Code P2263 and Code P0842 2011 Acura RDX
 

Hello all, first since I bought the car almost a year ago, code 2263 has been persistent , I read some answers about it and followed one Answer which was to replace a small part on the turbo actuator which looks like a ring that a rod goes into and apparently it goes loose with time, that did not solve the problem…turbo seems boosting and spooling good and as I heard turbos on this car dont usually go bad. Replaced few sensors but still no result, after taking it to a prof. Mechanic and after careful diagnosis he told me that there are 2 sensors on the back of the intake which are bad, replaced them and still same code, a friend of mine who is a mechanic said that the vacuum pump could be making this code pop up, is this a valid possibility??
question 2. Today Transmission code on P0842 and of course all the indications on the cluster came and flashing D as well…can someone help me with these questions please. Thanks

I don't have much to contribute other than the section of the service manual that details your P0842 transmission DTC. Good luck.

much appreciated, thanks

The P2263 code can be difficult to diagnose if it's not a worn eye bolt or the pin the eye bolt pivots on. If the pin is also badly worn just replacing the eye bolt may not solve the problem. It sounds like you have replaced the eye bolt, is this correct? If it was replaced did the code come back right away or were there any changes in how fast the code came back and is it still persistent?
The P0842 code is associated with the 2nd clutch pressure sensor. This sensor is in the back of the transmission underneath the air bypass pipe, this is the smaller plastic pipe going from the main intake pipe to the by-pass control valve in front of the innercooler. I've only read about these pressure sensor and that they can go bad and people of replaced them but I have no other experience with them, I think there are three of the them.

I couldn't edit my previous post and I wanted to include a couple of photos to show the location of the pressure sensor associated with the P0842 code, 2nd clutch. This is according to the service manual I have and it states to get access to this sensor you have to remove the air by-pass pipe from the main intake tube and up near the by-pass control valve in front of the innercooler. This sensor is at the rear, top of the transmission.


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Thanks DCS, yes it has 3 pressure sensors , it looks like 2 are similar (1 for the 2nd clutch and 1 for the 4th) which are located across from each other, and the 1 for the 3rd clutch is on the front, also it seems like they have different PSI threshholds. Do you know if I should replace all 3, or just the bad one? Also while searching for the part I noticed that they sell 2 in a package which are 1 for 3rd clutch and 1 for either the 2nd or 4th clutch sensor, what do you recommend?
As for the P2263, yes I replaced the Eye Bolt only, but when I took the car to a proper mechanic he did complete diagnoses using his computer and also checked for vacuum leaks and told me that only 2 sensors need to be replaced which are the turbo waste gate control solenoids. The code comes on after reseting the computer, it kicks in after like 20 miles. I asked if anyone knows about the vacuum pump if its related to P2263 because we disconnected it and drove for like 70 miles and code did not come on.?

I don't know about the condition of the transmission fluid but some suggest doing a 3x change/refill first and if problems remains then change the pressure switch. I would just change the 2nd clutch one and go from there. Part number 28600-R36-004, same for 2nd and 4th from what I've read.
For the P2263 I would verify how worn the pin is before anything else. Look for a gap between the eyebolt and pin, use a good light. There are three solenoid control valves that can affect boost control, boost variable flow solenoid valve, which controls the exhaust flow direction flap and uses the eyebolt and pin linkage, the wastegate control solenoid valve that regulates max boost pressure and the by-pass control solenoid valve. There's all the associated tubing and wiring with the solenoid control valves in addition to all the intake and charged air plumbing that can affect boost control. There are so many things that can cause a slow or uncontrolled rise in boost pressure and the resulting P2263 code. I always push for live data to help with the diagnosis so you're not just replacing parts.
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great info, thank you so much, I will check on the PIN you mentioned, and I ordered the parts for the transmission, lets see what will happen after installing. As for the Trans. oil, its reddish in color and full…so I am assuming oil is good, but will take your advice on replacing it after consulting the mechanic who will do the job. Thanks and please if you encounter extra helpful info let me know.

P0842 transmission fluid pressure Switch A (2nd clutch) Circuit Short or Stuck ON)

2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement — 2009 Acura RDX L4-2.3L Turbo Service Manual | Operation CHARM


Even if the eye bolt has been replaced, check for a noticeable gap between the pin and eyebolt due to a worn pin.
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Pin and eye bolt wear areas. Pin wears in lower area.

