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Well today i changed the following items:
-transfer case fluid (80w-90 valovine hypoid gear oil), the old fluid looked pretty good which inferred the previous owner kept up with maintenance
-differential fluid, looks like someone used straight ATF previously. The fluid looked brand new but i changed it to the acura recommended AWD fluid
-oil filter, from a noname brand to a honda filter
-oil (royal purple found on sale)
-power steering pump (bearing appears to have gone out on my old one) with the new orings for the piping. This eliminated 90% of the idle noise in the car. My partner was very happy.
-accessories (winter tire swap, new wipers, upgrade high beams to leds)
Driver side front hub/bearing.
inner/outer tie rods & alignment. < These and hub caused shake/vibration between 40-60mph while acceleration and during braking at any speed.
Drilled and slotted front rotors & ceramic pads. < The previous problem caused the driver side to warp.
power steering pump. < started screaming at me when it got cold outside.
Driver side front hub/bearing.
inner/outer tie rods & alignment. < These and hub caused shake/vibration between 40-60mph while acceleration and during braking at any speed.
Drilled and slotted front rotors & ceramic pads. < The previous problem caused the driver side to warp.
power steering pump. < started screaming at me when it got cold outside.
its a good looking car, do you treat your headlights anually?
its a good looking car, do you treat your headlights anually?
actually, I got the car in April. The headlights were faded bad. Passenger one had condensation issues. I resealed it and did the at home headlight restore on both. I can take pics later of the stuff I used if you need.
Cleaned the maf sensor with some CRC cleaner today. Was more preventative maintenance as opposed to anything else. Planning on servicing the PCV system and cleaning the throttle body. Little bit of blowby on idle however it appears to not burn oil.
Found the workshop service manual for the 07, should be very compatible to the 08 from what i can tell. Looks like i may need to invest in a small shop press in the future as i want to change a bushing out on the passenger side lower control arm. The bushing was quoted at 145 for the part, and i may check some yards to see if i can find a good full control arm for cheaper. Will see how it goes.
Found the workshop service manual for the 07, should be very compatible to the 08 from what i can tell. Looks like i may need to invest in a small shop press in the future as i want to change a bushing out on the passenger side lower control arm. The bushing was quoted at 145 for the part, and i may check some yards to see if i can find a good full control arm for cheaper. Will see how it goes.
Hey check ebay also. Just be selective but most of the prices for a full control arm, are decent. I ended up with moog inner/outer tie rods for 100$ shipped last item I bought. Autozone is cheapest for front bearing/hub assembly 66$. Advanced auto had great price on lower ball joints & sway bar link for front I think I paid 110$.
Hey check ebay also. Just be selective but most of the prices for a full control arm, are decent. I ended up with moog inner/outer tie rods for 100$ shipped last item I bought. Autozone is cheapest for front bearing/hub assembly 66$. Advanced auto had great price on lower ball joints & sway bar link for front I think I paid 110$.
Prices up in Canada seem to be significantly higher unfortunately. May make a trip down to the states to buy a control arm worth it.
"Prices up in Canada seem to be significantly higher unfortunately." Tell me about it! Replaced a broken washer nozzle made out of plastic yesterday - $50 CDN. Be careful cleaning snow at the base of the windshield as I assume this is how it cracked.
"Prices up in Canada seem to be significantly higher unfortunately." Tell me about it! Replaced a broken washer nozzle made out of plastic yesterday - $50 CDN. Be careful cleaning snow at the base of the windshield as I assume this is how it cracked.
Changed the PCV valve, it helped a bit with the turbo fluctuations it seems and the old one was covered in black. I have fairly signficant blowby but no oil leaks and no black/blue smoke in the exhaust. Checked codes exhaustively with an oem level scanner (checks engine, AT, SHAWD, emissions etc) and no codes present. Car runs quiet as a church mouse engine wise.
