Suspension Guide
For those who are looking to drop their car. Take a look at the Noob guide to See the different options that are possible for our car.
I've gone through different suspension setup since I had my car, So I wanted to share my experience. I present My Suspension Guide through my experience 1. Stay away from any spring setup!! 2. Aftermarket Springs do not go well with stock suspension. 3. If, looking for a coil sleeve setup
Go with D2, Function and Form 1, Function and Form 2, K sports, Megan (suppose to be good for track), H&R and KW. For those who wonder what camber kits to run. Look no further, a new break through. 1. Run SPC camber ball joint or Ingalls camber ball joint (find +-3 adjustment) ----- FYI: if, lowered more than 2 1/2 inches the nut on top will hit the top of the inner fender. The wheel well to inner fender will require some cutting in order to clear. 2. TAS AUTO Camber Kit ----- Great kit---- Cost 419.00 ( a lot of money) ----------Comes With poly bushing in bolt area-------------------- FYI: if, lowered more than 2 1/2 inches the nut on top will hit the top of the inner fender. The wheel well to inner fender will require some cutting in order to clear. 3. Skunk2 EF & DA Control Arms -------Break through Camber kit------Cost 230.00 Cliff Notes
4. Just run your stock control arms, there is no need for a camber kit. Make sure your toe is at 0. And rotate tires regularly. 5. Rear Washer trick Cost about $10.00 bucks but this is for the back only.... Lastly but most important. After changing your suspension always get an alignment. Buy lifetime alignment it will save you the hassle.... I hope that helps... if, you have any questions post it here.... Please READ!! |
awesome post, my acura is currently in my garage completely torn apart haha i started with brakes and one thing led to another. so ive decided on upgrading to coil overs, but ive been researching for a while and cant seem to settle. im looking to lower it about 1-2 inches, not really slammed but i want something more adequate for the track but without diminishing a good to decent ride. also what kind of camber/ball joints/or even arms should i run? while doing the brakes i came across all my joints and bushings and im going to do energy bushings all around as well, but in terms of camber i dont know so much about what ill need with a good coil over set up. you seem to have enough knowledge on different setups, help a brother out?
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Originally Posted by Cura99
(Post 12562829)
awesome post, my acura is currently in my garage completely torn apart haha i started with brakes and one thing led to another. so ive decided on upgrading to coil overs, but ive been researching for a while and cant seem to settle. im looking to lower it about 1-2 inches, not really slammed but i want something more adequate for the track but without diminishing a good to decent ride. also what kind of camber/ball joints/or even arms should i run? while doing the brakes i came across all my joints and bushings and im going to do energy bushings all around as well, but in terms of camber i dont know so much about what ill need with a good coil over set up. you seem to have enough knowledge on different setups, help a brother out?
For a good track setup people like to run the ground control coil sleeves with Tokico white or kyb agx or koni reds (but must weld the perch to strut). Another option is to run KW or H&R coilover for track, expensive but made for the track. You can try running another full coilovers, like d2, ksports, or function form 2. You don't really need a camber kit if you are not going to be lower that much because if you do the track you will be required to run some camber in order to get a lot of traction. Yes, change all your bushing with energy suspension or prothane bushing. Get the black bushing they tend not to squeak like the red bushing. If you are running track i suggest you getting front and rear strut bars. Sway bars w/ sway bushings. i hope that helps... I hope other people can chime in and give him some info |
d2s are good if you live in places without cold temps (like cali:rolleyes:)...but ive talked to numerous people who have told me their d2s blow as soon as the cold hits (including members on this board)...and with only a one year warranty thats not good. ksports are manfactured by the same company so they have the same problems. if im dropping $800.00 on coils i dont want them blowing on me after a lil temp dip. i was literally a mouse click away from buying d2s until i found this out....the search continues....
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good write up, we need more input from people who have had different suspension setups, especially comparing the different brands of coilovers
got a couple questions/comments on some things you wrote here
Originally Posted by switchfootvz
(Post 12562090)
...[*]Would recommend these for people who run low offset wheels...
because if you are already fully slammed you're probably somewhere around -3 degrees anyways
Originally Posted by switchfootvz
(Post 12562090)
...And rotate tires regularly...
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Originally Posted by mitch14
(Post 12565100)
you mean to run a camber kit in order to get more negative camber? because if you are already fully slammed you're probably somewhere around -3 degrees anyways So, running the skunk 2 arms will eliminate that problem. But I think the reason why it pop out was because i had it pressed out then had a camber ball joint on then went back to oem like ball joints. So through all the pressing and hitting it made the ball joint not snug in the hole. |
Originally Posted by switchfootvz
(Post 12565126)
With my experience running stock control arms with stock ball joint, the ball joint will pop out eventually...