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When my car started with the P2263 code there was about a 4mm total gap between the pin and eye bolt, about 2mm of wear on both the eyebolt and pin.
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Thank you again for sharing, the pin and the eye bolt are tight as far as I remember, it was not easy installing the eye bolt on the pin, but the way we did it was while everything was on the car, we did not take apart the turbo or the waste gate. But again while trying to install the eye bolt we had to use a flat head to snug it in because barely any room for two hands . I will check again and see if there is any play. I wondered also about the tightening nut , i know it tightens counterclock wise but what are is the correct gap between the nut and the end of the eye bolt and the connecting waste gate rod? Do you happen to know ? And if keeping a gap between the nut and the rod will increase or decrease boost? Thanks DCS

I've never found any spec for the actuator adjustment. As the coupling nut is screwed down on the eyebolt threads it creates a spring preload to hold the internal exhaust flap closed during low rpms by pulling up on the linkage, which increases exhaust flow velocity to spool the turbo better at the rpms. If the spring preload isn't enough I suppose the exhaust pressure could push open the flap and keep the turbo from spooling better at low rpms, which might generate the P2263. I do know when the coupling nut is screwed down to where it's covering most of the threads on the eyebolt the preload is considerable, the spring in the actuator canister provides a stout closing force for the flap, which pulls up on the linkage. If you try to press down on the eye bolt/pin linkage arm it should take a very firm pushing force to get it to move.

For what it's worth, trans flush is super easy on the RDX. Nearly as easy as an oil change. Definitely worth doing this before replacing sensors.

If you're not comfortable taking off the front left wheel to access the fill plug, you can even fill it thru the dipstick hole if you have a long funnel with a very small tip.

what you explained is geat and worth alot to me, I appreciate the time you dedicated as well. I have learned alot. thank you so much. I will update here when I finish with the car.

Here is an update,got the transmission pressure sensor clutch 2 replaced and that took care of P0842. still messing around with P2263, now it either I buy a whole new turbo, or just replace the turbo boost actuator and wastegate actuator. If I want to buy a turbo, any recommendations whether aftermarket or OEM used or new?

The discussion at the end of the thread below shows a site you can get a new OEM turbo for a fraction of what the dealer charges.
Just make sure you research the part number for your model RDX and cross reference to that site for availability before pulling the trigger.
2010 RDX: Fix it or sell it? - AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community

NEW Mitsubishi TD04HL Turbo Honda Acura 49389-01043
Good Luck.

Good news repairing the P0842 problem, what is difficult to replace this pressure sensor, it's in a tough spot.
Before you buy a new turbo is there anyway you can get live data like in post #8? I hate to see you buy a new costly turbo and do it yourself or pay for all the labor to install it when it likely doesn't need a new turbo. Are you willing to do some work to help verify if the turbo is actually bad such as pulling the innercooler and using low pressure air to test and video the boost control actuator operation, or swapping MAP sensors between the innercooler and intake manifold?

If you want to try something for free, you can adjust the turbo eye bolt. There is a decent chance that when you installed it, you put it in too loose.

Your RDX expects to see an instant change when the turbo is engaged. If there is any slack in the eyebolt you will get the code.

You can reach the nut that holds it in without any tools. You just have to remember to turn it the opposite way to tighten or loosen it.

Tighten it a couple of turns and see if the code goes away. It won't cost you anything and you might just "Win."

Looking down at the nut, that would be clockwise, correct?

Believe it or not, there is a video for that

Since you don't want to take the ring off, you can try adjusting the LARGE/LONG nut to shorten the distance

I took my mine to mechanic today for p2263 code i have 2007 rdx 127k miles and the part that was bad was the turbo wastegate vacuum i just ordered hopefully this does the trick.we tested it and it along with everything else had no movement couldn't even move it
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Hello, sorry about replying late. thanks for your feedback. The 2nd clutch solenoid was a pain in the butt to replace it especially without taking everything a part. but it got replaced. Just to clarify I am not a mechanic, I can do somethings on my own but I have a friend who is a mechanic but what you call street mechanic meaning no shop or proper diagnosing tools like computer, he only has a small yellow diagnostic tool from autozone that reads and clears dtcs only. but he has a great mind in solving issues and doing mechanical work. as for the turbo issue, as I explained before, I took the car a while ago to a specialized mechanic and told me to replace 2 solenoids in the back and i did, but the code did not go away. now playing with the nut like you mentioned can be a viable solution. I will try to do that, as I know it needs a 10mm wrench only. but again the idea of just replacing the turbo with brand new parts sounds very good to me now because of the time spent on the car and money spent trying to fix it. i found aftermarket turbos matching the original turbo for around $300 on either Ebay or Amazon. and also we found out that the turbo can be removed from the top and no need to bring the whole engine out with the gear. apparently the chances of the turbo it-self being bad is minimal. but its either the boost actuator or wastegate actuator, or both, plus the eye-bolt piece that connects to the arm. and that piece where the eye-bolt fits it is not replaceable if its worn out and needs to be drilled to get it out. it is not even sold separately .. so really now I am just checking what is the best route of action.

