2010 RDX Axle Replacement
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
2010 RDX Axle Replacement
Does anyone have the Acura service instructions on replacing the front axles on a 2010 RDX. Both mine need to be replaced
#2
Hey buddy,
Replacing axles is pretty straight forward. Pull the wheel off you're working on, loosin the giant axle nut (its either a 32 mm or 36 mm, I honestly can't remember off the top of my head). From here you can go one of two ways:
(1) take the three lower ball joint bolts off from the bottom, this will allow some flex in the knuckle/strut to get the axle out of the hub. -or-
(2) my preference when doing anything axle related is to take the two bolts out that hold the knuckle to the strut. This allows a lot more movement to get the axle out. Be cautious and take the wheel speed sensor out as well, as doing it this way people forget about it,stretch it,and end up spending money they didn't need to.
The driver axle will pop right out of the transmission, likely with a lil pry bar action. It shouldn't take much, but don't be afraid to put some oomph on it if you don't have a long bar. The passenger front is actually slid on to another shaft that then goes into the tranny. This one you want to separate at the bracket, it's a relatively short shaft.
After that, put things back together making sure the spines are all lined up, You can use the axle as a hammer on itself to pop it into place. Axle nut torque is 242 lb/ft. It's difficult as hell to hit this torque, and I personally place a thick punch into the vanes of the rotor and rest it on the caliper bracket to keep it from simply rotating while you're trying to tighten.
Good luck!
-Shane
Replacing axles is pretty straight forward. Pull the wheel off you're working on, loosin the giant axle nut (its either a 32 mm or 36 mm, I honestly can't remember off the top of my head). From here you can go one of two ways:
(1) take the three lower ball joint bolts off from the bottom, this will allow some flex in the knuckle/strut to get the axle out of the hub. -or-
(2) my preference when doing anything axle related is to take the two bolts out that hold the knuckle to the strut. This allows a lot more movement to get the axle out. Be cautious and take the wheel speed sensor out as well, as doing it this way people forget about it,stretch it,and end up spending money they didn't need to.
The driver axle will pop right out of the transmission, likely with a lil pry bar action. It shouldn't take much, but don't be afraid to put some oomph on it if you don't have a long bar. The passenger front is actually slid on to another shaft that then goes into the tranny. This one you want to separate at the bracket, it's a relatively short shaft.
After that, put things back together making sure the spines are all lined up, You can use the axle as a hammer on itself to pop it into place. Axle nut torque is 242 lb/ft. It's difficult as hell to hit this torque, and I personally place a thick punch into the vanes of the rotor and rest it on the caliper bracket to keep it from simply rotating while you're trying to tighten.
Good luck!
-Shane
The following 2 users liked this post by WellHellWtvr215:
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#3
So, I'm about to put the 5th set of front axles on my 2010 RDX.
Our of curiosity, does anyone know where I can get the set ring for the half stub female side or does nobody replace them? The part is: 44319-S1K-300 (I think) or 44319-SD4-010
Thanks
J
Our of curiosity, does anyone know where I can get the set ring for the half stub female side or does nobody replace them? The part is: 44319-S1K-300 (I think) or 44319-SD4-010
Thanks
J
Last edited by udelslayer; 04-03-2020 at 02:46 PM.
#4
Just curious, I have a 2011 RDX with a hair under 60k miles on it. Approximately what mileage did you all start experiencing the axle problems? What are the symptoms that you know you need to replace them. Did you go with OEM or another brand? Last comment on the 242 lb torque, no way I could hit that without ending up in the hospital with a hernia. Also, I find it funny that the torque is 242. Not 240, not 245, but 242. Man, someone is really specific on the design. I don't have any symptoms, actually the car has been great except for the common issues of the center console leatherette wrinkling, headlight condensation, and the most annoying one of all, the passenger sun visor breaking. Great car.
#5
Talking out loud here - I wonder why it seems those with axle issues seem to have repeat problems, while others have none. Is it possible there is some other underlying issue that is causing premature wear on the CV joints on some cars? No one should have 5 failed axles, period.
