D2 Coilovers: pics and review (56k ouch)
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Somewhere in Denver, CO
Age: 39
Posts: 4,447
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
D2 Coilovers: pics and review (56k ouch)
well, first pics because I know how much you all love them:
lets start off with a before and after of the side
before:
after:
front left angle
before:
after:
wheel well with D2's and rotora slotted brakes (not one of the cleanest):
front and rear wheel gaps now:
and finally ground clearance (not very much, so gotta be careful in dips, but with a slightly stiffer than stock ride there is little change in height over bumps):
these ride great, are of very high quality, and look really good. However I notice little to no change in ride quality when changing between any of the 36 dampener settings. I put it on 1 and drove around the neighborhood for a bit, then set it to 33 and did the same drive and noticed virtually no difference. Perhaps I will try again after they are more broken in. I just got my alignment today and have not had any problems with "clunking noises" when going over bumps like I expected. I am using a balljoint camber kit and dropped about 3". there is almost no wheel gap and I have to put my finger in teh gap at an angle for it to go in, so I imagine that would be considered "tucking".
overall for the $750 I paid for them and the $150 for the camber kit, and the $130 for teh camber install and alignment... well I'm a poor college student, so that's kinda tough to judge the value of these, BUT I absolutely LOVE to drive my car now. I used to get nauseous from all the body roll, and now I've come to expect it, and now that there is none I am consistently surprised.
I have VERY little experience with aftermarket suspension, but I can say this: This is absolutely one of the best ride quality/handling I have ever had. Two thumbs up.
lets start off with a before and after of the side
before:
after:
front left angle
before:
after:
wheel well with D2's and rotora slotted brakes (not one of the cleanest):
front and rear wheel gaps now:
and finally ground clearance (not very much, so gotta be careful in dips, but with a slightly stiffer than stock ride there is little change in height over bumps):
these ride great, are of very high quality, and look really good. However I notice little to no change in ride quality when changing between any of the 36 dampener settings. I put it on 1 and drove around the neighborhood for a bit, then set it to 33 and did the same drive and noticed virtually no difference. Perhaps I will try again after they are more broken in. I just got my alignment today and have not had any problems with "clunking noises" when going over bumps like I expected. I am using a balljoint camber kit and dropped about 3". there is almost no wheel gap and I have to put my finger in teh gap at an angle for it to go in, so I imagine that would be considered "tucking".
overall for the $750 I paid for them and the $150 for the camber kit, and the $130 for teh camber install and alignment... well I'm a poor college student, so that's kinda tough to judge the value of these, BUT I absolutely LOVE to drive my car now. I used to get nauseous from all the body roll, and now I've come to expect it, and now that there is none I am consistently surprised.
I have VERY little experience with aftermarket suspension, but I can say this: This is absolutely one of the best ride quality/handling I have ever had. Two thumbs up.
#3
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Somewhere in Denver, CO
Age: 39
Posts: 4,447
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
yeah, I had a couple more inches to be able to drop it, but as it is, it's pretty low, and I already get some scraping. I didn't want to lose the driveability, so I will probably leave it at that height, plus the pic was taken from the same height as the middle of the rim, so the picture of the rear gap is slightly decieving.
Trending Topics
#8
Senior Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Bay Area, CA
Age: 38
Posts: 12,005
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
8 Posts
another thing you said about how you couldnt tell the difference between the 1 and 33 setting, i think you would need to drive around longer, like a day or so of constant driving over different terrains and bumps to really get a feel for the different settings. I dont think a lap around the block would suffice
#9
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Somewhere in Denver, CO
Age: 39
Posts: 4,447
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
I never said I took a lap around the block, I said I drove around the neighborhood, took about a 10 mile drive, on same terrain w/ both settings, but like I also0 said I am a suspension noob, so I will probably try it again for a day or two on 1 and then a day or two on 35 to see the difference.
#10
7-30-05 First Place STS!
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: chicago
Age: 39
Posts: 474
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
if you look at the shock dynos i posted of these a while ago you can tell that there is very little if any change in the damping characteristics of the shock with each little "click"...that should explain a few things to you
#11
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Somewhere in Denver, CO
Age: 39
Posts: 4,447
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
oh I figured that azian. I just switched them all to 1 and I guess there is a noticeable difference. I had them on 15F / 27R before this and every little tiny bump on the road is noticeable now, if only slightly. I kinda prefer it this way.
with all you saying I should lower it more, how do I shave the inner fender to prevent noise from the upper control arm. I don't have a dremel or anything. Should I get one? are they cheap?
I am also having trouble gaining access to the bolt on the top of the upper control arm to loosen the camber balljoint for adjustment. Can I just cut out the metalic part of the inner fender to make roon for the wrench, or do you guys have any other ideas?
with all you saying I should lower it more, how do I shave the inner fender to prevent noise from the upper control arm. I don't have a dremel or anything. Should I get one? are they cheap?
I am also having trouble gaining access to the bolt on the top of the upper control arm to loosen the camber balljoint for adjustment. Can I just cut out the metalic part of the inner fender to make roon for the wrench, or do you guys have any other ideas?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MrHeeltoe
1G TSX Tires, Wheels, & Suspension
20
02-23-2023 01:54 PM
ITSJESTER
4G TL Audio, Bluetooth, Electronics & Navigation
17
12-06-2018 02:29 AM
MrHeeltoe
2G TSX Tires, Wheels & Suspension
3
09-29-2015 10:43 PM
MrHeeltoe
3G TL Tires, Wheels & Suspension
0
09-28-2015 05:43 PM