Before buying a $300 turbo (bad idea) and going through all the work of removing and installing a turbo find someone that can capture the live data I posted in post #8. The live data will help find out what's going with the current turbo and may avoid replacing the turbo.

The link below is a good price and the real cost of a quality turbo. There's just too much labor involved to replace the turbo with a $300 POS turbo. There are some decent remanufactured ones out there for about $1200.
This is a new OEM turbo
NEW Mitsubishi TD04HL Turbo Honda Acura 49389-01043

I agree with you, but finding someone to be able to do the live data is not that easy, my mechanic will replace the turbo for free, but it is not what really worries me, what really worries me is actually finding out my turbo is working properly which is exactly what you are referring to. I will keep you posted.

What mechanic would replace a turbo in an RDX for free when it's most to a full day of time and a ton of labor to do so?

I know it is crazy, but he is my brother and my very close friend. many times he does work on my cars for free just to help me out, and sometimes he charges me for labor but of course not what he charges others. but in general he is fair in his labor prices for others, like the other day he did a full brake job on 2021 camry for only $150(R&R Front and Rear) only labor, parts were $310 from autozone Duralast Gold rotors lifetime and duralast gold brake pads

What a great brother! Does he know how much work it is to replace a turbo in a 1st gen RDX? Before asking him to replace your turbo ask him to collect live data like I've shown in post #8. Does he have a decent scanner to record live data? Show him what I've posted and see what he says.

See that is the problem with him as he is an old school type of Mechanic, meaning does not have a professional scanner nor he knows how to record live data even if a scanner does exist, and even if I was able to get him a reading he wont be able to read it. But if I give him a code he knows that he can use google to figure the code out and start diagnosing from there but nothing too fancy like the P2263 :) . I feel bad talking behind his back. he is very good. As for the labor time replacing the turbo he knows it will be a pain in the Butt and might take more than a day with him but he is up for it.....he does not have a garage , he has his tools and Jack in the trunk of his 2000 camry and he either comes to my house or I meet him somewhere. I just purchased a scanner Autel Maxicom808s, I know it has live data in it but I am not sure if it can do similar graph like the one you sent me. If you know anything about it and how can I get do it by myself I will do it and share it with you

The Autel Maxicom 808 will be able to collect/record the live data like what I did with my Foxwell NT710. You just have to select the same parameters, throttle position, boost pressure, boost control and wastegate solenoid control voltages. The drive cycle for recoding the live data is you drive at steady slow speed at about 1500 rpm and you press on the gas pedal to open the throttle at least 50% and hold for 2 seconds or more, repeat cycle several times. This is the drive cycle Acura describes in the service manual to confirm if the repair for the P2263 has been done successfully. I'd really like to see this type of live data from a car that is generating the P2263 code. I think what you'll see is the boost pressure rises too slowly or just doesn't reach the expected boost level after a throttle increase. It's not easy to diagnose the P2263 code problem but the live data will be very helpful to see what's going on and if any repair fixes the problem.
From what I've read about the P2263 code is caused most often by a worn eye bolt and pin, which I believe slows the boost rise time, and other less likely causes are a sticking open wastegate, which i think limits boost pressure and I've also read a dirty boost pressure sensor (mounted in the innercooler) can cause the code.

[QUOTE=DCS;16980131]The Autel Maxicom 808 will be able to collect/record the live data like what I did with my Foxwell NT710. You just have to select the same parameters, throttle position, boost pressure, boost control and wastegate solenoid control voltages. The drive cycle for recoding the live data is you drive at steady slow speed at about 1500 rpm and you press on the gas pedal to open the throttle at least 50% and hold for 2 seconds or more, repeat cycle several times. This is the drive cycle Acura describes in the service manual to confirm if the repair for the P2263 has been done successfully. I'd really like to see this type of live data from a car that is generating the P2263 code. I think what you'll see is the boost pressure rises too slowly or just doesn't reach the expected boost level after a throttle increase. It's not easy to diagnose the P2263 code problem but the live data will be very helpful to see what's going on and if any repair fixes the problem.
From what I've read about the P2263 code is caused most often by a worn eye bolt and pin, which I believe slows the boost rise time, and other less likely causes are a sticking open wastegate, which i think limits boost pressure and I've also read a dirty boost pressure sensor (mounted in the innercooler) can cause the code.[
/QUOTE] I will try to establish the same procedure and see what results I get. As for the sensor by the intercooler its already been replaced. Also there are 3 solenoids that have been replaced. 1 solenoid infront and 2 in the back. Let me see what I can do and will let you know.

