home while we build.
Last October, the RDX surpassed another 10,000 miles (120,000 miles total), so I spent an entire day performing some much needed maintenance. I completed the following:
1) Air Filter Replaced
Part #: Acura 17220-RWC-A00
2) Cabin Filter Replaced
Part #: Honda 80292-SDA-407
3) Oil Replaced
Part #: Mobil 1 5W-30 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil
4) Oil Drain Plug Washer Replaced
Part #: Honda 94109-14000
5) Transfer Case Fluid Replaced
Part #: Acura 08200-9014A
6) Transfer Case Fluid Fill Sealing Washer Replaced
Part #: Honda 94109-20000
7) Transfer Case Fluid Drain Plug Washer Replaced
Part #: Honda 94109-20000
8) Differential Fluid Replaced
Part #: Acura 08200-9007A
9) Differential Fluid Fill Sealing Washer Replaced
Part #: Honda 94109-20000
12) Automatic Transmission Fluid Changed (X1)
Part #: Honda 08200-9008
Similar to before, I find it easier to fill via the dip stick tube.
I like to precisely measure how much transmission fluid was drained and then use a quart measuring container as I fill up the last amount of transmission fluid.
13) Automatic Transmission Fill Sealing Washer Replaced
Part #: Honda 90441-PK4-000
*This step was not required as I filled via dip stick tube method.
Even some mechanics will tell you that you don't have to complete a 1x3 drain and refill every 10,000 miles. However when I see my drain plug looking like this, I'm always happy that I took the extra precautions.
16) Power Steering Pump Belt Replaced
Part #: Acura 56992-RWC-A01
I didn’t know the last time (if ever) the serpentine belt was replaced, so I thought it was also a good time to do so. Let me tell you, it wasn’t easy. Here is a very useful thread that I referenced:
Here is the old belt. It wasn't too cracked/worn, but now I have peace of mind.
The thread highlights several different tools that can be used to remove the serpentine belt. However, trying to find the proper tool (without spending $50) to complete this task was a struggle. I tried a cheaper Craftsman serpentine belt removal tool with no luck, so I resorted to using two Craftsman wrenches (14mm & 16mm) as one member suggested:
This was the last task for the day and ultimately, I had to call my buddy to help me. I couldn’t get enough torque on the tensioner while also simultaneously trying to line up the belt properly. Next time, I’m going to purchase the correct tool and also plan ahead so that I have another set of hands to assist.
In mid-November, I winterized my TL for storage and purchased a vehicle containment mat for my wife's RDX. Garages are no longer allowed to have drains in the area I live, so historically winter debris has flooded my garage floor like a lake. This mat actually did a pretty good job at containing the slushy messes and I was able to squeegee the melted ice about once a week. The mat also prevented my garage floors from being exposed to another year of salt erosion.
About six weeks later, on Christmas Eve, we were in a hurry to get to a family party and I punched the accelerator a bit. The turbo didn’t fully engage and I lost a bit of power. A few miles later, a check engine light came on with the following codes:
All-Wheel Drive:77
Engine System: P2263
After some generic research, all signs seemed to point towards a bad turbo. However, upon further investigation, I found the following video which highlights that the variable flow actuator eye bolt can become oval (out of round) due to the soft nature of the factory metal. As such, instead of spending $6,000-$7,000 on a new turbo (as quoted by my local Honda dealer), one can simply replace this machined eye bolt with an aftermarket replacement.
I also noticed this is a common topic on the Acura RDX Facebook pages, so I spoke with Darren Gauryletz who is referenced in the YouTube video description. Darren is a Canadian fabricator that makes new eye bolts from scratch. I sent him a few photos and he talked me through the general wearing process. Given the mileage on my wife's RDX, he assured that the eye bolt would likely be deformed. And given that the only way to check the shape of the eye bolt is to remove it, I opted to purchase a new eye bolt to be safe.I believe he sells new eye bolts in batches, so keep that in mind in case you ever need one.
Ultimately, the check engine light went away the very next day (a Christmas miracle?). However, I know that this is still probably an issue, so I will be replacing the actuator eye bolt after I complete my 130,000 maintenance in the next few weeks. Some people have also mentioned that the "pin" should be replaced, but I’m not exactly sure where/what that "pin" is. I’ll have to do some more research on this. If anyone has insight, please share. Here are some pictures of the pin:
I can't believe it's been 3+ years since I updated my progress thread. Unfortunately, I don't have the time to provide regular updates anymore. Since this post, I've become a father of 2 (3rd on the way), we've moved twice, built a house, and purchased my wife's optometry practice. Needless to say, life has been busy... but in a good way.
My wife and I still have the 2007 Acura RDX and it's still running pretty well. However, it's definitely starting to show its age. Small things here and there are starting to break, so this summer, we debated on whether or not it was time to sell it. We ultimately decided to keep it, under the notion that I would have to perform a huge suspension overhaul (tie rods, ball joints, shocks, springs, struts, sway bar end links, wheels, tires, etc.) Since performing those upgrades, it rides like a dream. It honestly feels like a brand new car, but I never want to perform those repairs again lol. It was a week-long battle and a learning experience to say the least.
The reason I revisited this thread is because I recently completed a really cool project. I installed Apple Carplay/Android Auto unit. It really made a 2007 Acura RDX feel like a 2023 model.. Please check out my thread here: https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-rdx-.../#post16919943
09-30-2019, 11:47 PM
, so I decided to get under the RDX and took another look. To my surprise, I was able to find the source of the problem rather quickly.