So, running the skunk 2 arms will eliminate that problem. But I think the reason why it pop out was because i had it pressed out then had a camber ball joint on then went back to oem like ball joints. So through all the pressing and hitting it made the ball joint not snug in the hole. Also why did you go back between oem and the other ball joints? |
Originally Posted by switchfootvz
(Post 12562090)
For those who are looking to drop their car. Take a look at the Noob guide to See the different options that are possible for our car.
I've gone through different suspension setup since I had my car, So I wanted to share my experience. I present My Suspension Guide through my experience 1. Stay away from any spring setup!! 2. Aftermarket Springs do not go well with stock suspension. 3. If, looking for a coil sleeve setup
Go with D2, Function and Form 1, Function and Form 2, K sports, Megan (suppose to be good for track), H&R and KW. For those who wonder what camber kits to run. Look no further, a new break through. 1. Run SPC camber ball joint or Ingalls camber ball joint (find +-3 adjustment) ----- FYI: if, lowered more than 2 1/2 inches the nut on top will hit the top of the inner fender. The wheel well to inner fender will require some cutting in order to clear. 2. TAS AUTO Camber Kit ----- Great kit---- Cost 419.00 ( a lot of money) ----------Comes With poly bushing in bolt area-------------------- FYI: if, lowered more than 2 1/2 inches the nut on top will hit the top of the inner fender. The wheel well to inner fender will require some cutting in order to clear. 3. Skunk2 EF & DA Control Arms -------Break through Camber kit------Cost 230.00 Cliff Notes
4. Just run your stock control arms, there is no need for a camber kit. Make sure your toe is at 0. And rotate tires regularly. 5. Rear Washer trick Cost about $10.00 bucks but this is for the back only.... Lastly but most important. After changing your suspension always get an alignment. Buy lifetime alignment it will save you the hassle.... I hope that helps... if, you have any questions post it here.... Please READ!! |
The only LCA's that you can get for our car are the rear LCA's from FFC
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Originally Posted by Cura99
(Post 12571825)
Thanks for the input, but if I'm lowering my car roughly 1.5 inches through a coil over setup, will I need a camber kit? And if so, what will the arms do? And if I do run the arms, do I need to run the camber kit too? I'm curious what the benefits are with the arms if I run a setup with coil overs and I'm about 1.5 inches lower because they look bitchin but I dont know if I'll really benefit. (hope I do -.-)
Also why did you go back between oem and the other ball joints? the reason why i kept going back and forth from different ball joints is because of having clearance from the inner fender. Megan offers a lower control arms for our car. |
Originally Posted by switchfootvz
(Post 12572947)
:what: you seem a bit confused....... If, you are only lowering 1.5 inches. No, need for camber kit. The control arms that i'm talking about is the upper control arms.
the reason why i kept going back and forth from different ball joints is because of having clearance from the inner fender. Megan offers a lower control arms for our car. but it says integra so i didnt know if they were compatible. Ill check into the megans... |
Originally Posted by 97BlackAckCL
(Post 12572078)
The only LCA's that you can get for our car are the rear LCA's from FFC
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Originally Posted by Cura99
(Post 12574106)
well i was confused because you said "Skunk2 EF & DA Control Arm" and these are the DA's- http://www.racinglab.com/skunk2-cont...-0100-001.html
but it says integra so i didnt know if they were compatible. Ill check into the megans... You do not need a camber kit. And you do not need lower control arms. Those lower control arms that you showed for the integra do not work. Upper control arms are the only one that we can use from the DA AND EF Let me make you suspension list small 1. Full coilover or coilover sleeves 2. sway bars. 3. poly bushing That will make you ride super fun for your drive to work. :thumbsup: |
Originally Posted by switchfootvz
(Post 12574704)
Read what i said, Skunk 2 UPPER CONTROL arms are for aggressive setups so don't run it. EF and DA arms are smaller and require modification.