Considering installing an oil catch can and will use royal purple again for the next oil change to help clean it. New oil filters after each oil change for the next few changes.
Anyone have experience with significant blowby? I come from the volvo community and our gauge of a bad PCV or too much blowby is the inflation of a glove by positioning over the oil cap. My car attempts to suck in the glove somewhat while my partners would send it flying. I tried to scour the forums but have not come to a concrete decision on how bad this blowby is comparatively and steps to mitigate it.
To date the following was done:
cleaned intercooler, noted no oil slick or staining on the fins
changed sparkplugs
changed air filter
cleaned map sensor with maf cleaner
changed PS pump
changed pcv valve
changed idler pulley
changed drive belt
changed starter
new transmission position switch
changed transfer case fluid
changed differential fluid
brake fluid flushed
Last edited by yanga001; 12-02-2022 at 10:03 AM.
Reason: forgot to add items changed
Headlight treatment ???? Huh? My RF is cloudy. Cheers
It was a turtle wax treatment kit. Had light fogging on both lights and it made them look as good as new with only the first step of 3. Did not bother with the other two as per the instructions.
Partner ordered some new winters for a good price. Service rep mentioned that the back driver wheel hub was non oem and a bit loose. I assume he meant the bearing was bad. May go to a scrap yard tomorrow and try to pull a used one as they are fairly cheap. Also curious to see if the Gods are with me as a car just came in and i may be able to snag an intercooler and potentially a turbo.
Was at a scrapyard yesterday and realized my partners front control arms look just like all the other control arms. Safe to say its in good condition as i initially thought the bushing had split and wanted to change it as preventative maintenance. Tried to pull out a wheel bearing and could not get the clearance to loosen the wheel bearing nuts. The service manual makes it seem like there is tons of space, however i could not get the tool in. If i can find an easy way to do it then i would do the rear hubs myself.
I took off the whole exhaust today, from turbo back. I'll take pictures in a few days it's bad weather here this time of year. I had an exhaust leak that just started and turned big in like 2 days. I'm gonna be installing a full custome made turbo back exhaust.
I made a custom downpipe, installed it today. Didn't get pictures though because I was under the rdx while it was rain/snowing. To remove the converter I took it out through the top after removing the intercooler. I had to cut the flange off the converter so I could twist and wiggle it out. I used the flange and welded it to the new down pipe. Installing the downpipe took 2 hrs because the vband clamp was a pain but then it was all set.
Been a while however, last saturday the alternator decided to pack up while my partner was driving it. Had a junkyard spare i picked up and had forgotten about which came in handy. When the alternator died it had an electrical smell and carried a resistance indicating a short within the device. It drained a battery down to 0.5. After changing the alternator the car seems to be a bit smoother and shift better. My theory is that wonky voltages may affect loading when the transmission solenoids activate or some other aspect of the vehicle. When time permits i will tear down the alternator and see if its rebuildable.
There was a big snow storm afterwhich the car wobbled significantly at 80km/h +. Having driven it the day before i was surprised as the tires are new, all balance weights are present, and the suspension didnt seem to have any issues. The thought right now is that ice buildup is acting as offset weights within the rim. Will wait and see if it fixes it.
Rebuilt the trunk electronic switch by removing it, cleaning the contacts, and putting it back together. It was surprisingly easy and restored functionality of the trunk. Alternator took about 45 minutes to change, trunk diagnostic about 1.5 hours and the rebuild plus reinstall another hour.
Looking back i have replaced a good number of external parts on this 300k km car (alternator, power steering, starter, PCV valve) however the engine and turbo feel good and it tracks straight. The rust proof put on the car seems to be slowing further rust accumulation and i may do a bi yearly application to get the 4-5 years out of the vehicle. Interior is still perfect which is what matters to my partner.
Replaced the starter brush holder to fix the intermittent no-start problem.
Also installed metal hose/worm clamps on the catalytic converter heat shield to fix the low speed rattles.