[QUOTE=Malkawi;16980133]Good to know what's been replaced it's helps narrow down what else may be causing the problem. This is also why the live data is so useful, it shows what the boost pressure is doing and the relationship with the solenoid voltages relative to the throttle position. How does the car perform, does it seem to boost and accelerate okay?

[QUOTE=DCS;16980135]That's the other thing, it feels it boost ok and accelerates very well and its pretty fast getting from standstill, the boost gauge also works and I hear the turbo spooling and when I release the pedal it whistles but not too much. but from time to time at low RPM in 3rd gear if I try to accelerate slowly meaning giving it little gas it hesitates but only for a bit. no flashing check engine line. tune-up was also done not too long ago.

[QUOTE=Malkawi;16980139]This is what make diagnosing the P2263 code challenging, the boost can seem fine but whatever test they're doing is sensitive enough to detect a turbo performance problem. The description of the code says the boost rise time is too slow after a throttle increase, it's expecting a certain boost pressure level in a certain amount of time and the turbo is not meeting the expecting level. Just about everything in the turbo system can contribute to the problem from a dirty engine air filter to air leaks to a sticking wastegate and everything in between. It can be the turbo or any of the support hardware/sensors/solenoids and hoses controlling the turbo so it's important to try and track down the cause because you can through all the expense and labor of replacing the turbo and still have the problem.

[QUOTE=DCS;16980171]Perhaps OP has a boost leak somewhere in the system? Worth checking all of the vacuum/pressure lines. Up here in new england they dry rot after awhile so I regularly wipe them down with blaster silocone spray and replace them as needed. I recently replaced the boost reference lines for this reason.

[QUOTE=DCS;16980171]DCS , How are you, here is what I was able to collect, in the pictures I hope you can view them nicely and able to get the info needed, I did few runs on local street and then in the highway, also there is a video while recording on the local street for the first 2 runs but I was not able to upload it because the file format is not supported. if you can give me your email, or hpone number I can probably email it to you or send it to you via text msg.https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...e8f66f72f1.jpg
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[QUOTE=Malkawi;16981095]Thanks for the live data graphs, I'm looking at them now and comparing to the ones I have. I see some differences but nothing drastically different so am going to look at them closer. Right now it looks like the boost pressure is reaching the same max level before being controlled by the boost and wastegate solenoids and actuators. The voltage levels and shapes of the boost and wastegate voltages do look different and the boost level seems to taper off faster but not sure if that's due to a higher engine speed or some other variable. Going to look at the live data some more and see if I can provide some more details.
I like the scanner live data output graph better than with my scanner, which scanner tool are you using?

Without knowing anything about how these graphs are supposed to look... the very brief cuts in wastetage solenoid voltage look off. On graph #s 3, 4, and 6, you can see the voltage briefly dip to zero when you're attempting to re-build boost after letting it drop for a bit.

My experience with some recent electrical issues is that even temporary, intermittent cutouts in sensor data will cause codes.

[QUOTE=DCS;16981116]Thank you for taking the time to read all this, I hope you can be able to find something, as mentioned I also have a video but Acurazine does not accept files .mp4 to be uploaded. if you like I can send it to your email or through a msg. the scanner I am using is the Autel MaxiCom MK808S

[QUOTE=Malkawi;16981127]This graph is the one that stands out the most. The wastegate control voltage duty-cycle goes to 0 for about 1.5 seconds. This is full open for the wastegate so seems a little extreme since the boost level is coming down as expected. Not sure what's going on here. The max boost level reached is near 18psi and a little higher max boost than the other graphs but it looks like it's being controlled lower okay. You're not seeing over boost codes so the wastegate is not stuck closed but it might be sticking some and slow to react. I'll be looking at the other graphs too and see what else might be unusual or unexpected results.

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[QUOTE=DCS;16981129]I believe this is the graph when I took it on the highway. that's why you see all the data going up and down

[QUOTE=Malkawi;16981133]The good thing is that the boost level reaching is reaching the max limit pressure under highway conditions so a lot of things are in good shape with the turbo system but something more subtle is going on that generates the P2263 code.