The following users liked this post:
mass978 (09-24-2024)
#6
Just curious, I have a 2011 RDX with a hair under 60k miles on it. Approximately what mileage did you all start experiencing the axle problems? What are the symptoms that you know you need to replace them. Did you go with OEM or another brand? Last comment on the 242 lb torque, no way I could hit that without ending up in the hospital with a hernia. Also, I find it funny that the torque is 242. Not 240, not 245, but 242. Man, someone is really specific on the design. I don't have any symptoms, actually the car has been great except for the common issues of the center console leatherette wrinkling, headlight condensation, and the most annoying one of all, the passenger sun visor breaking. Great car.
im at about 140k right now and I’m experiencing the shakes up front.
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#8
Instructor
Hey everyone, I’m experiencing the vibration, especially while accelerating around 55mph. Shop said front driver side CV joints. $307 replace & align.
Car has 135k miles on it.
I am wondering now should i replace the struts while they got it apart?
Car has 135k miles on it.
I am wondering now should i replace the struts while they got it apart?
#9
At that mileage it wouldn't be a bad idea. The car rides stiff so you may not notice worn struts so much, but you'll definitely take note once new ones are in there. I replaced all 4 corners at just over 150k and it was night and day. The strut mounts in particular were very worn out.
#10
Instructor
but my focus is that stupid vibration. It would start around 45 getting on the highway then subside around 65-70. Now the vibration comes on around 65 and gradually gets worse faster u go. I haven’t extensively tested it out on the highway and in other situations. Any ideas/thoughts?
oh cost to replace both front axles was $515
#11
ok yeah I replaced the struts. And had to replace the sway bar links, as the bolts were so rusted we had to cut them to get them off. Can’t say I notice a difference in ride quality.
but my focus is that stupid vibration. It would start around 45 getting on the highway then subside around 65-70. Now the vibration comes on around 65 and gradually gets worse faster u go. I haven’t extensively tested it out on the highway and in other situations. Any ideas/thoughts?
oh cost to replace both front axles was $515
but my focus is that stupid vibration. It would start around 45 getting on the highway then subside around 65-70. Now the vibration comes on around 65 and gradually gets worse faster u go. I haven’t extensively tested it out on the highway and in other situations. Any ideas/thoughts?
oh cost to replace both front axles was $515
#12
Instructor
My one friend suggested tie rods, ball joints or even the control arm bushings. Could it be the main drive shaft or one of the rear ones?
#13
yeah that was my original hope when I took it in, bad tire balance. But the place said the tires balanced fine. They use a pretty advanced machine to balance tires. It’s like the same thing nascar used to balance their tires. Then they put them on the car and test their balance to see if they balance While on the car. this is honestly the worst set of michelin tires i have ever owned. Got them from belle tire.
My one friend suggested tie rods, ball joints or even the control arm bushings. Could it be the main drive shaft or one of the rear ones?
My one friend suggested tie rods, ball joints or even the control arm bushings. Could it be the main drive shaft or one of the rear ones?
#14
Advanced
Hey everyone,
My 2011 RDX SH-AWD just started making a loud knocking noise when driving. I've never had the driveshafts changed before and it looks like they're the original. My car has 285km on it and I'm also changing my front struts as well. Does anyone know which axles to get? I see some on rockauto without the ABS Ring. Do I need to purchase that separate? Do I need it? I can't find any documentation on it and the Service Manual doesn't say anything about it either.
My 2011 RDX SH-AWD just started making a loud knocking noise when driving. I've never had the driveshafts changed before and it looks like they're the original. My car has 285km on it and I'm also changing my front struts as well. Does anyone know which axles to get? I see some on rockauto without the ABS Ring. Do I need to purchase that separate? Do I need it? I can't find any documentation on it and the Service Manual doesn't say anything about it either.
#15
Hey everyone,
My 2011 RDX SH-AWD just started making a loud knocking noise when driving. I've never had the driveshafts changed before and it looks like they're the original. My car has 285km on it and I'm also changing my front struts as well. Does anyone know which axles to get? I see some on rockauto without the ABS Ring. Do I need to purchase that separate? Do I need it? I can't find any documentation on it and the Service Manual doesn't say anything about it either.
My 2011 RDX SH-AWD just started making a loud knocking noise when driving. I've never had the driveshafts changed before and it looks like they're the original. My car has 285km on it and I'm also changing my front struts as well. Does anyone know which axles to get? I see some on rockauto without the ABS Ring. Do I need to purchase that separate? Do I need it? I can't find any documentation on it and the Service Manual doesn't say anything about it either.
The following users liked this post:
mass978 (09-24-2024)
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