You do not need a camber kit. And you do not need lower control arms. Those lower control arms that you showed for the integra do not work. Upper control arms are the only one that we can use from the DA AND EF Let me make you suspension list small 1. Full coilover or coilover sleeves 2. sway bars. 3. poly bushing That will make you ride super fun for your drive to work. :thumbsup: BUT would you agree if I run a coil over set up that lets me play between 1.5-to even 2.5 or 3 inches then i might as well run those arms when i do decide to go lower? |
Originally Posted by Cura99
(Post 12574110)
good eye
Originally Posted by switchfootvz
(Post 12574704)
Let me make you suspension list small
1. Full coilover or coilover sleeves 2. sway bars. 3. poly bushing That will make you ride super fun for your drive to work. :thumbsup: |
Originally Posted by Cura99
(Post 12574862)
okay, okay i get it, i get it! :P
BUT would you agree if I run a coil over set up that lets me play between 1.5-to even 2.5 or 3 inches then i might as well run those arms when i do decide to go lower? |
Originally Posted by 97BlackAckCL
(Post 12574868)
You don't need them, all you really need is a camber kit, the UCA's are good to run aggressive negative camber
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Originally Posted by 97BlackAckCL
(Post 12574863)
Thanks, I also know because I have them in a box at my house :toocool:
This is a good list |
Originally Posted by Cura99
(Post 12574862)
okay, okay i get it, i get it! :P
BUT would you agree if I run a coil over set up that lets me play between 1.5-to even 2.5 or 3 inches then i might as well run those arms when i do decide to go lower? What is important is your toe.... your toe will make you alignment straight and your tires will wear evenly |
Originally Posted by Cura99
(Post 12574995)
why dont you install them??
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Originally Posted by 97BlackAckCL
(Post 12576935)
They're on the to do list, I just garaged the car for the winter, so I'll get to them sooner or later. Kind of debating on having a shop do them since they have a lift and I don't. FFC also just came out with a matching set of lower toe arms so I might get those first and throw them on together, we'll see.
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Honestly, not much, especially since I already have all polyurethayne bushings, they're mostly for looks. They are a bit thicker than stock, but I don't think that there's much additional benefit other than looking pretty
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Originally Posted by 97BlackAckCL
(Post 12579530)
Honestly, not much, especially since I already have all polyurethayne bushings, they're mostly for looks. They are a bit thicker than stock, but I don't think that there's much additional benefit other than looking pretty
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Bump!
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hello im new to Acurazine but I have a 99cl and I recently purchased some 19x8 RH C2 wheels and I dont want to put them on before I get coilovers. Ive been researching and a lot of people say that ground controls are good but I was wondering how low can you drop the ground control coilovers?
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Originally Posted by switchfootvz
(Post 12562090)
For those who are looking to drop their car. Take a look at the Noob guide to See the different options that are possible for our car.
I've gone through different suspension setup since I had my car, So I wanted to share my experience. I present My Suspension Guide through my experience 1. Stay away from any spring setup!! 2. Aftermarket Springs do not go well with stock suspension. 3. If, looking for a coil sleeve setup
Go with D2, Function and Form 1, Function and Form 2, K sports, Megan (suppose to be good for track), H&R and KW. For those who wonder what camber kits to run. Look no further, a new break through. 1. Run SPC camber ball joint or Ingalls camber ball joint (find +-3 adjustment) ----- FYI: if, lowered more than 2 1/2 inches the nut on top will hit the top of the inner fender. The wheel well to inner fender will require some cutting in order to clear. 2. TAS AUTO Camber Kit ----- Great kit---- Cost 419.00 ( a lot of money) ----------Comes With poly bushing in bolt area-------------------- FYI: if, lowered more than 2 1/2 inches the nut on top will hit the top of the inner fender. The wheel well to inner fender will require some cutting in order to clear. 3. Skunk2 EF & DA Control Arms -------Break through Camber kit------Cost 230.00 Cliff Notes
5. Rear Washer trick Cost about $10.00 bucks but this is for the back only.... Lastly but most important. After changing your suspension always get an alignment. Buy lifetime alignment it will save you the hassle.... I hope that helps... if, you have any questions post it here.... Please READ!! |
Originally Posted by acuraclsittinglow
(Post 12805130)
i just bought my cl got skunk 2 coil overs and kyb shocks i wanna flush it to the rims 215/18r/35 i dont want my tires to eat what should i do
I gave suggestions on what setup to go with. And i told how to save your tires. What wheels do you have? |
Camber kits and toe alignment is the way to go to save tires
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Originally Posted by switchfootvz
(Post 12805204)
wow, i guess you people don't read.
I gave suggestions on what setup to go with. And i told how to save your tires. What wheels do you have? |
Originally Posted by acuraclsittinglow
(Post 12806471)
enkie 18 x 7.5 so i dont need skunk 2 camber if i slam it to the ground 3.5 inch
:ugh::what::whyme::yuck: if you read, your answer will be there |
thxs for all the info!helped alot :D
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Sway bars?
I saw you mentioned sway bars, was just wondering what brands etc you all go for, looking to autox my car |
Originally Posted by Reyn
(Post 16232114)
I saw you mentioned sway bars, was just wondering what brands etc you all go for, looking to autox my car I'd also recommend replacing your suspension bushings with Polyurethane bushings, it makes a world of difference, Energy Suspension makes a great kit |
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