Changed transmission fluid through a drain and fill procedure which restored the cars power and oddly enough fixed the boost gauge which previously oscillated up and down. The oem fluid is pink, so a dark red colour is most likely burned fluid. Will do drain and fills during the next few oil changes to help clear out all the old fluid. Out in canuk land a 1L bottle runs 17 cad.
Picked up a gasket for the BPV and cabin air filter for my partners car. Recent checks found all was well although she said it had a slight rough shift sometimes intraffic. Hoping the next oil change drain and fill will help reduce this issue.
Identified an exhaust leak at the rear most coupling. May try to get a pic n pull exhaust in the near future.
I had an exhaust leak there too! This was two years ago and i remember it happened suddenly when I was on a gravel road and then bam the car was loud and I heard the metals clanging. Maybe yours wasnt this bad😂 this was another $200 at a exhaust shop to clean up and seal
Disassembled both front KYB quick strut assemblies and swapped in original top mounts, bearings and springs; reassembled with the KYB bellows and struts.
The KYB assemblies have been in use since June this year. They are exact fit and have good firm ride. I do like them except one issue that they make Boing noises every morning when your first turn the wheels; then the noise is gone for the rest of the day. Once disassembled and without spring pressure, the KYB bearing seems very tight on the top mount and is hard to even turn by hand; maybe some lube can help.
However, after installing the reassembled units, the boing noise is gone and so does the slight pull to left. Very happy.
Last edited by hhrdx08; 10-04-2023 at 08:04 PM.
Reason: typo on title
Flushed some metallic power steering fluid out and the steering is much better. Added a neodynium magnet to the reservoir on a long deck screw to absorb any remaining metallic bits. Hoping this keeps it clean in the long term. Flushed with a electric wrench on the pump with the serpentine belt off. Cleaned it out good.
Cleaned the maf sensor with maf cleaner and the MPG has improved
Cleaned the brakes with a brake clean bath and it fixed/mitigated a scraping sound i used to get.
Lubricated the HVAC door actuator and the brake pedal.
Car should be ready for when my partner gets back.
Yesterday i checked my partners car and noted the rear drivers backing plate is gone and the caliper has seized up. All of the other pads had a good amount of material left. Ordered a raysbestos caliper and wagner oex pads for the rear. Will grease with sil-glyde and maybe flush the brake fluid.
changed the brake calipers and bled the brakes. Broke a front bleeder pin in the closed position but that will be a problem for a later day. The mitivac 6830 worked brilliantly for bleeding. Just leave it sucking and trust the air is out. My partners car brakes a lot stronger now.
I am getting some noise from the front two brakes which i suspect are the shims. Might fix it when the weather gets warmer.
partners acura steering is intermittently stiff and smooth. Checked the fluid and its very dark, and there are some shavings on the magnet i left in the reservoir. Will do a full flush today. maybe order a power steering filter, and research how to do a rack replacement if needed.
changed the power steering pump and all is well for now. I think the old pump ran dry when installed and slowly disintegrated over time. I put a junk yard pump and assist is back with no indications of rack damage. Purchased a power steering filter (magnifine one with interior pleats and the magnet) to deal with the rubber breakdown and any materials still left in the system. Did a 3L flush with my electric rachet and all is well.
A word to anyone who sees this. We diagnosed a dead pump as we looked in the reservoir and saw no fluid movement when all levels were correct. We also spun it out of the car with some fluid in it and the fluid moved very slowly. We did the same with a charged working pump and it would shoot fluid out of the high pressure side of the pump. Hopefully saved some $$$ so my partner can keep driving this car for a while longer.
Grandson came by yesterday to replace LF LCA and compliance bushing on the WDP 08 TL. Was so pooped and sore I forgot to take a pic of the disintegrating bushing before tossing the LCA in the steel recycling bin.
11-11-2022, 07:09 AM
Waited 2 months for it as it was backordered. At least the wiper inserts were only $7 each.
