[QUOTE=Malkawi;16981127]In this graph from your car the boost pressure rise time looks slow as compared to the live data I collected on my car. From the start of the throttle increase to peak boost pressure the time looks to be just under 4 seconds, which is about 1 second longer that what I recorded. There could be other factors for this but if the drive cycle is similar it should be decent comparison. It does look like you started from higher throttle starting point so this may be one of the differences. If you look at the other graphs from your car though the boost rise time if faster.
It's a slow rise time that I believe sets the P2263 code so I wanted to highlight this particular graph. Do you recall the starting speed you were going when increase the throttle for this graph?

Edit- The other difference about your live data is the wastegate solenoid control voltage went to high on duty cycle before throttle release, meaning the wastegate closed to help keep the boost pressure higher. .






Here's the live data from my car. Between each vertical line is 0.2 secs so 1 sec for every 5 sections. For the drive cycle I started the throttle increase to about 50% throttle at about 25mph and above 1500 rpms for about 5 seconds. From the start of the throttle increase until peak boost pressure is about 2.9 seconds.

 

[QUOTE=Malkawi;16981127]Here are the differences I'm seeing between the live data you collected and compared to the live data from my car. I'm not sure what's causing these differences but will continue to think about the results and I may have suggestions later. The rise time of the boost level looks good in most of the graphs but slow in a couple of them, I think the highway ones, which I don't have any data from my car to compare with.

 

[QUOTE=Malkawi;16981127]Hi Malkawi,
After looking through the live data again I think the best thing to do now is to check the boost control and wastegate actuators movement with low psi compressed air. Hopefully your brother is still willing to help you out, it basically removing the innercooler to get back to the wastegate and boost control small hoses, pulling off one hose per solenoid and applying the low psi air (20-30 psi) and observing the movement of the actuator linkage. I've attached a short video of the testing I did on the boost actuator after eye bolt and pin replacement. It's not difficult getting to the actuator hose (canister hose) for the boost control but it looks a more difficult to get at the wastegate hose. I'll post some photos of the solenoids and hoses. Do you think your brother can help you this? Apply the air pressure and watch for free and full movement and also check for play at the pivot points in the linkage. From the graph live data, the wastegate looks suspect to me, it looks like the wastegate may be sticking based on the voltages and the boost pressure doesn't seem to respond quickly to the wastegate opening.

Take a look at the video in the link for the boost control linkage movement. I didn't check the wastegate in my car so no video for this actuator.

Boost actuator test
https://app.box.com/s/oowkyci9fysgqkgn4yomic2nrcfnjrhx

 

[QUOTE=Malkawi;16981127]HI Malkawi, sorry for all the posts but as I think about the problem new things come to mind and I want to recommend something that can be done that doesn't take much time or require a lot of labor. With the live data nothing appears to be way out of line so small changes may help get rid of the P2263 code or help with the troubleshooting. He's something to try first, even before checking the actuators. First and I've mentioned this before so you may have already done this, swap the MAP sensor in the innercooler with the MAP sensor on the top of the intake manifold just right of the throttle body. Identical parts but swapping them may provide a little difference in the boost reading and make the problem better or worse but the main thing is to eliminate the sensor as a potential problem. Easy to remove, inspect and clean if neccessary. Clean the MAF sensor using MAF cleaner only, replace the air filter if dirty and check the inlet plumbing, especially the flex hose up top, look for cracks all around. Check the innercooler rubber couplings and clamps, especially the rear one using an inspection mirror to see if the clamp is placed correctly on the bottom area of the hose. All this can be done is a relatively short amount of time. Clear the code and see if comes back and if does is there any difference how fast it comes back.

MAP sensor locations